Bicycle Mechanics - Freeing a stuck bottom bracket

I've got a not so very old steel Peugeot frame, problem is it has a cartridge BB seized in it. It's a welded frame, so I cant pour lube down the seat tube, but I've pulled the cable guides off and have been applying White Lightning Epic lube into the hole (it's really thin, and has lots of solvents, so I was hoping it would penetrate the threads), but so far no joy. I've got a feeling that rust is the problem here, and perhaps the mechanic was a prick and didn't bother to grease the threads. Does anybody have some suggestions how I can get this thing out? The BB is knackered btw, so leaving it in isn't an option.

Your best bet is to get one of the shallower bottom bracket tools, like Shimano's TL-FC32, and rig up a bolt and washer to secure the tool to the bottom bracket itself. If it's a square taper BB, the bolt should be M8x1, and the washer should be big enough to fit over the tool, with a hole small enough to fit the bolt pretty securely. Pedro's also makes a tool for this: http://www.pedroscatalog.com/product.aspx?productID=6460210.

Once it's held on with the bolt, you can apply quite a bit of force without the tool slipping. Use a 12" or bigger adjustable wrench with a pipe slipped over the end of it if necessary. Make sure you're going the right direction first! If you can't get it out this way, you might have to find someone willing to take a torch to it. Good luck!

+1 on making a tool to secure the tool to the spindle.

Another strategy to use in concert with this is to remove most large sticky-outy parts (like wheels and handlebars) and, after your homemade tool has the spline tool held in place, secure the spline tool in a big bench vise and turn the frame.

Remember that the right hand (drive side) of the bottom bracket is L.H. (reverse) thread.

Those guys are right. Basically leverage is solution.

Your best bet is to get one of the shallower bottom bracket tools, like Shimano's TL-FC32,

Don't overlook this statement. Bottom brackets that won't succumb to a Park Tool tool come out super easy with Shimano's.

Also try to get some PB Blaster in there. It eats the rust away. It has never failed me with stuck BBs or seatposts.

I've got a not so very old steel Peugeot frame, problem is it has a cartridge BB seized in it. It's a welded frame, so I cant pour lube down the seat tube, but I've pulled the cable guides off and have been applying White Lightning Epic lube into the hole (it's really thin, and has lots of solvents, so I was hoping it would penetrate the threads), but so far no joy. I've got a feeling that rust is the problem here, and perhaps the mechanic was a prick and didn't bother to grease the threads. Does anybody have some suggestions how I can get this thing out? The BB is knackered btw, so leaving it in isn't an option.

Secure the tool to the spindle like stated. I reach through the front triangle or put the D-tube/H-tube junction on my shoulder and push down on the wrench/cheater bar.
Epic lube sucks as a penetrant, try Bike-aid or Liquid wrench.
http://www.lubritek.com/bike-aid_lube
http://www.gunk.com/lubricants.asp

If the spindle is hollow, you can use a quick-release skewer to hold the tool in place. I've had success by carefully heating the bb shell, too.

I was on an auto forum looking for help with a rusted stuck rotor and there were so many people that recommended PB Blaster I thought the company actually owned the forum site. I had tried heat, cold spray, everything. I was in the hardware store getting some big bolts and washers to make a tool to pry it off and happened to see a can of the stuff. It worked great and the rotors came off. I know this sounds like a bogus testimonial but it's true.

I was on an auto forum looking for help with a rusted stuck rotor and there were so many people that recommended PB Blaster I thought the company actually owned the forum site. I had tried heat, cold spray, everything. I was in the hardware store getting some big bolts and washers to make a tool to pry it off and happened to see a can of the stuff. It worked great and the rotors came off. I know this sounds like a bogus testimonial but it's true.

It didn't until you said "I know this sounds like a bogus testimonial". Shill! (joke)

OK, what is this PB blaster of which you speak? I'll have to try some.

Rather than PB blaster you can also just get a little diesel fuel at the nearby gas station. When I last used that it:
Looked like red dyed diesel,
Smelled like diesel,
Dissolved stuff like diesel, and
Left the "I've been using petroleum fuel as a solvent with improper ventilation" headache.

That said it is nice that it's in a spray can, but diesel fuel is probably cheaper, mix it with white gas (camp fuel) for a more accurate mix.

The official MSDS states:
Hazardous Ingredients CAS # Percent
Alkloxypolyethylenioxyethanol 68131-40-8 0-3 %
Solvent Naphtha, Heavy Aromatic** 64742-94-5 40-50%
Heavy Petroleum Distillate 64742-65-0 20-30%
Hydrotreated Light Distillate 64742-47-8 30-40%
ACGIH (PEL)-500 ppm

OK, what is this PB blaster of which you speak? I'll have to try some.

Don't get it in your eyes and be sure to work in a well ventilated area. (see my above post)

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/blaster/blaster003%20027.jpg

I don't think I've seen it before- can it be bought in the UK?

All good advice. I know it was mentioned earlier but can't be stressed enough, make sure you're going the right direction. I had a BB stuck awhile back and I was positive that I was pulling in the right direction... but I wasn't.:o

So... did you managed to get it out? I have managed to got a few stucked BBs judt by using a chisel & hammer.... and plenty of WD-40. One case took me a few hours once, I almost gave up. I did not just because it was a beautiful Bridgestone MTB frame....

Just curious why a welded frame would prevent anything from going down the seat tube to the bb shell?

Just curious why a welded frame would prevent anything from going down the seat tube to the bb shell?

In a brazed/lugged frame the lugs aren't sealed at the end so you can get to the inside of the tubes from both ends. In a welded frame the BB is often sealed off or only has a weep hole.

I don't think I've seen it before- can it be bought in the UK?

Auto parts stores have it here. If not, just mix some diesel fuel with some naptha/white gas/coleman fuel/zippo fluid/all the same.

Each of the welded frames I've had there was access, that's why I was wondering...guess I had unusual frames then?

Right, update. I got a can of Plusgas- apparently the best penetrating dismantling lube available in the UK. I've been squiring it in there, and given it some time. It says on the can that it usually works instantaneously, but in severe cases can take a few minutes. I've given it 15. I've taken all bits off the frame, so I can put my feet on the top tube. I've bolted the removal tool in place, and I'm starting with the left hand side, as that is sure to be anticlockwise to unscrew. I've also put a 2 foot long cheater bar on my spanner. And the ******* thing still won't budge.

Any suggestions?

There comes a time when it things become undoable.

That isn't much help you know...

What about heating it- anybody know how I'd go about doing that?

heat the BB with a portable propane or MAP gas torch.
If this doesn't work, dynamite.
:D
I had a hell of a time with a Shimano BB and an AL Diamondback frame. It was left submerged in water.
Took a PB Blaster soaking overnight, followed by clamping a Park tool to the cup and and a super long breaker bar. Had to stomp on it with my right leg. But it finally loosened.
Don't know why people insist on not using anti-seize compound for dissimilar metal contacts.

Have you tried the local bike shop? I've seen them do some amazing things with stuck BBs around here.

If you CANNOT get it out there is one last option, which I had to do once. Disassemble the cartridge bb while it is still in your frame to get the spindle out. This CAN nearly always be done from the outside if you use a knife to catch and slide off the hard plastic seals until the bolts are removed. I've only seen one type of Shimano cartridge BB that couldn't eventually be disassembled from the outside and that was an octalink one. Alternatively, if you really can't get it apart, pull out a die grinder/dremel tool and grind out the spindle (this will take forever). With the spindle removed you can try variations of the Sheldon Brown bolt method for cup/cone BBs or the stuck seat tube, hacksaw/vice grips method to extract the cups. Be careful with the threads, but at this point you're probably going to want to have them chased anyways.

At last! I did it! Victory!!!

Never knew such a seemingly simple task could provide such a massive feeling of accomplishment! Here's how I did it- two spanners on the tool (bolted to the spindle), cheater bars on each, a blowtorch, and a friend yanking on the other bar.

It also dawned on me that trying to take the left hand out first was a mistake- with the removal tool bolted to the spindle, I could not have pulled it out very far, because the spindle would stay put- preventing it unscrewing. Also, once the right hand, with the cartridge, was out, the left hand was easier- the cartridge presses against the thin left hand piece, holding it tighter against the threads.

Now, to clean the threads with a toothbrush and slather them in copper grease. I've a feeling the Plusgas might be handy for cleaning the threads.

If the threads are the least bit rough and you cannot get the new BB back in by hand have a shop chase the threads, and then grease them a LOT.