Cyclocross - Toe Overlap with CX frames

I am shopping/hunting for a CX frame that will primarily be used for winter training and at least a test of commuting (25mi one way), and just maybe might try a cross race next season.

My focus though is a winter training bike, with full fenders. My concern is toe overlap. Modern frames seem to simply ignore this issue, and I have done some research (asked around, searched threads here) and most people seem to answer that it isn't an issue. But I have pretty severe overlap on my carbon road frame, and I think it is a big issue -- I haven't gone down yet, but there have been many low speed maneuvers where I had a little "oops" moment. So despite what I am hearing, I still want to minimize toe overlap on a CX bike, especially since it will have full fenders most of the time. Are there some frames that are particularly better on this point than others, or do I have to back out the geometry from the typical frame specification?

What size frame are you expecting to use?

Michael

Only time I notice it on my cross bikes is when I have large tires on them and even then it was only remotely an issue when on mtb trails doing sharp slow turns or doing a track stand. I never felt like I was going to loose control of the bike or fall down and even if I did it would only be a slow speed fall which is more funny than painful. You could always get shorter crank arms and or try adjusting your cleat placement. Oh, wait with full fenders now I remember why I threw away my fenders I kept knocking them out of alignment with my feet really annoyed the piss out of me.

What size frame are you expecting to use?
Ah. Good question, I should have mentioned that. I ride a 54cm carbon Fuji as my race bike. But that only because the top tubes on modern bikes (compared to the late 70's, when I started) are excessive. I was planning on a 56cm CX frame to help the overlap issue some.

It seems to me that cross bikes have differing bottom bracket drops or heights and you can look for one with a lower bottom bracket. At least, it's my understanding that a higher bottom bracket means more likelihood of toe overlap.

I use my cross bike as you describe, a road bike with wide tires and fenders. The toe overlap is annoying and I have to adjust the way I pedal when making a low-speed turn like at an intersection.

Concerning geometry, all the cross bikes that I was looking at were going to be the same as my road bike (ETT) 58cm size. I would've gone bigger only to get a longer head tube.

It seems to me that cross bikes have differing bottom bracket drops or heights and you can look for one with a lower bottom bracket. At least, it's my understanding that a higher bottom bracket means more likelihood of toe overlap.

I use my cross bike as you describe, a road bike with wide tires and fenders. The toe overlap is annoying and I have to adjust the way I pedal when making a low-speed turn like at an intersection.

Concerning geometry, all the cross bikes that I was looking at were going to be the same as my road bike (ETT) 58cm size. I would've gone bigger only to get a longer head tube.

Nope, top tube length, crank length and HTA and fork rake, but not BB height.

in commuting situations, the front part of my shoe bonks my full fender in sharp low-speed turns (i use full VO fenders, but i also bonked my old SKS P35s). i've learned to ride toe-up to mitigate the impact, and i've never bumped the fender out of alignment this way; i simply "graze" the fender with my shoe, like a light polishing ritual:lol:. when i ride trails, obviously, i take the fenders off---never mind the toe overlap then, you'll be harvesting branches and begging for a fender disaster.

Ah. Good question, I should have mentioned that. I ride a 54cm carbon Fuji as my race bike. But that only because the top tubes on modern bikes (compared to the late 70's, when I started) are excessive. I was planning on a 56cm CX frame to help the overlap issue some.


Most 56cm frames will have this issue. Look here http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?p=1385083#poststop and go the post number 16 and check wheelbase length. Subtract the chainstay length from the wheelbase length to indicate how much length exists between the BB and front axle. Look for bikes with long wheelbase numbers combined with normal chainstay numbers. I have a Soma Double Cross and it fits this discription, I never have this issue, but I ride a size 60!

You might consider a touring bike like the Long Haul Trucker to avoid this problem.

Michael

You might consider a touring bike like the Long Haul Trucker to avoid this problem.

Michael

This is silly and thread is silly. You should not buy a frame around an irrational fear of toe overlap. It's just not a real consideration unless you ride below 5 mph all the time. Just drop your outside foot to the bottom when you corner.

This is silly and thread is silly. You should not buy a frame around an irrational fear of toe overlap. It's just not a real consideration unless you ride below 5 mph all the time. Just drop your outside foot to the bottom when you corner.

This thread might belong in the commuter forum, but your recommendation will not work in every situation.