Northern California - Damaged wheel hub

I should probably be in another forum but thought I might get feedback here.

I now know the noise from my bike while climbing is from my wheel. I took my cassette off and found this. (See below.) Major gouges throughout my hub spindle.http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr41/chrisoco/b007-1.jpg

How could this have? The noise was almost always there, I got the bike lightly used. Should I contact the manufacturer?

And I thought that sound was from using the 39x32 combo on a short cage rear derailleur.

And I thought that sound was from using the 39x32 combo on a short cage rear derailleur. That's funny, but it even happens when I am in my 3rd cog, 39-24.

But I tested an old wheel with the same cassette and it was silent up Crestview so that is a solid test.

Silent bike, holy bike (as I like to say).

The grooves are normal for Shimano splined cassettes and aluminum freehub bodies. I wouldn't worry about the gouges unless they make it difficult to remove the cassette. Then you can file down the gouges a bit so the cassette goes on and off without much trouble.

The cassette will tick if the lockring is not screwed on tightly. I use a 14" adjustable end wrench to torque down the lock ring.

Thanks, BlastRadius, I appreciate the advice. While I know the noise is coming from this wheel, I do not know it is coming from the gouges, or even the cassette not being tight enough. It could be internal. I don't have a torque wrench but I don't tighten it maximally because I fear that I may not be able to get it off in the future. So maybe I just need to tighten it up some (although that same cassette was on a different wheel, tightened per usual and it was quiet). And the noise/clicking has been consistent, always when standing on a steep climb.

Have you checked for loose or rubbing spokes?

Thanks, BlastRadius, I appreciate the advice. While I know the noise is coming from this wheel, I do not know it is coming from the gouges, or even the cassette not being tight enough. It could be internal. I don't have a torque wrench but I don't tighten it maximally because I fear that I may not be able to get it off in the future. So maybe I just need to tighten it up some (although that same cassette was on a different wheel, tightened per usual and it was quiet). And the noise/clicking has been consistent, always when standing on a steep climb.

Clicking is not always coming from where you think it is. The hub is fine, all of mine look like that. I file em down when putting the cassette back on. I had thought my pedal was clicking for the longest time.Put said new pedal on new bike and clicking is gone. Could be not enough torque on the quick release, bottom bracket not torqued or no grease on threads. Could also be in the headset or bars. Ahhhhh, gotta love those mysterious bike noises.:mad: I never did figure out what was making the noise on that last bike.:twitchy:

after you file them down, stick some thick lube in there too

Clicking is not always coming from where you think it is. The hub is fine, all of mine look like that. I file em down when putting the cassette back on. I had thought my pedal was clicking for the longest time.Put said new pedal on new bike and clicking is gone. Could be not enough torque on the quick release, bottom bracket not torqued or no grease on threads. Could also be in the headset or bars. Ahhhhh, gotta love those mysterious bike noises.:mad: I never did figure out what was making the noise on that last bike.:twitchy:

+1, I had a clicking that I swore was coming from my rear wheel. Turned out to be between a spacer and the stem.

+1, I had a clicking that I swore was coming from my rear wheel. Turned out to be between a spacer and the stem.

Tore the bottom bracket apart. Checked pedals. Lubed the seatpost . Endeless searching. Rode by friends slowly who confirmed it was somewhere in the rear part of the bike.

Nope...Spacers... just a drop of grease and zoom.

so +1 on that you can't really tell where it's coming from.

Tore the bottom bracket apart. Checked pedals. Lubed the seatpost . Endeless searching. Rode by friends slowly who confirmed it was somewhere in the rear part of the bike.

Nope...Spacers... just a drop of grease and zoom.

so +1 on that you can't really tell where it's coming from.

I agree with Curtis, I notice it really became pronounced when you were standing and pulling on the bars...clean the stem really good along with the seat post, then a light coat of grease on the stem washers and some light machine oil on your kneecaps...all should be fine!;)

what kind of grease do you use for the spacers, Pete?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-based_grease
what kind of grease do you use for the spacers, Pete?

:thumb: (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-based_grease)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-based_grease

:thumb: (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-based_grease)

Could. But it gets sticky. I'd go with the classic.
http://www.philwood.com/Lubs_010.jpg

I use crisco myself (recommended by Pete).

I do think it is the wheel since i did Crestview with a new (old) wheel, standing of course, and it was quiet.

How'd the spacing get so messed up on this page? That was me, no doubt.

My original photo was large so I reduced it but somehow it poisoned the page.

Sorry. Live and learn. And then die.

I am glad to know the gouges are somewhat normal so thanks all for the feedback.

And I thought that sound was from using the 39x32 combo on a short cage rear derailleur.

That actually works??? I thought 28 (Shiimano) and 29 (Campy) were the practical max for a short cage RD.

And yes, that aluminum hub notching happens to everyone. After only a week or two with a brand new hub, I changed my cassette and saw the hub was already starting to notch, even with the cassette torque-wrenched to spec.

I use crisco myself (recommended by Pete).

I do think it is the wheel since i did Crestview with a new (old) wheel, standing of course, and it was quiet.

How'd the spacing get so messed up on this page? That was me, no doubt.

My original photo was large so I reduced it but somehow it poisoned the page.

Sorry. Live and learn. And then die.

Curtis's Giant picture of the Grease tube...he has a monitor the size of a drive-in screen, so it's normal to him!

Curtis's Giant picture of the Grease tube...he has a monitor the size of a drive-in screen, so it's normal to him!

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa292/taxi777/crisco-0314.jpg

makes good chamois cream too

I use it on my ball...bearings

Often you can find the source by when the squeak occurs relative to pedal postion, such as in the crankset or a particular pedal bearing. That said, I had a squeak than occured only when the right pedal was at the 1:00 position. I checked and cleaned and lubed all of the usual suspects...three times (B/B, crankset, seat post clamp, pedals) and couldn't find it. I happened to clean and lube the Headset, BINGO the squeak was gone. Sounds travel in aluminum frames...and they also seem to come from the B/B area...

That actually works??? I thought 28 (Shiimano) and 29 (Campy) were the practical max for a short cage RD.

39x32 works. I am cheap so wanted to see if I could get away without a new derailleur.
My understanding was that the problem was small ring and small cog in terms of slack.
But I did have to move the B-tension adjuster to the limit to avoid derailleuer/cassette contact.
I tried it and it has been working.