Bicycle Mechanics - Derailer Adjustments

I have questions for both the front and rear derailers.

Front Derailer

When the chain is on the outside gear it rubs against the derailer, are there any adjustments that can be made to prevent the rubbing?
Also, when changing gears to the inside gears the derailer does not seem to move far enough over to drop the chain, i have to push it over with my foot at times. Once dropped everything is smooth.

Rear Derailer
No matter how i change my gears the chain will not drop down to the final outside gear. The derailer will not move to pull the chain from the one right beside it.

What is causing this?
When i am sitting/pedalling at a smooth pace everything is fine, but once i stand up and try to pedal hard without changing gears the chain 'jumps' as if it missed a tooth on the gear. This happens on any given gear. Any ideas?

Also, i just noticed today, when changing the back gears starting from the inside gear, it skips a gear every time it changes so the chain is only going on about 4 of the 7 gears that are there.

Also, i just noticed today, when changing the back gears starting from the inside gear, it skips a gear every time it changes so the chain is only going on about 4 of the 7 gears that are there.

is the rear derailer bent in anyway?

Also, i just noticed today, when changing the back gears starting from the inside gear, it skips a gear every time it changes so the chain is only going on about 4 of the 7 gears that are there.

Unless your drivetrain is very dirty...

Your front derailleur is out of alignment. Maybe the limits, maybe the angle, maybe it's just bent. How did it happen?

Your rear derailleur is also out of alignment. The high gear limit is off and the indexing needs adjustment too. Again, how did it happen?

If you crashed, your derailleurs may be bent; your rear hanger may be bent.

Has this been developing over a long period of time? Is this a Wal-Mart bike that was set up poorly when you bought it? Have you crashed it? Have you been flailing about with screws and barrels and gotten yourself in a hole? If we know =why= it's out of whack, we've got more to go on to diagnose the root problem.

Assuming your derailleur isn't broken, you have some adjustment issues.

Take a look at http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQrindx.shtml. The Park Tool site contains detailed information on setting your derailleur.

I'm not a mechanic but I had a similar problem that I solved almost accidentally. My bike had horizontal drop outs and I noticed that the cassette side of the wheel was further forward than the other side. When I loosened the wheel two things happened. The chain tension was increased and the sprockets were better aligned. I needed to redo the H and L stops but it worked well after that.

If you can pull your wheel further back, the chain will be tighter and the derailer won't come up so high.

Sounds like you need to start with a good scrubbing and relubing of your drivetrain, including lubing the cables and housing, all pivot points, and anything else that moves. My guess is that your chain is stretched, your freewheel is worn, and your derailleur hanger may be bent. That stuff should get you started.

Wow so this is what happesn when i dont check this forum for 12 hours lol...

As for the bike, i bought it just a month ago from Sport mart for 100.00. What i got was a frame that was a 2002 model, with basically everything but the gar shifters, brake levers and front v brakes.

So i havent riden it enough to cause any damage. When the store had the bike together and intended to sell it as a whole instead of using it for parts it was a 24 speed, i only had a spare rear wheel with 7 gears not the 8.

I will look at the link bugman suggested and attempt to fiddle with the adjustments.

Zoridog, my bike has vertical drop outs, i much prefer those over horizontal like my BMX has.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. If i cant get it to work with adjustments I will take the comments by others into consideration and see what can be done.

Wow so this is what happesn when i dont check this forum for 12 hours lol...

As for the bike, i bought it just a month ago from Sport mart for 100.00. What i got was a frame that was a 2002 model, with basically everything but the gar shifters, brake levers and front v brakes.

So i havent riden it enough to cause any damage. When the store had the bike together and intended to sell it as a whole instead of using it for parts it was a 24 speed, i only had a spare rear wheel with 7 gears not the 8.

I will look at the link bugman suggested and attempt to fiddle with the adjustments.

Zoridog, my bike has vertical drop outs, i much prefer those over horizontal like my BMX has.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. If i cant get it to work with adjustments I will take the comments by others into consideration and see what can be done.


What do they say when someone hears an avalanche coming?

If I understand correctly, you have a bike with 8-speed shifters and a wheel with a 7-speed cassette. This is a major cause of your troubles. They are not compatible. You either need to get some 7-speed shifters or a new rear wheel with an 8-speed cassette.

If I understand correctly, you have a bike with 8-speed shifters and a wheel with a 7-speed cassette. This is a major cause of your troubles. They are not compatible. You either need to get some 7-speed shifters or a new rear wheel with an 8-speed cassette.

I forgot to state that I have 7 speed shifters. See the bike didnt have shifters, or a rear wheel. I had an old MTB kicken around that had a 7 gear rear wheel and the shifters as well so thats what I used.


What do they say when someone hears an avalanche coming?

umm i'd guess Oh #&%@! ;)

These two pictures should give you a better idea of what I am talking about for the front derailer.
http://woodyscreation.org/derailer1.jpg http://woodyscreation.org/derailer2.jpg

Where the red tape is the derailer is touching the chain. Would this be an adjustment of teh screwes to allow the derailer to travel that extra mm or so to clear the chain?

These two pictures should give you a better idea of what I am talking about for the front derailer.
http://woodyscreation.org/derailer1.jpg http://woodyscreation.org/derailer2.jpg

Where the red tape is the derailer is touching the chain. Would this be an adjustment of teh screwes to allow the derailer to travel that extra mm or so to clear the chain?

Make sure the cage is situated 1-2mm above the big ring, and is perfectly parallel to the big ring... if it still rubs after you verify all that, then the limit needs to come out a bit more. I can never remember without seeing it, but I think its the outermost screw that needs to be loosened a bit.

These two pictures should give you a better idea of what I am talking about for the front derailer.
(see images above)
Where the red tape is the derailer is touching the chain. Would this be an adjustment of teh screwes to allow the derailer to travel that extra mm or so to clear the chain? It could be the "H" limit screw (sometimes it's the one further away from the frame, sometimes it's the one closer; it should be marked with an "H" for "High limit"), or it may be the cable/barrel adjustment.

Try pulling the derailleur further to the right with your hand. If the derailleur physically won't move any further to the right, even with your hand, it's probably the "H" limit. If it does move when you pull it with your hand, but "rests" when you let go of it such that it rubs as you describe, it's more likely the cable/barrel adjustment. Turn the adjuster (usu. counter-clockwise to take up cable slack) and watch the derailleur from above (have the bike right-side-up) as you do. You should see the derailleur slowly move away from the chain. Also make sure, as you look down, that the imaginary centerline of the inside of the derailleur cage is exactly in line with the chain line, while the chain is on the middle cog in the rear. If it's not, you will probably need to loosen the derailleur as it's mounted on the frame tube, and rotate it (do this with the shifter in the small-ring position, thus putting slack on the cable; otherwise the cable may pull the derailleur up or down on the frame tube, botching up your adjustments entirely).

Ok guys, thanks for the help. It is all fixed with a combination of adjusting the H screw and the cable itself. Thank you.