Bicycle Mechanics - elongating tread on a suspension fork

found a good deal on a RST suspension (brand new, still in th air tight wrap) for only 45$

It may not be the best of suspension fork but for my spare bike it is enough (reason im changing the surrent one is it does bottom out and its a non servicable fork)

theres only a little problem, the treaded part isnt long enough for the head tube lenght, would i be better to retread the fork, add spacers on top of the upper headset cup or verify if i can use my curent for treaded tube ?

im at a loss here

Can we have some pictures of this as I've never heard of a threaded suspension fork. I thought they there all either 1 /18" or 1 1/2" threadless.

Can we have some pictures of this as I've never heard of a threaded suspension fork. I thought they there all either 1 /18" or 1 1/2" threadless.

I've seen several.

Assuming you mean that the threads don't go far enough down the steerer, you need to have threads cut. There is no good way to space a threaded headset that I've ever encountered.

Assuming you mean that the threads don't go far enough down the steerer, you need to have threads cut. There is no good way to space a threaded headset that I've ever encountered.

+1- try to locate a shop that can do this- no big deal, if they have the proper tool.

I've seen several.

Must have been before my time then. Learn something new everyday.

One other issue. You might run into a problem getting the keyway cut as I'm assuming it only goes to the bottom of the existing threads.

I've got hand dies for cutting additional threads onto fork steerers so I've actually done it. Adding additional threads isn't too technical but it is physical work. How much additional threaded length do you need?

After you get the additional threads cut you'll probably want to cut the excess length off of your steerer. Measure twice and cut once. The only bike mechanics I know who won't claim having cut at least 1 steerer too short are all liars. And don't be tempted to cut it to length before you get the additional threads cut. Extending a thread is one thing, starting a new thread is something else entirely.

I wouldn't worry about extending the key way if your fork has one. Just use a headset washer without the tongue and hold the upper race with a headset wrench while you tighten the lock nut.

Must have been before my time then. Learn something new everyday.

Naa, just not that common, so you prolly just haven't come across one. My LBS has two used RockShox ones hanging on the wall though, so I know they're out there. That said, even I can't recall seeing one on a bike anytime recently. And I prolly have a few years on ya :)

-R

just for a little information I got the bike when i was in 6th grade so back in 1998 maybe it explains the treaded fork

I got a price for a die , they are hella expensive almost 40$ while getting it done by a machine shop is less than 10$

oh yeah and about cutting it, ill measure the old one, install in frame, measure again, install the bolt which holds it in place, re measure than cut

past experience with exhaust and adapter plates and roll cage cut too short on my old rally car made me aware of the measure twice cut once saying!