bugly64
02-01-09, 04:43 AM
I have a Schwinn kid hauler that hooks up to the skewer. My Lbs told me it is bad for my bike. Is that true? I have shimano xt hubs and skewers.
Utility Cycling - Kid hauler question
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Nightshade
02-01-09, 11:08 AM
Ask the LBS to detail why it's bad for your bike. There may be some mechanical consideration
but just "bad for your bike" don't get it.
but just "bad for your bike" don't get it.
bugly64
02-01-09, 04:31 PM
He speaks primarily Japanese, so from what I understood, it was just bad for the skewers and brake alignment.
neilfein
02-01-09, 10:06 PM
What kind of bike is it? (I can't imagine any such problem with a steel frame, for example.)
bugly64
02-01-09, 10:22 PM
I have a Kona Blast mtb and a Surly Cross Check. I had been using it on my Kona which has hydraulic disk brakes. It's not connected to the frame rather it has a coupler held on by the skewer.
crackerdog
02-01-09, 11:21 PM
Picture of hitch?
neilfein
02-01-09, 11:32 PM
What's the frame material on the Kona?
bugly64
02-01-09, 11:38 PM
this is the part that mounts to the skewer.
bugly64
02-02-09, 02:57 AM
Kona Blast is made of Alum.
Sturmcrow
02-02-09, 10:38 AM
I recall reading in the past that front dropouts require lawyer lips when using disc brakes because the action of braking causes a reactive force that drives the axle downwards and can pop it out (as opposed to rim brakes which cause no force on the axle).
Perhaps your LBS is concerned that having another piece of material between the skewer and the dropout could cause a weaker link there and your wheel could pop out while braking.
Perhaps your LBS is concerned that having another piece of material between the skewer and the dropout could cause a weaker link there and your wheel could pop out while braking.
neilfein
02-02-09, 10:48 AM
Perhaps your LBS is concerned that having another piece of material between the skewer and the dropout could cause a weaker link there and your wheel could pop out while braking.
This is a particular concern with quick-release skewers, particularly when climbing. Does the Kona have horizontal dropouts?
This is a particular concern with quick-release skewers, particularly when climbing. Does the Kona have horizontal dropouts?
Cyclaholic
02-02-09, 07:57 PM
The only problem I can see is if the thickness of the part in the picture is enough that the knob doesn't thread onto the skewer far enough to avoid stripping the thread. The knob should fully thread onto the skewer.
Other than that there's no structural problem as that connecting point is at the apex of 3 triangles and is structurally one of the strongest points on the bike. It is the strongest (practical) connecting point for a trailer.
If the problem is that the skewer is too short you can get a longer one, even one designed for a tandem which is 5mm longer than a mountain bike and 10mm longer than a road bike skewer.
Other than that there's no structural problem as that connecting point is at the apex of 3 triangles and is structurally one of the strongest points on the bike. It is the strongest (practical) connecting point for a trailer.
If the problem is that the skewer is too short you can get a longer one, even one designed for a tandem which is 5mm longer than a mountain bike and 10mm longer than a road bike skewer.
Cyclaholic
02-02-09, 08:03 PM
This is a particular concern with quick-release skewers, particularly when climbing. Does the Kona have horizontal dropouts?
That's a valid concern with horizontal dropouts, but having the trailer hitch component under the skewer won't change the holding power of the skewer - the clamping force is the same. The variable to consider is if the coefficient of friction between the hitch and the frame is significantly lower than between the skewer and frame, which I doubt.
Anyhow, with horizontal dropouts you should have solid axles and flanged nuts, otherwise you're just making life difficult for yourself.
That's a valid concern with horizontal dropouts, but having the trailer hitch component under the skewer won't change the holding power of the skewer - the clamping force is the same. The variable to consider is if the coefficient of friction between the hitch and the frame is significantly lower than between the skewer and frame, which I doubt.
Anyhow, with horizontal dropouts you should have solid axles and flanged nuts, otherwise you're just making life difficult for yourself.