Classic & Vintage - ISO and For Trade thread parts 2 and 3.

you should just buy one of those lugged seatposts rivendell sells... hehhe


WTB:
SR mte-100 adjustable seatpost as pictured below.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3363/3183341588_a9f3bf30f6.jpg

I am looking for a early 90's Trek headbadge, Ebay yielded nothing. My bike is a 91, and it would be nice to have the same style, but I would even consider newer or older styles.

I have some misc. parts available for trade, or cash.

Matt

Want:
27x1 1/4 Alloy Wheels
Front and Rear Derailleurs-Alloy and Preferably Suntour
Bar End Shifters, friction for use with 10 speed bike-Preferably Suntour

Have:
27X1 Araya Bronze Wheelset
Bunch of random stuff-pm me for what you want...

Want: (for the Davidson in my sig)
Dura Ace 74xx series Brake Calipers
Dura Ace 74xx series/600 pedals
White/Gold Rolls

Clamp for Cinelli 1R stem.

Here's a 1R:
http://43bikes.com/%7E/cinelli-web/1r.jpg

Heres the part I'm looking for:
http://thebikestand.com/cinelli-clamp.jpg

Have: (updated)
44t 144bcd Sugino Aero Mighty Chainring,
285mm (i think. i can remeasure) Sapim Race Spokes (32)
FSA SLK Carbon Seatpost 27.2
NOS White Industries Hub laced to Open Pro Radially with DB Sapim Race Spokes
Record Hubs laced to Nisi Tubular Rims. Some rust on eyelets, hubs need new grease, but are in good shape.
Campagnolo Triomphe Double w/chainrings. great condition.
Campagnolo Nuovo Record Rear Der with damaged cage. Otherwise good condition.
NOS/NIB Campagnolo Valentino Front Der and Shifters (with mount)
Drilled Modolo Levers, non-aero. Very pretty, great shape. black.

Possibly:
9spd 105 double crank. Used, like new. Black
9spd 105 brake calipers. Used, like new. Black
9spd 105 STI Shifters. Used, a couple blemishes. Work well. Black.
9spd Ultegra F and R ders. Long Cage/Triple.
Rolls, black with non-slip embroidering. Gold Rails.
Black Cinelli 1A stem, 100mm ish.

Want:
27x1 1/4 Alloy Wheels
Front and Rear Derailleurs-Alloy and Preferably Suntour
Bar End Shifters, friction for use with 10 speed bike-Preferably Suntour

Have:
27X1 Araya Bronze Wheelset
Bunch of random stuff-pm me for what you want...

PM sent

want:
mavic brake levers. Aero, non aero, what do you have?
Campy non aero levers might work for me too.

have:
-early dia compe gran compe aero levers, no hoods
-simplex retro friction gold anodized dt shifters
- try me, I might have something else you need.

HAVE:
Front wheel, 700c, black matrix rim (appears to be lightly used) on French 36h hub. (Maillard, I think.) It has been sitting outside for a while (someone else's fault). The nipples are showing significant sign of rust and I would recommend that the spokes be replaced. Other than that, the hub and rim seem quite salvageable.

WANT:
Someone in the Boston area with wheel building experience to lace together my Shimano 600 rear hub onto my Sun M13II rim. I am using used spokes in pretty good condition. This is for my beater bike.

I have Avocet/Ofmega 175mm crank arms (144mm BCD); drilled for triple rings:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/avocet175.jpg

I need similar quality/condition crank arms in 165mm, Zeus chainrings 36T - 50T, 144mm BCD chainrings 43T or 47T. TA 5-pin outer chainrings 42T - 50T. TA 5-pin crankarms 165-170mm.
I'm not sure they're drilled for triples. It looks more like drilled for appearance. Wouldn't a triple mount involved the back of the crank arm, and involve the middle ring?

Trying to sell my Ciocc. This is the bike I almost got scammed on trying to sell on Chicago CL. 56cm seat tube, 55cm top tube. I would trade for a similar bike 58-60cm, sell outright, or do a partial trade for a steel bike of the latter size with good tubing. I would sell/ trade for the frame and fork, with the Shimano STX headset and Campagnolo Centaur BB that's are installed. Both were new when I installed them. I've ridden the bike about 20 miles since. If you want a full listing of the parts on the build, send a PM.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWezc43yXbI/AAAAAAAABv0/g2OOtbUDAeE/s720/DSC01625.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWevl5LPDFI/AAAAAAAABs8/nncUTdL2dPg/s720/DSC01614.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWevnpol1zI/AAAAAAAABtE/EQnLAtVCzaI/s720/DSC01615.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWevpbnq-NI/AAAAAAAABtM/G0SK1J91Isk/s720/DSC01616.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWevrud4f8I/AAAAAAAABtU/dtXQefAonfI/s720/DSC01617.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWevtsp_YJI/AAAAAAAABtc/Qs13xTmJlnA/s720/DSC01618.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWevxU7IiII/AAAAAAAABts/SK7HvbTDbyw/s720/DSC01620.JPG

Also have these pedals, I think they're Campagnolo Victory, with the Cinelli Gran Cidismo toe straps and Campagnolo clips, size Medium-Large.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWev2jqRSPI/AAAAAAAABuE/ZcXDE6uZ7GQ/s720/DSC01623.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_NhTmv38HQSo/SWev4syrNtI/AAAAAAAABuM/RWRAgsk5S4Q/s720/DSC01624.JPG

And I have some MKS AR-8 pedals with MKS clips and straps, size LL, that came off a Bridgestone RB-2.

PM sent

1. Yes, but with the right size spacer and bolt you could screw into those holes.
2. No, why should it?

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it is drilled for different BCDs for more options... but you could be right also, my first instinct was cosmetic... but it's no different than an old record triple.

I'm just trying to figure it, visualize how it would work.

I'm not sure they're drilled for triples. It looks more like drilled for appearance. Wouldn't a triple mount involved the back of the crank arm, and involve the middle ring?
Nope, it's drilled and tapped (at the factory) for triple rings in either of two different BCDs 102mm (outer holes) or 74mm (inner holes). The rings are attached using special stand-off bolts. I have one of these (170mm arms) on my commuter bike:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/ofmega01.jpg

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/ofmega02.jpg

I watched breaking away today for the 48th time. I now want to build a replica of the Little 500 AMF Roadmaster. I have done a google search and not found much information. Does anyone have a 70's vintage Roadmaster they'd like to sell or trade.(I never thought I'd hear myself say that).

I watched breaking away today for the 48th time. I now want to build a replica of the Little 500 AMF Roadmaster. I have done a google search and not found much information. Does anyone have a 70's vintage Roadmaster they'd like to sell or trade.(I never thought I'd hear myself say that).

Are you going to move to Indiana too? :D

Are you going to move to Indiana too? :D

Damn cutters anyhow...

My cousin has 300 acres just outside of Bloomington that's squeezed in by a couple of big quarries but you could pitch a tent...:D:thumb:

Looking for a 26.6mm seatpost for a Cilo. Not picky.

Have: some dollars, a stem or two, a funky set of ACG breaks and some other random stuff.
Thanks
WjV

Nope, it's drilled and tapped (at the factory) for triple rings in either of two different BCDs 102mm (outer holes) or 74mm (inner holes). The rings are attached using special stand-off bolts. I have one of these (170mm arms) on my commuter bike:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/ofmega01.jpg

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/ofmega02.jpg

That's very cool. I have an Ofmega crank I'd love to go triple with, a Mistral, but drilling it would ruin the appearance. I've seen some conversions to triple that use a middle ring that has extensions in towards the spindle to hold a small ring, but I've never seen that setup. I would think there's a lot of sheer stress on those standoff bolts, but it's obviously working. Thanks so much for the heads-up.

By the way, on the Trek front. Aren't a couple of those original guys making canoes?

Have:
Shimano RX100 (BR-A550) front brake caliper
Shimano 105 (BR-1055) front brake caliper
NOS Pink Dia Comp brake hoods - non aero, still in package
Black 1" threadless Aheadset
120mm 1 1/8" adjustable Dimension stem
120mm 3T quill stem
40t 110 bcd chainring
NOS nylon straps
1 small Christophe chrome toe clip
Replacement track axle

Take offs from Windsor Hour:
Stock front wheel
Black 170 Truvativ Touro cranks & BB
Black 27.2 seatpost
16t 3/32 cog
Lock ring
Quando flip flop hub - stripped fixed side, never used freewheel side

Want:
165-170 track/singlespeed or square taper road cranks
Dual pivot brakeset or rear brake caliper
Aero brake levers (preferably with white hoods)
Pinup for Cinelli Alter (120mm)
White brake housing
ACS Claws (or similar) freewheel

That's very cool. I have an Ofmega crank I'd love to go triple with, a Mistral, but drilling it would ruin the appearance. I've seen some conversions to triple that use a middle ring that has extensions in towards the spindle to hold a small ring, but I've never seen that setup. I would think there's a lot of sheer stress on those standoff bolts, but it's obviously working. Thanks so much for the heads-up.
You're right, the "Mistral" is too cool to drill. IIRC, there are some adapter rings that allow a smaller ring to mount on 144mm BCD crank but I don't remember who mkes them.

Mistral crank, for those not familiar with it:
http://os2.dhs.org/~john/mistral.JPG

Want:

Truvativ Bottom Bracket Adapter

Ofmega


you're right, the "mistral" is too cool to drill. Iirc, there are some adapter rings that allow a smaller ring to mount on 144mm bcd crank but i don't remember who mkes them.

Mistral crank, for those not familiar with it:
http://os2.dhs.org/~john/mistral.jpg

Have: early 90's record levers. Mild rash in a couple spots and some oxidation on return springs. Hoods...well they are there, not so good.

Need- Dura Ace BL-7402 levers.

You're right, the "Mistral" is too cool to drill. IIRC, there are some adapter rings that allow a smaller ring to mount on 144mm BCD crank but I don't remember who mkes them.

Mistral crank, for those not familiar with it:
http://os2.dhs.org/~john/mistral.JPG
Yep, that's the pretty one.
Pastorbob sent me the link to the tripilizer, just haven't gotten that far into it.

Have:

New 27" x 1-1/4" Panaracer Pasela Tourguard folding tire with Kevlar.

Want:

New, or excellent aero brake hoods to fit Grand Compe brakes (did they make these pups in anything besides gum?)

or

a tubular tire in good shape

or

three new tubes (to fit 26" x 1-3/8 w/schrader)

or

two sets of rim strips to fit 26" x 1-3/8"

Want:

New, or excellent brake hoods to fit Grand Compe brakes (did they make these pups in anything besides gum?)



If you are looking for hoods for early 80's style levers, the standard DiaCompe hoods fit well. You just have to wiggle carefully to get them past those huge adjusters. Not quite as soft and gummy as the originals, but much easier to find.

Want:

New, or excellent brake hoods to fit Grand Compe brakes (did they make these pups in anything besides gum?)




John, if you're interested in those Dia-Compe levers I have let me know and I'll send them your way. I think they are NOS, but may not be what you're looking for... I'm not sure they are Grand Compe.

If you are looking for hoods for early 80's style levers, the standard DiaCompe hoods fit well. You just have to wiggle carefully to get them past those huge adjusters. Not quite as soft and gummy as the originals, but much easier to find.

Should have mentioned - these are aero levers.

I have a crankset (Stronglight 99) with 14mm Metric (a/k/a French) thread.

I would like to find some nice French (Mavic,Maillard,Atom,Lyotard,etc.) road pedals.

Lyotard 65 or 82 would be nice. Some of the Lyotard 45 series would be OK as would some of the Maillard/Atom 700 are nice (specifically the Maillard 700 on VeloBase).

I really don't want the black anodized type.

I have a Motobecane and most of the parts are French so I would like to find French pedals too.
They're Spanish, not French but I have some well-used Zeus road pedals with 14 X 1.25M threading:

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/zeus-metric/01.jpg

http://os2.dhs.org/~john/zeus-metric/02.jpg

Steel cages and alloy bodies, and uber-cool strap loops! Not much to look at, but then again I wouldn't expect much in return.

Have:

New 27" x 1-1/4" Panaracer Pasela Tourguard folding tire with Kevlar.

Want:

New, or excellent aero brake hoods to fit Grand Compe brakes (did they make these pups in anything besides gum?)

or

a tubular tire in good shape



If you find some non-aero Gran Compe hoods I'll be happy to take them...

I may have a couple of tubulars that would work for you, I'll check when I get home..

Are the 252's for Gran Compe aero? If so, I'd really like yellow.

Are the 252's for Gran Compe aero? If so, I'd really like yellow.

Yes, "For AGC250" means Aero Gran Compe part #250 (the lever) I also have a pair so I know they really exist but I'm not sure how common they are. A cursory search makes it seem like yellow jersey might have them, even if their prices were more reasonable I find their website too atrocious to navigate.

I have:
Thomson Elite 26.8mm x 330mm silver aluminum seat post that looks new.

1989 Campagnolo Chorus CO10-SM rear derailleur looks very good has a few scratches but functions flawlessly --- white pulleys.

Ultegra 6500 Front Derailleur with 26.8 mm clamp less than 50 miles on it.


Bell Solar Helmet size L yellow and silver, new.




I really need 28.6 braze on adapter---silver.

Want:

Truvativ Bottom Bracket Adapter
.833 in quill stem---100-120mm
27x1 1/4 inch alloy wheel set
or
700c alloy/aluminum wheelset

and....ONE MILLION DOLLARS...

Have...well pm me with requests

What era of gran compe? There are at least a couple hood types I am aware of. I have a nice set of black hoods from the 1980s non-aero version....

well why don't I just get to the point and post a photo....type 204.7

suitable for type 204 levers... i.e. any on this page:

but I believe they are a good fit for type 200 as well as I have tried them in the past...which includes nuovo gran compe not shown on that page.


Really an instructive response Cyclotaine; I'd be willing to take them off your hands for cash or search my parts bin for something you might be seeking. I couldn't find an exact match for the Gran Compe levers I have on my Nishiki Olympic 12 and my Centurion Turbo; the levers are pretty much identical but the set on the Nishiki have got a slotted barrel that comes out the top and houses a cable tension adjuster while the set on the Turbo just have the more common loose reducing ferrule. In the photos below you can see the black Dia Compe hoods are a pretty good fit on the Turbo, while the newer and clearly lower quality Cane Creek tan hoods on the Nishiki are a poor fit.

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/th_GranCompeLevers001.jpg (http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/?action=view&current=GranCompeLevers001.jpg)
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/th_GranCompeLevers004.jpg (http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/?action=view&current=GranCompeLevers004.jpg)
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/th_GranCompeLevers008.jpg (http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/?action=view&current=GranCompeLevers008.jpg)
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/th_GranCompeLevers009.jpg (http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/?action=view&current=GranCompeLevers009.jpg)
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/th_GranCompeLevers010.jpg (http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj102/shouteefbock/Gran%20Compe%20Levers/?action=view&current=GranCompeLevers010.jpg)

Have:

New 27" x 1-1/4" Panaracer Pasela Tourguard folding tire with Kevlar.

Want:

a tubular tire in good shape


I had to check my wheel and tire pile. I have a pair of Wolber Invulnerables that have never been installed but I've stretched them out and put them on rims with no glue or tape. However, when I removed these from the package last summer each of the tires had a small crack in the tread that ran from side to side right at one of the inner folds in the package where neither seller nor buyer could see until the tire was actually removed. If you think you could use them, we can work something out. I thought about trying to fill/patch them with latex sidewall restorative but haven't messed with them yet.

Yes, "For AGC250" means Aero Gran Compe part #250 (the lever) I also have a pair so I know they really exist but I'm not sure how common they are. A cursory search makes it seem like yellow jersey might have them, even if their prices were more reasonable I find their website too atrocious to navigate.

Looks like "not". Their website is more than I'm willing to endure also under normal circumstances. Looks like even if they did have them, they'd want $60.00 for a pair. Ouch!

23skidoo - how old are those tires, and how severe is that discontinuity?

Looks like "not". Their website is more than I'm willing to endure also under normal circumstances. Looks like even if they did have them, they'd want $60.00 for a pair. Ouch!

23skidoo - how old are those tires, and how severe is that discontinuity?

No idea on the age of the tires, but they were in the factory plastic when I bought them last summer. As for the discontinuity--I love them big words like that--I'd say it goes completely from side to side with a series of smaller, shallower discontinuities along side and probably to a few millimeters in depth maybe right down to the threads. I'm getting ready to head out to my pt job now but could snap a couple of pix later and let you be the judge if you're still interested. Other than the crevasses, the tires are still supple and in nice condition.

yellowjersey does have an absolutely horrible website--according to a friend it's an accurate mirror of the shop--but you can't beat their 3 for $50 price for brand new tubbies and they are great tires, I run several sets.

Looking for a steel touring bike with a 62cm seat tube + and 59cm+ top tube. I only need frame/fork, but would consider a complete bike as well. Needs to be able to take 700c wheels, canti mounts, and full rack/fender mounts as well. Also, needs to have semi-horizontal dropouts. I have a build in mind and finding the frame/fork will be the toughest part.

I'm a complete scatterbrain (well not entirely)

Have:

(Trade pending) Cinelli silver 1-R stem, 115 mm, good condition, some light scratches, but am pretty certain almost all would polish out.

Cinelli Campion del mundo handlebars, 66-40 - have some pretty severe scratches on the left portion of the collar, but otherwise very nice - no grooves for cabling.

Want:

Black alloy handlebars, 26.4 diameter, single groove, from 38-42 width would work nicely.

http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/d/158949-4/Page+27.jpg

I'm pretty sure I have a NOS pair of 204.7/P if anyone is interested.

In the photos below you can see the black Dia Compe hoods are a pretty good fit on the Turbo, while the newer and clearly lower quality Cane Creek tan hoods on the Nishiki are a poor fit. (emphasis added by me) I'm surprised to hear that you think the Cane Creek hoods are lower quality, my experience was exactly the opposite. The last couple sets of generic Dia-Compe replacements I got before the switch to Cane Creek were pretty crummy. However, I was quite pleased with the Cane Creek replacements, the rubber is much more substantial and less tacky and it doesn't have that stupid punch-out for suicide levers that seems to tear half the time.
I'm fairly certain that the Cane Creeks are made on the 165 pattern for the common Dia-Compe levers that were found on millions of bikes. Note that the Gran Compe specific hoods have slightly "shorter" bodies. They also aren't designed for the adjuster barrels like the GC hoods, but that problem can be remedied with a razor blade and should help the overall fit substantially.


Looks like "not". Their website is more than I'm willing to endure also under normal circumstances. Looks like even if they did have them, they'd want $60.00 for a pair. Ouch!

Too bad, good luck in your search!

(emphasis added by me) I'm surprised to hear that you think the Cane Creek hoods are lower quality, my experience was exactly the opposite. The last couple sets of generic Dia-Compe replacements I got before the switch to Cane Creek were pretty crummy. However, I was quite pleased with the Cane Creek replacements, the rubber is much more substantial and less tacky and it doesn't have that stupid punch-out for suicide levers that seems to tear half the time.


I've installed at least half a dozen sets of Cane Creek hoods and it is precisely that more substantial rubber that lowers the quality IMHO; if you look at the photos of the Cane Creek hoods I posted you will see a split where the hood meets the bar and this has happened to some extent on every single hood when attempting to roll the hood back on itself enough to properly seat the small piece of bar wrap under the hood which covers the bar clamp. It's a cheaper, lower-grade of rubber with very limited suppleness and flexibility. We certainly agree on the punch-out for suicide levers though.;)

I've installed at least half a dozen sets of Cane Creek hoods and it is precisely that more substantial rubber that lowers the quality IMHO; if you look at the photos of the Cane Creek hoods I posted you will see a split where the hood meets the bar and this has happened to some extent on every single hood when attempting to roll the hood back on itself enough to properly seat the small piece of bar wrap under the hood which covers the bar clamp. It's a cheaper, lower-grade of rubber with very limited suppleness and flexibility. We certainly agree on the punch-out for suicide levers though.;)

They definitely are more rigid when compared to the older DC hoods, but I find them to be about the same as any modern hood, probably because Tektro manufactures practically everything. The truth is that any hood, regardless of the quality is delicate in this sense. I've never had one split on me, even when I've had to roll them quite far. There are a few things that I find help:
Warm the hoods by soaking in hot (not too hot) water to soften them up.
Go SLOWLY
Flip a minimal amount of the hood over and then pull it back on itself, rather than trying to flip a lot of it over at once. In other words try to roll the edge and peel it straight back on itself as opposed to sticking your finger under it and inverting it. I'm not sure if you'll understand what I mean exactly, but if you can visualize it you'll see that doing it this way minimizes the amount the very outside edge must stretch through.
I'm sure it shortens the life of the rubber somewhat but you can use rubbing alcohol to help slide the hood around on the lever body.
Most importantly: Be Lucky ;)
Replacing hoods is always a stressful job for me :twitchy: Good luck:thumb:

...Ultimately, on my vintage restoration piece type rides I use cotton tape an then there is no need to peel the tape back because the prefferred method is to position the levers and then remove them when you get close with the tape and wrap around the clamp. When I am done wrapping I reinstall the lever. It's clean and it allows you to remove the levers without affecting the tape! I start doing this when I was working on my gazelle and waiting for my reproduction campy world logo hoods (worth every penny BTW even if I would actually prefer the rubber to be more rigid).

+1 This is the only way I wrap my bars after seeing it demo'ed on Ray Dobbin's site (http://www.raydobbins.com/molteni_replica/molteni_tip).


cyclotoine, where did you order your reproduction campy hoods?

stan

ISO: short quill stem. Did they make a 60, 70 or 80mm? I am trying to fit int a bike that has a longer TT than I usually ride. A slight ride would be and added benefit.

:beer:

-GG-

ISO: short quill stem. Did they make a 60, 70 or 80mm? I am trying to fit int a bike that has a longer TT than I usually ride. A slight ride would be and added benefit.

:beer:

-GG-
Yes, there are some even shorter. I've got a 70mm on one of my bikes, a couple of 80's, all Cinelli.
I find older quills even shorter are easily available. The Cinelli's are harder to find.

ISO: short quill stem. Did they make a 60, 70 or 80mm? I am trying to fit int a bike that has a longer TT than I usually ride.
-GG-

Nitto makes quill stems with very short reaches. They are readily available. Search or eBay or google, or just check your LBS.

....and it doesn't have that stupid punch-out for suicide levers that seems to tear half the time.

I'm fairly certain that the Cane Creeks are made on the 165 pattern for the common Dia-Compe levers that were found on millions of bikes.

Thanks! You just answered a basic question that I had - 165 (not shown in the 1986 catalog) is probably the lever that I have on my Fuji & Motobecane. The other question I had was whether rubber hoods could be used with safety levers, and it seems that yes, there would be sufficient clearance on the side.

Edit: wait, I'm starting to get it.... The 165 is a 144 base with the substitution of the longer pivot post to accept the accessory safety/suicide lever.

Have a 12-23 Campy cluster on an 8 speed freehub. It's my get-around bike and a little too racey for me. If anyone has a looser cluster or some lower-geared cogs - I'm looking to trade or buy.

have: suntour cyclone 7000 nos rear derailleur mounted and removed.
want: shimano 105 or 600 7 speed shift levers

or that thing we all want....

Looking for a Campy Shamal 12-HPW (12 spokes) front wheel, 700c, clincher, in nice shape. I only need the front wheel, but will consider a pair (12s or 16s) if that's what you have. Thanks.