Fifty Plus (50+) - &%$#@*!@ clicking sound

Just as I was finally getting the sodding Jamis dialled in, it develops a new sound :mad:

Seat finally right.
Gears finally working (how hard is it to get gears working? Pah, just flamin' ask me :mad:)
Bars in the right spot ... sort of, as close as you can get with a threadless headset and the appalling lack of choice with necks the industry provides.
Hell, I'd even managed to get the stupid brifters in a non-lethal position ... finally.

After 1,300 km, I actually had this stupid bike WORKING FOR ME!

So it starts to click. :notamused:

Just the occasional annoying click at first.
Then more often.

Where's it coming from? Is it while pedalling or all the time? Hard to tell ... at first.

That rotten click got louder and more requent. Dammit, this bike used to be the Stealth Fighter it was so silent, now dogs leap out of the way and small children bury their faces in Mummy's skirts in horror!

Almost.

Actually, I am being a wee bit dramatic, but not with the facts dammit :( This bike HAS been that hard to get right, but it seems to be almost there. So why is it picking on me with this metallic clicking noise?

The noise is reasonably loud, loud enough to be really annoying.
It's a metallic clicking sound.

It's intermittant ... naturally, if it did it all the time I might be able to diagnose it. However, it has progressed from once in a blue mood to once in a crank revolution to twice in a crank revolution - it's getting worse so part of me is waiting for something to break as that's always a sure sign of the cause.

It doesn't happen when I'm coasting - it's finally occuring often enough to confirm that.
It continues to happen when I'm standing and pedalling so it's not the new Brooks saddle that's just reached that time when you'd expect it to make strange noises.
I'm using toe clips and there appears to be no movement in the clips (I'd hoped that one of them had worked loose but sadly no) nor does there appear to be any problem with the pedal bearings - M324s with about 3,500km on them. Bearings?
The gears have just been adjusted and are finally working perfectly ... getting the outer cable length right fixed the shifting problems ... oh hang, that was the previous drama. But yeah, it's not the adjustment.

The bits are a mxed bag of old and new and worn in.
The chain is about 600km old and has one of them new fangled magic master link thingies ... which appears to be closed correctly (Wipperman chain and master link) and doesn't appear to have any tight spots.
The bottom bracket feels solid and spins freely - it has about 3,500 kms on it which is 'worn' but surely not 'ancient'.
The headset has no movement in it and is 1,300 km old ... but being a stupid threadless system that's suffered many 'adjustments' as I've tried to get the neck and bars right, there's always the chance that I've set it wrong at some point and stuffed up a bearing. However, it feels good at the moment.

The wheels all feel smooth and sound - Ultegra hubs with only 1,300km on them ... but as stated earlier, this noise happens under power. The wheels are tight and true.

The magnet is not hitting the speed sensor (first thing I checked) and there's no flex in the front wheel so I'm pretty sure it's not that ... besides, this only happens when pedalling, whether I'm applying power or just turning the cranks which probably rules out something warping under load.

No, the loose end of the front dr cable does NOT hit the pedal on the way through.

The bike is dead quiet when spinning the pedals on a workshop stand, even with the brakes dragging to give some load.

Dammit! What do I look at next?

Metallic clicking noise.
Only there when pedalling, standing or seated (so it's not the Brooks 'new saddle creak' or something weird with the new seat post).
Definitely NOT there when coasting.
It's getting worse and is quite loud - currently as frequent as two clicks per pedal revolution and getting worse ... when it happens.
It's come up and gone from 'what was that' to the current frequency in less than 160km of riding - I'm currently using her to commute with a 22km each way commute so this hasn't happened in one ride.

Any thoughts? Short of waiting for something to break, I'm out of ideas.

Richard
yes, I'm as pissed off as I probably sound

The 2 per pedal revolution implies something to do with pedals or bottom bracket. Check for loose pedals or bottom bracket cups. Check for Crank arm tightness. If you have an external bearing crankset, check the attachment of the left crankarm.

You know, it's against natures laws to have everything on a bike work just right. If you persist on fixing too much, something else will just break or go out of adjustment early.

Thanks Max. I just checked the cranks - they're the spline setup you got on Ultegra a couple of years back. The right pulled up tiny amount (just enough to feel I'd done something, I doubt it was enough to mean anything), the left was rock solid. I don't know that I can check the bb without pulling the cranks off ... can I?

Richard

Thanks Max. I just checked the cranks - they're the spline setup you got on Ultegra a couple of years back. The right pulled up tiny amount (just enough to feel I'd done something, I doubt it was enough to mean anything), the left was rock solid. I don't know that I can check the bb without pulling the cranks off ... can I?

Richard

Did you test ride it since you tightened the right side? I had a very similar problem two summers ago and that "tiny amount" of tightening was all it took to get rid of the clicking noise I was hearing.

While I suspect Maddmaxx is correct about the double click most likely being something in or near the bottom bracket area, Freeranger could be on to something if you shift your weight in any kind of rhythmic way while pedaling.

Once had a click that refused to be diagnosed. You say you adjusted the bars-try putting a little grease on the face plate and stem bolts, and if that doesn't work, then the bar/stem interface. Mine also seemed to be an intermittent click, and dry face plate bolts turned out to be the culprit!

I had the same problem and neither I nor the shop could get it sorted out. The same symptoms and the same noise noise and it progressed to about the same point as yours has and at about the same rate mileage-wise. One day out of pure frustration I decided to lube one part per day until such time as I had lubed the entire drive train. The first item on the list was the left pedal bearings. One little squirt of Tri-Flow and the noise was gone and has not returned.

Who'ld have thunk? It was quiet on the stand and spun quietly when not being ridden, but when in use the bearings were just dry enough to sound out!!

Good luck with yours and Happy Trails

This is a longshot, but it's worth a try: Spokes rubbing against each other caused a similar problem for me--and it took me months to finally figure it out. To check: place a drop of chain lube at the point where the spokes cross over each other. If, when you ride, there is an elimination or dramatic reduction in the noise, then you've found your likely culprit.

If this is your problem, sometimes just putting a drop of lube every couple of weeks will solve it. Although ultimately I had to have my wheel rebuilt.

Or it might be something related. Follow these links for endless hours of fun: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&fkt=1259&fsdt=9774&q=spokes+rubbing+against+each+other+noise&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=

Thanks boys.

Regarding the tightening of the crank - it's late at night here and I'm consuming a fair amount of theraputic vino rouge (which possibly explains the original post somewhat) - I haven't test ridden her yet, that'll happen in about ten hours time.

With regards to the face plate and bolts, I'll look at that. I've suspected I've heard a funny noise when moving off a few times now. While I've been inclined to blame the headstem, and checked the thing to no effect, it could indeed be some sort of movement in that area. If the crank tightening doesn't fix it, that'll be my next attempt. I have recently installed a new neck. I'm pretty sure I greased the bolts but probably didn't put anything around the bars. I'll give it a go.

Cranky? (you aren't my lost twin are you?) When the above two fail, I'll follow your advice. My problem is that I've never seen Tri-flow here - can you describe what it is so I can find some sort of alternative?

But yeah, it's looking like a long, slow, rebuild and relube of everything. I built this bike up about 12 months ago, did 600 quick kms and then left her on the wall while I struggled with bents and Trek's and returning to uni and life and boring stuff like that. I've rattled up a lot of kms in a surprisingly short time over the last few weeks but it's possible that something has just dried out during her time out.

I really want to love this bike. It's got so much going for it but somewhere, some how, we're just not clicking ... er hang, she's clicking and I'm grumping.

Richard

This is a longshot, but it's worth a try: Spokes rubbing against each other caused a similar problem for me--and it took me months to finally figure it out. To check: place a drop of chain lube at the point where the spokes cross over each other. If, when you ride, there is an elimination or dramatic reduction in the noise, then you've found your likely culprit.

If this is your problem, sometimes just putting a drop of lube every couple of weeks will solve it. Although ultimately I had to have my wheel rebuilt.

Or it might be something related. Follow these links for endless hours of fun: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&fkt=1259&fsdt=9774&q=spokes+rubbing+against+each+other+noise&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=

Hmm, funny one that - it would explain why it happens on the road under load but not on the workshop stand where only the drive train is under load. I built these wheels myself, got them almost perfect but not quite and decided to leave them until they'd settled in. Naturally (therefore), they've refused to go out of true but despite that, I've always promised myself I'd have another go at them. I hope you'll forgive me for leaving the re-true to last, but if the noise doesn't go away, it won't hurt to splash some chain lube around. The noise is a sharp 'click' rather than a rubbing noise, but I've enough experience with mechanical devices to understand that such distinctions are often misleading.

Richard
I normally enjoy being 'grumpy' but at the moment, it's losing its appeal

Now to share something positive about this bike, gawd knows she deserves it.

There's a half km stretch of my commute that happens over really really rough bitumen. Dead set, the local council found the roughest bit of road they could and then did the worst chip seal ever job on the stuff ... without flattening it first. It's rough, it's hard and it feels like someone's holding both brakes on while you ride on this stuff. It's a major commuting route and I've watched a lot of riders grimace and fight and struggle on this bit of road - the alternative is to play in the traffic.

Anyways, my Trek520 struggles on this route.
My beloved Europa throws her hands up in horror and bounces and judders and makes the Trek look like a tank but basically hates this stretch.

The Jamis, once you get her up to about 30km/hr, just glides over this. You can feel the surface holding you back and it's a struggle but the springiness of that frame means that all you feel is the surface trying to hold you back. It's an amazing ride ... and the other two are both full steel frames as well.

This IS a good bike. A little large (I reckon I could lose 1cm in frame size to be perfect) but all the indications are that she's a great bike ... if only she'd stop picking on me. Reminds me of my girlfriend actually :rolleyes:

Richard

First, if you have internal cables, pull on the housings where they enter/exit the frame. Next, take the pedals off, put a tiny amount of grease on the threads, and re-install. By "tiny amount" I mean a apply dab or two, then wipe it off using your finger. If that doesn't do it, pull the crank arms and BB. Put grease on the bb threads and re-install. Put a tiny amount of grease on the splines and re-install the arms (with a bit of grease on the bolt threads.) If all that doesn't work, do the same with the top bolt on the headset. You've already greased the handlebar clamp area? You can rule out the seat post if the sound happens when you're standing. If all that doesn't fix the problem, you can swap pedals with the Trek; and finally as a last resort, you can check your frame around the bottom bracket for imperfections in the paint that might indicate a crack.

Does the sound continue in both the small and large chain rings? I've had a similar issue and found the chain ring bolts were the culprit. If it only comes from one ring. Per the LBS advice, take the bolt out, clean everything, light lube and reassemble.

Have you greased the lower end of the seat post? That is another fix that I've done.

If none of the above suggestions work, I think it's time to pull the bottom bracket, grease the threads and reinstall.

Sometimes a stiff shot of whiskey chased with a good Aussie ale will help.:twitchy:

+1 on the chain ring bolts. I had similar noise and just one bolt was a wee bit loose on one of the chain rings. Checked/tightened them all and noise gone.

Mine was cabling. Outer cable on any movement of the bars and two cables touching caused a click--And the other was the extra cable on the front derailler catching on the shoe as I pedalled.(But that was only one click per revolution) Shortened the excess and fine.

Another cure is to put the I Pod up to full volume.

Thanks boys.


Cranky? (you aren't my lost twin are you?) When the above two fail, I'll follow your advice. My problem is that I've never seen Tri-flow here - can you describe what it is so I can find some sort of alternative?

Richard

It's a lubricant in an aerosol can.

My clicking was a loose screw on the saddle, only happened under load.

I felt really stupid when i had a problem like this and finally found that my PC magnet on the spoke was hiting the PC unit only when i pedaled. Spoke was 'giving' I rotated the PC unit on the fork slightly and away went the noise.

I felt really stupid when i had a problem like this and finally found that my PC magnet on the spoke was hiting the PC unit only when i pedaled. Spoke was 'giving' I rotated the PC unit on the fork slightly and away went the noise.

I've had that too and it was my first thought ... and was eliminated just as quickly which was a pity as it's an easy fix.

The ride to work this morning had the noise become even more frequent. Fortunately, this also means I have some more information.

It's related to pedal pressure. I don't have to be turning the cranks as I can get a quick 'click' if I stand when coasting ... but only the once, jumping up and down on the cranks won't do it after the first click/creak. It'll also do it as I stop pedalling - pedal rises to the top, I stop pedalling and 'click'. This leads me to suspect it's cranks or bb and seeing you have to take the cranks off to get to the bb, I guess I'll be looking at both.

Are these modern bbs serviceable in any way? Some grease? Throw it under a train?

Richard

I don't think the new BBs are serviceable. Yours is pretty new; just lube the threads on both sides and re-install it. Make sure there's a light coating on the splines, too.

See if it goes away with a different set of pedals. Don't go out and buy a set, just pull on some old pedals that you know to be quiet.

See if it goes away with a different set of pedals. Don't go out and buy a set, just pull on some old pedals that you know to be quiet.

Yeah, I'll try that. Certainly easier than pulling bottom brackets ... so it definitely won't be the answer ;)

The family wagon's at the doctor's too at the moment. She had a gearbox rebuild last week at horrendous cost (to go with the engine tear down a few months back). Yesterday there was a mighty oil slick underneath her. The mechanic reckon's it's just oil from a previous leak that's finally found its way out of the chassis - a quick steam clean and she's right **pause for raised eyebrow to return to normal** (not that I'm sceptical or anything). Anyway, just so it wouldn't be a cheap visit, he did discover that a wheel bearing has had it (been noisy for awhile now) and, of course, this car has the expensive, hard to fit bearings :mad:

Between the Falcon and the Jamis, it's like living with that old chinese curse 'may you live in interesting times' :notamused:

Richard
going back to work now so he can pay for his fleet of decrepit vehicles :cry:

I just went through that. wow headaches. oh wait still going through it, found so many problems from that darned click. turned out to be crank loose, rings loose, etc.

the next day or something crazy the noise came back only different.... I had chewed a bearing square in my front hub. how it felt and sounded like a bottom bracket issue I cannot telll you. But that got repacked and I am hoping the drive train holds till I find cheap used quality cranks so I can buy rings.

why the troubles why. I just wanna ride.
and yes I know that sounds crazy, the wheel issue. sounds like that ain't it for you. but just in case.

Mine was dry headset spacers. Sounds easy, but it sounded like it was coming from the back of the bike. I tried everything before finely greased them and made the sound stop,

Good luck!

Mine was dry headset spacers. Sounds easy, but it sounded like it was coming from the back of the bike. I tried everything before finely greased them and made the sound stop,

Good luck!

That's a good thought in this case - with all the mucking about I've done with stems and bar positions, I've greased the new stem but ignored the spacers. I'm pretty sure it's not this noise but it would explain another wee click that I sort of almost maybe hear when I first climb onto her and push off. I was going to check the headstem adjustment anyway (even though it feels fine) but I might go that one step further and grease all them bits and pieces.

Sheesh. You wan't to know the worst bit? It's the Europa that NEEDS a pull down and rebuild (the last one I remember was before my son was born ... and he's currently learning to drive :eek:), and she's not getting it because I'm pfaffing about with the Jamis ... which is going to wind up with a defacto pull down and rebuild at this rate. I'd might as well redo the hubs and retrue the wheels while I'm at it just to round off the effort.

And you watch, two days after she hits the streets again ... :notamused:

Richard

Same problem, two clicks per crank revolution. Checked everthing, no luck. Later I removed the adheadset headset just to clean and relube. The freaking headset was clicking in response to my pedaling....yet the sound came from the bottom bracket...honest...good luck

Threadless headset adjustment. Considering how many of these I've done, it's a bit daft asking now, but just in case I'm getting it all wrong, how do you adjust one? I know the mechanics of the job (that wee allen key on top of the headset), but how tight do you do the thing up?

Richard
ps both Park Tools and Sheldon Brown have avoided this one

Just tight enough to hold it in place without play. The stem bolts hold it tight, not the headset bolt.

Just tight enough to hold it in place without play. The stem bolts hold it tight, not the headset bolt.

Thanks mate. That's what I've been doing (rats, another option out the window :D)

The other beauty of redoing the headset is that I can do it easily tonight and test it tomorrow on the commute. When it doesn't work, I can put another pair of pedals on for the next day. When that doesn't work, I've got all day friday to snarl about it before doing the cranks on the weekend. When that doesn't work, I can do a one week sale on ebay and get rid of the problem that way :innocent:

Richard

Add another vote for the pedals!

I installed a pair of shmano 540s on my Paramount and the first day out..click click click.
Removed the pedals and installed the old road 515s..no click click click.
I tore the 540s down and regreased the entire setup and the click click click stopped..for a week.

I noticed that when I positioned my foot differently the click would diminish a bit.

Mine was cabling. Outer cable on any movement of the bars and two cables touching caused a click--And the other was the extra cable on the front derailler catching on the shoe as I pedalled.(But that was only one click per revolution) Shortened the excess and fine.

This is the most frequent source of "phantom" clicking. If you have any cable ends or other bits on the bike that can contact the frame, the sound can be "telegraphed" through the frame. Sound can be annoying, transient, relatively easy to spot - and easy to overlook as you concentrate on big, complicated areas like pedals, headsets and bottom brackets.

My most mysterious click to date ended when I tightened the cleat tension on my SPD-SL pedals. Go figure!

Thanks boys.

Regarding the tightening of the crank - it's late at night here and I'm consuming a fair amount of theraputic vino rouge (which possibly explains the original post somewhat) - I haven't test ridden her yet, that'll happen in about ten hours time.

With regards to the face plate and bolts, I'll look at that. I've suspected I've heard a funny noise when moving off a few times now. While I've been inclined to blame the headstem, and checked the thing to no effect, it could indeed be some sort of movement in that area. If the crank tightening doesn't fix it, that'll be my next attempt. I have recently installed a new neck. I'm pretty sure I greased the bolts but probably didn't put anything around the bars. I'll give it a go.

Cranky? (you aren't my lost twin are you?) When the above two fail, I'll follow your advice. My problem is that I've never seen Tri-flow here - can you describe what it is so I can find some sort of alternative?

But yeah, it's looking like a long, slow, rebuild and relube of everything. I built this bike up about 12 months ago, did 600 quick kms and then left her on the wall while I struggled with bents and Trek's and returning to uni and life and boring stuff like that. I've rattled up a lot of kms in a surprisingly short time over the last few weeks but it's possible that something has just dried out during her time out.

I really want to love this bike. It's got so much going for it but somewhere, some how, we're just not clicking ... er hang, she's clicking and I'm grumping.

Richard

I REALLY sympathize with the effort it took to get it fitting right! I also think the others have pointed you at all the potential problems I could have thought of.

What I've finally learned to do is measure the position of each part when I loosen it, and if necessary mark the part with a piece of electrical tape so I can get it put back on exactly the same way. If I do this with 80% of the parts and pay attention to my notes 80% of the time, I get 'bout 60% of my parts back in the right place on the first try. Saves a lot more grumping on my part and back-grumping by Mrs. Road Fan, who still thinks it's just a bicycle.

Road Fan

Bloody bicycles.

I pulled the headset apart last night (didn't remove the bearings, just dropped the fork - mistake?). Greased everything. Tried to convince myself that the thing was adjusted properly. Did everything up.

One thing I noticed which I hadn't before. Under the top bearing dust cap (?) there's a plastic bush that presses down on top of the bearing. This has a break in it. It's a clean break, it's a tight fit around the steerer tube and the break expands slightly when it's pressed onto the steerer so I suspect it's supposed to be there, but don't remember it. It's a Ritchey headset. Can anyone confirm that this break is supposed to be there? Does it matter where that break sits (front, back, one side). The headset all looks right, I'm just feeling panicy looking for problems to fix.

Ride to work this morning?

Still clicking but the noise has changed - it's softer, muted almost, but still there. I'm wondering if it's worth just pulling the top bolt down a quarter turn at lunch time (after loosening the neck of course, then resetting it, then finding it's not central, then resetting it).

I've also looked closely at the cables, particularly the gear cable outers from the bars to the frame which have been the source of clicks in the past. Last weekend, before all this this noise went beserk on me, I shortened them (the set up changes had left them too long) and replaced the end bits on the outers with plastic ones rather than the metal I'd been using - I really don't think it's the cable ends. One gear cable now touches the front brake cable but again, looking at it when riding I don't think that's the problem either. Unless it's the rear dr cable outer at the back end of the bike ... I haven't looked at that and it was disturbed while doing the cables on the weekend so another job for lunchtime.

If tightening the headstem doesn't work, I'll swap the pedals tonight - easy to do, just steal them from the Europa :D
Listening to the noise this morning, it's really easy to believe it's pedals ... which guarantees it's something else doesn't it.

I must be in a good mood today, I'm almost enjoying this now.

Richard

I must be in a good mood today, I'm almost enjoying this now.

Richard

And you know that you've got people around the globe riding with you - in spirit, at least. :thumb:

Unfortunately, riding in spirit is the only riding I'll be doing for a while with the way the weather is getting colder here....

Two other areas to check but according to your description #2 might be the one. I had this issue with my new wheelset.

1) Check the cassette.
Is it loose? A loose cassette will generate clicks.
Is one cog loose? A cog not properly inserted on the hub (possible with Campy) will make a clicking noise when in use as it is allowed to make a back and forth small revolution on the hub.

2) Are you using tubes with threadless stems. My Michelin tube stem made noise on rough roads as they were banging on the rim wall. Pinch the stem between two fingers and shake them, if they make a rattle noise use a tubes with threaded stems or use some tape.

Two other areas to check but according to your description #2 might be the one. I had this issue with my new wheelset.

1) Check the cassette.
Is it loose? A loose cassette will generate clicks.
Is one cog loose? A cog not properly inserted on the hub (possible with Campy) will make a clicking noise when in use as it is allowed to make a back and forth small revolution on the hub.



That's one I didn't know about :thumb:
It's an SRAM cassette - the bottom 8 cogs are in one unit with the last one loose (I think, maybe 2). It's been on for about 600km so is possibly due for something like this (doncha love the mix of ages in what is essentially a nearly new bike, the joys of building your own bike from bits :rolleyes:)


2) Are you using tubes with threadless stems. My Michelin tube stem made noise on rough roads as they were banging on the rim wall. Pinch the stem between two fingers and shake them, if they make a rattle noise use a tubes with threaded stems or use some tape.

I am actually, however, these tubes have been in there since the bike hit the road 1,300 kms ago so I don't think it's them. However, I will check and bear it in mind for the future because I think they are a really really good idea (because you can get your pump on and off easily ;) )

The noise is not confined to rough roads - it will do it quite happily on a brand new, dead smooth bike path the local council just put in (they must've been having an off day or had a new bloke working for them because their new paths are usually horrendous).

Richard

And you know that you've got people around the globe riding with you - in spirit, at least. :thumb:

Unfortunately, riding in spirit is the only riding I'll be doing for a while with the way the weather is getting colder here....

Spirits is good, especially Scotch though you'd be amazed what I can choke down when bikes start picking on me. :beer:

Richard

Just took a wander down to the bike locker - the valve stems don't rattle if the wheel is shaken or dropped or anything however, if you grab the stem with your fingers, you can move it around. I suspect though, that the tension in the rubber tube would prevent any real tapping, particularly of the frequency I'm getting. The rims are Velocity Deep V so there's a fair gap between where the tube actually sits and the hole in the outer rim and this might affect things too.

I had hoped to check the cassette for obvious looseness but that wasn't going to happen without removing the wheel and seeing I didn't have the right tool to tighten the thing with me, I didn't bother - on the list for next effort at home though, regardless of whether other attempts fail.

Richard

europa, I had a similar clicking with my Jamis Zenith Comp starting at about 1500 miles. It was the FSA mega exo external bearing BB. My tech just tightened the BB and no more clicking. Man, he really torqued it.

I know how annoying that click can be. Hope you find the source.

I think someone might have mentioned this possibility previously, but I had a similar 'clicking' under power that I could tell was coming from the headset/bars/front of the bike area.

Turned out it was the top cap where it sat on the top of the stem....it was tight, but was rubbing when I pulled or pushed on the handlebars. Putting a little grease on the underside of the top cap/top of the stem took care of it.

To test this out, after you have adjusted the pre-load on the headset bearings and tightened the stem bolts, loosen and remove the top cap, as it is not really needed except to crank in the pre-load on the bearings. Go for a ride and see if the noise is gone. If so, put a little grease on the bottom of the top cap/top of the stem area, and snug it back down again.

Bloody bicycles.

I pulled the headset apart last night (didn't remove the bearings, just dropped the fork - mistake?). Greased everything. Tried to convince myself that the thing was adjusted properly. Did everything up.

One thing I noticed which I hadn't before. Under the top bearing dust cap (?) there's a plastic bush that presses down on top of the bearing. This has a break in it. It's a clean break, it's a tight fit around the steerer tube and the break expands slightly when it's pressed onto the steerer so I suspect it's supposed to be there, but don't remember it. It's a Ritchey headset. Can anyone confirm that this break is supposed to be there? Does it matter where that break sits (front, back, one side). The headset all looks right, I'm just feeling panicy looking for problems to fix.

Ride to work this morning?

Still clicking but the noise has changed - it's softer, muted almost, but still there. I'm wondering if it's worth just pulling the top bolt down a quarter turn at lunch time (after loosening the neck of course, then resetting it, then finding it's not central, then resetting it).

I've also looked closely at the cables, particularly the gear cable outers from the bars to the frame which have been the source of clicks in the past. Last weekend, before all this this noise went beserk on me, I shortened them (the set up changes had left them too long) and replaced the end bits on the outers with plastic ones rather than the metal I'd been using - I really don't think it's the cable ends. One gear cable now touches the front brake cable but again, looking at it when riding I don't think that's the problem either. Unless it's the rear dr cable outer at the back end of the bike ... I haven't looked at that and it was disturbed while doing the cables on the weekend so another job for lunchtime.

If tightening the headstem doesn't work, I'll swap the pedals tonight - easy to do, just steal them from the Europa :D
Listening to the noise this morning, it's really easy to believe it's pedals ... which guarantees it's something else doesn't it.

I must be in a good mood today, I'm almost enjoying this now.

Richard

Chances are this is a dust seal, and is not critical. It should not be allowed to affect how freely the headset rotates, so you can feel the correct adjustment point. The headset should be adjusted just tight enough that there is no play under real-world stresses, but also no binding or sluggishness all 'round the circle. Any tighter is really too tight. A quarter-turn might be too much.

Steel bikes conduct sound from any point to any other point, except perhaps across the headset bearing. The fact that while riding it sounds like a pedal does not mean it's caused by a pedal. It also doesn't mean it's NOT caused by a pedal.

Road Fan

You all thought I was going to post back with a story of things tried, a problem found and the bicycle rolling sweet and silent didn't you ...

HAH!

The rotten noise has NOT gone away. It has however, become muted ie, it's less loud, but it's still there and still clear. Coupled with that, it's returned to being intermittent. When it's there, it's happening roughly twice per pedal revolution but it's quiet and disappears for long periods, not enough to pronounce a cure and not enough to attempt a diagnosis.

What have I done? The muting started after I re-greased the headset but the manner in which that occured, the frequency at the time and the way it dropped off later all suggests that was a coincidence.

Yes, I did tighten the headset a quarter turn and yes, it was probably an eigth of a turn too much. What are the dangers of a slightly over tensioned headset? When hanging free, the steering turns freely but has a hint of sluggishness which is why I think I went a smidgeon too far.

I also pulled the rear wheel to check if the rear cassette was loose. It wasn't ... but I could pull it down tighter, which I did, all the time feeling as though I was simply overtightening the thing.

And during all this, I've had the muting and decrease in frequency. It's like being stalked by a nutter who's realised you're watching him and has retreated into the shadows ... only you know he's still there.

AAAAARRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!

The next step should be to pull the pedals but I'm not sure I feel like it now. Besides, now that I've read up on rebuilding them (I'm using M324's with the clips removed and toe-clips fitted), I'm tempted to give that a go regardless of whether it's the problem or not. I know, I'm a mug and a sucker, but it keeps me from going mad.

Bloody push bikes. I think I'll take up something simple ... like rocket science or brain surgery.

Richard
making his life complicated so you don't have to :bang:

I'd take out my hearing aids, or if you don't wear them, perhaps put in ear plugs. ;) One good thing about all of this is that your bike is getting a pretty detailed going over.

One thing that I don't think has been submitted yet. Did you remove the skewers and grease the shafts?

Remove the pedals.

Grease the threads.

Replace the pedals and torque to manufacturer's spec.


That has solved every click-while-pedaling sound I ever had.

.

Lubricate the nut sitting on the saddle- About 1/2 bottle of scotch should work.

One more thing to worry over:
Do you wear cleats? Try a short ride without them.

Lubricate the nut sitting on the saddle- About 1/2 bottle of scotch should work.

:roflmao::roflmao:

Lubricate the nut sitting on the saddle- About 1/2 bottle of scotch should work.

Should I do this before or after the ride? :D

Richard