Bicycle Mechanics - Installing a pannier rack

My new steel framed bike has two eyelets on either side at the rear as in the picture below :

My concern is that the eyelet the rack attaches to may break off under load due to it being welded/brazed to the frame. I don't plan to carry heavy loads (just using it for commuting).

On my old bike the eyelets were actually part of the frame (not welded on) and therefore much stronger. It seems the eyelets I have a more for mudguards than a rack. Am I overreacting here or is this common for new bikes now?

Thanks

I can't remember what I have on my bike. I'll look when I go home this evening but the fact you have 2 eyelets would seem that one set are for mudgaurds and the other set for a pannier rack. I assume you are fitting the pannier rack to the seat stays as well. If so this will stop most of the twisting effect that would probably cause the greatest risk of failure i.e. bending the eyelets away from the frame.

I've always had those types of eyelets and never had any problem with them breaking... I commute so usually the loads are pretty light.. but sometimes I've been known to carry 40-50lbs... and no issues at all with them... like the Hants said - make sure the rack is always secured t the seat stays... heh, otherwise the rack would probably flop down anyway.

Nice to even have two of them! so you don't have to double one up for fenders AND rack!

Not to worry. They've been made like that for years and not had problems. (Knock on wood.) I'll bet mine will fall off tomorrow now that I said that.

My new steel framed bike has two eyelets on either side at the rear as in the picture below :

My concern is that the eyelet the rack attaches to may break off under load due to it being welded/brazed to the frame. I don't plan to carry heavy loads (just using it for commuting).

On my old bike the eyelets were actually part of the frame (not welded on) and therefore much stronger. It seems the eyelets I have a more for mudguards than a rack. Am I overreacting here or is this common for new bikes now?

Thanks

No problem. The bolt that you are going to use has a smaller cross section and it's in shear. It'll break before the eyelet does.

No problem. The bolt that you are going to use has a smaller cross section and it's in shear. It'll break before the eyelet does.


This is the way majority of bikes have their panniers fixed, If you are still worried, and you are just carrying a top bag, with not a great deal of weight, look at the type that fixe's around the seat post, and no other fixing. Have used this for about 12 months on the Tandem, with the only problem being getting the single fixing bolt tight enough. I was looking art a Trek one that used the conventional top fixings, but clamped round the seat stays, and may be an alternative, but the conventional pannier with conventional fixings will not cause a problem.

I had eyelets like those on my old steel MTB frame. I used to do offroad touring and they held up fine under heavy loads and rough terrain.

If you have the eyelets - use them - I'd avoid the seatpost mounted racks if you can... seems to me they're just a work around for those without the eyelets.

If you have the eyelets - use them - I'd avoid the seatpost mounted racks if you can... seems to me they're just a work around for those without the eyelets.

I have a seatpost mounted rack because some of my bikes don't have eyelets. The rack is good for about 15lbs. Some are rated higher but I would not advise it. I rarely put anything over 10lbs on mine. Also, I would strongly advise against mounting panniers or anything that hangs off the side (unless there's a way to secure it to eyelets) on them since there is a chance they can swing from side to side and you'll end up with stuff in your rear wheel.

Thanks for the replies, looks like nothing to worry about then. I guess to be on the safe side its best to distribute any weight across two panniers evenly, as in the past i've tended to stuff everything in the one pannier.

is there any panneir racks that attach to the seatpost and then to the holes at the drop outs? I have a bike that has no upper rack braze-ons.

This was the case with my old bike, just make your own clips. Get 2 strips of metal and bend them U-shaped so they fit the width of either side of your seatstay tubing and then drill a hole. I cut and used a bit of bicycle tube to fit on the inside of the clip so as not to scratch the frame and add extra grip.

Blackburn include clips with their Ex1 rack, i'm not sure about the others though or other manufacturers.

is there any panneir racks that attach to the seatpost and then to the holes at the drop outs? I have a bike that has no upper rack braze-ons.

Couple of easy solutions.

If you have an average to large size frame. Most rack manufacturers supply P clamps to use on your seat stays.

Sometimes rack manufacturers provide, or you can fabricate, a single upper brace that attaches to your brake bolt.

If you have a smallish frame or one with a monostay, you can use a U-bolt and attach the upper braces to that.

None of this stuff has to be super stout, almost all of the weight is carried by the lower struts.

If you have the eyelets - use them - I'd avoid the seatpost mounted racks if you can... seems to me they're just a work around for those without the eyelets.

That is what they are for, but this owner is worried whether the eyelets are strong enough. I have to admit that the conventional panniers are the way to go, but for those of us without the conventional fixings there are alternatives, even though the may not be as good

Phatman,

For the upper rack, Blackburn offer P-clamps. If you buy a rack without them or if you have an old rack to recycle, your bike shop should be able to provide you a few ones. There is little stress up there, so the P-clamps are plenty... besides, clamping on the seat stays allow you to move your sadlle.

For the upper rack, Blackburn offer P-clamps.

My old MTB had rack eyelets on the dropouts but nothing up higher on the seatstays. I ended up using the clamps for a bit but couldn't get things to fit right. My finals solution was to bend the mounting tabs and attach them through my seatpost clamp's binder bolt.

The eyelets will be strong enough for any load. Are you sure that they are welded on, and not part of the rear dropout casting. Either way, it is all solid steel.
Its usual to use the top eyelet for the rack and the bottom one for the fender. If you should have a breakage, you can get yourself home by using the other threaded hole.