Commuting - Bike with curly handle bar

I have a question that might sound odd to some of you. I've been commuting on a Novara Safari bike I bought new about 3 weeks ago at REI. About a week ago, I started hearing this clicking noise in the crank area when I hard pedal on the right side. Also, another problem I've got with the bike is that there's some slack turn when I start pedaling after some gliding/freewheeling. I took the bike to REI store, the guy in the bike shop couldn't find anything wrong with it and told me to go to another REI store where some experienced mechanics are. I went to that store, and the mechanic there tightened up the bottom bracket and put some light lubricant in the freewheel. I didn't hear the clicking noise right after he did that, but it started to come back on the next morning's commute to work. To make a long story short, I've lost my confidence in the bike although I like the way bike handles and fits. I'm looking into a possibility of exchanging my Safari with the Randonee, which is REI's city touring bike. The only issue I'm concerned with is that Randonee has a curly drop bar like those in road bikes. I haven't had much experience with road bikes. Also, I'm worried that the drop bar might not work great with this belly hanging in front of me. (I'm not a slim jim for sure) Any advice on whether the Randonee will work for me or what other touring type of bikes I should consider as a sub for my Safari? Thank you.

Clicking like this is very hard to diagnose even in person, much less sight unseen. But I will say this. There is a certain amount of flex in a bike frame, and it is not unusual for the frame to flex just enough for a link of chain to tick against the front derailleur when really coming down hard on the right pedal. Try trimming the front der just a bit if your shifters allow it. By that I mean make a tiny move of the lever toward the big chainring, just enough to move the der a millimeter or two out. This sometimes works better if you do it while not pedalling so you don't accidentally shift.

The bit of slack is hard to analyze, also. There may be a tiny bit of take up before the pawls in the freewheel engage. How much slack are you talking about? An inch? Two inches?

As far as the drop bar, it's not that big a deal. I do most of my riding on top of the bar, only reaching forward to shift or brake, or on the hoods if I am in traffic and need to have hands on the brake levers. Unless the bar is really low, riding on top isn't much different from using a straight bar. I only get in the drops when doing brisk group rides, and even then I spend most of the time on the brake hoods.

Thank you, RainmanP. I'll try moving the derailleur as you instructed. The slack after freewheeling is about 1 - 1.5 inch in rotation, I'd say. And, when it engages after the slack, it makes this striking bang although not very loud, and I find it annoying. Thank you again for all the info including the drop bar experience.

I have a question that might sound odd to some of you. I've been commuting on a Novara Safari bike I bought new about 3 weeks ago at REI. About a week ago, I started hearing this clicking noise in the crank area when I hard pedal on the right side . . .

I had a click when I pedaled after about a year on my current bicycle. Took it to my lbs and found out that the bike (cheapazoid Giant) used plastic cups to hold the bearings in the crank. I guess that even with my wuss torque, it was too much for the cups. I replaced them with the recommended metal cups and no more squeak. And my bike shop was very reasonable as to cost also.

Wasatch Commute:

I am currently riding a '04 Randonee as my daily commuter (27 miles routrip). I love it especially for the drop bars. The one nice addition to the '04 was a Ritchey adjustable stem which lets you raise the drop bars quite a bit.

The other option for a commuter with upright bars is a Breezer Greenway or Liberty. I like the drop bars on the Randonee, but the fact the Breezers come with rack, fenders, lights, etc., was a real plus.

I think it depends on the route. I normally commute on an upright Kettler Silverstar, much like the Breezer. If you have lots of stoplights, heavy traffic, or snow to deal with, I think the traditional upright position is best.

On the other hand, I sometimes use my wife's road bike. The only section where I am down in the drops is a half mile straightaway -- th only place where I go for more than a block or two without a stoplight. It is a delight to hunker down and whizz down that thing. If all of my route were like that, I might put drops on my own bike.

Paul

Wasatch Commute:

I bought a 2003 Safari last year and have put over 3000 miles on it, mostly commuting and short overnight tours. It has been a bulletproof bike for me so far, and ran flawlessly through a wet PNW winter of commuting. Anyway, sounds like the REI where you bought the bike, the one that recommended you go to another with "experienced mechanics" may have screwed up the build. Perhaps you could get one from the other REI, built up by the better mechanics?

But if you are sold on a Randonee, they are also a great bike. REI sells the Butterfly bars that are one the Safari, so you could replace the drops on the Randonee with them. Of course that will require different shifters and brakes, but I bet you could get REI to do that.

Chances are the clicking can be fixed with a bit of grease. It usually comes from connection points that need to be tight, but which do move slightly under stress. Before returnung the bike, get the mechanic to pull off the cranks and apply a liberal dose of grease to the spindle. Then pull out the bottom bracket and do the same to the threads. This should solve it. Bike makers are notorious for skimping on places where they think you won't notice it, appropriate amounts of good quality grease being one of them. You'll probably want to re-pack the hubs after a few monthe too.

The fact that the 'experienced' mechanic merely tightened up your bottom bracket doesn't instill much confidence. When you start having to pay for services on your bike, I'd consider going elsewhere.

The drop bars a great when you have to struggle against a head wind. long rides are better with drop bars because the many possible hand positions give your whole upper body a relief, not just your hands.

The drop bars a great when you have to struggle against a head wind. long rides are better with drop bars because the many possible hand positions give your whole upper body a relief, not just your hands.

Actually I have found the trekking bar gives far more hand positions than the drop bars I have used. Also when you use the front of the bars you are very aerodynamic. It is pretty much the same position as mustache bars, which are known to be more aerodynamic than drops. Handlebars are as personal an issue as saddles but sometimes it seems like many partisans have only tried the style they claim as the "best". I have used 4 different style of bars and I have found the trekking bars to be my favorite, but I would never claim them as the best. To each their own, viva la differance! ;)

Clicking like this is very hard to diagnose even in person, much less sight unseen. But I will say this. There is a certain amount of flex in a bike frame, and it is not unusual for the frame to flex just enough for a link of chain to tick against the front derailleur when really coming down hard on the right pedal. Try trimming the front der just a bit if your shifters allow it. By that I mean make a tiny move of the lever toward the big chainring, just enough to move the der a millimeter or two out. This sometimes works better if you do it while not pedalling so you don't accidentally shift.

The bit of slack is hard to analyze, also. There may be a tiny bit of take up before the pawls in the freewheel engage. How much slack are you talking about? An inch? Two inches?

As far as the drop bar, it's not that big a deal. I do most of my riding on top of the bar, only reaching forward to shift or brake, or on the hoods if I am in traffic and need to have hands on the brake levers. Unless the bar is really low, riding on top isn't much different from using a straight bar. I only get in the drops when doing brisk group rides, and even then I spend most of the time on the brake hoods.

More I look at the problem, it seems like it has to do with what RainmanP suggested. (about the clicking sound) As Kodama predicted, I'm now more sold on the Randonee for many other reasons besides just having had this problem with the Safari. I hope that with the cro-moly frame Randonee has, I won't have this same problem of having my chain rubbing against the front der. I'm gonna head out to REI tonight (half hour drive each way) and testride the Randonee. They have sizes 52 and 54. 17 inch frame (comfort/hybrid) fits me well, but I have no idea whether size 52 will be comparable. I'm attracted to the drop bar more now after reading you guys' posts, and it gives little "pro" appearance when you're riding in the city. Anyway, that's just me, but I shouldn't actually be basing my decision on appearance when choosing commuter bike. If Randonee doesn't work out, I'm looking at the Big Buzz, also REI brand. I'll let you guys know how it goes. I appreciate all of your posts, which gives me tremendous support.

Well, I go the Randonee last night. My commute this morning was great. It was much smoother ride than on Safari, which is also great in many ways too. My hands coordinated well with the drop bar. (like using the brake lever and gear shift) However, I noticed that my hands got little tired after riding the first 5 miles because they're not used to holding the handle bar in different way. My hands were on the hood the whole time because I mainly ride through heavy traffic with many lights. I think I'll like the Randonee a lot. Now, I need to get a back rack to use my trunk bag with.

It is pretty much the same position as mustache bars, which are known to be more aerodynamic than drops.

Can you cite some references for this? I've always found drops to be more aero. I'm sure a lot of it depends on set-up, but I'd love to see some studies backing this up.

Jim-bob,
I read that in one of the Rivendell Readers which I have archived on CD-R. I read through a ton of them while I was "working" ;) so it will take some time to find the source. I also recall that the mustache design predates drops as well. Anyway I'll do some digging and post what I find in this thread.

All right here is where I read this, you'll probably have to do some googling if you want citations (or ask Grant on the Rivendell Forum, he has been really good with detailed answers)

from here: http://rivendellbicycles.com/webalog/handlebars_stems_tape/16027.html



A variation of a shape that has been around for more than a century -- longer than drop bars, even. The details of this one bend evolved during five prototypes and thousands of miles of testing and refinement during my/Grant's commute to work in 1990-91. The first proto-type was bent by a plumber out of copper tubing. This Nitto-made, copper-free model is perfect in every way. It offers the quick and easy braking position of a flat bar with the multiple hand positions of a drop bar -- and is better than either for a whole lot of riding.

On a commute bike where speed, visibility, quick brake access, and multiple hand positions matter, there is no better bar. You can go fast on the road and get more aero than you can with a standard drop bar. The wider-than-a-drop- bar grip helps you to pull up steep climbs and stay in control on bumpy sprints. You can ride the Moustache Handlebar off road and reach the brakes instantly, just as you can with a straight bar.


I think that it makes sense that you can get more aero with 'stache bars as you can be positioned flatter. With drops you tend to see an arc in the back as it forces a somewhat hunched position unless they are really forward. Some day, cash willing, I'm going to build up a Rivendell bicycle and I'll be putting mustache bars on it.