Track Cycling: Velodrome Racing and Training Area - HED3 freewheel to track conversion

I want to convert a rear HED3 freewheel for track use.

It is 130mm OLD (road standard) now. I'd like to get it to 120mm OLD (track standard) spacing with the HED track conversion kit that is sold on their website. Would the conversion kit do this or does it stay at 130mm?

In addition, if you have this setup, how does the converted wheel do under resisting and backpedalling?

I don't have any answers to your questions, but have you considered using it on the front, where you'd get a greater aerodynamic advantage?

I already have one for the front. This will be for track use but I wondered how it would hold up to occasional street use.

Not sure if the hub setup is exactly the same for the HEDs as for the old specialized Trispokes, but my trispokes wouldn't be a terribly good idea for the rear on the street-- there's no way to put a lockring on. It's a standard 1.37x24 thread for a freewheel or cog, and to get the chainline right you have to have an adapter that just threads on. Even if the adapter could take a lockring to hold the cog on, it's not set up for any kind of lockring to hold the adapter on. It's fine on the track where you don't backpedal, but could make you really unhappy on the street.

The wheels themselves are pretty tough. They were made for use on track and road racing/crits, though I don't think they're mass start legal on the road anymore for UCI events. I've crashed mine on the track a few times and they're just a little scuffed.

I've actually been wondering virtually the same thing. I picked up a dirt cheap older HED disc, also 130mm road standard. I've been planning on calling HED and asking, but haven't had the money nor the time to race so I haven't bothered.

Let me know if you find anything out.

"overkill"

That's too crazy for me! I'd very curious to see a photo of your work however.

I emailed HED but I have yet to hear back. I will share their response when I do...

its probably a better idea to locktite a cog on there i guess :?

i have a 130mm spaced HED disc for the back.
i didnt want to just locktite a cog on it because:
A. the chainline would be wayy off
B. thats ghetto

so, i designed (on solidworks5) an aluminum piece thats welded onto the hub that has 6 threaded holes. then i designed a steel cog that bolts onto it.
then i just used a grinder to shave 5mm off of each of the spacers so it'd be 120mm (a machine shop could easily do this for you if you dont have the tools).
im using chain tensioners because i have a quick release. perfect :)

i can post pictures of the part later if youd like, im not on my laptop right now

assuming that you have the same chainline as i do, i could send the same parts out to you. but it'd be a 15T cog, i never designed other cogs (no need to, i designed this part for myself and i only wanted a 15T). AND you'd need to take it to a shop to have it welded on. it only costs a few dollars.
just thought i'd make the offer available :)

That's way overkill. All you need is a cylinder that threads onto the existing hub and extends outward with an identical thread (1.37x24) at the correct location for your chainline. Then you can use any standard cog. the downside is that it's only good for the track because it's not lockringable.

hmm, for 100 dollars, and about a half hour of my time it seems worth it.
Plus mine is safe. I can ride it on the street. I can stop.

The screw-on is perfectly fine for track racing- if you're spinning a cog off backward in a track race you already have a much bigger problem. And I wouldn't think of running my racing tires that I use on the tri-spokes on the street anyway-- I'd carry the wheels in a bag if I was riding to/from the track. And there's a lot to be said for compatibility of parts, so you can borrow/lend cogs in a pinch.

Its still inventive and interesting though. Pix or it didn't happen! :)

hmm, for 100 dollars, and about a half hour of my time it seems worth it.
Plus mine is safe. I can ride it on the street. I can stop.

the hed one is $30. The older ones have lockring threading so if you bolt them in place they won't come off. Why the **** would you want to ride on the street with a disk anyway? Plus only having a 15t or having to get another proprietary cog made makes no sense for track racing.

The older ones have lockring threading so if you bolt them in place they won't come off.

must have been some intermediate design. I have some really old specialized tri-spokes that were threaded for a freewheel and there's not a lockring thread. Even if the adapter had one, it wouldn't matter, because you could just spin the adapter off. With mine the cog generally stays tight to the adapter, and the adapter unscrews unless I hold it with a big wrench. I've never used a lockring anyway...

i took down my posts.
see ya guys around

i have an hed superlite disc that I sent to the factory, they trued the wheel for me for like 20 bucks and installed a fresh track axle for another 50. why would you not do that.

and someone said its more aerodynamic up front? ..no...

i have an hed superlite disc that I sent to the factory, they trued the wheel for me for like 20 bucks and installed a fresh track axle for another 50. why would you not do that.

and someone said its more aerodynamic up front? ..no...

Is the track axle 120mm spaced? I emailed HED but I've yet to hear back.

Is the track axle 120mm spaced? I emailed HED but I've yet to hear back.

yea its 120mm spaced, cant think of any other track conversion size? hope no one is sticking it on like a jamie roy. I'm sure they could arrange it to be spaced like any other hub if you need like 110 for example. if you call the phone number one of the people will answer about any question you like, I figured it all out from them in like 5 minutes

its also here: http://www.hedcycling.com/cart/accessories.php

too lazy to read this entire thread.. but ive one it to two heds already..... (convert to track rear) spacing is 120mm you can order the part from HED directly ask for "ANNE" shes very helpful... i think the total cost with shipping is just about 90$ and you can get your local LBS to install the part for you.. works great on the track and iits very solid and sturdy... feels really fast in velo

(fyi) the part loooks vverrrrryyyy similar to the surly fixxer ... i wonder if they just get them to make the conversion part for them...