Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Which Phil Wood hubs will be compatible with a Specialized Langster?

I am taking my Langster back on Saturday to get my wheel looked at and trued if necessary. The salesperson there said it was no problem but if I ended up ordering wheels I would do well to order new hubs with them. So I decided on someone bomb proof Phil Woods. I head over to Phil Woods website and I have no idea what I need. Low flange - High flange - blah blah blah... Here is what I am about to order.

AVL600 Front - 100mm - Bolt axle - Low-Flange 48.2 36 209 $107.00
AVL621 Rear - 120mm - Single fixed - Low-Flange 48.2 36 348 $138.00

OR

AVH600 Front - 100mm - Bolt axle - High-Flange 67.0 36 225 $112.00
AVH621 Rear 120mm - Single fixed - High-Flange 67.0 36 389 $144.00

If I am correct the front hub can be 100mm but the rear must be 120mm? If I am running 36 spokes front and rear can I get away with a low flange to save weight? Or is it still a good idea to run 36/high flange for additional strength. I am 280lbs and 36 spoke mavic ma3's with phils are what was recommended to me. Just unsure of the parts that's all. The fact that Specialized doesn't post all the specs to the Langster doesn't make things easier on the newb. If anyone doesn't mind holding my hand one last time I would be really grateful.

With your size go for the high flange hubs. Besides just looking good they will be stronger. Basically, the less spoke distance the stronger the wheel. I would use a triple cross pattern on both wheels as well. While the Phil hubs are sweet and bulletproof, you might want to check out the CHUB hub. Kinda pricey (a tad over two bills I think) but stiff as f**k from what I've read.

http://www.chubhub.com

Chris

I heard the Langsters run at 802.11a ranges (5GHz) and that Phil Wood hubs are the old 802.11 standard, using 900MHz. Not sure they will work
=]

Dude, your new wheels are going to cost more than the complete bike did!

With your size go for the high flange hubs. Besides just looking good they will be stronger. Basically, the less spoke distance the stronger the wheel. I would use a triple cross pattern on both wheels as well. While the Phil hubs are sweet and bulletproof, you might want to check out the CHUB hub. Kinda pricey (a tad over two bills I think) but stiff as f**k from what I've read.

http://www.chubhub.com

Chris

If I am reading the chub site correctly they are not available with 36 holes/spokes. Definately need the 36 spokes for additional strength.

I would go with the high flange hubs also. They have more metal between spoke holes as compared to low flange hubs. That may be a bonus in your case.

George

Dude, your new wheels are going to cost more than the complete bike did!

Dude I love my bike. When I die I want to be buried with it!

So are we in agreement that I need the following?

2 Mavic MA-3 Rims (36 spoke)
72 stainless steel spokes
1 Phil Woods AVH600 Front - 100mm - Bolt axle - High-Flange 67.0 36 225 $112.00
1 Phil Woods AVH621 Rear 120mm - Single fixed - High-Flange 67.0 36 389 $144.00

This all I need?

So are we in agreement that I need the following?

2 Mavic MA-3 Rims (36 spoke)
72 stainless steel spokes
1 Phil Woods AVH600 Front - 100mm - Bolt axle - High-Flange 67.0 36 225 $112.00
1 Phil Woods AVH621 Rear 120mm - Single fixed - High-Flange 67.0 36 389 $144.00

This all I need?
Need. Such an ethereal word.

Need. Such an ethereal word.

Well.. it is need because my caboose is a little large unfortunately..

Can't ride a bike with weak wheels. That's for sho!

why not get them drilled for 48's and buy some touring rims that have the 48 hole pattern as well. Phil may not make 120 spaced 48 hubs but they might.

phils with open pros

phils with open pros

seconded.

Two things. One, you're in love with a mass produced bike. That plain isn't right. And Two - The hubs aren't the problem.

I think the funny thing is is that by the time you've taken that stock bike and added all the bits you want to add to it.....*BOOM* - coulda bought a better bike in the first place if you'd just saved up for a bit longer.

It sure is a strange old world.

Anyway, get the wheels fixed before you go spending 500 bucks on a set of new wheels already. Just call me 'the Voice of Reason' ;)

So are we in agreement that I need the following?

2 Mavic MA-3 Rims (36 spoke)
72 stainless steel spokes
1 Phil Woods AVH600 Front - 100mm - Bolt axle - High-Flange 67.0 36 225 $112.00
1 Phil Woods AVH621 Rear 120mm - Single fixed - High-Flange 67.0 36 389 $144.00

This all I need?

Nipples unless they come with the spokes. And maybe some rim tape. Don't forget the reflectors as well ;)

Two things. One, you're in love with a mass produced bike. That plain isn't right. And Two - The hubs aren't the problem.

I think the funny thing is is that by the time you've taken that stock bike and added all the bits you want to add to it.....*BOOM* - coulda bought a better bike in the first place if you'd just saved up for a bit longer.

It sure is a strange old world.

Anyway, get the wheels fixed before you go spending 500 bucks on a set of new wheels already. Just call me 'the Voice of Reason' ;)

I am going to get the wheels trued and tightened up. If they still become a problem then I will buy the wheels. Strong quality wheels in my situation are a NEED. Regardless if my bike was free or cost me $2,000 - I need strong wheels. So what if they cost more than the bike? If the bike goes kaput I could always put these wheels on another bike.

As for loving a mass produced bike maybe that is the highest compliment a bike manufacturer can get? I am very fortunate in my situation as some people aren't happy with their bike until they've dropped 3 grand into it. The only issue on this bike is the seat and wheels - that's it. Delighted with the frame and other components.

I can tell you that if I didn't buy this bike a bike with all the doo dads that I probably didn't need in the first place would have run me $500-$1000 more. And probably would have made me more paranoid of riding the bike than enjoying it.

You'll need to send me that rule book on what bikes I can and can't enjoy ;)

Why would you spend all that money on Phil hubs, then use crap rims. You should consider open pro's or CXP 33's.

How much do you weigh? Sounds like you are overbuilding the wheels. This should also help determine what kind of spokes you should use. They are not all the same.

I would go with the fixed/fixed rear hub. You can have a two speed and gives you an extra mount in case you screw up the threads.

You'll need to send me that rule book on what bikes I can and can't enjoy ;)[/QUOTE]

Just go ahead and get what you think will work for you. Disregard the opinions of others about the proper relationship of parts to bike frame price. I own one bike that I got from a dumpster that has Phils, Chris King, Campy, Mavic open pro's, and Brooks parts on it. The parts are probably worth 1000 bucks retail and I think they are appropriate on the bike. Where is it written that you have to spend the least amount of money to enjoy the ride. Probably in the same text that say's you can't enjoy the ride without spending the most amount of money. Ride your own race.


Fixedgearhead

Why would you spend all that money on Phil hubs, then use crap rims. You should consider open pro's or CXP 33's.

How much do you weigh? Sounds like you are overbuilding the wheels. This should also help determine what kind of spokes you should use. They are not all the same.

I would go with the fixed/fixed rear hub. You can have a two speed and gives you an extra mount in case you screw up the threads.

I agree. I will likely go with the open pro's or cxp 33's. I weigh around 280 lbs naked. I am not overbuilding the wheels from my research. I don't think you can find a stronger and more quality hub for less weight that takes 36 spokes than the Phil Wood hub. The Chub Hub sounds very nice but unfortunately doesn't take 36 spokes.

The Rims everyone seems to like the Mavics but I agree I'll do research on the Open Pro's and CXP 33's to be quite honest I don't know the difference between the two. Someone suggested going for a tandem wheel but that might be a little overbuilding? I don't know...

As far as spokes - I'm completely in the dark. I'll probably go the lbs this weekend and pick up a book on wheel building to educate myself about the spoke quality. The idea of stainless steel sounds nice though.

Click here (http://www.bikeforums.net/barnettes/barnetts_ch16.pdf) for decent over view on wheel info. It's all good but for you I would start reading at page 7.

I have never had to build that strong of a wheel but sounds like 36 hole is for you. I am guessing you would also want to use straight 14 gauge spokes also(???).

Click here (http://www.bikeforums.net/barnettes/barnetts_ch16.pdf) for decent over view on wheel info. It's all good but for you I would start reading at page 7.

I have never had to build that strong of a wheel but sounds like 36 hole is for you. I am guessing you would also want to use straight 14 gauge spokes also(???).

Damn! That article is interesting. If I am reading it correctly on page 9 they are saying that the difference in strength between high flange wheels and low flange is insignificant. Do you concur with this?

I agree. I will likely go with the open pro's or cxp 33's. I weigh around 280 lbs naked. I am not overbuilding the wheels from my research. I don't think you can find a stronger and more quality hub for less weight that takes 36 spokes than the Phil Wood hub. The Chub Hub sounds very nice but unfortunately doesn't take 36 spokes.

The Rims everyone seems to like the Mavics but I agree I'll do research on the Open Pro's and CXP 33's to be quite honest I don't know the difference between the two. Someone suggested going for a tandem wheel but that might be a little overbuilding? I don't know...

As far as spokes - I'm completely in the dark. I'll probably go the lbs this weekend and pick up a book on wheel building to educate myself about the spoke quality. The idea of stainless steel sounds nice though.
I have a tandem built up with 36 hole Phil Wood flip/flop and DT Mountain 13/15/14 triple butted spokes laced to MA-3 rims. The butted ends are 13 and 14 gauge and the middle is 15. With my wife and myself onboard that makes for 355 lbs total, including bike. We have never broken a spoke and I never have to re-true them. They are bullet proof. You might consider that as an option. The choice of Open Pros v CPX33 is one between two higher end race oriented rims. I have both and they work on the bikes they are used on and I have never had any problems with either. They are more "Racy", (read sexy) than the MA-3s but I think the box section design of the MA-3 has proven as strong or even stronger, all be it a little heavier. It just depends if you are building for strength or speed. It sound like you are building for strength. All the rims mentioned have eyelet's so they should be equal in that regard. The straight gauge spokes should work also in the 13 size, if you cant find the DT mountain mentioned above. Good luck and let us know your choices.

Fixedgearhead

ON a lighter note -- no one resolved the high flange v. low flange debate.

And lobo had his langster frame crack, which makes Thylacine right *shudders*

ON a lighter note -- no one resolved the high flange v. low flange debate.

And lobo had his langster frame crack, which makes Thylacine right *shudders*

high flange wins based purely on sex appeal

seconded.
Open pros? Dude is 280lbs, he'll destroy open pros. I've done it and I'm only 210lbs. I've got a cxp-30/campy hi flange set up that's wicked stiff.

I heard that Phil Woods will only work with Langsters if they have stash pockets.

End of thread. The Langster is dead. A bike NOT to be ridden by XXL Clydesdale. The wheels were fine but I ruined the frame.

Now on a sturdy Redline Monocog. If wheels give me problems I'll likely go with 48's.

uh.. why are you taunting him with stash pockets? *looks at stibra as though he is a weirdo.. which he is... skit.. bra.... bra bra bra...*