Mountain Biking - $929.50 vs. $569.99

Okay, so I am bored and I priced out what it would cost to build my bike up to the Tassajara level of componentry, and it would cost me $929.50, factoring in 200 bucks for labor and 100 bucks shipping and handling on the parts. At my LBS, the cost of a brand new Tassajara is $569.99. This is a staggering difference. Even If i built up my 820 to that level, it STILL would be a steel framed, non-genesis bike. Wow. :eek:

Yep! The manufacturer's have BUYING POWER that allows them to purchase components at OEM prices. You'll always get a better deal on a complete bike vs. custom assembled. However, you usually have to compromise on the selection of forks, wheels,...etc.

You can come close going the custom route if you're a decent mechanic, and have a lot of time to wait and buy parts on close-out.

Keep this in mind when buying a new bike and trying to decide between a so-so fork and the next level bike up. It may cost you $100 more for the next level bike, but if you had to swap out the fork afterwards, you'd be out the cost of the new fork (@$250 to $400), plus labor to do it and little things that you don't think of.

Same goes for deciding between discs or vee brakes. If you stick with vee-brakes and want to upgrade later, the cost will be significantly higher than the next level bike with discs already included.

L8R

I'm currently upgrading my old Norco Java. By shopping on Ebay and buying at deep discounts online I've probably spent half as much as I would have buing new or full priceed stuff. For example; I bought used 8-speed XT shifter pods for $48 shipped and used Avid SD-5 brakes $36 shipped off Ebay. I bought the brakes levers($20) at the LBS where I had all this installed for $30. It all works just like new.

But I do agree; buying a new bike, in the long run will save you money.

Dave

One quickie: when you swap out the fork, do you have to get a different headset? The fork on my 820 is the only thing that is buming me out. I also want to get a zero stack headset and a lesser rise stem, for a more athletic stance

No, you don't HAVE to. You will have to remove the bearing race mounted to the steerer tube.

I would suggest to go ahead and replace it. Chances are the one that came stock on your bike is the lowest quality available. You can get a decent mid-level headset with sealed bearings on sale for under $40.

A new flatter stem will also help with your climbing as it will put you in a more forward position on your bike and will transfer more weight to the front tire when ascending.

L8R

I have gathered so far that i will need to cut down the current steerer tube too. hacksaw?

Either a pipe cutter (found at Lowe's or Home Depot or LHS), or your LBS where they use a hacksaw and most importantly a hacksaw GUIDE that allows for a straight cut.

Oh, and remember to measure twice cut once!

Actually, your steerer tube length will not be too different. You have to measure the stack height of the headset, the length of your head tube and the the height of your stem, add about 3-5mm for spacers. The only major difference will be if you get a new headset, and the delta will only be a couple mm's.

L8R

I think I will order a new headset and stem for the first upgrade of the summer. Damn thing feels like a cruiser with as high as it goes. Check it out:

Is that a picture of your "actual" bike or from the website?

Do you have THAT many spacers below the stem? If so, remove them and for now, put them on top of the stem. This will allow the star nut to still function properly. You may find that lower the stem will positively affect the handling of your bike.

L8R

Yes, sadly, that is how it is set up now. The only difference between that pic and my actual bike is that i have bar ends, a computer, two bottle cages, and a pack under the saddle. And to do that, let me guess: I remove the cap, loosen the stem, slide the stem up, slide spacers up, put stem back, put spacers on top of stem, re attatch cap, that about it?

you also might be able to flip the stem over, but I'm not completely certain on that. the big thing that you need to remember when you are doing all of this business is to tighten the top cap while the bolts on the stem are loose. When the headset doesn't have any more play (but doesn't bind up), then you tighten the stem bolts. BTW, I did the same thing on my road bike.

QUOTE: I think I will order a new headset and stem for the first upgrade of the summer. Damn thing feels like a cruiser with as high as it goes. Check it out:


Amen to that, mine is like that as well.