Bicycle Mechanics - Removing front derailleur

I commute to work on my 1999 Schwinn Mesa. Since I started using that bike for commuting I have not used my smaller two chainrings (22/32/44) I have been only using the largest one. My rear cassette is a 7 speed 11-28.

I was thinking of just going ahead and removing the front derailleur since it never gets used and maybe just clean the bike up a little bit. I guess my biggest thing is that probably as soon as I remove it I will probably need it. :rolleyes:

Anyone else do this? Any problems that may occur if I remove the front derailleur? Or is this just plain stupid and leave it on?

Thanks for any responses!

your chain line should be straight.
#1 on a triple you should be mid ring on the spider. Try to fit the 44 to the mid chainring bolts. (you should be able to do without removing the pedal.)

I run a mtb 7 rear 1 front, i only have space to do 39 on my mid, I believe you can get smaller diameter rings w\ same teeth count.

The idea is that the front ring during the majority of riding should fall onto the 4th rear cog. If you run usually to the 3rd or 5th as your average, adjust the front tooth count say 2-4 t.

This MY LOGIC not law. I run on the 2nd-3rd so am going to a 38-40.
If you are only on the 3 smallest rear cogs only (no cross chaining) I guess outer mount whould be o.k.

The derailler tension will keep the chain on, bashguards or chainring covers are perhaps a good idea.

I like the lack of rattle etc when jumping curbs. And I have an ovaled seat tube where it meats the bb, looks cooler and clean.

With the shifter and derailler gone, s'bit of weight-1-2 lbs?
I was going to put the granny back on some day and just hand drop the chain if I'm on the mountain base.

O.k again....If you run average to the larger diameter cogs you can decrease the front chainring count and poss mount mid spider.

Deraileur tension alone will not keep the chain on. You need bash guards or the front mech to act as a chain guide. You dont need a cable or shifter of course.
Runing a 1x7 is quite sensible is less hilly areas. You really notice the lighter chainset. I prefer to put the ring in the outer position, and use the bottom bracket spindle length to move the whole chainset inboard. You get a good chainline, and the distance between your pedals (called the Q factor) is smaller. Its more aerodynamic and usually more comfortable.
Single chainrings (up to 1x10 gears) are popular with couriers in London. They dont all ride singlespeed bikes.

Thanks folks, I am still on the fence. I will probably take it off and try it out to see how it goes for awhile. The worse thing that can happen is I have to put it back on.

I will probably just keep the same crank on there for right now.

Thanks for the advice guys!