Bicycle Mechanics - Handlbar finishing tape...

Any recommendations for a good handlebar finishing tape. That stuff they give you w/ new wrap is usually great. It sticks forever. But if I don't have that stuff all I've ever had to use was electrical tape which sucks because the glue doesn't stick long and it melts in the heat. Anybody found anything else that works better than electrical tape for finishing bars? Thanks!

use 3M electrical tape which doesn't have that sticky residue.

You might stop by a marine supply store and look at rigging tape. It is used on sailboat to wrap standing rigging, lines, etc to prevent chafing. It will be expensive though.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=506552&highlight=shrink+heat

You might also consider wrapping the handlebars from the area of the stem down. This is the way most of us did it "back in the day." The wrapping of handlebars from the ends up, and finishing with tape of some variety, is a recent innovation. The plus side is it looks better without the glob of tape around the top of the bars. Done correctly, it doesn't come loose as some would claim.

Big heat shrink tubing is a good bet and comes in many colors. Almost as good is to cut an inch of old 28-32mm inner tube and stretch it over the tape when done. The problem with both of these is you have to remember to slip them on the bars before putting the levers on. You can also join the whole grant petersen cult and use cotton twine and shellac ...

What is this finishing tape you speak of? They always give me tape and a little piece of extra wrap,where are they suppose to go? I guess if you wrap your tape backward,you need it?

Doesn't cost that much...from $2.00-$5.00 a roll, unless you want that carbon look tape. Just do a search or go down to your local LBS. Here's one place:
http://branfordbike.com/itemdetails.cfm?id=814

What is this finishing tape you speak of? They always give me tape and a little piece of extra wrap,where are they suppose to go? I guess if you wrap your tape backward,you need it?

If you wrap the tape correctly you need to finish it off with adhesive tape.

If you wrap the bars starting at the bottom and working toward the stem then the tape will stay on the bars better, and when you slide your hands down to the drops or flats you do not peel up the edges.

This makes no difference with some tape (like thin plastic tape) but is now generally considered the 'correct' way to wrap bars. If you plan ahead and the bar tape and adhesive tape are cut carefully and properly it can look very clean. If finishing the wrap job is an afterthought or done carelessly then it will look shabby and the electrical tape will put sticky residue on your hands.

when wrapping from the bottom to the top, do you guys wrap out-to-in or in-to-out? does it make a difference?

when wrapping from the bottom to the top, do you guys wrap out-to-in or in-to-out? does it make a difference?

I've been using the Advanced Tips direction from the park tool site.

~Start wrapping from the bottom
~Wrap tape so that it rotates away from the bike when it comes over the top of the bar . (CCW on left bar and CW on right bar)
~Reverse direction at the shifters/brakes.

This method ensures that your hands are always tightening the wrap.

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=71#tips

Thx all

got it.
thanks fetad

I've been using the Advanced Tips direction from the park tool site.

~Start wrapping from the bottom
~Wrap tape so that it rotates away from the bike when it comes over the top of the bar . (CCW on left bar and CW on right bar)
~Reverse direction at the shifters/brakes.

This method ensures that your hands are always tightening the wrap.

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=71#tips

I think maybe you mis-typed? From the web page you linked to:

"The direction of the wrap may also effect how it retains it tightness on the bar. Generally, it is the habit of cyclist to pull back on their hands when riding on the top section of the bars. By noting this, you can wrap so this habit will be self-tightening on the tape. Looking from the rider's point of view (from the back of the bike) wrap each side the tape rotates inward from the top. In other words, wrap the right bar counter-clockwise and the left bar clockwise."

Any recommendations for a good handlebar finishing tape. That stuff they give you w/ new wrap is usually great. It sticks forever. But if I don't have that stuff all I've ever had to use was electrical tape which sucks because the glue doesn't stick long and it melts in the heat. Anybody found anything else that works better than electrical tape for finishing bars? Thanks!

If you use good electrical tape (like the aforementioned 3M branded version), and trim down the outer end into a long triangle (so that the last bit of sticky tape to wrap on comes to a tip), there shouldn't be any unwinding and exposed adhesive. You also need to tension the tape but not excessively.

Or you can spend $10 and get a cleaner solution (http://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/item/BKCLJZAA). Too bad they discontinued the white color.

I think maybe you mis-typed? From the web page you linked to:

"The direction of the wrap may also effect how it retains it tightness on the bar. Generally, it is the habit of cyclist to pull back on their hands when riding on the top section of the bars. By noting this, you can wrap so this habit will be self-tightening on the tape. Looking from the rider's point of view (from the back of the bike) wrap each side the tape rotates inward from the top. In other words, wrap the right bar counter-clockwise and the left bar clockwise."

I stated that I'm following direction from the Advanced Tips section. That's further down the page. The general installation they give, for which you have quoted, results in a self-tightening wrap only when the hands are placed on top of the bar.

In the Advanced Tips section they suggest an alternate method allowing self-tightening to occur when in the drops and when on the tops. Thinking in terms of the left side of the bar only, this results in CCW in the drop and CW on the top. Vice versa for the right side. This is accomplished by switching the direction of the wrap at the brakes/shifters.

and what if there are no brakes/hoods/shifters (cross lever brakes)? should one follow "wrap the right bar counter-clockwise and the left bar clockwise" even if hands will be both on the tops and drops equally?