Classic & Vintage - A couple of snags on my 3 speed restore

Powdercoater forgot to powdercoat the little pieces that hold the fender (fender bridge?) and the pieces to attach the chainguard. Just in case, I'm doing the research and it seems my fenders are 46mm wide. A little wide to use the Velo-Orange bridge but it may work. The Velo-Orange chainguard hardware looks like it'll work. Powdercoater says he forgot to mail it last week and he'll send it out but I think he either forgot or lost the little pieces.

My rear Sturmey Archer...another story. I put the wheel on the bike and spin the cog to see if it "catches". Hmmm, the cog seems to be freely moving (as if spinning it backwards). It may be time to get a new rear wheel 3 speed from Sheldon Brown site or keep a lookout for a 3 speed from craigslist and canibalize the rear wheel.

Got the cotter pins in opposing directions and spun the crank. Looks like the either the arms a little bent but hey, its 44 years old, I can live with that wobble.

That cog problem might just be a misadjusted index chain. See Sheldon's site for details.
The crank situation can sometimes be fixed by filing the cotters a little or even just wiggling them around some.

My rear Sturmey Archer...another story. I put the wheel on the bike and spin the cog to see if it "catches". Hmmm, the cog seems to be freely moving (as if spinning it backwards). It may be time to get a new rear wheel 3 speed from Sheldon Brown site or keep a lookout for a 3 speed from craigslist and canibalize the rear wheel.

Got the cotter pins in opposing directions and spun the crank. Looks like the either the arms a little bent but hey, its 44 years old, I can live with that wobble.

The hub problem may be that it is stuck in neutral (Why there is a neutal is something I am getting tired of explaining). You may have simply put the pins in back wards from how they came out, or on opposite sides. The tapers on the pins control the angle of the arms a bit. They can be dressed a bit with a file (you usually have to dress new ones anyway). Of course the arms could simply be bent as you say.

The hub problem may be that it is stuck in neutral (Why there is a neutal is something I am getting tired of explaining). You may have simply put the pins in back wards from how they came out, or on opposite sides. The tapers on the pins control the angle of the arms a bit. They can be dressed a bit with a file (you usually have to dress new ones anyway). Of course the arms could simply be bent as you say.

The photo on Sheldon's site differs from mine. Looks like the nuts on the left side (non drive side) should be on the drive side. Since I'm not in a hurry to get this bike going, I'll try to adjust the hub.

A nut with a window on the non-drive side is used for a 4-speed hub such as the FW or FM. The indicator consists of two pieces and screws together from each side. What is the label on your hub?

Neal

The photo on Sheldon's site differs from mine. Looks like the nuts on the left side (non drive side) should be on the drive side. Since I'm not in a hurry to get this bike going, I'll try to adjust the hub.

I think it is time for photos. You may have something more exotic than a SA AW hub there.

I think it is time for photos. You may have something more exotic than a SA AW hub there.

I think its the basic. I'll try to take pictures tonight.
But here's something interesting I saw on Sheldon Brown. I think whoever had it reassembled it backwards. I'll try tinkering with it tonight. Worst case scenario, new rear wheel from Sheldon Brown Harris -- it comes with cabling, shifter, etc...everything I kinda need anyway.

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When you remove and re-install a 3-speed rear wheel, pay particular attention to the axle washers. The axles are flatted, and there are special anti-rotation washers keyed to the flats on the axles. These washers have tabs that must face into the drop-outs to help keep the axle from twisting under load. The axle nuts are easy to strip because of the interrupted threads on the flatted axle, so you should lubricate them with medium-to heavy oil or grease. They do have to be tightened quite securely.
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I'm at work so I'm just speculating right now. A few more clicks on Sheldown Brown site and I **THINK** the anti-rotation washers need to be on the sprocket side and not on the non-drive side. Can anyone confirm this? Or do I need two of those things?

Sucess!!
Thanks everyone for all the help and pointers. Here's what I did. I unscrewed the nut on the sprocket side and was expecting a bunch of "stuff" to come springing out. Nothing happened. Just a long spring which is called a clutch spring (Sheldon Brown).

I poured a bunch of Triflow in there and greased up all the ball bearings on both sides. I put everything back together and according to Brown, not to tighten it too much.

So far everything works well. I can pull on the chain and finally the mechanism inside actually moves back and forth. It was really really tight before probably from no oil. (Maybe that's what the hole in the hub is for :) )

Now I noticed I'm missing a few parts.
Indicator Spindle (chain) is broken. One of the links is half busted.
Cone Lock washer
Missing Right Axle Nut. Probably why the chain is broken.
I think ordering those 3 things from Harris Cyclery will fix it.

When I look at the exploded diagram from Sheldon Brown, I think some parts of the right side have been put on the left side (like the cone lock washer according to the diagram)

Now I need help with chainguard and rear fender. I'll start a new thread.