Touring - Brooks Saddle for big man

I am looking at buying a Brooks- Just wondering what is best for a large man, 6'2 250 lbs. I am riding a recently purchased Randonee. I plan on being more of a credit card tourer for now and I ride with the seat even to just above the bars. I am looking at the B17 or B68 without springs. Thanks

I am looking at buying a Brooks- Just wondering what is best for a large man, 6'2 250 lbs. I am riding a recently purchased Randonee. I plan on being more of a credit card tourer for now and I ride with the seat even to just above the bars. I am looking at the B17 or B68 without springs. Thanks

I can't say what's best, but I do know that I'm about your size (a bit bigger), and rode 2000 miles down the west coast last year on a B17. I did have pain, but no numbnuts (a problem w/ every other saddle I've owned), and that might be as good as a big guy can expect with long slow miles in the saddle.

I should add that I laced up the bottom (to add stiffness) after the first 500 miles or so (this was prior to the west coast ride).

You also might like the Brooks Flyer model which is the same as a B-17 but with springs added. I have one and love it.

I am 5'11" and about 270lbs...I ride a B17 and so far, other than the break in period, it has been fine....

You also might like the Brooks Flyer model which is the same as a B-17 but with springs added. I have one and love it.

My suggestion:thumb: I am 6'-2" right around 210#. With the riding position on the Randonee you will want a narrower saddle than the B68. The B68 is for a more upright riding position. I have a Flyer on order for my touring bike. I have been using a Wrights 3N which is very similar to the B17N. However I want the springs and a slightly wider top, so the Flyer is my choice. As far as break in, I have never had an issue with it but that is probably just me.

Aaron:)

Get the B17 Championship Special. It has thicker leather -- and looks nicer with the hammered copper rivets -- so it will hold up better. My brother is your size and he has B17s on all of his bikes. The regular B17 has thinner leather and might not hold up as well given your size.

Get the B17 Championship Special. It has thicker leather -- and looks nicer with the hammered copper rivets -- so it will hold up better. My brother is your size and he has B17s on all of his bikes. The regular B17 has thinner leather and might not hold up as well given your size.


I don't think that this is correct and have both models. The leather thickness in both are the same and the only difference is the larger copper rivets. Since Brooks was taken over by Selle, the thickness of the leather within models has been more consistent in thickness whereas before, two saddles of the same model could vary in thickness as I have found to my cost.

Let me jump in this thread. I'm also considering the purchase of a Brooks, and for many of the same reasons the OP is considering one. I ride very upright. Any recommendations?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3126/2579902179_ac67696d31_b.jpg

Check the Wallbike website. It's got very good factual (vs opinionated) information that'll help you make up your mind.

Mister History! Whistle AND bell?? Jaywalkers beware!

I don't think that this is correct and have both models. The leather thickness in both are the same and the only difference is the larger copper rivets. Since Brooks was taken over by Selle, the thickness of the leather within models has been more consistent in thickness whereas before, two saddles of the same model could vary in thickness as I have found to my cost.

Perhaps they have changed, but in my experience the Champion Specials have thicker leather than the regular B17s, which is one reason why they are more expensive. In the past, I compared both models side by side, and the CS definitely had thicker leather.

Have any of you heard, that the rails break on the swift easier than the B17 or the Pro.

Have any of you heard, that the rails break on the swift easier than the B17 or the Pro.

I have been riding a Swift Ti for a couple years, and am on my second one.
I wouldn't worry about the rails; The Ti nose is what broke in the first one.
I am 190 pounds.

I'm 6'1" 250 and I use B17s, B17 Champion Specials, Team Professionals, Swifts and Imperials on my bikes. You can't go wrong with a B17/Imperial (170mm wide) for the most part, but depending upon your actual sit bone width and riding position, you may prefer a Team Pro (160mm wide) or Swift (150mm wide).

My B17s are the most comfy, followed by the Swift, then the Team Pro...for what it's worth.

3 of my saddles have Ti rails...no problems with them.

Perhaps they have changed, but in my experience the Champion Specials have thicker leather than the regular B17s, which is one reason why they are more expensive. In the past, I compared both models side by side, and the CS definitely had thicker leather.

You may well be right but then I've only been using Brooks saddles for nearly forty years.

This thickness of the leather stuff is an old wives tale that takes advantage of wide tolerances in the leather used to make ALL their saddles. One of my B17s has thicker leather than my Champion Specials, Team pro and Swift....so I guess I can claim that B17s are thicker, right? :lol:

If I recall, Andrea Maganini from Brooks even debunked this nonsense when he participated here during our testing of the Imperial.

Hey Historian, with the upright posture, you will like the B-17.

Once you get it set so you don't slide fore or aft, and can't feel the nose, it will be a joy to ride.

Mine took 1000 miles to break in to me - and I'm not giving it up for anything...

You may well be right but then I've only been using Brooks saddles for nearly forty years.

I don't mean to be picky, but your qualification depends entirely on which Brooks saddles you've been using for forty years...

I owned regular B-17's and then last year bought some B-17 Champion Specials and didn't notice any difference in leather thickness. But to the original question---I'm 6'2" and weigh more than 250 lbs, and I've never had a problem with Brooks B-17 (regular or Champion Special) longevity. For me they're not uncomfortable right out of the box, but after they break in they're much better. A well-used Brooks still in good condition should be treated as a family heirloom.

Any opinion on the B66, folks? I now have one. How long to break it in?

Any opinion on the B66, folks? I now have one. How long to break it in?

Few miles to a few hundred;) FWIW I bought a brand new B67 for my city bike and it was almost perfect right out of the box (100% improvement over the stock Velo Ploosh) I usually give them ~100 miles before I consider them broken in.

Aaron:)

Hi,
6-4, 210 lbs. First, the issues about leather thickness have to do with, I believe, the fact that it's a natural material, naturally prone to variation. I ride a Champion Flyer (B17 with springs) and a B17 Champion Special. The latter is just gorgeous -- copper rails and big, hand-hammered copper rivets. It's on the fixed-gear for rides mostly under 30 miles. The Flyer is on the tourer. You won't feel the springs bobbing as you climb or just spin along. It's when you are inattentive and hit a pothole that the springs take the edge off. The weight penalty is worth it.

Historian: looking at your photo, I see you've got flat bars on the bike and they appear to be set quite close to the saddle. You might be wise to look at a wider Brooks. The rule of thumb: the more upright, the more weight on the cheeks and the wider saddle.

While my Champ Special came from IRO ($60!!!) I'd have to recommend Wallingford. First, the shop is the most experienced U.S. Brooks dealer. Second, the iron-clad exchange after you ride warrantee makes it a no-risk proposition.

Once upon a time, I rode a Concor saddle. After going to a Fizik pave for a few thousand miles, a return to the Concor felt like a ride on the narrow edge of a two-by-four. Now, the Brooks spoilt me for anything else. My friends on their Italian saddles may make a crack or two about the weight of the Brooks, but I just keep smiling.

Here's a fact that occurred to my wife a week ago, after I swapped her stem for one 2 cm shorter: when your cockpit -- bars, stem, saddle and saddle height -- are dialed in to where you are most comfortable, you'll be more efficient. I'm not talking about racers riding the drops on bars 3-4 inches below saddle deck, but real riding in real conditions. Comfort equals speed. It's like the owner of my LBS was saying recently: as he's grown older, he's inched his bars up and back and the effect has been that he'll ride the drops for 30 miles, rather than jumping back and forth from the drops to the hoods. The result: more efficiency.

I don't need to say it in the touring forum, but most -- not all -- of the U.S. riders out in team kit with bikes painted up to look like TDF models are indulging in fantasies not unlike those of young men in Honda Civics with great big spoilers and lots of stickers on the windows.

Be comfortable, have fun, and RIDE!

My commuter bike is a Surly Crosscheck with Xtracycle attachment and a Brooks B17. My long distance bike is a Surly LHT with a Selle Anatomica. Switched the B17 off the LHT onto the commuter and wish I hadn't. At 6'5" & 230 pounds, the B17 is the ONLY saddle I've ever ridden that hasn't given me saddle sores or soreness. The break-in period for me was mostly learning how to position the tilt & front/back position for the B17. That stupid Anatomica may be a wonderful saddle for some but it doesn't compare with Brooks in my experience.

But then, ChipCom has 30 years' experience so I guess my chiming in doesn't really count...:rolleyes:

Woody