Bicycle Mechanics - Headset upgrade

How do I know what to look for- size, style, etc? One of the few stock components left on 200 Trek 2200.

Ooops! That's 2001 Trek 2200. Sorry

Go to your LBS and get a Chris King headset, the best made in the USA. Pricey but well worth it!

How do I know what to look for- size, style, etc? One of the few stock components left on 200 Trek 2200.

there are lots of great headsets you can get.. c.kings are good, but they are too expensive for me..

headsets I've tried and were great!

Cane Creek s-pro -- looks geat!
VP modus 531 (2003) -- very nice, the best I've used! Best Value I think (just $30)
2000 Shimano Ultegra

there are lots of great headsets you can get.. c.kings are good, but they are too expensive for me..

headsets I've tried and were great!

Cane Creek s-pro -- looks geat!
VP modus 531 (2003) -- very nice, the best I've used! Best Value I think (just $30)
2000 Shimano Ultegra

Thanks for the recommendations. Couple more questions - how do I know if this bike uses threaded/threadless, what diameter is needed (1", 1-1/8")? Anyhing else I should know?

A headset is pretty much a headset. There is no real point in changing it just for the sake of it. Unless it is worn out or has rubbish seals and is high maintenance.

If it's threaded the headset will have a nut at the top that threads onto the fork steerer tube. Also the stem will go into the fork steerer.
With thread less the headset will have no nut and the stem will be resting ontop of the headset. The stem will also be clamped onto the steerer tube.

A headset is pretty much a headset. There is no real point in changing it just for the sake of it. Unless it is worn out or has rubbish seals and is high maintenance.

If it's threaded the headset will have a nut at the top that threads onto the fork steerer tube. Also the stem will go into the fork steerer.
With thread less the headset will have no nut and the stem will be resting ontop of the headset. The stem will also be clamped onto the steerer tube.

Thanks. You hit the nail on the "headset" for me. My headset is threaded and my options are now very limited. In fact, I don't think there is a reason to change it. I was hoping to reduce weight, and upgrade it in general to something more modern.

Thanks. You hit the nail on the "headset" for me. My headset is threaded and my options are now very limited. In fact, I don't think there is a reason to change it. I was hoping to reduce weight, and upgrade it in general to something more modern.

If it ain't broke, Don't fix it. I spend around £30 on a head set for my bike and have to replace it about every two years or so. My mate gets the cheapest he can get, and replaces it about every 2 years or so. Unless you are prepared to mortgage the wife, a Head set is a Head set, only the top grade units will last longer.(The cheaper ones will be heavier though)

Thanks. You hit the nail on the "headset" for me. My headset is threaded and my options are now very limited. In fact, I don't think there is a reason to change it. I was hoping to reduce weight, and upgrade it in general to something more modern.

Probably not worth it for weight savings. I'm in the same boat with the old threaded. It all works, so no need to change.

If you do want a new stem or stem/bar combination, you can get an adapter for it. ~$20.

Here is a thread on doing just that.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=437446

How do I know what to look for- size, style, etc? One of the few stock components left on 200 Trek 2200.

Look, I agree with what some else said, don't change out the headset for no reason. A headset is the least likely component to develop a problem and it will not increase your speed. That being said, the Chris King headsets are WAY OVERPRICED! You can easily get a $40 to $50 headset that will outlast the bike such as: Ritchey Fuzzy Logic Pro $40 or the Cane Creek S2 for $40, or Campy Chorus for $40 or Shimano Ultregra for $40. All these headset would be great and you could never tell the difference between one of those or a $100 Chris King.

The 2001 model has a "Trek bonded aluminum" fork, meaning you probably could see significant weight savings by going to a threadless carbon fork along with a new stem and headset. It's a big investment though.

I have found myself asking: which weighs more - a threaded steerer and headset with a quill type stem or a threadless steerer and headset with a clamp on stem. This of course assumes that the forks and steerers weigh the same.

Something else to ponder...

55/Rad

You could save some serious weight by going threadless and getting a carbon fork. I realise that's a whole other subject; but you wanted an upgrade. How does dropping about a pound, and getting a better ride, sound?

The 2001 model has a "Trek bonded aluminum" fork, meaning you probably could see significant weight savings by going to a threadless carbon fork along with a new stem and headset. It's a big investment though.

I have found myself asking: which weighs more - a threaded steerer and headset with a quill type stem or a threadless steerer and headset with a clamp on stem. This of course assumes that the forks and steerers weigh the same.

Something else to ponder...

55/Rad

given otherwise similar construction, threadless; there's less material physically there. the fork and headset themselves would be approximately the same weight; but, depending on quill length, there would only be about half as much metal in the stem.

A pound is serious weight- I had no idea!. A new fork sounds like the first thing to get. How do I know what size steerer tube to get. Any particular brand preferences... Easton?

Easton is good but I like the Reynolds Ouzo Pro. Check out the reviews on forks over at www.roadbikereview.com

55/Rad

given otherwise similar construction, threadless; there's less material physically there. the fork and headset themselves would be approximately the same weight; but, depending on quill length, there would only be about half as much metal in the stem.
That, and the fact that I haven't found a quill that comes anywhere close to the weight of a good aluminum or carbon stem. As stated, there is more mass overall, especially the section inserted into the steerer tube. Yet on the threadless setup, depending on where you cut it, I would assume there is some added weight with the slightly longer steerer.

55/Rad

All of the advice and experiences are very helpful. What diameter sterrer tube to get (1", 1 1/8"), does it matter? Easton EC-0 reviews don't sound all that good. EC-70, Ouzon pro and look get high marks. I'm thinking this project has been reborn!

You can certainly change from a threaded (older) to a threadless (newer standard) fork and headset, but you have to keep the same size steerer - either 1" or 1 1/8". It's based on the size of your headtube. Confirm your size before you go shopping.

55/Rad