Bicycle Mechanics - Long Haul Trucker Build List

I am about to order the following build list and was hoping that some experienced hands could look over it to check that all the parts are compatible with each other and the LHT frame. Suggestions and recommendations are most welcome. I want to keep the number of gears to 14 and will used the shifters in friction mode. I would prefer to use Nitto Tall Technomic stem that Velo Orange sell (see http://www.velo-orange.com/nitest.html ) but I'm not sure if that is possible.
Here's the list.
BUILD LIST
Surly Long Haul Trucker Frameset 2009 56.0 cm (Olive)
(see http://www.surlybikes.com/longhaul.html for frame specs)
MKS Sylvan Touring Pedals
Sugino Alpina2 Road Crankset 110mm (2x10) 170mm silver
Shimano BB-UN54 Bottom Bracket English 68 x 113mm
Shimano FD-6600 Ultegra SL Double Front Derailleur 28.6/31.8 Clamp
Shimano RD-6600 Ultegra Rear Derailleur GS Long Cage
Shimano 7speed Cassette 13-28T
Shimano BS77 Shift Levers 2/3 x 9
Paul Components Thumbies Fits 26.0 Road Bars
Shimano HG-53 Chain
Jagwire Racer Road Brake & Derailleur Cable & Housing Complete Set Black
Nitto North Albatross Road Bar 25.4 Silver Alloy
PS Starnut 1 1/8 Inch
Velo Orange 70mm Stem http://yhst-84224226242177.stores.yahoo.net/vostem.html
Velo Orange Threadless Stem adapter http://yhst-84224226242177.stores.yahoo.net/vothstad.html
Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brake
Tektro RT354 Brake Levers
Brake hanger - Wheels Mfg Extra Wide Straddle Carrier
Fizik Under Tape Gel Pads Set of 4
Brooks Honey Leather Bar Tape
Cane Creek Thudbuster 3G ST Seatpost 27.2 x 353mm
Brooks B67 Pre-Aged Saddle
Honjo 45mm Hammered Fenders
Surly Nice Rear Rack Silver
Tires 700c x 35mm
Wheelsets not chosen yet...

If there is anything that seems out of whack please let me know.
Thanks...

Per the Surly web site the LHT uses a threadless fork, 1 1/8". The Nitto Technomic is for 1" threaded headsets so will not work.

The threadless stem adapter is to allow using a threadless stem with a threaded fork, useless for you. The VO stem you list should work w/o any adapter.

I'm confused about your proposals for the stem. The LHT comes with a 1 1/8" threadless fork. You say you want to use a Nitto Technomic, which is a threaded 1" stem, but the links you provide on the build list are for a threaded to threadless adapter (opposite of what you would need for the Technomic stem) and a threadless stem, which doesn't make sense. I advise keeping it simple and using a 1 1/8" threadless stem, in silver if that's what you want. The stem you link to has a 26.0 clamp diameter, the handlebar on your list has a 25.4mm clamp area.

Here's a pic of my LHT with a silver threadless stem, spacers, and handlebar.

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp226/wellbiked/DSC02002.jpg

Thanks for the advice. The VO stem comes in lengths ranging from 70mm to 120mm. I'm guessing that because of the nature of the Albatross Handlebars that I should go with the 120mm stem. What is your view on this?
I'm not sure what I need for a headset. Velo Orange also sell a 1-1/8" threadless headset which I guess will work ( http://yhst-84224226242177.stores.yahoo.net/grcru1thhe.html ). What else will I need to install this headset and fork (spacers,bearings...)?

As an alternative to this setup I read that the Nitto Periscopa works well with the Albatross bars but is this also for a 1" threadset? See http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4054&currency=USD

Sounds like it will be a great bike and a fun project. When choosing wheels remember:

"Frame sizes: 42-54cm accommodate 26" wheels
56-62cm accommodate 700c wheels "

I've seen a few folks miss this on Surly's website!

A sprung B67 AND a Thudbuster? I'd just use one, and prob the Brooks.

You also list some 10 speed parts and a 7 speed rear cassette. If you are going to tour, especially in mountains, you might want a lower bailout gear.
If you use a 9 speed cassette with a 34T bailout gear, it will be a lot
gentler on the knees. If that's going too far, you might consider the Harris Century Special, which is a 9 speed with a 30T bailout. I think it may also fit the frame better.
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/k7.html#9

On to the bars. While bars are a matter of taste, you'll be sitting pretty upright with those. How tall are you? You might want to consider going a size up to avoid being too upright. That bar feels quite heavy when you pick them up.
If you poke around, you should be able to find something in aluminum.
You will want grips for them, not bar tape. I think the Brooks Leather bar wrap is
very cool looking, but perhaps not as practical as most others and quite expensive.
If you wind up going with drop bars, my favorite (and expensive) bar tape is Cinelli Gel.

Just out of curiousity, what do you have against drop bars?

I was confused on the stem. I had been reading another forum post that was discussing the use of a quill with a LHT using an adapter so I think I've misinterpreted what was posted. I'll drop the idea of using a quill. I really like your bike. Can you tell me what stem, headset, seat post and derailleurs are you using? You've done a really nice job with the look.
Thanks for your input...

I was confused on the stem. I had been reading another forum post that was discussing the use of a quill with a LHT using an adapter so I think I've misinterpreted what was posted. I'll drop the idea of using a quill. I really like your bike. Can you tell me what stem, headset, seat post and derailleurs are you using? You've done a really nice job with the look.
Thanks for your input...

One thing about silver, threadless stems: they aren't very popular, so the selection is somewhat limited. My handlebars are Nitto with a 25.4mm clamp area, and I finally found a sliver threadless stem with a good amount of rise with the 25.4mm clamp diameter; it's an Origin8 (pronounced originate), which is sort of a generic house brand of a big bike accessories wholesaler, J and B Importers.

Seatposts are another story in silver, since the size is 27.2mm, there are lots of options. I went with a Nitto post, mostly because I like their stuff, great overall quality, and it's kind of old school, which goes with the theme of the bike.

I went with a Ritchey WCS headset, which is Ritchey's top line headset. The stock LHT comes with a Ritchey headset also, but one of the lower models.

The drivetrain on my LHT consists of Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters, nine speed SRAM cassette (11 x 32), Sugino XD crankset (46/34/24), Tiagra triple front derailleur, XT rear derailleur (not a rapid rise model), and a SRAM nine speed chain.

I agree, I may drop the Thudbuster. I just wanted to ensure comfort with the more upright posture. The bike path I cycle on to work has many tree roots and it goes on for a number of miles... For now I won't need the bailout gear as my commute is fairly flat.

The handle bar part is causing the most indecision for me. I am primarily commuting so I would prefer a more upright posture. I have nothing against drops but I know from past experience that I would rarely use the lower part of the handlebar but I will admit it is nice to have the option. If I could find a wide drop bar and put all the controls on the upper part then I would consider this. I would also like the bar to have a good rise to make my posture more upright as shown on 'well biked''s photo.

So if you have suggestions on a drop bar, stem, brake levers and shifters that would accomplish this it would be most appreciated.

Please use the "reply with quote" feature so we can tell who you are responding to.:)

Aluminum
http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full/0000/1062/16-127_site_Alba_al_topview.jpg

Soba, light, and has some seriously wide sizes
http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full/0000/0649/16-168b.jpg

http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/handlebars_stems_and_tape?page=all#product=none

If I could make one suggestion:
Low-profile cantilevers can be a pain to set up, and while some claim to get gobs of stopping power from them, I've never used a low-profile cantilever that got better stopping performance than a dual-pivot caliper or a good set of V-brakes.

If you're not using STI shifters, I might recommend some Tektro V-brakes and Tektro's RL520 long-pull lever. The levers came out pretty recently, and they're better than travel agents or DiaCompe's old V-brake levers. I've got a pair and love them.

Just my 2 cents.

One thing about silver, threadless stems: they aren't very popular, so the selection is somewhat limited. My handlebars are Nitto with a 25.4mm clamp area, and I finally found a sliver threadless stem with a good amount of rise with the 25.4mm clamp diameter; it's an Origin8 (pronounced originate), which is sort of a generic house brand of a big bike accessories wholesaler, J and B Importers.

Seatposts are another story in silver, since the size is 27.2mm, there are lots of options. I went with a Nitto post, mostly because I like their stuff, great overall quality, and it's kind of old school, which goes with the theme of the bike.

I went with a Ritchey WCS headset, which is Ritchey's top line headset. The stock LHT comes with a Ritchey headset also, but one of the lower models.

The drivetrain on my LHT consists of Dura Ace 9 speed bar end shifters, nine speed SRAM cassette (11 x 32), Sugino XD crankset (46/34/24), Tiagra triple front derailleur, XT rear derailleur (not a rapid rise model), and a SRAM nine speed chain.


I like the stem and found it for sale at www.bikeworldusa.us . Do you remember what length and rise the stem has. The stem I'm looking at is 110mm and a 17 deg rise.

If I could make one suggestion:
Low-profile cantilevers can be a pain to set up, and while some claim to get gobs of stopping power from them, I've never used a low-profile cantilever that got better stopping performance than a dual-pivot caliper or a good set of V-brakes.

If you're not using STI shifters, I might recommend some Tektro V-brakes and Tektro's RL520 long-pull lever. The levers came out pretty recently, and they're better than travel agents or DiaCompe's old V-brake levers. I've got a pair and love them.

Just my 2 cents.

These are pretty good.
http://www.interlocracing.com/brakecafam_straighton.gif
http://www.interlocracing.com/brake_canti.html

A couple of items jumped out at me too:

Why a 7-speed cassette? Almost all wheelsets and hubs currently available take 8/9/10-speed cassettes so why not use at least 9-speed? Shimano 9-speed cassettes are available with up to 32T cogs to get low gearing. 7-speed is really obsolete and the choices are getting more limited.

The Ultegra rear derailleur is rated for a 27T maximum large cog and usually works with a 28 or 30T. However, any of Shimano's MTB rear derailleurs will accept a 32 or 34T cog so why not use one?

Reconsider the pedal choice. Have you any experience with clipless pedals? If not, I highly recommend you familiarize yourself with them. Shimano, Crank Brothers, etc., MTB pedals and recessed sole shoes are both walkable and much more efficient for riding.

Sugino Alpina2 Road Crankset 110mm (2x10) 170mm silver
Shimano BB-UN54 Bottom Bracket English 68 x 113mm
Shimano 7speed Cassette 13-28T
Shimano BS77 Shift Levers 2/3 x 9
PS Starnut 1 1/8 Inch

A few comments on the components above.

Crankset: I couldn't find any detailed info on that crankset but 113mm bottom brackets are typically used for triple crankset applications. I believe the LHT has 135mm rear spacing though so it might need the longer BB.

Shifters/cassette: Since you have no issue with buying 9 speed shifters (often times, cost of shifters is a reason to not have more speeds) there really no reason to use a 7 speed cassette, especially since using one on a modern set of wheels will require a spacer to make it fit. 9 speed cassettes (especially MTB versions) are really cheap and so are 9 speed chains (which you'll need anyway to use with that 9/10 speed crankset). Remeber that if you do use a wide range MTB cassette, you'll need a MTB rear derailler instead of that Ultegra model. (Shameless plug: I have a brand new XT rear derailler that would work great with your double crank and a MTB cassette).

Starnut: Every headset I've ever purchased has come with a starnut so purchasing one seperately is likely not necessary.

A couple of items jumped out at me too:

Why a 7-speed cassette? Almost all wheelsets and hubs currently available take 8/9/10-speed cassettes so why not use at least 9-speed? Shimano 9-speed cassettes are available with up to 32T cogs to get low gearing. 7-speed is really obsolete and the choices are getting more limited.

The Ultegra rear derailleur is rated for a 27T maximum large cog and usually works with a 28 or 30T. However, any of Shimano's MTB rear derailleurs will accept a 32 or 34T cog so why not use one?

Reconsider the pedal choice. Have you any experience with clipless pedals? If not, I highly recommend you familiarize yourself with them. Shimano, Crank Brothers, etc., MTB pedals and recessed sole shoes are both walkable and much more efficient for riding.

These are some confusing choices the OP has made, for sure.

He is putting 9 sp. shifters and a 7 sp. casette - the indexing on the shifters will not line up at all...

And I totally agree that an XT derailleur (same quality as Ultegra) is a better choice and will allow flexibility in future set up.

These are pretty good.
http://www.interlocracing.com/brakecafam_straighton.gif
http://www.interlocracing.com/brake_canti.html

Thanks for the brake suggestion. I've also done some more reading on the Noodle/Soba handlebars and am swaying towards ditching the Albatross and going with a 48cm Noodle. I would like to add brake controls to the flat part of the handlebars. Does anyone have suggestions for a traditional looking silver brake lever?

A couple of items jumped out at me too:

Why a 7-speed cassette? Almost all wheelsets and hubs currently available take 8/9/10-speed cassettes so why not use at least 9-speed? Shimano 9-speed cassettes are available with up to 32T cogs to get low gearing. 7-speed is really obsolete and the choices are getting more limited.

The Ultegra rear derailleur is rated for a 27T maximum large cog and usually works with a 28 or 30T. However, any of Shimano's MTB rear derailleurs will accept a 32 or 34T cog so why not use one?

Reconsider the pedal choice. Have you any experience with clipless pedals? If not, I highly recommend you familiarize yourself with them. Shimano, Crank Brothers, etc., MTB pedals and recessed sole shoes are both walkable and much more efficient for riding.

With the 7 speed I was trying to minimize the number of gears as my commute is primarily flat. But based upon the feedback I'm receiving I guess it makes sense to go with an 8 or 9 speed cassette but I will stick with the double chainring.
I don't know much about XT derailleurs but would a RD-M772 XT work? Or is there another that you can recommend?
Thanks for the pedal advice. I'll look into this further.

A few comments on the components above.

Crankset: I couldn't find any detailed info on that crankset but 113mm bottom brackets are typically used for triple crankset applications. I believe the LHT has 135mm rear spacing though so it might need the longer BB.

Shifters/cassette: Since you have no issue with buying 9 speed shifters (often times, cost of shifters is a reason to not have more speeds) there really no reason to use a 7 speed cassette, especially since using one on a modern set of wheels will require a spacer to make it fit. 9 speed cassettes (especially MTB versions) are really cheap and so are 9 speed chains (which you'll need anyway to use with that 9/10 speed crankset). Remeber that if you do use a wide range MTB cassette, you'll need a MTB rear derailler instead of that Ultegra model. (Shameless plug: I have a brand new XT rear derailler that would work great with your double crank and a MTB cassette).

Starnut: Every headset I've ever purchased has come with a starnut so purchasing one seperately is likely not necessary.


I'm not sure on the required bottom bracket dimensions for the frame but the crankset is listed at the following link.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=16826

Tell me more about your XT rear derailleur?

I'm not sure on the required bottom bracket dimensions for the frame but the crankset is listed at the following link.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=16826

Tell me more about your XT rear derailleur?

I checked out the crankset at Universal too and while they normally list BB sizes with their cranks, they do not for that model. Sugino's website isn't any help either. I'd contact Universal about it and see what they say to use. I'd confirm with Surly too.

I apologize for misquoting what derailler I have. I actually have a Deore LX M581 (top normal/conventional design) medium cage rear derailler which I mistakenly bought for my new commuter. I realized later that I needed a long cage and was looking to buy an XT model but got a great deal on an XTR instead. Anyway, the derailler has only been bolted to the frame then removed. I don't think I have the box but I do have the installation instructions that came with it. Here's the long cage model for your reference: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Deore-RD-M581-SGS-Long-Derailleur/dp/B0011ZEIWO

I'd part with it for $40 including shipping.

I checked out the crankset at Universal too and while they normally list BB sizes with their cranks, they do not for that model. Sugino's website isn't any help either. I'd contact Universal about it and see what they say to use. I'd confirm with Surly too.

I apologize for misquoting what derailler I have. I actually have a Deore LX M581 (top normal/conventional design) medium cage rear derailler which I mistakenly bought for my new commuter. I realized later that I needed a long cage and was looking to buy an XT model but got a great deal on an XTR instead. Anyway, the derailler has only been bolted to the frame then removed. I don't think I have the box but I do have the installation instructions that came with it. Here's the long cage model for your reference: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Deore-RD-M581-SGS-Long-Derailleur/dp/B0011ZEIWO

I'd part with it for $40 including shipping.

Let me think about the derailleur. I'll take it into consideration when I finalize the build. Thanks for your advice so far.

Do you remember what length and rise the stem has. The stem I'm looking at is 110mm and a 17 deg rise.

The stem on my LHT is a 90mm with 17 degrees of rise. Stem lengths are typically somewhat proportional to the size of the frame.

And speaking of frame sizes: you may already know this, but the LHT's are sized in such a way that you may want one size smaller than you would normally want in a road bike frame. At least this is true of the smaller frame sizes. As an example, I'm 5'8", and normally ride a 54cm road frame (or pretty close). But with the Surly LHT, I ride a 52cm. The size is measured center of bottom bracket to top of top tube on the LHT. But on the 52cm LHT frame, the effective top tube, measured center of seat tube to center of head tube, is exactly 54cm. So keep this in mind in regard to sizing. And as already mentioned in the thread, frame sizes 54cm and smaller use 26" wheels, 56cm and above use 700c.

For wheels, mine are XT hubs laced to Velocity Aeroheat rims (a great touring rim for 26ers, btw). 36 spokes per wheel, double butted 14/15/14. The Aeroheat rim is the same rim as the 700c Velocity Dyad rim, with the only difference being that the Aeroheat is 26."

Cane Creek's Drop V Brake Levers work great with v-brakes also and offer alternative ergonomics to the Tektro RL520.

Thanks for the brake suggestion. I've also done some more reading on the Noodle/Soba handlebars and am swaying towards ditching the Albatross and going with a 48cm Noodle. I would like to add brake controls to the flat part of the handlebars. Does anyone have suggestions for a traditional looking silver brake lever?

Bar end shifters are the usual choice.
http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full/0000/1597/17-049_bes.jpg
I have used them and like them.


http://www.paulcomp.com/roadthumbie.jpg
Paul's Thumbies, don't know how well they work.

Cane Creek's Drop V Brake Levers work great with v-brakes also and offer alternative ergonomics to the Tektro RL520.

I'm not sure if I could get V-brakes to fit around 45mm fenders?

I have v-brakes set up with the Planet Bike Hardcore 45mm Hybrid fenders on several bikes, not sure about the ones you've choosen.

One thought about the entire build is that it sounds like you're planning on ordering the parts online, building it yourself? And thats great, but if you are really concerned about compatability of parts you could consider ordering the parts from a good local bike shop. And by good, I mean that if they advise you on parts, and they are not compatable, they will take them back and get you the right ones, no questions asked. This is the policy at the shop I manage and I am sure elsewhere. Also, this time of year when it is slow, if you were to buy the complete parts list & frame from me, I would throw in labor for free to get the business.
Anyways, just a shameless plug for local shops. Couldn't resist.

I've also got V-brakes with 45mm fenders. They work fine.

Regarding the Cane Creek levers: I thought the Cane Creek and Tektro were the same shape, just branded differently. Are you sure you aren't referring to the DiaCompe 287V?

One more general comment about ordering a bike piece by piece online. If you can manage to find most of what you want from the same place (the bulk of the build), they might be able to offer you a discount over and above the standard discount they may offer for a high dollar purchase. I have zero affiliation with www.speedgoat.com (http://www.speedgoat.com) but when I ordered my Gunnar Crosshairs frame from them, they told me to email them my parts list and they would send me a special shopping cart with a special discount. According to them, they can't discount certain parts from some manufacturers, but if they sell a "bike" (even though it's in pieces) they are able to offer a discount. Speedgoat price matched several items for me, gave me the sale price for some items that were going on sale soon, and gave me an extra general discount that applied to everything else, not to mention helping me decide on a frame size, seatpost style, and stem length.

I was all ready to just order everything online without speaking to someone first but I'm very glad I asked as I would have ordered a frame that was one size too big (sounds like Gunnar's are spec'd similarly to the LHT) and spent at least $150 extra on the build.

I've also got V-brakes with 45mm fenders. They work fine.

Regarding the Cane Creek levers: I thought the Cane Creek and Tektro were the same shape, just branded differently. Are you sure you aren't referring to the DiaCompe 287V?


Yeah I was thinking of the DiaCompe's. Thanks

The LHT frame comes with BB shell and headtube already faced which is handy if you're building it up yourself. In this case though, I think I'd want to advise the guy to look for someone to oversee the build however, as he doesn't seem too experienced.

The LHT frame comes with BB shell and headtube already faced which is handy if you're building it up yourself. In this case though, I think I'd want to advise the guy to look for someone to oversee the build however, as he doesn't seem too experienced.

I agree. At least let the shop install the headset and maybe bottom bracket. Even if you're pretty sure of what you're doing, just bring in the completed bike to the shop afterwards for a tune-up. That is unless your shop is horrible, in which case you can find adequate adjustment tips on sheldonbrown.com and park tool's website.

One more general comment about ordering a bike piece by piece online. If you can manage to find most of what you want from the same place (the bulk of the build), they might be able to offer you a discount over and above the standard discount they may offer for a high dollar purchase. I have zero affiliation with www.speedgoat.com (http://www.speedgoat.com) but when I ordered my Gunnar Crosshairs frame from them, they told me to email them my parts list and they would send me a special shopping cart with a special discount. According to them, they can't discount certain parts from some manufacturers, but if they sell a "bike" (even though it's in pieces) they are able to offer a discount. Speedgoat price matched several items for me, gave me the sale price for some items that were going on sale soon, and gave me an extra general discount that applied to everything else, not to mention helping me decide on a frame size, seatpost style, and stem length.

I was all ready to just order everything online without speaking to someone first but I'm very glad I asked as I would have ordered a frame that was one size too big (sounds like Gunnar's are spec'd similarly to the LHT) and spent at least $150 extra on the build.

Thanks for the advice. I had been compiling a list from one online retailer who is giving 15% off on the entire order but I did check out speed goat (after your suggestion) and found them to be very accommodating. So they are looking over my list and will be responding soon. Being a novice, I want to have the luxury of being able to return components if they don't work or I don't like them. I have also been talking with LBS's. I have a friend whose a bike mechanic and he'll be helping with the tricky parts.

Aluminum
http://www.rivbike.com/images/products/full/0000/1062/16-127_site_Alba_al_topview.jpg

So light it floats to the ceiling!

Thanks for the advice. I had been compiling a list from one online retailer who is giving 15% off on the entire order but I did check out speed goat (after your suggestion) and found them to be very accommodating. So they are looking over my list and will be responding soon. Being a novice, I want to have the luxury of being able to return components if they don't work or I don't like them. I have also been talking with LBS's. I have a friend whose a bike mechanic and he'll be helping with the tricky parts.

Good luck with the build! Be sure to post photos.

I've just built up a LHT for a friend and I found myself very impressed by this frame. Over the years I've built many bikes, mostly custom-built quality frames, Mercian, Dawes Galaxies, George Longstaff etc. but the LHT impresses in that it appears to be designed from the very start as a touring frame and not one whose heritage derived from a racing bike. This frame is new to people over here but I would think this is going to appeal to tourers on this side of the pond.
The proud owner tells me that it's supremely comfortable and I can believe him.

I've just built up a LHT for a friend and I found myself very impressed by this frame. Over the years I've built many bikes, mostly custom-built quality frames, Mercian, Dawes Galaxies, George Longstaff etc. but the LHT impresses in that it appears to be designed from the very start as a touring frame and not one whose heritage derived from a racing bike. This frame is new to people over here but I would think this is going to appeal to tourers on this side of the pond.
The proud owner tells me that it's supremely comfortable and I can believe him.

I agree, the LHT is a well thought out frame. I certainly am enjoying mine (pic earlier in the thread). It's nothing fancy, but the quality is very good and the price is also. The frame geometry and purpose of the bike is modeled after the Rivendell Atlantis I believe but with welded construction, powder coat finish, and good ol' 4130 tubing to keep it very affordable (price-wise, it's a contrast to the Atlantis).

I am especially glad they powder coat it, because the one type of frame construction I usually find not very aesthetically pleasing is tig welded steel, but the powder coat on the LHT makes the joints look fairly seamless since the powder coat sort of rounds off the welded areas. The lugged crown fork is a nice touch as well. The handling of the bike is quite different than any bike I've ridden before, and I've been a big fan of touring bikes for a long time. The chainstays are crazy-long.

I've heard others say it can get squirrley unloaded. I hear this and wonder if those who say that have ever actually ridden an LHT. This bike is a lot of things, but believe me, squirrelly it is not. I can do a 45mph descent and the bike is so stable I feel like I could sit up and make a cell phone call. In lower speed situations, the bike handles very slowly. You almost need a spotter up ahead to call out turns so you can begin to turn the bike well in advance (I'm kidding). But seriously, the bike is super stable, handles like the hard core long distance touring bike that it is, and yet is a fun around-town commuter or grocery getter.

One other thing: they didn't forget any braze-ons with the LHT. Eyelets everwhere, and even a couple of spoke holders brazed on the left chainstay. Gotta love it.

Cane Creek's Drop V Brake Levers work great with v-brakes also and offer alternative ergonomics to the Tektro RL520.

I loked at both the Cane Creek Drop Vs and Tektro RL520s. They looked exactly the same to me except for the texture on the CCs covers and the "Cane Creek" embossing. Tektros are half the price, so that's what I'm running with.