Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - kilo tt : which parts to keep / swap?

so i'm buying a (used) complete (stock) 2008 kilo tt and was planning on swapping out the stock crankset and wheels, and pedals w/ the sugino "rd" crankset, Mavic CXP22 wheels w/ formula hubs, and MKS road pedals that i have on my current conversion. don't know much about the components on the kilo, so for those that do: should i reconsider any of those changes and keep any of the stock parts? also, are there any other parts that i should definitely i consider replacing (ie. are less than less than great)?

There are plenty of threads on here about how crap the wheels are, so those I would say are a definite swap.

I don't think they come with pedals stock, at least bikesdirect lists pedals as N/A. You cant go wrong with MKS though so go for it.

My buddy just swapped out the wheels, kept the rest stock. It still rides smooth after months and months of abuse.

That's all I got.

The only things I didn't like about the stock Kilo were the saddle and the pedals.

ride and see what you like, dislike, and can afford to switch out! dont forget that its nicer than most even used and totally stock.

The saddle and the wheels are craptastic.

The saddle is, of course, very personal so who knows; you might like it.

The saddle and the wheels are craptastic.

The saddle is, of course, very personal so who knows; you might like it.

As you point out - all fannies are different

But, our experience is that the wheels hold up very well
if we had trouble with the wheels, I would have changed spec
however, as mid level wheels go; these we hear less about than many others

^^The wheels are fine, but be careful with that rear hub. I stripped mine taking off the stock lockring/cog (and yes, I do know the lockring is reverse threaded; and yes, I was using the correct tools) about an hour after I got it. I had it checked out at a bike shop the next day and he said it was just a cheap hub, and that it wasn't surprising.

^^The wheels are fine, but be careful with that rear hub. I stripped mine taking off the stock lockring/cog (and yes, I do know the lockring is reverse threaded; and yes, I was using the correct tools) about an hour after I got it. I had it checked out at a bike shop the next day and he said it was just a cheap hub, and that it wasn't surprising.

+1. I've been very happy with CXP22s though (that the OP mentioned)

Rode mine for 5 miles, already got a new saddle

I changed:
1) stem because it was too long
2) rear wheel, because I stripped the hub
3) cog to an odd # cog for more skid patches
4) chainring to a smaller chainring for lower GI

I kind of got used to the saddle. I also didn't find anything wrong with the cranks or pedal setup, but honestly I haven't tried anything else to compare.

the stem and bars SUCK SUCK SUCK. get a stem/bar combo with less flex if you plan on riding hard

the seatpost is begging to be swapped~

cool thanx for all the suggestions..

slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.

the sugino rd isn't really considered an upgrade, plus i'd take the stock truvativ over the sugino rd any day.

the seatpost is begging to be swapped~

i agree, but as of now, the seatpost and headset are the only stock parts on my kilo. i guess it's just lower down my priority list.

I've replaced the wheels, bar, pedals/clips and cog and it rides really well after about 3-4 months. I've been told that the bottom bracket/crankset will need replacing soon, though.

Seriously...why not just buy a different bike?

Swapping out costs money.

Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.

because i just bought a complete bike (used) for close to the cost of just the frameset of the same bike (new), and i already have the components i mentioned sitting around. was trying to figure out which of those swaps makes sense. and if i did buy a different complete bike, i would undoubtly swap parts of that bike out over time. i doubt i will ever find a complete bike where i am completely satisfied w/ the entire build for the duration of my ownership of it. i would say the same is true for most people on this forum.

Seriously...why not just buy a different bike?

Swapping out costs money.

Just take the cost of all of your proposed swaps. Then add 20% to that (because we all estimate too low when trying to buy and too high when trying to sell). That would be your total cost of ownership of your new, upgraded bike. Now look for a new complete bike that costs around that much.

you should really read the OP before saying this kind of stuff.

OP, if you have the parts already, switch out what you like. if not, wait till it breaks, it's not like the stock kilo is unrideable by any means...

I nearly immediately changed out my pedals, saddle, and bars (and really the only problems with the pedals are the clips; the pedals themselves are fine for a generic pedal.) The stem and wheels are fine, again for generic components. Some people have complained of creaking bottom brackets, but I never experienced that.

And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.

But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.

cool thanx for all the suggestions..

slightly off topic, but are there any markings / tell tale signs on the frames that indicate what year they are? i thought i was getting a 2008 (which i wanted for the dims/geo), but it looks like the dims/geo of the bike i just picked up are that of a 2009.

I'm pretty sure the geometry of the different years is pretty gosh darn close. Remember, though, that the geometry changes a little on each size of bike too.

I'm pretty sure the geometry of the different years is pretty gosh darn close. Remember, though, that the geometry changes a little on each size of bike too.

AFAIK, the top tube between the 2008 and 2009 for the 50cm size differs by 12mm (535 for 2008 and 523 for 2009), which is what i cared about most...

so anyone,,, know how to tell on the frame by markings/stamps etc?

I nearly immediately changed out my pedals, saddle, and bars (and really the only problems with the pedals are the clips; the pedals themselves are fine for a generic pedal.) The stem and wheels are fine, again for generic components. Some people have complained of creaking bottom brackets, but I never experienced that.

And now my son rides on the the wheels, stem, and pedals. The generic components on the KiloTT aren't as bad as the rep they've earned around here.

But yeah, I'd immediately ditch at least the pedals, saddle, and bars.The BB crerak due to lack of grease form the factory. Monkeys put these together. At least my Dawes SST and 4 Kilo TT I have broken down.

the sugino rd isn't really considered an upgrade, plus i'd take the stock truvativ over the sugino rd any day.

are the truvativ's touros that much better than the sugino rd's? i don't know enough about them to make that call? anyone else have opinions on that?

I was wondering the same thing about my 09 Schwinn Madison... is there anything worth getting rid of? Cost me 630 and so far it feels pretty sturdy, but I'm not WAY into bikes (yet) so I don't really know....

I have had a kilo for two years now and all that changed was a new saddle, new tires (kept stock tires for front wheel, got 25 for the rear) and I threw on a front brake and fenders...I am going to swap the handlebars and chainring pretty soon, but you know what they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it...

I have had a kilo for two years now and all that changed was a new saddle, new tires (kept stock tires for front wheel, got 25 for the rear) and I threw on a front brake and fenders...I am going to swap the handlebars and chainring pretty soon, but you know what they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it...

fenderS? i know a clip on rear would work, but it sounds like you found a front one to fit too? what are you using?

fenderS? i know a clip on rear would work, but it sounds like you found a front one to fit too? what are you using?

Planet bike hardcore,

http://ecom1.planetbike.com/planetbike/media/7008.jpg

It was a tight fit. The front didn't fit under the brake, so I had to cut it (still doesn't extend past the fork). I had to use zip ties/wire to attach it, but it does fit. I can't run greater than a 23 on the front wheel or greater than 25 on the rear, but that isn't a big deal...My camera is broken, but I will try to get a picture up when I have a chance.

SKS Race Blades also fit.

bumping this old(er) thread for some second opinions:

cranks: sugino RD's (w/ sugino 103mm bb) or the stock Truvativ Touro's (w/ stock bb)?

also, anyone know of a good source for cheap forged black unbranded threadless stems?

Just keep the cranks you already have, there's nothing wrong with them at all and I doubt you would notice any difference in performance or feel or anything if you were to get the RDs unless you're looking to change the color of them.

imho If you are going to swap out all of those parts maybe it would be a good idea to start with a new frame?

You can get a Tifosi track frame from wiggle for about $240 and add/build it up with the parts you want ymmv

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/images/tifosi-cx-track-zoom.jpg

I have had a kilo TT pro for about 6 months of fairly heavy abuse. I would wager that I have about 1000 miles on it, through all kinds of weather.
When I bought it, I had a LBS strip it down, lube everything, and reassemble. I replaced the pedals and the lockring. Flipped and chopped the bars, and everything else is stock.
It still rides smooth, no mechanical problems.
I think you should only replace components that you want to because of fit or aesthetics.
Ride it 'till something breaks.

i asked cuz i already have all the parts mentioned:
bought the kilo complete off CL for $250 and already have RD's on another ride. just wondering what people's opinions were about performance & quality between those cranks and the truvativs, particularly on the kilo, and whether i should swap 'em out at all.

also, any leads on unbranded black forged stems? that one's more for change of length color and look.

i don't have personal experience with the rd cranks but i did ride the xd model which i think is comparable. they were okay, not spectacular. if i were to choose between the square tapered suginos and the isis truvativs i would go with the isis setup. there's some debate that the squared taper bb's are better suited than isis bb's for urban riding/skidding but i don't skid and i like the increased stiffness of the isis bb.

i don't have personal experience with the rd cranks but i did ride the xd model which i think is comparable. they were okay, not spectacular. if i were to choose between the square tapered suginos and the isis truvativs i would go with the isis setup. there's some debate that the squared taper bb's are better suited than isis bb's for urban riding/skidding but i don't skid and i like the increased stiffness of the isis bb.

i'm somewhat doubtful one would be able to feel a difference in bb type stiffness differences on a kilo frame and budget cranks, but call me crazy

imho If you are going to swap out all of those parts maybe it would be a good idea to start with a new frame?

You can get a Tifosi track frame from wiggle for about $240 and add/build it up with the parts you want ymmv

I think it's ~US$308 + shipping, but still, valid point.

I think it's ~US$308 + shipping, but still, valid point.

again, that would be a valid point, if i didn't i already have all the parts (complete kilo tt + extra RD cranks). as far as the cranks go, it's not a matter of purchasing or cost, i'm just trying to figure out which one to use out of the ones i already own.

I think its gonna boil down to your own preference and which ones you want on which bike. Just know the BBs are not compatible so you would have to remove the BB off the complete kilo and get the appropriate bb (103mm) for the RDs you already have. Question is are you willing to go through the trouble of swapping if both cranksets are equal in quality?? That's up to you and that's what everyone is here telling you that you need to make that decision yourself.

I think its gonna boil down to your own preference and which ones you want on which bike. Just know the BBs are not compatible so you would have to remove the BB off the complete kilo and get the appropriate bb (103mm) for the RDs you already have. Question is are you willing to go through the trouble of swapping if both cranksets are equal in quality?? That's up to you and that's what everyone is here telling you that you need to make that decision yourself.

i have the matching bottom bracket for the RD's too. they're currently installted on my old beater conversion that i planned on selling once i decide which parts i want on the kilo.

how about this for a more specific question:
can anyone that has had experience with both cranksets on a kilo say whether one produces a better chainline than another (if there's any difference, of course)?