Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Rust is evil

Anybody got any hints on getting a lockring off when it's been through a harsh winter and is rusted tight?

I have a nice DuraAce cog to put on, but I can't do that until I remove the first one... Can't do that with any of the tools at my disposal....

Already tried 3-in-one penetrating oil soaked for about a half hour, then took a razor blade to the connection between the cog and ring. Still wouldn't move....

So your lockring removal tool doesn't work eh?
Try grabbing it with a big huge pair of channel locks?
Normally I'd suggest heating it with a torch to try and get some differential heating going to try and break up the bonds but I'm afraid that would probably do some really bad stuff to the lubrication in the bearings.
Try an auto parts store, they have some stuff (and I know I can't remember it) that you put on overnight to loosen rusted bolts. It's not penetrating oil, it actually chemically changes the rust. I know it works way better than penetrating oil, I've actually used it, but I can't for the life of me remember what it's called. Crap, sorry.

You can try a big pipe wrench if you can't get enough force with a lockring tool. You have to mess around with the adjustment a little to get it to bite, but it works pretty well once you get the hang of it. Also, you are trying to turn it clockwise, right? Did you see Kill Bill 2 yet? The part where Pai Mei punches through the board from three inches away? You have to channel your energy and the lockring will wilt at your hand. :)

-Jason

A whole winter of riding on salted roads, eh?

IMO Liquid Wrench is better than 3 in 1.

Only 1/2 hour of soaking? :roflmao:

Also, once you have soaked it in the penetrating oil, etc, don't just try to turn the wrench. Sometimes you have to "shock" it off. Like, hit it real hard. The impact will sometimes break the seal. Before you do this, make sure you are going the right direction. Sounds stupid, I know, but I've gone the wrong way before and felt real dumb.

I was having the same prob earlier. Figure out a way to use the wheel as the lever instead of your wrench/spanner. I ended up using my neighbor's workbench clamp. Or a cheater bar. Either way leverage it off. I found all the penetrating oil did nothin' for me.

For future reference. My LBS uses Tenacious Oil on their lockrings and they always seem to seize up. I use tons of grease with no probs. good luck

jeff

Hit it with a few sprays of PB Blaster... its pretty much the only penetrant that actually works. Then, secure the lockring with the removal tool and a chainwhip. TIGHTEN the lockring, or attempt to... just a click if you can get it to. Then flip the chainwhip get some good leverage on there with the removal tool and smack the end of the handle of the tool/wrench with a hammer until it starts to move. I can pretty much guarantee this will work. Works all the time with car parts exposed to the midwest winter salt, and used it a few times on stuck bike parts myself.

Oh and in the future use ANTI SEIZE on the lockring! It works better than grease.

Thanks - I'll see what works this weekend. I'm not too concerned with destroying the lubricant inside the hub - it needs to be pulled apart and re-packed anyway (clicking is driving me insane)

Eventually (hopefully soon) the whole wheel is getting replaced, but it's the only fix I've got that's not tubular and I'm kind of broke...

As Seely said, PB Blaster. If you can find it, Kroil. Used it to lossen a seized seatpost when nothing else would work.

Dave

Rust Eater... similar products - I got a can when I was trying to get the caliper bolts off my car to change the pads and rotors... glad I have the can now... spray it on, wait some minutes, try again... sounds like similar has already been suggested. Once you get it off though - steel wool it all I suggest... light steel wool.