Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - Commuter conversion

I searched for this topic and did not see it on here. My problem is this: I currently ride a Specialized Globe. This bike is specifically designed for commuting. I have signed up for a couple centuries for the upcoming season. I started looking around for a new bike for this purpose. Then I started to wonder if I could upgrade my Specialized. Is this possible. I am thinking, change the wheels and tires(suggestions), and possibly a more aggressive handlebar set up?

Without knowing anything about the Globe, my first thought is what kind of gear ratios it has versus what you would want on a longer ride. It may be geared lower than a road bike.

First, what is your current set-up.

Second, why not just ride what you've got on the centuries?

I will post tire ,wheel size, not sure about gear ratio. I am just afraid it is set up too sluggishly. Tires are very thick, nobbies on outside, smooth on inside. Just think there has got to be a better way.

tires 700x42c/ 8 speed 11/32t http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22059

The only practical change would be to 'slick' tires in the 32mm range for
a much more efficient ride. Any thing else would involve so much money
as to be verging on ridiculous. A change to drop bars would involve
$50 or so for a bar and $150 or 200 for brifters, not really practical.
Leave the bike as is except for tires, and add bottle holders if not already
there and ride it. If you like centuries or longer then start looking for
a replacement. Your gearing is likely to be fine, certainly no problem on
the low end.

tires 700x42c/ 8 speed 11/32t http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22059

mmm ... I'm with the other folks who say you either do slight tweaks to what you have or you get a new bike. I have done MS150's and 400 mile AIDSRides on a Trek 730 that wasn't much more different than the Globe that you have now. Sure, you'll have a tough time keeping up with the roadies, but so long as they give you a generous time allowance to complete the course (9-10 hours), you can still do the ride with what you've got.

Personally, I think that the gear ratios listed in the specs that you posted above are fine. Having a 48/38 tooth big and middle ring will sort you out for the flats.

What I'd suggest for tweaks on any hybrid being pressed into long distance duty:

1. get a cheap cycle computer if you don't have one yet. Find out how fast you really are going. If you're relatively new to cycling, you may not realize that spinning higher rpms on your middle chainring might actually make you faster than grinding out fewer revolutions on your big ring.

2. you could go narrower on the tires ... not sure what the width of your rims are, but you might be able to mount, say, a 38 or 35mm Panaracer Pasela instead of your 42 Specialized factory jobbies. That might give you a little better roll on your wheels.

3. cycling gloves, if you don't have those yet. As others have pointed out, it isn't cost efficient to switch to dropped handlebars (as you'll have to replace shifters and brake levers as well) but gloves will help your hands from going numb or getting nerves worn out over distance.

4. clipless pedals and cleated shoes ... probably the most expensive thing that I would recommend. Cleats will allow you to harness your entire pedal stroke and give you more power. Plus, if you ever trade up to a road bike, you can transfer the pedals and shoes fairly easily and reuse them.

Thank you all! That is the realization I have come to. I will change the tires/ and see if I continue on this track, and then look for a new bike/ already added clips and computer. Take care.

The suggestions are good. I would only add, as encouragement, that when you get out there you'll be surprised at what others are riding. You'll do fine with the usual prep. Many people find that they replace the saddle when their rides start to lengthen out to 35 to 45 miles. At 60 and above, many small things begin to make themselves known, too. At about 80 miles, you will regret not fixing those. Just let your body tell you what to do. You can always come back here.

EDIT: Don't neglect your local C-List. There are great bargains on very suitable bikes there. I say this because even if you buy a new bike, you'll likely end up spending extra to set it up the way you want it anyway. C-List can offer bikes that might otherwise be out of reach if they where new.

I'm considering some nicer bar end grip thingies (~$50) so I have more hand positions on my commuter. Just a thought.

My only bike for quite a while was a 91 Stumpjumper rigid frame/fork that I had converted to commuter use: Brooks saddle, 1.75" street tires, fenders, rack and bar ends. I did a couple centuries on it, and many rides between 50 - 70 miles.
The Globe is set up a bit differently, but a similar idea; and with bar ends for an extra hand position, I think you should be OK with doing a century on it. It won't be the fastest century ever, but it's definitely do-able. I'm even considering back-to-back centuries in one weekend on my fat-tire utility cruiser, and there's a guy in the Clydesdale forum who's done a century on a 1 speed Worksman utility bike. Back when I was in Ohio, there's a very flat century called the Hancock Horizontal Hundred, and I saw people doing the full 100 on beach cruisers.