Bicycle Mechanics - Freewheel tear down...

Just the other day I got a used rear rim for my mountainbike to replace the old one I currently have. The rear axel in the one I bought was bent so I decided I would try a switch of the axel's. The bike shop I bought the rim from took out the axel and gave me the rim along with the freewheel.

My problem is taking the old rim apart. I have gotten the axel out but I can not remove the freewheel. I am not great on my bike part terms but there seems to be a 'cap' on the end of the freewheel preventing me access to the bearings. How can I remove the freehweel from the rim, I am unable to turn the inside of the freewheel counter clockwise to remove it.

The cap I spoke of has small notches around the inside, does it require a special tool to remove it?

Thanks in advance.

Just the other day I got a used rear rim for my mountainbike to replace the old one I currently have. The rear axel in the one I bought was bent so I decided I would try a switch of the axel's. The bike shop I bought the rim from took out the axel and gave me the rim along with the freewheel.

My problem is taking the old rim apart. I have gotten the axel out but I can not remove the freewheel. I am not great on my bike part terms but there seems to be a 'cap' on the end of the freewheel preventing me access to the bearings. How can I remove the freehweel from the rim, I am unable to turn the inside of the freewheel counter clockwise to remove it.

The cap I spoke of has small notches around the inside, does it require a special tool to remove it?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, it does require a special tool that is generally inexpensive. What is the make and model of your freewheel ? It is a freewheel, isn't it ? Or is it a cassette ?

First off, you need to make sure you have a freewheel, as opposed to a freehub. In either case, you need a small tool that looks like a large nut with prongs that fit the notches in the freewheel/freehub.

If you have a freewheel, then all you need do is insert the tool and use a large wrench to turn it counterclockwise and unscrew the freewheel assembly from the hub. It helps to use a quick release to hold the tool in place so it doesn't slip.

If you have a more modern freehub, then you use a similar looking tool along with a chain whip and wrench. The chain whip holds the cassette in place and allows you to turn the tool counterclockwise to losen the cassette lockring.

One way to tell the difference between the two types of rear cogs is to spin the cogs while watching the 'cap'. If the nothched cap does not spin with the cogs, then you have a freewheel. If the cap and notches do spin with the cogs, then you have a freehub.

Yes, it does require a special tool that is generally inexpensive. What is the make and model of your freewheel ? It is a freewheel, isn't it ? Or is it a cassette ?

I am unsure of the make, I looked and didnt find anything specific. Here are 2 pics.
http://woodyscreation.org/bike1.jpg
The center portion is what I am trying to get loose. Here is a close-up.
http://woodyscreation.org/bike2.jpg

I'd imagine I have to turn it counter clockwise to get it loose, or can it turn both ways to pop out?

One way to tell the difference between the two types of rear cogs is to spin the cogs while watching the 'cap'. If the nothched cap does not spin with the cogs, then you have a freewheel. If the cap and notches do spin with the cogs, then you have a freehub.

The cap with the notches spins with the gears. I am unsure what you mean by 'cogs' as my bike terminology is limited. So I would have to guess with taking yrou explanation into consideration that I have a freehub.

You need a chain whip and a cassette lockring removal tool to remove the cassette you've shown in the pics.

I have looked at Mountain Equipment Co-op (www.mec.ca) and i found the chain whip and cassette lockring removal tool. But the removal tool looks like it could be used with a standard wrench. The more I look at the chainwhip the more confused I am with how it would work with the removal tool.

Would somebody be able to explain how this works and if and or why i wouldnt be able to use a standard wrench instead of the chainwhip.

The chainwhip is used to grab the sprockets and keep the entire cluster from turning when you turn the lockring.

Park tool has detailed instructions with pictures: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml

When you remove the lockring, you will be able to remove the cogs from the freehub body. The freehub body will stay attached to the hub. However, if you are just trying to install a new axle, you shouldn't need to remove the cogs. You should just be able to wipe the bearing cup clean with a rag and a bit of solvent, add grease, bearings, and the new axle with the bearing cone attached. Repeat for the other side screwing the cone to the new axle. It might be a bit easier with the lockring removed, but I don't think it's required. It might help to use a Q-tip to reach some spots.

I'd say the LBS you bought the rim from will probably remove the freewheel for free and tell you what tool to use for future, that will save you some time. Trying to buy this kind of tool on-line will probably wan't save you any money if a buck or two and the risk to get the wrong one.

Thanks for all the help guys, although it would be nice to have the proper tools on hand this does not seem like something I would do on a regular basis. Its great to understand how its suposed to work, but i will take Cycliste's advice and go to the bike shop.

Once again, thank you all.

Thanks for all the help guys, although it would be nice to have the proper tools on hand this does not seem like something I would do on a regular basis. Its great to understand how its suposed to work, but i will take Cycliste's advice and go to the bike shop.

Once again, thank you all.

You should actually need this on a regular basis if you clean your cassette, which you really should.

I agree with Seely on this one, I always get the appropriate tools too work on wheels when I buy a bike. I like being able to take the things apart, clean and lube them and put them back together. For me it's a little more money up front that saves me a lot of money down the road by not having to replace worn out gunked up parts.

Don't know about your riding style, but my bikes get gunked up constantly, between riding in snow, salt, rain and mucky trails, it pays to clean things up on a regular basis.

I caved and went out and bought the tools before reading the last two posts. As you guys have said, I enjoy having the tools to do thing myself. Thanks for all the help and the job was done successfully.