Bicycle Mechanics - Double-butted spokes

On Mavic OP's, are they worth the extra cost? Why? How about alloy nipples over brass? Is dura ace worth it over ultegra?

butted spokes are relatively stronger than the uniform dia spokes. OPs are strong rims, but investing in nice spokes are definitely worth it, for a more dependable, lighter yet stroner wheelset.

Alloy nipples? you mean the Aluminum ones? They are definitely lighter than the brass nipples we all use. The brass nipples are 50~60% heavier than the AL ones.

Dura-ace is definitely better than its younger brother, but I think the cost of DA hubs are too much for the performace benefits it gives, well that's my opinion. But if you have the $$$, then why not?

What you want to use the wheels for and what type of rider you are is important to answer your questions.

I general OP's are worth the money because they save you headaches in the long run.

Alloy nipples are great to save weight, but I do not recommend them on the drive side of a rear wheel if you want high tension on your spokes.

I think DB spokes are worth the money for racing and fast wheels. For training I use staight gauge 15 up front and 14 in the rear. DT revolutions are really NICE and worth the money.

Dura ace is nice but ultegra is the better buy.

Dura-ace is definitely better than its younger brother, but I think the cost of DA hubs are too much for the performace benefits it gives, well that's my opinion. But if you have the $$$, then why not?

It's more than just performance. Dura-ace has a much better polish/finish and will still look nice 20 years from now. My Dura-ace hubs from 1986 still look almost new. My 600 hubs from 1987 still work fine, but the finish is corroded and blotchy.

On Mavic OP's, are they worth the extra cost? Why? How about alloy nipples over brass? Is dura ace worth it over ultegra?

What are you trying to accomplish?

When you slice a pie, for every big slice you generally have to live with a small slice somewhere else.

I say generally because 14/15/14 butted spokes are an exception. Ever see a spoke that broke in the middle? Me neither. Butted spokes are skinny where it doesn't matter and thick at the ends where it does matter. The "they're actually stronger" theory is the skinny center section takes up the stress first so the elbow doesn't flex and eventually break. At only about $8.00 extra per wheel, I think that butted spokes are a no brainer.

Revolutions are 14/17/14 butted spokes. They're reliable, but the ultra skinny center section wants to wind up so they are a little harder to build up a wheel with.

Aluminum nipples (I hate when people use "alloy" as a synonem for aluminum) are significantly lighter and also come in colors. Aluminum isn't as strong as brass and there is no way to add material to a nipple to make up the difference so they are more prone to failure. They round out more easily too.

I think that Dura Ace vs. Ultegra, aluminum vs. brass nipples, and Revolution vs. 14/15/14 butted spokes all go together. If my goal was to build up a lightweight, high performance wheelset, I'd go with the lighter and more expensive component in all three cases and feel that the extra money was well spent. I'd be willing to sacrifice a small measure of durability as part of the price. If my goal was to have a good performing but durable wheelset, I'd choose the other parts and be happy too.

I use butted spokes on my commuter wheels, for the extra reliability and strength. The hubs are low-end and the rims OK but the whole package is excellent. If you are going to put money into components, then butted spokes are indeed a no brainer decision. 14/15 for racing style, but 13/14 for heavyweight touring appliocations.
ultegra/dura ace is a "brainer" decision. Both work well and outlast the spare component availability.

The Mavic Op's are a good rim BUT I don't think their worth the money! You can get the same style of rim, just as strong, and just as light for less money with either Torelli Master Series rims or the Ambrosio Excellence rim. But use DT Competition dbl butted spokes with brass nipples and have them laced 3x if you want a rim to last awhile.

The Mavic rims are great and the DT spokes are well worth it, depending on your weight, and your use of the rims. I have the DT 14/17/14 on the front radial laced and 14/15 3X on the rear drive side with 14/17/14 radial lacing on nondrive side with aluminum nipples. If the lacing is done correctly the nipples will not round out so much when adjustments are made. (Using some kind of spoke prep) I went with ultegra and I think it is good enough, I have use them for 7,000 miles without having to true the spoke more than twice since I built them. Of course having carbon forks are one of the contributing factor and a titanium frame. I am 165 lbs. and I ride hills a lot. The only spoke that ever broke was one off the drive side. Overall the rim is lighter and quite strong (32 hole rims) and faster at speed. I built the rims myself and never really had any severe problems with them. My first set of rims I built were 3x front and back and those spokes broke more often than the radial laced ones. Hope this help.

Just my 2¢ worth: aluminum nipples are quite strong. I'm not sure what alloy of aluminum DT uses, but I know Wheelsmith's are 7075 with a T6 heat-treatment. Not exactly soda-can stuff... :) With many, many wheelbuilds behind me, including for tandems, I have no qualms about using aluminum nipples.

Naturally, if the spokes aren't long enough to reach into the head of the nipple, then you do risk breaking the barrel off the head, but that's not the fault of the material, it's incorrect spoke length. Friction between aluminum and steel is higher, yes... but that's not a major problem. A dab of grease on the exterior of the nipple's head where it'll ride against the rim, and linseed oil or Spoke Prep on the threads, and there you go.

Whether it's worth it to shed 45 grams of rotating weight at the rims is your call, of course. :)

Butted spokes are a superior item, and I'd call them a necessity on some wheels--for instance, you shouldn't build any 8/9/10 speed rear wheel with straight gauge spokes on the left side since the slightly stretchier behavior of butted ones seems to help in getting even tension where the overall tension is low. A modern road wheel built with all straight gauge spokes will be more likely to have a few chronically loose left hand spokes even when the wheel is otherwise properly built. Alloy nips? Sure--everywhere but the right side of a rear wheel, there's too much tension in that area.
Open Pro's are the best even when they do get an incurable clicking noise.

Ever see a spoke that broke in the middle?

I have. Really cheap dept store bike spokes. Broke quite a few of them too.