Bicycle Mechanics - wheel build question

I have a frame spaced at 135 and I have soome 135 spaced hubs, do I need to dish the weel at all when I build it?

Depending on the type of rear hub you have, 99% of the time yes, dishing is required.

single speed van dessel hub. country road bob frame.

You should be able to tell simply by looking at or measuring the hub. If the centerpoint between the hub flanges is right smack in the middle of the axle, no dishing is required. If your hub is a SS/flip flop hub, chances are dishing is not required. For instance, all front hubs require no dishing because the hub centerpoint falls right in the middle of its axle.

thats what i was thinking. thankyou

All wheels need to be dished, front or back.

All wheels need to be dished, front or back.technically, yes.....

I have a frame spaced at 135 and I have soome 135 spaced hubs, do I need to dish the weel at all when I build it?

If you're building a wheel with a 9-speed cassette, not only will you have to dish the wheel, but the build will likely go better if the drive side spokes are about 1mm shorter than the non-drive side spokes.

Is dishing the fact that your spokes leave the hub flange at an angle, or that each side has a different angle. I thought the latter.
For a SS on a 135, you shold be able to use a dishless pattern, by centering the hub on the axle.

A wheel that is in proper dish is centered in the frame or the forks. That is assuming the drop outs and frame are in correct alignment. The angle of the spokes is a moot point regarding this issue. The angle is determined by the C/F number ( Center to flange number and the drop out dimensions. I.E. the spoke angle for a 135 mm hub will be higher than the angle for a hub with a 130mm spacing. And then if you are using offset spoking like Rithchey rims, or disk hubs, the angle can be all over the place. The angle will also be affected by how big the rim is.

As has been said (in slightly different words), this is a question of whether the hub flanges are centered relative to the axle nuts. But it's a moot question anyway. What you need to be concerned with is centering the rim relative to the axle nuts. This applies to front wheels as well. When you build a wheel up from scratch, even if it's a symmetrical wheel such as a front wheel or a flip-flop, you can't guess the centering just by tensioning the spokes symmetrically. You need a rim-centering gauge (sometimes called a "dishing" gauge, but "centering" is a more meaningful term) to be certain that the rim is centered between the axle nuts.

There is a poor-man's alternative. Take the skewer out of the hub, and set the built wheel on one end of the axle on the floor. Stack two even sets of books (or 2x4s or whatever) a little higher than the height the rim sits, so the end of the axle doesn't quite touch the floor. Use some other small object as a "gauge" to measure the distance from the axle nut to the floor. Flip the wheel over. If the distance from the other axle nut to the floor is the same as before you flipped the wheel, your rim is centered. If not, you need to tighten and loosen every spoke, alternately, to re-center it. You'll have to true it as you go along, of course.

Although I use a dishing tool, another poor-man's method of assuring centered rims is to frequently flip the wheel in the truing stand while tensioning the spokes and watch the position of the rim. After tensioning/truing, if there's no lateral deviation, your rim is 'dished' or centered. I've used this method for several wheel builds until I finally got a dishing tool.

George