Road Cycling - Shimano Flight Deck

I got a Shimano Flight Deck on my new Lemond Zurich and, for the most part I love it. The only problem I have is with the buttons on the brake hoods. I tend to accidentally reset the elapsed time, trip distance, max and average speeds at least once everytime I ride.

It usually happens on a steep ascent or descent where I get a death grip on the hoods. I am going to have to learn to use the drops and stop the death gripping!

I guess it is all experience.

Other than that, the bike is absolutely fantastic!

You said "new LeMond Zurich." By that I assume you have the version of the flight Deck with one button on each brake hood. It will stop itself if you keep the major display on speed and the smaller display on odometer. To keep the computer from stopping I generally set one display on cadence and the other display on speed.

The reason I mentioned the year of your Zurich is because older versions of the flight Deck had both buttons on the right shifter. I understood that the conversion to one button on each was to avoid this problem. If that happens to be your case, you can go to a one-button wire harness as long as you also replace your brake hoods with one button hoods.

You said "new LeMond Zurich." By that I assume you have the version of the flight Deck with one button on each brake hood. It will stop itself if you keep the major display on speed and the smaller display on odometer. To keep the computer from stopping I generally set one display on cadence and the other display on speed.

The reason I mentioned the year of your Zurich is because older versions of the flight Deck had both buttons on the right shifter. I understood that the conversion to one button on each was to avoid this problem. If that happens to be your case, you can go to a one-button wire harness as long as you also replace your brake hoods with one button hoods.

You got it, Grouch, a 2004 Zurich with one button in each hood. I only have about 90 miles on it and am still getting used to it. I moved up from a Trek Navigator 300, which is like moving from a Pinto to a Maserati. As soon as I get comfortable on it, I am sure this problem will go away....I hope! Otherwise, I might have to get the retro fit.

You got it, Grouch, a 2004 Zurich with one button in each hood. I only have about 90 miles on it and am still getting used to it. I moved up from a Trek Navigator 300, which is like moving from a Pinto to a Maserati. As soon as I get comfortable on it, I am sure this problem will go away....I hope! Otherwise, I might have to get the retro fit.

Trekrider,
I had the same problem with my Flight Deck that is on a 2002 Zurich. The way you turn it off is if your on the display that has the time on it. If you hold down the right button it changes displays and I alway keep it on the mph and rpm setting. In order for it to count the top display has to be blinking and the way you turn that on and off is when you on the time which is the other display.

Hope this came across right because it is hard to explain on a forum without screen shots.

Philli...

Trekrider,
I had the same problem with my Flight Deck that is on a 2002 Zurich. The way you turn it off is if your on the display that has the time on it. If you hold down the right button it changes displays and I alway keep it on the mph and rpm setting. In order for it to count the top display has to be blinking and the way you turn that on and off is when you on the time which is the other display.

Hope this came across right because it is hard to explain on a forum without screen shots.

Philli...

It came across perfectly. In fact, I wish I had read this before I went riding this morning. I some how turned off the speedometer and it took be a long time to get it back! Anyway, I made it through the entire ride without once resetting it. I had to pay close attention to where I put my hands, but I think I am getting the hang of it.

Thanks.

Thing that pisses me off with the Flitedeck (even though I love mine) is the 2 menus. When your cadence is the larger number on the display (the preferred mode in my opinion), then the gear tooth numerical indicator that stays on for 2 seconds each shift does not show at all. Seems like a software glitch. Also don't like how you cannot see trip distance when in cadence mode without changing menus and that the clock is 24 hour format only without the option of going to 12hr north american style.

Still wouldn't want anything other than flitedeck though. Seeing gearing and changinh modes on the hoods are very useful to me.

Hey BaadDawg, I have the Flitedeck also and mine is able to go to the 12 hr style, I am thinking that you too can set it on this mode. It is the first thing that you set when you reset all the data. Also, I agree with you on the "gear tooth numerical indicator" issue. Sometimes if I shift a lot it seems like I never get to see my speed because it almost constantly shows the chain ring numbers.

The cadence feature and gear position indicator are what makes this unit. Mine has been on my 03 Zurich for 3500 miles and has performed flawlessly. It's wireless which is sweet.
As far as some of the aboved mentioned issues...
I don't ever remember resetting the timer while riding.

The cadence feature and gear position indicator are what makes this unit. Mine has been on my 03 Zurich for 3500 miles and has performed flawlessly. It's wireless which is sweet.
As far as some of the aboved mentioned issues...
I don't ever remember resetting the timer while riding.

You don't actually turn off the timer, but if it is on time and you hold down the right button for 3 seconds it actually stops recording so you have to hold it down again to get the mph flashing again. I just keep mine on the other display with is rpm, mph, average mph etc...

They are great though.

Philli

The cadence feature and gear position indicator are what makes this unit. Mine has been on my 03 Zurich for 3500 miles and has performed flawlessly. It's wireless which is sweet.
As far as some of the aboved mentioned issues...
I don't ever remember resetting the timer while riding.

I think the gear position is my favorite feature. On my old bike, I was continuall checking to see what gear I was in, but with the Flight Deck, a quick glance at it and I know exactly. As far as the other problems, I have extremely large hands and whereever I rest them, part of them are always hitting something else.

How do you set the time for 12 hours time? I never saw that option and I just reprogrammed the unit from scratch to start the new season with 0 odometer. And of course the manual is useless.

How do you set the time for 12 hours time? I never saw that option and I just reprogrammed the unit from scratch to start the new season with 0 odometer. And of course the manual is useless.

I don't believe there is a 12hr mode. I do not even see an AM/PM indicator in the LCD imprint.

I don't think there is a 12 hour mode either. An earlier poster said there was. Maybe he does all of his rides early in the morning and never uses it after 1:00 pm lol.

Ditto on the manual. I even got a hold of one in Japanese* and it, too, is worthless. This is one time when the Japanese was translated perfectly to English.

(Wife is fluent in Japanese)

No 12 hour mode and that is strange but it is in the manual. Most manual are worthless. I like the gear position showing also but as others have said on other threads about that,that dumb,you should know what gear your in and not need to look.You know how joe racer's are sometimes.

No 12 hour mode and that is strange but it is in the manual. Most manual are worthless. I like the gear position showing also but as others have said on other threads about that,that dumb,you should know what gear your in and not need to look.You know how joe racer's are sometimes.

Yes but we can't all be perfect like some on this forum are not can we? :eek:

Philli

No we can't,thats why i like the gears to show on the FD as i'm not smart enough to automaticly know what gear i'm in.

Holding the right button down for 3 seconds does NOT stop recording gabiker. It only change the program level.
Know what gear you're in? I don't think so. Those guys should know how fast they're going then and maybe even know they're cadence and the time by the position of the sun. Hell, they don't even need a computer.

Holding the right button down for 3 seconds does NOT stop recording gabiker. It only change the program level.
Know what gear you're in? I don't think so. Those guys should know how fast they're going then and maybe even know they're cadence and the time by the position of the sun. Hell, they don't even need a computer.
Your right you have to hold the left botton down when your in the time mode to start it and stop it. The funny thing is after all this I was riding this morning and had stopped mine so I missed about 14 miles. Go figure.

Philli

I don't understand. Why aren't you folks using the auto-start/stop feature?

Hi

We use a Flight Deck on our tandem. The gear indicator bubbles are perfect as you cannot see the rear cassette. I slipped a "O" Ring over the left hand button under the hood. This stops me from accidentally resetting the FD. It works for me. Hope this helps.

Keep those wheels spinning !!!!!

Big H

I don't understand. Why aren't you folks using the auto-start/stop feature?
I do use the auto start, but it can be turned off while riding.

Anyone here ever use an Optical Inline Shifter by Dura Ace? It goes inline with the cable and cable housing where it connect at the hood area by the lever. Its clear plastic with lines on it and has a bright orange bead inside that the cable goes through. As you shift the cable moves the bead back and forth and you know what gear your in!

Anyone here ever use an Optical Inline Shifter by Dura Ace? It goes inline with the cable and cable housing where it connect at the hood area by the lever. Its clear plastic with lines on it and has a bright orange bead inside that the cable goes through. As you shift the cable moves the bead back and forth and you know what gear your in!

I've test ridden some bikes with them installed. They were a bit hard for me to read sometimes and so I ended up having to do the look-between-your-legs method anyways to check the grears.

I've test ridden some bikes with them installed. They were a bit hard for me to read sometimes and so I ended up having to do the look-between-your-legs method anyways to check the grears.
LBS is currently installing new DA shifters on my bike. They came with new cables and the indicators and I already have Flight Deck. Wonder how the combo will work out?

I don't understand. Why aren't you folks using the auto-start/stop feature?

You mean as soon as your wheel turns it comes on? FD doesnt do that.

You mean as soon as your wheel turns it comes on? FD doesnt do that.

Yes and no. I have both the 6500 and 6501 models. Assuming the computer is set up for auto-start/stop (see instructions pg 10 in respective manuals), the 6500 will automatically resume from sleep and start recording when it detects wheel motion but the 6501 needs to first be woken up if it was in sleep by pressing the B button on the back. Shimano did this in response to some users who were complaining about "premature battery drain" with the 6500s.

Yes and no. I have both the 6500 and 6501 models. Assuming the computer is set up for auto-start/stop (see instructions pg 10 in respective manuals), the 6500 will automatically resume from sleep and start recording when it detects wheel motion but the 6501 needs to first be woken up if it was in sleep by pressing the B button on the back. Shimano did this in response to some users who were complaining about "premature battery drain" with the 6500s.

The funny thing is, almost every other cyclocomputer I've owned has had the autostart/restart like the 6500 and I've never though my battery prematurely drained. I'll keep the 6500, the battery is what, a couple bucks?

Yes and no. I have both the 6500 and 6501 models. Assuming the computer is set up for auto-start/stop (see instructions pg 10 in respective manuals), the 6500 will automatically resume from sleep and start recording when it detects wheel motion but the 6501 needs to first be woken up if it was in sleep by pressing the B button on the back. Shimano did this in response to some users who were complaining about "premature battery drain" with the 6500s.

It should be like the 6500 and not like mine,the 6501,oh well.

It should be like the 6500 and not like mine,the 6501,oh well.

Agreed. Just for comparison, my 6501 and my 6500 each have their respective batteries last the same amount of time... around two years.

Agreed. Just for comparison, my 6501 and my 6500 each have their respective batteries last the same amount of time... around two years.

That answered my next question.

My avocet turned on when the wheel was rotated. I like having to turn on the FD first. It makes me remember to reset everything.

Last year during the El Tour de Tucson, after carrying my bike across the first wash (Santa Cruz) crossing it just stopped recording time and distance. The cadence and speed continued. After messing with it for two hours it just started again. Weird, I called Shimano and they said it was weird and if it happened again send it in. It has never happened again.

If I was in the market tomorrow for a new cycle computer, I would get the FD again. I like my avocet 45 that's on my mtb too and would buy another one tomorrow if I needed one.

Is there a new computer head for the 10sp Dura Ace?

Does anyone know if Shimano actually makes their own computers? And if they don't, do you know which manufacturer makes them? I know the Campy ErgoBrain is actually specially manufactured by CatEye.

The cadence feature and gear position indicator are what makes this unit. Mine has been on my 03 Zurich for 3500 miles and has performed flawlessly. It's wireless which is sweet.
As far as some of the aboved mentioned issues...
I don't ever remember resetting the timer while riding.

Cadence is my question on the FlightDeck. Is the cadence valuable when it is virtual? I am just having a hard time accepting this for some reason. My FD is going to be installed on Friday by my bike guy (I call it CrackHouse bikes because the house is run down and always has cops outside - that's where they get their gear...)

Cadence is my question on the FlightDeck. Is the cadence valuable when it is virtual? I am just having a hard time accepting this for some reason. [/SIZE]

I can't understand this issue with virtual cadence. To me it's more valuable, not less, for being virtual.

If I'm NOT pedalling, then I KNOW the cadence readout is immaterial, right? If I'm coasting and I want to know "should I pedal?", or "will I just be freewheeling?", the virtual cadence HELPS, b/c it tells you whether you can realistically be pedalling "under load" or not: <115 rpm, it's worth pedalling; >115 rpm, probably not.

I can't understand this issue with virtual cadence. To me it's more valuable, not less, for being virtual.

If I'm NOT pedalling, then I KNOW the cadence readout is immaterial, right? If I'm coasting and I want to know "should I pedal?", or "will I just be freewheeling?", the virtual cadence HELPS, b/c it tells you whether you can realistically be pedalling "under load" or not: <115 rpm, it's worth pedalling; >115 rpm, probably not.

That's why a newbie like me looks to a Senior member like you, Allen. I need to know these things and greatly appreciate your input. :)

Can anyone tell me what all the differences are between the 6500 and 6501? Thanks.

MM

Can anyone tell me what all the differences are between the 6500 and 6501? Thanks.

MM

Now I see there's a 6502 as well. Can anyone compare/contrast these models for me. Thanks.

MM

Can anyone tell me what all the differences are between the 6500 and 6501? Thanks.

I have both. There are several differences:


6500 comes back from sleep mode immediately upon wheel rotation; 6501 requires a push of the B button on the backside. This was supposedly done to save battery life but in reality has just proven inconvenient.
6500 only supports one bike wheel and gearing setting; 6501 supports up to four.
6500 shows gear numeric position in a digital format quickly when switching gears; 6501 shows gear teeth in a digital format quickly when switching gears. I prefer the latter.
6500 shows a quick gear ratio in the bottom while showing the numeric position; 6501 does not. I would prefer having the former but don't really miss it all that much.


Those are the primary differences. Both computers will work equally well with each other's intended harnesses.

Now I see there's a 6502 as well. Can anyone compare/contrast these models for me.

I don't know much about the differences between the 6502 and the other models except that it supposedly has an extra bubble indicator for the rear cogs and thus supports the new 10 speed drivetrains.

I don't know much about the differences between the 6502 and the other models except that it supposedly has an extra bubble indicator for the rear cogs and thus supports the new 10 speed drivetrains.

I just checked Shimano's website...



SC-6502

Same features as current Flight Deck, but with 10, 9 and 8-speed compatibility. The SM-6502 also comes in a new color.

The new SM-SC70 wireless mount harness kit is available.



I am however amused by the image of it... Check out the gear position. That's some spinning!

http://dura-ace.shimano.com/publish/content/duraace/en/home/the_product0/shifting.ExtraMainContentPar.0004.Image.0.0.gif

In the continuing story of problems with my Flight Deck, yesterday, after about 10 days of no problems, it stopped, dead. The time still worked, but nothing else. I tried the usual methods I have used to get it going again, and nothing. Really PO'd, I decided to clear it and reprogram it. After I did that, I cleaned all the contacts, made sure the wires from the hood buttons were secure, the battery in the sending unit was good, and reassembled everything. It worked fine.

Then, today, when I took off it worked fine for about 10 minutes, then the speedometer started going screwy. I was breezing along at about 15mph, but the speedometer was showing 7.5, then 9.0, then 6.9, then 18.0, then 3.0. Then the trip time and distance and odometer quit working.

Really PO'd now, I returned home, put the bike on the carrier and off to the LBS. Luckily, I had calmed down and I told the owner that me and the Flight Deck were just about at the end of the road. He volunteered to replace the mounting bracked free of charge. Given that he had previously replaced the display unit, I now have completely new Flight Deck, save the sensing unit and magnet.

I rode with the new set-up for a little over an hour, and it worked great. Hopefully, it will keep working as it is supposed to. If it doesn't, I have no clue what to do next, other than going to a wired version.

I have the 6502 and it stopped working about a month ago. It turned out the magnet no longer worked and a better stronger magent solved the problem. So far so good.

I agree the 6502 manual is worthless too other than for the flow chart diagram. At least I know how to go from Mode 1 to Mode 2.