Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Trek 1000 questions

I am going to looking at a Trek 1000 this morning and have some questions. First of all searches here and on the internet are all over the good bike/bad bike spectrum. I know it is entry level.

What I have not found yet is what is it's geometry designed for? The owner says it is frame type "M" what ever that means. Is it relaxed/touring, or more racy?

Ok for a first road bike for a 50+ clyde?

Oh, edited to add that I am not sure of the year, but fairly new. Blue/White if it matters. Very low miles.

I'm pretty sure it has kind of a "sport" geometry. Not to aggressive like a full on race frame, but not too relaxed like a touring frame.

If it fits it will most likely be a good bike. Well, at least until you decide you want to race, lol. Even then, guys race them.

I am going to looking at a Trek 1000 this morning and have some questions. First of all searches here and on the internet are all over the good bike/bad bike spectrum. I know it is entry level.

What I have not found yet is what is it's geometry designed for? The owner says it is frame type "M" what ever that means. Is it relaxed/touring, or more racy?

Ok for a first road bike for a 50+ clyde?

Oh, edited to add that I am not sure of the year, but fairly new. Blue/White if it matters. Very low miles.

Often where you get the bad bike opinions it's like the guy who wants to buy an entry level bike, but expect high level performance. Kinda like the guy who wants a $10,000 Chevy Aveo that drives like a $100,000 Corvette ..... If you take it for what it is, an entry level bike, that you will probably want to upgrade to something else in a couple of years, you will not be disappointed.

The 1000 was Trek's entry level relaxed geometry road bike, probably a Mens frame. They dropped the 1000 last year and renumbered the next model up, the 1200 as the 1.2. So it could be as new as 2007, this isn't really a concern though, as long as everything works properly and the price is reasonable.

Thanks for the input - - heading out shortly to check it. Will report back!

FWIW, a friend of mine, here in Lafayette did a TransAm on a Trek 1000 2 years ago, and the entire Underground Railroad route last summer on the same bike. She's been pretty happy with it. :D

1000 's Have always been a good entry level bike. It will have Sora components, which arent bad, but wont shift as well as higher end stuff. Decent bike for sure.

The "M" is for medium not model. Medium usally fits like a 52-54cm frame. Trek 1000 are pretty much bullet proof but don't expect the best ride in the world. Still a great bike to start on be carefull of price tho.

1000 's Have always been a good entry level bike. It will have Sora components, which arent bad, but wont shift as well as higher end stuff. Decent bike for sure.

Sora components shift fine for thousands of miles so don't worry about that at all. The shift from gear to gear very easily just like the others. I have over 5,000 miles on Sora components. The cables need adjusted just like the cables on high end components also.

Trek has been making a 1000 model for around 20 years. A lot of variation in design, construction, etc. Kind of like a Chevy truck. They have changed a lot over the years. They are all nice bikes.

Go to the vintage Trek site and you can see how many versions they have made. Assuming it is a modern Trek 1000, it will have Sora brifters, mostly Sora components, with a Tiagra rear derailleur. And it will be eight speed bike, with a triple front crankset.

Newer Treks came in centimeter sizing: like a 54cm for example (older ones also used cm sizing, really early models were in standard inch sizes). So I wonder if this bike is one of the modern ones. The seller probably made up the size.

The older ones are fine, but you should expect a lower price (and the older ones will have fewer speeds, and downtube shifters instead of brifters). In 2002, Trek converted this bike from a quill stem to a threadless stem. So if your bike has a quill stem, it is older. And if it has downtube shifters, then it is probably 1992 or older. The vintage Trek site has all the info you will need to ID the year.

I have a 2005 Trek 1000 myself, it has been a solid, reliable entry level road bike.

Just got back. I posted about it here.
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=8286649#post8286649

Thanks for all the comments!

Sora components shift fine for thousands of miles so don't worry about that at all. The shift from gear to gear very easily just like the others. I have over 5,000 miles on Sora components. The cables need adjusted just like the cables on high end components also.

Perhaps I should have mentioned that I rode Sora also and never had a problem. But if I had my choice I would go with 105 or Ultegra. Just my preference, to me, they just seem to shift a bit better. Worry about riding Sora? Not a bit.

The bike I have been riding in better weather (in the snow I use the MTB) is a Trek 1200. It is a 1999 model (nice metalic green color) with full RSX components. It still works just fine, though it isn't nearly as fancy as newer and higher end bikes. The rear shifts rock solid ever time up and down without any hesitation. I have to be careful with the front as it is a bit more moody.

I like my 1000. I did upgrade the wheels and the seat. The front derailleur is starting to go, but she is about 9 years old now.