Mountain Biking - How to make my bike more effecient?

I'm running a Rockhopper Pro right now.

What are some ways to make it more effecient? I'm not a weight weenie or anything, just wondering ways to make my pedaling count for more.


Thanks.

If you're happy enough with the "engine" then I'd next look at the wheels. This includes the rims, hubs, tubes (if you have them) and tyres. Losing weight there will make a world of difference in ride quality and performance... especially further out from the hub.

Do you have a specific set to look at in mind?


Whats the lightest wheelset available?

Do you have a specific set to look at in mind?


Whats the lightest wheelset available?

Since you're posting in the mountain biking forum, I assume we're talking about an MTB here and that you will want to take it offroad. The question becomes, what type of riding you do or want to do. The lightest most efficient wheelset you can buy that will work with your bike may not work for your style of riding. So I guess you need to expound upon that more before we can make any recommendations. Also, what's your budget and what do you currently have on your bike? Describe your current bike.

Another thing I didn't mention but is a really cheap way to gain efficiency is to change your riding position. Now of course this also depends on your style of riding. One way to improve efficiency with position change is to simply go out and experiment. Remember to only change one variable at a time. Another way would be to go to a knowledgable bike shop and have them do a professional fitting. They may charge a little bit for this... I've heard $25 as reasonable.

Its a stock y2k Rockhopper Pro (except for front brake).. I don't have it with me, its in the shop and I can't find any spec sheets for it.


I ride XC. I'm 200 pounds and don't hesitate to take a hard descent if theres on on a trail, but I don't DH or heavy free-riding.

My riding style is set up in the traditional 'most-effecient' fasion, with legs extended almost fully with heel on the pedal sitting on seat. I'll talk to the bike shop about fitting me though. Thanks.

i run sun ringle ds-2 and the rear is 1100grams,the front 900 grams (approx) including disc hubs.i am 200+ and mostly xc ride and these have done very well for me. I aggressively xc ride(jumps,roots,rocks,mud ,etc.)hope that helps.got them MAJOR cheap at jenson USA.i ride with the ball of my foot just in front of center of pedal kinda over the front of the pedal,and my leg almost straight but not quite.also i push back as well as down to get more pedal stroke.it takes practice but it works and makes me use more muscles and helps keep cadence at about 60 rpm without shock-bob on climbs

Thanks iam

call me tas,its a nickname i picked up in high school due to my driving habits and a tendency to make my automobiles do circles and my destructive style has kinda just stuck around all these years plus im kinda dumpy in the middle like the tas too and wreak havoc eveywhere i go

skinny short legs too!!!

Clipless pedals! Also lighter/less agressive tires.

I've got clipless already.




So can anyone point me to a good wheelset?

i use bmx platforms.and how much do you want to/can you spend on your wheelset?i got mine for under $100 including s&h for ds-2 rims,14gauge triple cross spokes(36),xt disc hubs at Jenson USA am happy with how they hold up

The first and best place to save weight and make your bike more efficient is in rolling mass. Save weight there and it will be noticed most. But with your weight you don't want to just go out and buy a super light wheelset. You'll destroy them in short order. You might think about upgrading your fork as a starting point. This will help keep the tire planted to the ground and save some weight at the same time. Not to mention you'll gain pedaling efficiency, because you will not bob around as much.

I would look at Mavic Crossmax SLs or Sun-Ringle RPMs. Depending on how finesse you are and what type of terrain, I might suggest the RPM XXLs which use the Rhyno rims. They're heavier than the RPM and RPM Lites but they can take more abuse. I'm using the Sun-Ringle 0 Degrees XC rims with XTR hubs and DT Comp spokes on my MTB and they're the same rims used by the RPM wheelsets. They're pretty light and roll really nice. I don't generally do any major jumps but I sometimes will do up to 5 foot drops with them. The Crossmax SLs are absolutely top-notch XC wheels and they're strong enough as long as you're not hucking or doing massive drops. The Crossmax wheels are also tubeless compatible. When it comes time to replace my rims, I think I'm moving to the Crossmax wheelsets.

The most effective, and also the cheapest upgrade is your rubber. Get lighter weight tyres and inner tubes.
Any other upgrade worth doing will cost serious $$$

Even cheaper is going to toe clips and straps. I have a set of toe clips and straps(kind of a frankenstien mix-match)on my commuter bike, cost me $6

I'm running a Rockhopper Pro right now.

What are some ways to make it more effecient? I'm not a weight weenie or anything, just wondering ways to make my pedaling count for more.


Thanks.


Any new Bike takes some sorting,Tyre pressures, riding position, suspension settings, pedalling cadence etc. Saddle height, Knee to pedal position is very important, Body position will also come into it. Sort it to be comfortable initially, but if it is speed that is required, look at the racing posture to get that long body length. If it is handling, look at a more upright position, possible with riser bars. Wheels and tyres are just as important, better quality wheel are on the cards, but as a mimum go for a hand built wheel from a good builder. Take their advice on what to get after discussing the type of riding you do. Big fat tyres are slow, go for 1.95 as your maximum width, and in a tyre of your choice that is suitable for your type of riding.
I hate new bikes, it generrally takes about 3 months to sort the buggers, and generrally a lot of money to go with it.

Another way to make the bike work better is to make your body work better. Eat right, ride a lot, master pedaling techniques. Then strat working on equipment.

Just for the record I've had the bike about a year now. I've actually been regestered here quite some while.


I'm already very proficient with peddling, my positioning, training, diet, etc etc. So now is time to get my equipment up.

Just for the record I've had the bike about a year now. I've actually been regestered here quite some while.


I'm already very proficient with peddling, my positioning, training, diet, etc etc. So now is time to get my equipment up.

My friends rockhopper weighs in at maybe 24 pounds? his wheel set is a pair of Mavric 221 laced to Shimano 575 and 475 (deore or Lx level). And its light!..

Other then that you can upgrade the small things like stem, handlebar, and seatpost ot things from Easton. THey make light components!

The biggest improvement I made to my ride was switching to Bontrager Race Lite wheels. They're really light and very strong...I IMMEDIATELY noticed a difference...

As far as efficiency, clipless pedals, good body position, and proper tires are the obvious choices for any condition...

Depending on where/how ya ride, look at your drivetrain...cranks/gears/cassette

Just for the record I've had the bike about a year now. I've actually been regestered here quite some while.


I'm already very proficient with peddling, my positioning, training, diet, etc etc. So now is time to get my equipment up.

Yeah...haven't seen you in a while, Welcome back. Easiest place to feel the upgrade is wheels and tires (more specifically good tires) At least thats where I notice it.

After wheels and tires, and without knowing the specific components on your bike, generally I would replace your "House Brand" or "generic" components. Things like your seatpost (if it's generic), and your seat. Your stem and handlebars are also generally pretty heavy as generic items. Cranks and especially bottom brackets as "House Brand" stuff are considerable heavier.

Specialized usually has two or three levels of "House Brand" stuff. Their upper end stuff is VERY good, so you may not have to change ANY of these items I've mentioned.

The VERY first thing I would do is change the tires. It'll make SUCH a difference. Then wheels, then cranks/bb, then probably the stem/handlebar combo or the seatpost/seat combo.

L8R