Bicycle Mechanics - De-greasing chain.. Simple green required?

Hey guys.. I'm thinking of de-greasing my chain and cassette.

I have read that you guys suggest using something called "Simple Green". Is this required, or can I just use any Dish De-greaser?

Thanks for your input.

Simple Green is cheap, effective, and relatively environmentally friendly. It should be available at any K-mart, Wal Mart, etc.

Just throw the chain in your dishwasher, it will come out CLEAN.

Any number of products will get the job done. Anything from hot soapy water to kerosene will do the trick. I like hot soapy water (Dawn dish liquid).

Just throw the chain in your dishwasher, it will come out CLEAN.

If you do this, be sure to place it in a basket so you don't end up with a chain wrapped around the sprayer arms or sitting in the bottom being cooked by the drying element. Also, I'd avoid using powdered detergent since it may not end up dissolving properly and particles can get stuck inside your links.

Personally, I stick the chain in a disposable (only I don't throw it away) tupperware container (make sure the wife or significant other doesn't have designs on this bowl for use in storing their favourite pasta salad) along with some Simple Green and leave it sitting on top of my washing machine or dryer during a cycle in order to let the vibration shake stuff loose. Then I rinse the chain off (very important since Simple Green is a detergent based cleaner), wipe it down with a rag and let it dry for a half hour to an hour. I then remount the chain and lube.

Simple Green is cheap, effective, and relatively environmentally friendly. It should be available at any K-mart, Wal Mart, etc.

I got a big jug of the stuff at Home Depot for $5.

my favourite mechanic told me to be sure to let your chain air dry overnight after rinsing or using compressed air. He said if any water is left on the chain before you lube it will negate some of the otherwise goodness of chain cleaning. jeff

Just throw the chain in your dishwasher, it will come out CLEAN.

ONLY do this if you are single. Or, want to become that way. :eek:


I use a Park chain cleaner tool with Simple Green. The chain stays on the bike.

Hey guys.. I'm thinking of de-greasing my chain and cassette.

I have read that you guys suggest using something called "Simple Green". Is this required, or can I just use any Dish De-greaser?

Thanks for your input.

There are chain cleaning "Tools" or devices, that will clean your chain. The actual cleaner solution is up to you, but in the UK I use "Muck Off". a green detergent that is marvellous. Muck Off is also a general bike cleaner so is pretty usefull. The only thing to remember is to wash the cleaner off with copious amount of water, and then to use a water dispellant spray (Light oil) to get rid of the surplus water. At the same time spray any steel parts on the bike to stop corrosion, and wipe off with the ubiquitous oily rag. You can then upset the wife again by washing all the old rags in the washing machine.

my favourite mechanic told me to be sure to let your chain air dry overnight after rinsing or using compressed air. He said if any water is left on the chain before you lube it will negate some of the otherwise goodness of chain cleaning. jeff

Heck, just put the chain in an old tube sock, tie a not in the open end, and throw it in the dryer for thirty minutes. It makes a great noise too. :D

I find Simply Green works on most grease and grim... Not on the really deeply penetrated stuff that gets into the casette/pullies.
For that I like the bike "Citrus Cleaner', sold exclusively in bike stores... Aeresol can..The dark grim just drops off in dark droplets.
Simply Green works great everywhere else... For getting deep into the chain, I use a Chain Cleaner with a designated degreaser. Simply Green does a great job, but does not penetrate that well to get into the deep creavices.

Worthy of note:

Stock Campy and Shimano chains are not designed to be removed from the bike (more than once). That's to say, they master links don't hold up well to being removed and re-inserted. While I have not tested this, I don't recommend taking chances with the part of your bike that has the most moving pieces. Besides, you can get a great aftermarket chain on the cheap. These proprietary chains also require a special tool to remove the master link. If you have such a chain, the Park chain cleaner or other such on-the-bike chain cleaning device with Simple Green or some other degreaser is probably your best bet. There are other degreasers out there, but I try to be environmentally conscientious where I can.

If you have an aftermarket chain such as a Wipperman, SRAM, or IRD, they not only have links that facilitate removal of the chain, but they are very easy to remove from and put back on the bike and do not require a special tool to do so. Then, some of the other off-the-bike chain cleaning methods mentioned in this thread are viable.

Cheers,

Ethan

Besides, you can get a great aftermarket chain on the cheap. These proprietary chains also require a special tool to remove the master link. If you have such a chain, the Park chain cleaner or other such on-the-bike chain cleaning device with Simple Green or some other degreaser is probably your best bet. There are other degreasers out there, but I try to be environmentally conscientious where I can.

If you have an aftermarket chain such as a Wipperman, SRAM, or IRD, they not only have links that facilitate removal of the chain, but they are very easy to remove from and put back on the bike and do not require a special tool to do so. Then, some of the other off-the-bike chain cleaning methods mentioned in this thread are viable.

Another option is to buy a PowerLink or conneX-link and replace one of the links on your Shimano or Campy chain with it. Then you can remove and reinstall at will. Personally, I'm not a big fan of Shimano chains (never tried Campy) so I generally opt for SRAM and just started using Wipperman.

These proprietary chains also require a special tool to remove the master link. That seems self-defeating. I thought the whole point of a master link was that you could "break" the chain without any tool. If you can't, why not just use a standard chain tool any old place on the chain?

That seems self-defeating. I thought the whole point of a master link was that you could "break" the chain without any tool. If you can't, why not just use a standard chain tool any old place on the chain?

There's a difference between a master link and something like a PowerLink. The master link is used to rejoin the chain but may or may not require special tools or special (or even new) pins. The point the previous poster was trying to make I think was that you can't just simply break and rejoin today's chains just anywhere. With a lot of modern chains, the process of removing or inserting a pin can damage both the pin and sideplate unless you do it at the master link.

The point the previous poster was trying to make I think was that you can't just simply break and rejoin today's chains just anywhere. With a lot of modern chains, the process of removing or inserting a pin can damage both the pin and sideplate unless you do it at the master link. Ahh, that's the part I didn't know. Another loss of serviceability for the sake of "technological advancement".

That seems self-defeating. I thought the whole point of a master link was that you could "break" the chain without any tool. If you can't, why not just use a standard chain tool any old place on the chain?

Shimano chains have no master link. You can use a chain tool to break the chain at any pin except where a replacement pin has already been installed. You can, however, replace a Shimano link with an SRAM powerlink and not have to deal with replacement pins.

3,000 miles is all I expect to get out of a chain..Don't want the inconvenience on the way to work, if I can help it..Expect all parts to be top notch, reliable. So what is the thing about replacement links and cleaning. 3,000 miles...Less than half a year...I can get the chain adequately clean with my "Chain Mate Scrubber." Why risk weakening the chain.?
Is not a chain without the master link stronger? Since I do not plan on taking it off, why bother with the link?