Classic and Vintage Bicycles: What's it Worth? Appraisals and Inquiries - Schwinn World Sport

Hey all I am happy to say that I have a verbal commitment on this World Sport. He said it is in flawless condition with no rust or anything and rides very smooth. He did not know anything about bikes and sounded a little out of it lol. I offered $65 over the phone just now and he turned it down. It was obvious that he is money hungry because he said that he would sell it out from under me if he could lol. Anyways, what do you guys think? Is it worth the $80 if it is nice as he says it is? I am going to use it as a commuter until the weather gets nicer and still will probably keep it because it is a 61 CM frame and it should fit me just right. Let me know if this is a good deal.

Thanks,
Free


Here is the CL link:

http://salem.craigslist.org/bik/983200481.html

While it is a rather low end bike I still find the world sports to be solid and dependable. Here in the Seattle area a bike like that ready to ride would bring at least the $80 you have agreed to pay....If it fits and it's ready to ride and fills the need......I say it's an alright deal. Stem shifters are usually a deal breaker for me though.

I would be skeptical about "flawless condition" until you see it in person. Condition is a huge factor, at the 80 dollar range I would expect it to be reasonably clean, decent tires and smooth bearings.

World sports are pretty nice, I think they have cro-molly frames, aluminum rims, decent suntour derailers, sugino crank and other alloy bits. I flipped a very small mens version and thought it was a nice bike.

I see them sell for 150.00 in Ohio. If it really is in good condition then I think it is well worth the $80.00.

Edit: I just realized that this one appears to be older than what I was thinking, Check the components and year...Schwinn made funky moves with their lineup, look for alloy components of decent quality.

Alright could anyone point me in the right direction as to what year this it? I will do researching tomorrow...time to finally get some shut eye. Thanks for the great advice everyone, keep the good stuff coming!

Free

The decals look late 70s very early 80s to me. Maybe a 1978

Here is a picture of a 1979, looks similar to me except the stripes on the seat tube:

http://oldtenspeedgallery.com/blog/wp-content/bikes/owner-submitted-0908/kyle-1979-scwhinn-world-sport-01.jpg

There are several of the Schwinn catalogs on the web. Just do a search on this site and you will find the link. The rims on my 1984 are aluminum, and the components are Suntour AR.

Also the 84 has bottle braze ons. Yours above is older.

I know the 1984 World Sport I got is near or at the bottom of the Schwinn hierarchy that year and weights in at a beastly 29 lb. according to the catalog. I paid only $10 for it but the wheels were crap substitutions (previous owner bought it for $10 just for the wheels then flipped it on CL). The example you show though is in much better shape and even though it's older, it's got that classic Schwinn thing goin' on. Worth $100? No. Worth $80? If you like old Schwinns, yes.

The World sport was introduced to the Schwinn line in 1979. It should be steel and weigh in at about 35# in the 25" frame.

The color as pictured is sharp, much more sellable than the blue (IMHO).

He is including the bag ($15 - $20 value), and lights (?) another $10.

If alloy or aluminum rims, $80 will be a fair price, as tall bikes are in demand for us height challenged folk.

If in ride ready condition yes a good bargain. If needs tires, then $60 is tops.

It is hard to determine the model year, you should be able to find the assembly date on the head badge, 4 digits, the first 3 indicate the day of the year, the 4th will indicate the year.

BUT, do examine the front forks, they appear bent slightly to the back, if bent, walk away, or offer $40 for the parts. Fork can be repaired, usually about $40 at most LBS.

Bent? Geeze I sure hope not lol. I guess if that is the case, I can always walk away and just tell him the frame is bent. I wish there was something I could say to him that would make him take less...he didnt seem to know hardly anything about bikes, especially vintage. He sounded early 20's, and like I said...was very out of it and money hungry. Said he would take 65 by monday if it didnt sell but has another guy that wanted it and that is why I bit.

BUT, do examine the front forks, they appear bent slightly to the back, if bent, walk away, or offer $40 for the parts. Fork can be repaired, usually about $40 at most LBS.

Funny, I don't see it. Where do you see the bend starting?

-Kurt

Funny, I don't see it. Where do you see the bend starting?-Kurt

The lower left picture. It appears that the line from the steer tube, down onto the forks, positions the forks continuing down behind the line that the steer tube would project.

http://images.craigslist.org/3kc3ma3l81f3126147916185afeedb4a114be.jpg

I would expect the fork front edge to be forward of the steertube about 8 - 10 " below the crown. It appears behind, yet could just be the camera angle and the right fork shadow in the picture. Since it is a painted crown there is not the same definition, but if bent, it could be at the crown end.

OK, what about the fork? How do I check and see if it is really bent aside from the obvious naked eye?

Just be aware to give a close examination of the front fork. Some paint wrinkles could appear near the crown (top) and were forks meet.

If want to be more accurate, measure the distance between the front tire and the down tube at the closest point. On my fillet brazed frames the clearance is 1-3/4" with my touring tires(Super sport 73), and 2" on another with road tires(Superior 76). I would suspect the distance to be similar on a lugged frame of this size, my 25" Traveler is in storage that is off-premise.

That pic looks fine, bab. Because of the bend forward at the end of the fork, and the lines of the spokes, it gives the optical illusion of a bent fork but I don't believe it is.

That pic looks fine, bab. Because of the bend forward at the end of the fork, and the lines of the spokes, it gives the optical illusion of a bent fork but I don't believe it is.

You are most likely correct, and I was be overly cautious. I like the tall frames and have encounter several possible purchases with bent forks, many obvious, but two that were most discreet. And if located at the crown, usually these can be fixed. The longer steer tube of the fork provides additional leverage (more so than shorter frames), to bend the fork tips back if a curb or obstacle is miss-judged. It is an item I do inspect along with the obvious on 25" and 26" frames.

golfer007 - will be hoping the bike checks out A-O-K for you and you get the deal you hope. Only the best!:thumb:

Thanks very much guys!!

Just because I can't leave well enough alone, here is a pic of my World Sport. In this pic, the front wheel looks a little out of round, and the fork looks bent back a bit. I can assure you that neither is true.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e341/Doohickie/Bicycle08/Picture231.jpg

"Stem shifters are usually a deal breaker for me though."

Why does that mean so much to some riders? I personally prefer them up top! No biggie just IMHO

It's a matter of getting used to them, I think. I had downtube shifters on the Nishiki Olympic 12 I wrecked. I replaced it with a Raleigh Marathon with stem shifters. I very much like shifting gear in an upright position so I prefer them there. If riding in the drops, it's easier to reach up to the stem, than to reach down to the down tube while riding up on the hoods (if you can follow that).

However, I did have a bit of an adjustment period to the stem shifters. The fact that my hybrid with twist shifters is still down, awaiting parts, means that I've had to ride the Marathon more than I otherwise would have so, (1) I've gotten used to the stem shifter location, and (2) I haven't been riding bikes with too many shift systems to confusle myself. Right now my only roadworthy bikes are the Marathon and my old Raliegh DL-1 3-speed.