Bicycle Mechanics - won't shift to last cog on my racing wheels

I recently bought an Easton EC70 SL wheelset with a shimano 11-23 cassette for racing. I use Mavic Open Pros with Ultegra hubs and an 12-27 shimano cassette for training. The ultegra hub does not require the 1mm spacer between the cassette and the hub because my rear derailleur will not shift to the smallest cog. Without the spacer, it goes onto the last cog without problems. However, the Easton hubs require the 1mm spacer because there is play between the cassettes without it. Now, I cannot shift to the 11t on my racing wheels. Does anybody have this problem? It has nothing to do with the limit screws because I already tried setting the H limit and it did not help.

I have to adjust the rear derailleur cable a little when i switch wheels.

I believe the problem is due to the 1mm spacer because it moves the entire cassette body to the right. That 1mm makes all the difference in the world when shifting to the smallest cog. Even the H Limit screw loosened all the way does not remedy it. Is there any way to solve this problem?

I'm wondering if a 0.5mm cassette spacer will solve the problem.

you any just have to adjust your derailleur when you change wheels cuz the spacing difference will through things off, as well as possibly re adjust your limiter screws with the different wheel on there. could you add a spacer to make it match up your other wheels specs? but yeah, i think the previous post reply about nails it.

you any just have to adjust your derailleur when you change wheels cuz the spacing difference will through things off, as well as possibly re adjust your limiter screws with the different wheel on there. could you add a spacer to make it match up your other wheels specs? but yeah, i think the previous post reply about nails it.

The problem is I have to remove a spacer to match up my other wheel's specs. But without the spacer, there's play in the cassette. I tried readjusting the limit screws to the point I removed the whole H Limit screw and it still would not shift to the last cog without a huge lag. Perhaps its the geometry of the RD hanger? It's a brand new bike and components though.

Can you add a spacer to the other wheelset?

Can you add a spacer to the other wheelset?

I tried it with the spacer in the beginning with the same problem with inability to shift to last cog. Took it out and it works fine on the training wheels without any play in the cassette. Perhaps the shimano hubs are more compatible. I don't know why the clearance is so tight and 1mm makes such a big diff with it comes to limit screws.

When the shifter is in the smallest cog position with the 11T cog is the cable very tight? Try turning the adjusting barrel on the rear derailleur clockwise a turn or so and see if that allows the shift. If the adjusting barrel is screwde all the way in, loosen the hold down bolt and allow the cable to gain some more slack, then readjust the shifting.

It sounds like you need to give the derailleur some more slack on the cable so it can shift to the smallest cog. the limit screw will only set the limit of where it can go if the cable were to completely let go (break)...screw the barrel adjuster all the way in and see if that helps or you may need to actually loosen the cable if the barrel doesn't have enough room to properly adjust it (and yes, you may need to loosen the limit screw to allow the unit to move far enough once you let it have enough slack)

that's one of the things i did when adjusting the limit screws. I give the cable a lot of slack to get very floppy. Pretty much tried everything in the book and still haven't got a clue.

Get a small spacer 1mm and put it between the 11t cog and lockring. This takes up the slack so the cassette's not loose. And it should place the cogs in roughly the same position as the other wheel so you don't have to mess with the RD very much. It should be small enough in diameter so that it doesn't touch the chain and interfere.

Get a small spacer 1mm and put it between the 11t cog and lockring. This takes up the slack so the cassette's not loose. And it should place the cogs in roughly the same position as the other wheel so you don't have to mess with the RD very much. It should be small enough in diameter so that it doesn't touch the chain and interfere.

That's what I was thinking. The first thing I tried was moving the 1mm spacer from the back to the front between the lockring and 11t but it turned out to have too big of a diameter and wouldn't work. Where would I find a small 1mm spacer for a cassette? Would it be at the LBS or a hardware store? I'm not aware shimano manufactures 1mm cassette spacers.

Sheldon knows all...

...or at least this may be of some help...

http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec

Hey guys, I finally figured it out. I tried putting a spacer between the locking but didn't work bc the 11t is recessed to the edge of the freehub and cannot compress the cassette. I went over everything again to double check and as it turned out, the cable was loose but not loose enough :bang:. I loosened the cable completely out of the bolt and it shifted to the last cog without hesitation. It needed about 1mm of slack on the cable which was enough to offset the 1mm spacer. Thanks for all your help.

Hey, glad you solved it! Now all you have to do is juggle spacers on the other wheel to position the cogs in the same place and you won't have to mess with cable-tension at all when swapping wheels. :)

Hey, glad you solved it! Now all you have to do is juggle spacers on the other wheel to position the cogs in the same place and you won't have to mess with cable-tension at all when swapping wheels. :)

already did :) Got another 1mm spacer for the training wheels and now both wheels have the exact configurations when it comes to spacing. Swapping wheels is a breeze now.