Commuting - Newbie

Looking to start commuting, and would like some advice on purchasing a bike, i.e. what sort of bike, and best way of getting cheap bikes. It's a road only journey, and if I use my bike on weekends, it will be on firm surfaces.

I looked at a Cannondale Badboy. Is this a good idea?

Looking to start commuting, and would like some advice on purchasing a bike, i.e. what sort of bike, and best way of getting cheap bikes. It's a road only journey, and if I use my bike on weekends, it will be on firm surfaces.

I looked at a Cannondale Badboy. Is this a good idea?

Try looking at the "commuter bicycle pics" at the top of the page. You'll see what kind of bikes people use for their commutes.

I use an MTB with slick tires for my 12.5 mile round-trip commute that is 95% road, 5% bike trail. I find the upright position, cushy tires, and flat bars to be good (for me) when dealing with light-to-moderate traffic, potholes, etc. Other people prefer multi-geared or single speed road bikes with drop handlebars and narrow tires.

If I had to commute a greater distance, say 25 miles a day, I would either switch to very narrow MTB tires (I currently use 1.75") or use a road bike with 700x28 tires, for example.

The Bad Boy with the solid fork looks like a very good bike, maybe designed for urban riding. The higher levels models with suspension and disc brakes might be overkill. I guess it depends on how smooth your roads and how steep your hills are.

I'd guess you could spend less and get a lower-priced MTB with narrow tires and get around as well, or a sport touring road bike. Some people swear by e-bay or going to the Salvation Army stores for used bikes.

How many miles/kms is your commute going to be?

What's your budget? If you don't already own them, don't forget to allow money for a helmet, some basic spares (tubes, tire pump, tire levers, multi-tool), and perhaps some bike-specific clothing (lycra padded bike shorts, for example).

Cheap bikes are available at thrift stores. It really, really helps to know your frame size and a bit about bike construction and components before you dive into the old bike market, however.

I largely commute on the following:

1976 Peugeot UO10, with panniers and a trailer hitch. Used for hauling the big loads.

1984 Trek 850 MTB, modified for rain with fenders.

1984 Trek 560 road bike, longer trips

1973 Puegeot PX10E, converted to fixed gear, used for bumming about and regular commutes.

The most expensive of these was about eighty bucks, and the first three were 35$ apiece. Obviously, there were other expenses, such as new tires, tubes, and the occasional wheel build.

Look for lugged, double butted steel framesets.

When you commute regularly, it really helps to have a 2nd bike for backup. That way you aren't under pressure when repairs are needed plus it solves the problem of a flat when its time to leave. Don

Thanks for the advice. My commute is quite short, about 7 miles each way. Budget is upto 500 GBP (800 USD).

What's a sport touring road bike? is it like a sturdy version of a racing bike, drop handles, etc?

Thanks for the advice. My commute is quite short, about 7 miles each way. Budget is upto 500 GBP (800 USD).

What's a sport touring road bike? is it like a sturdy version of a racing bike, drop handles, etc?

Yes, that's a sport tourer. Often has a triple crank up front to provide lower gears.

The requirements for a reliable all-weather UK commuting bike are:
medium gearing for the road.
slick medium-width tyres with good puncture-proofing.
the ability to fit luggage rack and mud-guards.
You can do this with "roadified" MTB, a hybrid, sport-touring bike or a proper touring bike.
You may have a reputable local bike shop (LBS) selling used bikes. Some shops have a reputation for dealing in stolen goods or poor service. Check out charity shops, newspapers, and adds in shop windows. Your local bike clubs may have members wanting to sell.
In addition to the bike, you should budget for helmet and goves, windproof and waterproof tops. At 7 miles you may want bike shorts or padded underwear, but the distance is bordeline for these. Carry your stuff in a pannier bag on a lugagge rack.
Clipless pedals and special cycling shoes are expensive and not neccessary, but toe-clips will enable you to be safer and more efficient than plain pedals for a few £.

I wouldn't trust anything with a Cannondale Headshok farther than I could throw it... no one is authorized to work on them except Cannondale anymore, and they seem to break very frequently and repairs seem to sketchy or impossible in some cases... have a few friends with C'dales that are now gathering dust b/c the headshok is "no longer servicable" or it just got too expensive for them.

I think the best bike for your commute is a fixed gear mountain bike. It should be easy to get and cheap. I am riding about your distance everyday and using this kind of bike. No gear save u from a lot of problem.

Looking to start commuting, and would like some advice on purchasing a bike, i.e. what sort of bike, and best way of getting cheap bikes. It's a road only journey, and if I use my bike on weekends, it will be on firm surfaces.

I looked at a Cannondale Badboy. Is this a good idea?

I have the badboy w/out the headshok and love it. I commuted all last year on it. If you are leaning towards a cannondale, I would be more inclined to look at the badboy 50/50 or the Street series, both of which are only available in Europe. I can't figure out why the sweet bikes are not available here. Cannondales are pricy though and I doubt they would ever be concidered a cheap bike (I am biased though).

I think the best bike for your commute is a fixed gear mountain bike. It should be easy to get and cheap. I am riding about your distance everyday and using this kind of bike. No gear save u from a lot of problem.

yeah I'm with you, for me i stick with mountain bike it's such a multitask bike...

by the way hi! good to find someone from the same region here... :)

I just use a 2004 Diamonback Outlook with 2.00" semi-slick tires (Serfas Drifter puncture-resistant), and put a tire liner in as well for extra puncture resistance. not the lightest bike, but it's reliable and the tires do make a difference on over the XC tires that come stock on it (Kenda Klaw).

For any kind of sreeious commuting, consdier geting some method to attatch your foot to teh pedal. Whether it be half clips, toe clips, or the ever popular clipless style, it's worth your time to purchase a set and learn to use them. I use hald clips myself. I use an alloy "bear-trap" style pedal to grip the bottom of my shoe while inthe clips, giving me a feel that's jsut a bit closer to regular toe clips. I can do some rather nice speeds with this layout.

ALso look at a seat. A good seat is crucial for anything longer than 10 miles each way. More padding does not always = better. Properly placed padding can be better, but just bulky padding is always a cue for pain. Look at your butt...it's basically two rounded objects...now what you need is a seat that allows for proper leg extension while giving you a place to cushion what of it is on the saet without making much contact with anything that is not a "sit bone"....usually the perinium (known to some as the "taint") in men is a common source of pain while riding on a bike with an improper or maladjusted seat.

Handles...agian padded does not always = better. I have cusioned grips myself...but it's not that foam type it's got very soft slilicone nubs all over. It does the job without putting excess pressure in the middle of my palm (another common source of pain for cyclists). Another tip is to change your grip as you ride. This helps keep your hands from felling as sore or as numb. If you ahve a road bike, your drop bars have plenty of spots to grab. For a mtn bike, usually people buy bull bars for that prupose.

Oh...don't forget string/velcro/rubber bands for your pant leg if you ride in your work clothes....most folks look down on pants with designer colorations by Shimano :p