Road Cycling - patching latex

I have recently switched to latex inner tubes which I think offer a big difference in feel and also reduced spinning weight. So far no punctures but I started thinking, when I do get one how do I patch it? Will my standard repair kit made for butyl also work on latex?

To patch a latex tube make patches from an old latex tube that are fully rounded and just large enough to cover the hole plus five mm. For instance, a thorn hole takes a 10 mm diameter patch. Use Pastali rim glue (tire patch glue also works but not as well) wiped thinly onto the patch with your finger. Place the patch on the tube immediately and press flat. Latex will pass the volatile solvent allowing the glue to cure rapidly with good adhesion to the tube. BUT my understanding is that glueless patches will work on Latex but I have not tried it since I don't do latex. Also most leaks in latex results in a blow out rather than a slow leak as with regular tubes. Also don't forget that with latex you have to air them up every day because they will lose about45% of their air in 24 hours.

I have recently switched to latex inner tubes which I think offer a big difference in feel and also reduced spinning weight. So far no punctures but I started thinking, when I do get one how do I patch it? Will my standard repair kit made for butyl also work on latex?

you feel the difference between tubes?? pressure is pressure how can they be different?

Latex tubes do feel better; they're thinner so they have a slightly more supple ride and less (again, only slightly) rolling resistance...

I have had good luck with a traditional patch kit on latex (Rema; the best), but the above tip sounds even better since it won't put a "bump" in the tire where it's patched. Great tip!

But I have had nothing but rotten luck with Park's glueless patches on latex! (never tried them on butyl, though...)

I use regular patches on my latex tubes with no problems.

I second the rotten luck with Parks glueless...on latex and butyl both. I will never buy them again.

Park patches work fine under ideal conditions. The problem is that roadside repairs are never made under ideal conditions. A little dirt on the tube or a thumbprint on the patch and it won't stick. I carry a couple of alcohol swabs in a plastic bag in my saddle bag. I use them to clean the tube and my fingers before applying a Park patch.

Even at that a good old fashioned Rema-type patch makes a better repair.

I use to use latex tubes years ago but switched to ultralight (65gram range) butyl and I could not tell the difference! I use the Park Glueless patch on the butyl's and I have never had any problems with them. In fact I leave the patch as a permanent patch and never had one fail even after 7,000 miles. About 6 months ago this arguement came up on this forum about the glueless patch having problems, so I went to my MTB and purposely put a hole in the tube and fixed it with a Park Glueless Patch. I then did something insane and aired it up to (I think I'm remembering the PSI) around 180PSI! This pressure remained for a week then I let about 40 or 50 psi out and let it set there. That was done 6 months ago the tire has 80psi in it now with no signs of problems. But I still ride on a tube on the road bike that has over 7,000 miles on it with no issues.

By the way when I fix tubes on the road-or at home-I do not clean my fingers or the tube with alcohol or clean either with soap, why? because if a patch will not hold in "battlefield" conditions then I need to use a different patch, and both the Park Glueless and Rema patches both work in hostile conditions, I just now prefer the Glueless because it's faster and no glue tube to dry out.