Hirohsima
10-31-08, 12:47 PM
I could not find this posted elsewhere and so I took pics along the way.
Difficulty: easy
Time: <30 min
Cost: ~$8
Tools Needed:
- SSC P4 Bare Emitter http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2026
- Thermal Paste http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4593
- Soldering Iron
- Solder (I used thin gauge silver solder)
- 2mm Allen
- Non-Perminant LocTite (I used blue, but green should work fine too)
- Tweezers or knife
Procedure:
-Remove (4) 2mm bolts from the light head. You don't have to remove the mounting bracket even though I did.
Gently wiggle the two pieces apart (should come away easily)
Exploded View
http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/3513/img1586bn6.jpg
Stock Emitter:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6225/img1587ne4.jpg
Unscrew the two phillips screw heads (shown above) using a small screwdriver to release the circut board and emitter from heat-sink. Once complete pry up gently on the circut board with the knife or tweezers and wiggle the board out from the heat sink.
http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/2381/img1588kh3.jpg
Parts seperated. Rear housing is just a heat sink with thermal paste making direct contact with the back of the LED.
http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/2781/img1589al3.jpg
Pre-solder the new LED leads with a dab of solder on each lead.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6066/img1591fg1.jpg
De-solder old LED. To do this I used a knife tip to gently pry up on the LED while touching the leads w/ the soldering iron. It popped right off. Here is the SSC (left) vs Luxeon (right) LED's next to eachother:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4362/img1592jw9.jpg
Install new LED. Since you pre-soldered the leads, you just have to position the LED onto the board, hold it w/ tweezers, and lightly touch each pre-soldered lead. The solder will flow right onto the circut board with only minimal heat applied.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9084/img1593eu1.jpg
Reassemble light. Apply a dab of thermal paste to the back of the LED so that a little squishes out when re-assembled. Use LocTite on the screws. When I pulled the light apart the first time I did not put any thread locker on the thread and when I went to pull apart the light this time 2 of the screws had backed out on their own.
Beam Shots:
Before:
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/2752/img1681lc2.jpg
Camear Settings: WB:Flourescent, F4.5, 1/2 sec exposure, manual focus set at infinity, center weighted metering, ISO: 200 . Target is appx 12 feet away.
After: (Same camera settings as above)
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/7079/img1683nd9.jpg
Second after shot. Since I don't have a light meter I figure my camera does. So set at the same ISO,metering, focus, F-stop, WB but let the camera figure out the shutter speed. (which it picked 1/5 sec)
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/333/img1682sr6.jpg
The camera decided 1/5 sec was the correct exposure. So if think of it in terms of light, 1/4 sec expsure would mean the camera is seeing 2x the light as a 1/2 sec exposure. So 1/5 sec tells me I got a little more than double the light output.
Color temp changed a bit cooler which is fine by me. Center seems brighter with more spill.
Good luck all
Difficulty: easy
Time: <30 min
Cost: ~$8
Tools Needed:
- SSC P4 Bare Emitter http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2026
- Thermal Paste http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4593
- Soldering Iron
- Solder (I used thin gauge silver solder)
- 2mm Allen
- Non-Perminant LocTite (I used blue, but green should work fine too)
- Tweezers or knife
Procedure:
-Remove (4) 2mm bolts from the light head. You don't have to remove the mounting bracket even though I did.
Gently wiggle the two pieces apart (should come away easily)
Exploded View
http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/3513/img1586bn6.jpg
Stock Emitter:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6225/img1587ne4.jpg
Unscrew the two phillips screw heads (shown above) using a small screwdriver to release the circut board and emitter from heat-sink. Once complete pry up gently on the circut board with the knife or tweezers and wiggle the board out from the heat sink.
http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/2381/img1588kh3.jpg
Parts seperated. Rear housing is just a heat sink with thermal paste making direct contact with the back of the LED.
http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/2781/img1589al3.jpg
Pre-solder the new LED leads with a dab of solder on each lead.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6066/img1591fg1.jpg
De-solder old LED. To do this I used a knife tip to gently pry up on the LED while touching the leads w/ the soldering iron. It popped right off. Here is the SSC (left) vs Luxeon (right) LED's next to eachother:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4362/img1592jw9.jpg
Install new LED. Since you pre-soldered the leads, you just have to position the LED onto the board, hold it w/ tweezers, and lightly touch each pre-soldered lead. The solder will flow right onto the circut board with only minimal heat applied.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9084/img1593eu1.jpg
Reassemble light. Apply a dab of thermal paste to the back of the LED so that a little squishes out when re-assembled. Use LocTite on the screws. When I pulled the light apart the first time I did not put any thread locker on the thread and when I went to pull apart the light this time 2 of the screws had backed out on their own.
Beam Shots:
Before:
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/2752/img1681lc2.jpg
Camear Settings: WB:Flourescent, F4.5, 1/2 sec exposure, manual focus set at infinity, center weighted metering, ISO: 200 . Target is appx 12 feet away.
After: (Same camera settings as above)
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/7079/img1683nd9.jpg
Second after shot. Since I don't have a light meter I figure my camera does. So set at the same ISO,metering, focus, F-stop, WB but let the camera figure out the shutter speed. (which it picked 1/5 sec)
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/333/img1682sr6.jpg
The camera decided 1/5 sec was the correct exposure. So if think of it in terms of light, 1/4 sec expsure would mean the camera is seeing 2x the light as a 1/2 sec exposure. So 1/5 sec tells me I got a little more than double the light output.
Color temp changed a bit cooler which is fine by me. Center seems brighter with more spill.
Good luck all
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