Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Sheared Off My Lockring / I.D. This hub Please

Wow WTF, I was slowing down... NOT skidding tonight and my f'ing lockring popped off...
The wheel / hub is only about 6 weeks old. Does this happen alot?
Can anyone I.D. what brand hub this is?

Thanks, Jake
http://www.jakerock.com/images/SHEARED_LOCKRING.JPG

http://www.jakerock.com/images/SHEARED_LOCKRING.JPG1

http://www.jakerock.com/images/IDALEXHUB.JPG

Is this what happens when I make fun of cycling caps? Jesus!

Did you check before you started off today if the lockring was snug?

Looks like a basic Formula/Dimension hub to me, should be able to find a lockring at your lbs.

Lockrings usually strip off because of improper installation.

Looks like a basic Formula hub to me, should be able to find a lockring at your lbs.

Lockrings usually strip off because of improper installation.

What would constitute improper installation? I put it on myself... Im sure that I didnt cross thread it or anything. Thanks for the I.D. on the hub!

The cog and lockring have to be screwed on very tight, and after a couple of rides the lockring should be checked and tightened down again if needed, just incase the cog got threaded on further from riding.

OK... thanks. I guess I didnt do anything weird then...
I even made sure to hand tighten the lockring on there (at first) to avoid cross threading...
Tighened the lockring (with a proper lockring tool) a a couple of times on the first ride. I ride in the city so I stop / skip / skid / backpedal ALOT, and if anything was loose I would have noticed and tightened it up.

Unfortunately, I just took the cog off and had a look... Its definately the lockring threads ON THE HUB that are stripped. The threads on the lockring itself are fine. Goddamnit.

What are they gonna say down at BikeWorks?
The hub should be stronger than this right?
Like I said before, the thing is only like 5/6 weeks old!

AAAARRRGGHH!
Thanks again for the help / answers
-Jake

It even looks like the hub threads are shot in that picture. Fortunately, it looks like your hub is fixed/fixed, yes? Flip it over, install everything carefully, and tighten it down really well, and you should be in good shape. It can take a little practice to get the cog and lockring just right, and it's definitely worth checking periodically through several rides after installation.

By the way, are you using a chainwhip and lockring tool?

My money's going on Joytech Hub. Consider it effectively a Formula/Dimension/Nashbar/Iro/Kinda-sorta-not-really-Surly.

At least you have a fixed-thread on the flip, so consider yourself lucky that you have a second chance.

I'm too doped up on Lortabs to walk you through a proper installation, haha.

Unfortunately, the other side is fried from my first attempt at switching a cog, when I didnt know that the lockring was reverse threaded... I got it off alright, but killed that side of the hub obviously.
Due to this incident, I have taken it easy / deliberately with the other side...
Please let me know if you see anything wrong with my install ation procedure:

1. Screw on cog / mount on bike / tighten by jumping on the pedals...
2. Remove wheel, screw lockring on counter clockwise (by hand until it meets the cog)
3. Tighten lockring with lockring tool
4. Ride around, tighten lockring (repeat)

Seems logical to me... did I forget anything?
I always know when the lockring isnt tight after I change a cog cause I can feel it slip when I try to skid... IS THIS THE PROBLEM?

...from skidding when the lockring isnt tight enough initially? Is that little bit of high torque back spin from the cog enough to strip the lockring threads on the hub a little?

I havent felt it slip at all lately and like I said, I am constantly decelerating and skip stopping when riding here in in city traffic...

CRAP... Crap. Im gonna have to buy a new wheel tomorrow.

CRAP... Maybe its from skidding when the lockring isnt tight enough initially?
...That little bit of high torque back spin from the cog is enought to strip the lockring a little? Crap. Im gonna have to buy a new wheel tomorrow.

That's most likely what happened.

Try this (http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm) method for tightening the cog, works much more effectively than jumping on the pedals.

You have to grease both the cog and cockring liberally.

If you can source a very similar hub you can just switch it over and re-build the wheel.

That's most likely what happened.

Try this (http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm) method for tightening the cog, works much more effectively than jumping on the pedals.

Thanks alot for that link Mitch... Thats a really cool hack for tightening the cog on!
Live and learn I guess... darn.

Best to all!
-Jake

You have to grease both the cog and cockring liberally.

If you can source a very similar hub you can just switch it over and re-build the wheel.


Yeah... I will probably buy a new wheel tomorrow cause I cant stand to be without the bike right now!
I suppose the "lemonade" to come from this lemon of a situation is that I can try and learn to build a wheel!! Thanks Peabody...
-Jake

http://www.misers.org/pictures/SomethingAwful/20050920-lol/lmaonade.gif

Someone wasn't watching close enough. LOL.

Ouch.
http://projectebola.typepad.com/photos/goddamn_funny_pictures/ouch.jpg

You have to grease both the cog and cockring liberally.

If you can source a very similar hub you can just switch it over and re-build the wheel.

Heh heh... Freudian slip?

And remember... don't make fun of cyclings caps anymore.

:)

Yeah... I will probably buy a new wheel tomorrow cause I cant stand to be without the bike right now!
I suppose the "lemonade" to come from this lemon of a situation is that I can try and learn to build a wheel!! Thanks Peabody...
-Jake

You can't even install a lockring properly. Perhaps this is not the best idea in the world.

nova/joy/dimension hub

You have to grease both the cog and cockring liberally.

If you can source a very similar hub you can just switch it over and re-build the wheel.

+1 on the grease.

You can't even install a lockring properly. Perhaps this is not the best idea in the world.

http://img10.glitterfy.com/graphics/135/i_love_you.gif

I agree it was probably the lack of grease. You probably didn't get the cog on tight enough in the first place

http://img10.glitterfy.com/graphics/135/i_love_you.gif

I'm sure you'll probably have some sort of clever/humorous/sarcastic image to reply to this with but I'll give it a shot anyways. Jabba's right, if you don't know what direction the threads travel on a hub and you're using techniques like jumping on pedals to tighten down cogs maybe you shouldn't be building wheels yet.

I agree it was probably the lack of grease. You probably didn't get the cog on tight enough in the first place

Thanks el Twitcho... will definitely get some grease.

I'm sure you'll probably have some sort of clever/humorous/sarcastic image to reply to this with but I'll give it a shot anyways. Jabba's right, if you don't know what direction the threads travel on a hub and you're using techniques like jumping on pedals to tighten down cogs maybe you shouldn't be building wheels yet.

1. I DO know what direction the threads travel, in fact it will be hard for me to forget it at this point since it caused me to ruin 1/2 a hub two weeks ago.

2. Thanks to Mitch, I now see a better way to tighten the cog onto the hub.

3. Part of bicycling (for me) is wrenches, and I dont mind making mistakes. So I probably will go ahead and build a wheel.

4. I think my sarcasm / funny hats / photos are no worse than name calling, negativity and discouragement.

http://www.inkidesign.com/thumbs/image-thankyou3.gif

Ouch.
http://projectebola.typepad.com/photos/goddamn_funny_pictures/ouch.jpg

http://img10.glitterfy.com/graphics/135/i_love_you.gif

Someone really likes using Google Image search!

whats wrong with the other side of the hub?

1. I now know what direction the threads travel, because i needlessly ruined 1/2 a hub two weeks ago.

2. Thanks to mitch, i now see a better way to tighten the cog onto the hub.

3. Part of bicycling (for me) is wrenches, and i dont mind recklessly pretending to be a mechanic. So i probably will go ahead and build a wheel.

4. I think my smug d0uchebaggery is no worse than name calling, negativity and discouragement.

http://www.inkidesign.com/thumbs/image-thankyou3.gif

ftfy

Before you kill yourself or someone else.

http://www.parktool.com/
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/
and
http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1884737706

it seems like you have a lot to read. be careful and take your time. i had a wheel stolen, and though i wanted to build my wheel quickly, doing right was by far the priority.

whats wrong with the other side of the hub?

He already ****ered them up crossthreading a lockring.

I know it's all about trial & error, but these are costly mistakes you're making. I can see your wheelbuild exploding like a hand grenade. If you do this, at least have a professional check it out before you ride on it.

The guy wants to learn more about bikes, why discourage him? How else would one learn to build a wheel other than by building one?

Of course, getting it checked out by someone who knows what they are doing afterward would be a prudent thing to do. As would doing a lot of reading first. I have learned from experience that spoke nipples do not loosen in the direction that I intuitively thought they would ;)

well if you're not going to switch out your cog that often, would threadlocker (i.e. loctite) fix this? i recently did the same thing but i applied red loctite and it holds up to a small amount of hopping but i havent done any skidding because i was afriad that the red loctite isnt strong enough~ whats the torque in psi are our legs when we skid? (say 48x16 ratio)

let me know! <3

I use red loctite on suicide hubs... it has to be torched to get it to release and I have never had one come loose. (Buut you have to do this right).

Blue loctite responds to increased machanical force and is good for things you don't want coming loose due to vibration like fender and rack bolts, brake posts, etc.

1. I DO know what direction the threads travel, in fact it will be hard for me to forget it at this point since it caused me to ruin 1/2 a hub two weeks ago.

The past 3 weeks, I have gone through 5 sealed bearing units in my rear hub. So I've gotten pretty good at replacing them.

Could it be that the hub is simply a cheap hub? If one has to I.D. the hub it may be a no name that simply doesn't stand up to a quality name brand hub. Not sayin it in a bad way but u get what you pay for. We all start somewhere in our budget. Replaceing the hub with a better quality one would prevent this in the future. On a fixied gear the drivetrain is so much more important than a freewheeled bike.

The past 3 weeks, I have gone through 5 sealed bearing units in my rear hub. So I've gotten pretty good at replacing them.

You're doing it wrong.

Could it be that the hub is simply a cheap hub? If one has to I.D. the hub it may be a no name that simply doesn't stand up to a quality name brand hub. Not sayin it in a bad way but u get what you pay for. We all start somewhere in our budget. Replaceing the hub with a better quality one would prevent this in the future. On a fixied gear the drivetrain is so much more important than a freewheeled bike.

Formulas are just fine and they're inexpensive. If you don't thread things on properly there's a good chance you'd srip even a Phil Wood hub.

Could it be that the hub is simply a cheap hub? If one has to I.D. the hub it may be a no name that simply doesn't stand up to a quality name brand hub. Not sayin it in a bad way but u get what you pay for. We all start somewhere in our budget. Replaceing the hub with a better quality one would prevent this in the future. On a fixed gear the drivetrain is so much more important than a freewheeled bike.

I would have to bet that I ride more than most of you, ride harder than most of you, and put my bike through more hell than most of you... I base this on my work (messenger), the miles I lay down (about 10,000 / yr), and the fact I ride 12 months of the year in the frozen north.

I also work as a bike mechanic so I see all kinds of stuff.

With that being said... I am running Formula hubs which deliver some good bang for the buck and seem to hold up really well for myself and for the folks I have built wheels for.

I can't afford to have my bike failing as although I have a spare, the time it takes to get it costs money.

If you get a Surly or a better hub and don't install the cog and lock ring properly you will F it up and I have seen professional mechanics completely bork people's hubs too.

It pays to know how to do this yourself as it will save you money and time and then when things do go to hell you know who to blame.

traab - The drive train on a fixed gear is no different from that on a geared bike in that you have to take care of it and geared drives take a lot more care and attention. Fixed is simple... just make sure the cog and lock ring are tight and you're good to go and check it regularly.
...

And for those of you that can't stop bickering over nothing... go for a ride and come back when you're feeling more amicable.

I am sure this thread will still be going strong unless we have hit the point where the topic changes to chicks and tattoos...

:D

Formulas are just fine and they're inexpensive. If you don't thread things on properly there's a good chance you'd srip even a Phil Wood hub.

i hope you arent trying to suggest that this may be due to user error. it has to be that cheap garbage formula makes!

I have seen more Surly hubs come in to my shop all fubar'd than I have anything else... they must be crap.

:rolleyes:

Moderator's note.

I am only going to tidy things up once.

:notamused: