Classic & Vintage - My 45 dollar Schwinn Circuit

A friend of mine challenged me and a bunch old friends to join him in a sprint triathlon. I have an old bridgestone mb-3 that I bought in college, but decided to take the chance to find a road bike. My friend rides some absurdly expensive cervelo, so I decided to go cheap as a counter balance.

I started checking CL, and found an ad one morning that just said "schwinn road bike". I decided to check it out as it was on my way to work. The bike was clearly light, and it seemed like it might be close to the right size, so I bought it. After getting it home and figuring that out "ircui" was part of the name "circuit", and doing a little searching I discovered that I had actually purchased a pretty nice bike-- even if it was a little beat up. I think it is a 1987 bike.

I have since bought a 5 dollar used seat from a friend, and paid 20 bucks for wellgo pedals from REI. I had to fix the brakes, and change a tire, but that is all I have done so far. I have been riding it several times-- nothing real long-- 15 miles tops. It seems to work just fine. It shifts nice. Brakes work, but are noisy.

I really only have two problems with the bike. First, the handlebars. It has old scott aero bars on it. The bars are kind of cool, and I would not mind keeping them, but I have not really found them to be very comfortable. I can't figure out where to put my hands for long periods of time.

Second, the bike is really too big for me. I have measured it about 10 times, and I am pretty sure it is a 24 inch (61 cm) frame. I am 6 foot, and really think that a 58 cm is the size I want (and even that is probably a tad large). But to be honest, it does not really feel like it is too large when I am riding it.

I am really torn here. I want to buy some nitto noodle bars and just ride it. But those bars would cost what I paid for the bike. And I am not sure if I should keep the stem on the bike-- it seems short, but that might be good for me considering the size of the frame. And it seems dumb to put that much money into a 45 dollar bike with a beat up frame-- even if it is a good one. Especially since if I actually find a bike in the right size I will probably end up giving the bike to another friend who is even cheaper than me. OTOH, if I end up keeping the bike I would not mind putting money into it-- even getting it powder coated.

I also have two specific questions-- where can I get brake hoods? The brakes say "aero comp" and I think they are diacompe levers. I have seen hoods that say they are for "aero" brakes, but I am not sure if they would fit.

Second-- is something missing from my rear wheel? It looks like there should be something else in the center of the cogs.

Thanks

Jared

PS: I would obviously be interested in getting some used handlebars if anyone has them. I think I need 44cm or 46cm bars. The stem is 26mm. I have some "system component" bars and stem made from 6061 heat treated aluminum, but they are 40cm width, and I think they came from an old trek. I have the aero bars as well, but I might want to keep those.

PSS: My other new bike is a centurion pro tour. That will be my next post.

I'm 6'1" and I did my first 3 sprint triathlons on a 24" '81 Schwinn Traveler. I now have a 57cm Peloton, which is better, but the bigger bike was fine. I'd put a post in the WTB section for some standard road bars. Someone will come through with something cheap. Other than that your bike will do fine. Just make it comfortable.

1987 Schwinn Circuit riders must done some long rides on their bikes.
I got one about a month ago with very similar bars.

I did a total overhaul, changed the bar and stem, new tires. The chrome has a little pitting but it's still a pretty bike. It also rides really nice.

Here's a pic of when I got it.

I road a tall schwinn of the same era.Don't worry if your private parts are close to the top tube. Its not a big deal as long as the top tube is okay. You did excellent for 45$.

Try using a kitchen pan cleaner called Bar Keepers friend. It has oxalic acid in it and will take the rust bubbles out. Use water, dab it on thick, let it sit over night. Rub it off with a cloth and it ought to look new. Enjoy.

If you want to keep the bars (good for a sprint tri) look for some clip on armrests. I did a quick search, but didn't turn up much, though I didn't check eBay...
Anyways... After the oxalic acid, wipe it down well with WD-40 (works wonders and will remove grime you didn't know was there) give it a good bath with a car type wash, then wax it. Bike will likely look better than you think it will.
I wouldn't worry about brake hoods as you arent resting your hands on the tops of them. I'd also rewrap the bars (I recommend PlanetBike tape as it has a nice soft feel) as that will do alot for riding comfort.
As far as what's missing at the freewheel, it looks like a dustcap *might* be missing. If there is, it's no big deal. Though that cluster probably could use some oiling/cleaning.
You've got a good bike there. Take care of it.
-Gene-

If you want to keep the bars (good for a sprint tri) look for some clip on armrests. I did a quick search, but didn't turn up much, though I didn't check eBay...

Yep, I recently saw a cheap set of these for about $25 somewhere, I thought about buying them 'cos I had the same bars as the OP. Thought I saw them at PBK, but they're not coming up there... if I find them, I'll let you know. As for comfort, you also have those bars turned up pretty steep.

Concerning drop bars, check your PM.

I'll second (third?) the recommendation for elbow/arm rests on the aerobars. I have old set of Scott clip on bars, and the weight resting on the forearms gets annoying. You could try wrapping extra bar tape where you would rest your arms, even contouring it a little for comfort, if you can't find arm rests.

I'm 6' and I ride 60cm frames. However, I don't race and I don't have my rides set up for maximum aerodynamics. If you want a greater saddle to bar drop, you get a smaller frame. However, if it doesn't feel too big, it's probably a good fit for you.

The reason the stem is so short is that those bars have a very long reach. Where have you been placing your hands when you ride? That'll help you decide whether the top tube + bar reach is too long.

If the brakes are loud, get new pads. Kool Stop salmons. And check to make sure the rims are running true.

Oh, and the finish on your Circuit is better than any of my bikes. Don't worry about repainting it. Just ride it.

Second-- is something missing from my rear wheel? It looks like there should be something else in the center of the cogs.

It's a freewheel. It might look different than your friend's cassette, which slides onto a freehub body attached to the wheel.

Thanks for all the replies. I really don't mind the fit of the bike, and I guess that is what matters. I like the idea of finding clip on arm rests for the aero bars. Do you know who makes something like that?

Ablaut says I maybe have the bars turned up to high. How much should I lower them? Should I move the brakes?

Jared

The reason the stem is so short is that those bars have a very long reach. Where have you been placing your hands when you ride? That'll help you decide whether the top tube + bar reach is too long.


I have tried putting my hands all over those bars. Nothing feels real bad, but nothing feels great. But it may just take some getting used to. The reach feels the best with my hands in the bottom of the "loops"-- but that results in my hand being squeezed kind of funny. I am not sure if I am describing that right.

Jared

Sorry, ignore what I said about those bars being turned up too high. I thought the forward extension should be more parallel to the toptube, but I found two other pics with the angle pretty much the same as yours.

If you do replace the bars, you can always get clip-on aerobars with armrests.

Nice catch! Just my size too. Let me know when you don't want it anymore :D

Dave

I'd ditch those bars for a conventional drop bar. And add Profile aero clip-ons. Those levers are indeed Dia-Compe. And just about all aero replacement hoods will fit.
You found yourself a more than competent bike to challenge your friend. I'm looking forward to reading about you trouncing him and his Cervelo.
:D
(ps. I have nothing against Cervelos. Happen to like them a lot.)

Nice catch! Just my size too. Let me know when you don't want it anymore :D

Dave

Blarg! I was going to say the same thing. Wish I had something slightly shorter of similar quality to trade.



I'd ditch those bars for a conventional drop bar.

+1


I'm looking forward to reading about you trouncing him and his Cervelo.
:D

+12. I think it can be done. If you spend any money on this bike, spend it on wheels. Course that might make you want to switch the drivetrain, but you can run casette hubs with a spacer and a 7-8 speed downtube friction or indexed shifter setup with little to no modification. Some Mavic Open Pros w/ butted spokes and 105 or Tiagra hubs should be worth every penny, and not break the bank too terribly. Heck, I'll even build the wheels for you if you send me the parts.


I have tried putting my hands all over those bars. Nothing feels real bad, but nothing feels great. But it may just take some getting used to. The reach feels the best with my hands in the bottom of the "loops"-- but that results in my hand being squeezed kind of funny. I am not sure if I am describing that right.
Jared

Sounds like you could use a longer stem if you're not comfortable riding upright on the flat part of the bar, and need to be more forward. That top tube is pretty short. You can also try moving the saddle back to sort of mimick what a longer stem would feel like. You don't want to do that permanently, just long enough to know if a longer stem would help you. First thing: replace the bars with drops.

I'm looking forward to reading about you trouncing him and his Cervelo.
:D
(ps. I have nothing against Cervelos. Happen to like them a lot.)

Thanks for the support, but you guys are overlooking rider skill and preparation here. My friend rides all the time, trains with a triathlon team, and all that jazz.

My training peaked when I printed out a free training guide from the internet. And at my current level of skill I will never get to the ride-- because I won't make it through the swim.

Jared

Thanks for the support, but you guys are overlooking rider skill and preparation here. My friend rides all the time, trains with a triathlon team, and all that jazz.

My training peaked when I printed out a free training guide from the internet. And at my current level of skill I will never get to the ride-- because I won't make it through the swim.

Jared

It is now your duty to train so that you can prove its the rider, not the bike. I think I have an Eye of the Tiger tape around here somewhere that I can send you.

Thanks for "eye of the tiger" encouragement-- I need it.

And one more question-- I asked a similar question in my centurion thread, but I might as well ask it here as well.

What size is this bike?

I swear I tried to follow the instructions on how to measure-- and measured from the center of the BB to to the top of the top tube and got 24 inches. Or just about 61 cm.

But now I see Robbie selling these other centurions here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=520793

And it looks to me like my bike is closer to the size of the 58 turbo. Am I just measuring wrong?

Jared

Thanks for "eye of the tiger" encouragement-- I need it.

And one more question-- I asked a similar question in my centurion thread, but I might as well ask it here as well.

What size is this bike?

I swear I tried to follow the instructions on how to measure-- and measured from the center of the BB to to the top of the top tube and got 24 inches. Or just about 61 cm.

But now I see Robbie selling these other centurions here:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=520793

And it looks to me like my bike is closer to the size of the 58 turbo. Am I just measuring wrong?

Jared

I really would like some input on this-- any input. Can you help me determine what the size of this bike really is?

Jared

I really would like some input on this-- any input. Can you help me determine what the size of this bike really is?

Jared

He may be measuring to the center of the top tube, rather than the top. Also, don't worry about headtube length, all sorts of frame geometry differences can influence that (top tube length, BB height, etc.) What is important is how the frame fits you, and/or if you can make some changes (stem length, saddle height, saddle setback, bar reach) to make it fit comfortably.

"Somebody else's 220 dollar Schwinn Circuit" on Craig's List (Hudson Valley NY)
schwinn circuit road bike - $220 (highland falls)

Reply to: sale-ecwzz-1086336233@craigslist.org (sale-ecwzz-1086336233@craigslist.org?subject=schwinn%20circuit%20road%20bike%20-%20$220%20(highland%20falls)) [Errors when replying to ads? (http://www.craigslist.org/about/help/replying_to_posts)]
Date: 2009-03-22, 8:40AM EDT



14 speed schwinn circuit road bike 21 lbs. from 80's. rigida hand heat treated racing rims spin true. 700x23c armadillo tires.all sante components. shinano quick release.rico sport seat. less than normal wear to orange paint. frame 22.5"cc, top tube. 22.5"cc,standover 32.5". brake pads were added after pics were taken. will consider trades for older bikes.$220 obo 845 446 5258 http://images.craigslist.org/3k93m13pdZZZZZZZZZ93m45ff63ce1b6719d4.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/3n43k03mcZZZZZZZZZ93me7dcf89fb2881450.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/3n13kf3p1ZZZZZZZZZ93ma9e70b4c66f01fde.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/3n83k43p9ZZZZZZZZZ93m2ee6e04c28781ebb.jpg


Location: highland falls
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

I really would like some input on this-- any input. Can you help me determine what the size of this bike really is?

Jared

Yours is a 24 or 25 measured C2C. A top tube C2C of 580 would be 24" anything longer would be a 25.

I'm fairly certain the fork is stamped as well.

I found these a few days ago but just kept forgetting to post them.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=16252&category=2680
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=16252&category=2680
Those are for the Deda Elementi Armrests, the armrests don't come with pads, which is why there's a link to them.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22952&category=2680
Then there's the Profile Design armrests. Those have adaptors for larger bars, but, they still work as just the rests. I like the idea of these personally, just because they fold up and "out of the way" when you're not using them, giving you your handlebars back, though that's less important for you as you have less "bar top" than traditional drops.
They're both about the same price.
-Gene-

Ok, a fellow C&V guy offered me a pair of 46cm drop bars, and I bought them. I figured it was probably a better plan than spending money on armrests. They should get here any day.

I have noticed that my stem is rather short. According to the schwinn catalog I found online, a 24 inch circuit should have come with a 100mm cinelli stem. I don't know how long this one is, but it looks shorter than that. In fact, I know it is, because I have seen the catalog picture. See attached.

So I was thinking of replacing the stem with something closer to stock when I put on the new bars. Seems like it would be easier than doing it twice.

And I found a guy in scottsdale who claims to have several stems, in several sizes, all for relatively cheap.

I was thinking that since this bike is theoretically 2cm to big for me, that maybe I should get a stem slightly shorter than what would have come on it stock. Maybe a 90mm or even an 80mm. A 90mm is what would have come on a 22 or 23 inch Circuit.

Does that sound like a good plan? Again, I am just a newbie, trying to find my way. I realize that there is no way to know for sure until I ride it with the new bars and stem, but I want to start from a logical place.

Any advice is appreciated

Jared

That looks like an 80mm stem right there, have you measured it? Anyway, I say wait until the bars arrive and pop them in for a sec, then see how stretched out/cramped you are... and only then proceed on deciding stem length. It'll also depend on how your seat is adjusted, so make sure you're comfy with that first.

That looks like an 80mm stem right there, have you measured it? Anyway, I say wait until the bars arrive and pop them in for a sec, then see how stretched out/cramped you are... and only then proceed on deciding stem length. It'll also depend on how your seat is adjusted, so make sure you're comfy with that first.

I have not measured the stem I have. I just assumed it was way shorter because of the picture. Where do you measure the length of the stem at? If I have an 80mm I really should just try it.

But one more general question about stems-- how do you know what "height" you need? I just assumed that with these kinds of stems you can move it up and down pretty easy-- and that the height of the stem did not really matter. Or that they were all the same height. Is that wrong? Do I need to measure the height of the stem I have? Or can you tell me what height I would need for an 61cm frame?

I am sorry if these are dumb questions.

Jared

Jared, don't assume you need a shorter stem just because the frames 1 size to big. Not all copmaies used different length top tubes with each change in frame size.

Most of the older quilstems have a similar angle to them. Handlebar height is adjusted by how much it's inserted into the fork.

Stems are available with different (more steep) angles.

Exactly what Jim said. I have a 61cm Schwinn with a 57cm top tube. I have another 61cm frame with a 60cm top tube. So it really depends.

As for stem height, it's what you're comfortable with and where on the bars your hands will be most often. I usually have the tops of my bars level or a few cm below my saddle. Others have it dropped way lower.

Another thing... don't assume you're asking dumb questions, 'cos you're not!

I measured, and the reach of the stem I have is 60mm. Measured center to center. Measured the top tube and it is 22.5 inches-- 57 cm.

But you give good advice. I will see how it feels with the new bars and the stem I have.

Jared

Back to the Schwinn Circuit. I am starting to think that this bike is going to fit me. Even though it is a 61 cm frame, the top tube length is just a tad over 57cm. According to the bike calculator I used, a 57cm top tube is supposed to work for me.

So I bought a 46cm pair of handlebars from forum member and a 90mm nitto stem from craigslist. But even before I got the handlebars in the mail I found a new pair of 46cm nitto noodle handlebars at a bike swap meet. I bought those as well, thinking I could put one of them on the ProTour if I end up keeping it.

Then discovered that the nitto stem was a 25.4, and did not fit either of the handlebars. :mad: So I got another stem-- this one was a 120mm 3ttt stem with the right 26mm opening.

So I put on the noodle and the 3ttt stem on the bike last night, along with some cheap teckto brake levers. I did not really how to position the handlebars or the brake levers. But after trial and error, I ended up with the bars and brakes as shown in the pictures.

So how does it look? I really had no idea how high the brakes should be, I just tried to copy what I have seen others do.

I rode it around a bit (not much, given that it had no functioning brakes). I would say that it feels pretty darn good. But I also think the 120mm stem might really be too long. Right now I feel like the bike is very comfortable with my hands right on the spot where the brakes and handlebars meet. But if I move my hands on top of the brakes (where those nice little hand-holds are), it feels like I am stretching just a bit too far to be comfortable for the long term. OTOH, it feels OK in the drops.

Right now I am tempted to try and find a 100mm stem, and see if that feels better. Maybe the third stem will be the charm. :D OTOH, maybe I should ride if with the 120mm stem for a while and see if I get used to it? The problem with me making this kind of decision is that I am such a newbie that I don't know what it should feel like. Any advice on this? BTW, the bike calc said I should be using a 100mm-110mm stem.

Jared

PS: If this fits, I may get the frame powder coated. That will have to be the next topic.

Your levers look OK. Back in the day we'd put a striaght edge along the bottom of the bar and adjust the levers so the bottom tips were even with the straight edge and go from there. Raising the levers will effectively shorten the stem yet increase lever reach while in the drops.

If you aren't used to riding roadbikes yet I would raise the stem a bit until you get a "feel" for it.

If you aren't used to riding roadbikes yet I would raise the stem a bit until you get a "feel" for it.

So are you saying I would get used to the longer stem given some time? Or are you talking about something else?

Jared

If your saddle height is right, and your knee over pedal position is comfortable, but you find yourself sliding forward on your saddle, it's likely the reach to your bars is too long. You'll have to ride a bit to figure it out.

FWIW, I've found that those Nitto bars combined with Tektro or Cane Creek ergo levers make for a much longer reach on the hoods than traditional bars and levers (e.g. Cinelli 64's with non-aero levers). So you may indeed want to try a shorter stem.

If your saddle height is right, and your knee over pedal position is comfortable, but you find yourself sliding forward on your saddle, it's likely the reach to your bars is too long. You'll have to ride a bit to figure it out.

FWIW, I've found that those Nitto bars combined with Tektro or Cane Creek ergo levers make for a much longer reach on the hoods than traditional bars and levers (e.g. Cinelli 64's with non-aero levers). So you may indeed want to try a shorter stem.

I have no idea what you mean by "knee over pedal position". I will have to research that.

I do have another bar, and I have the original dia-comp aero brake levers. Maybe I should try those. I wasn't sure which brake levers I was going to use anyway-- but I tried the Tektro first because I did not have any hoods for the dia-comp.

Thanks

Jared

So are you saying I would get used to the longer stem given some time? Or are you talking about something else?

Jared

He's talking about raising the stem vertically so that your bars are more level with your seat. This will give you a more relaxed position. Unless of course they're totally comfortable as they are.

Knee-over pedal position is when your crank arm is at 3-o'clock and your knee is over the pedal. This depends on the position of your seat. Anyway, it's still pretty agressive, a lot of people have their knees slightly behind that.

I have no idea what you mean by "knee over pedal position". I will have to research that.

It's a big can of worms, and there's no definitive position for every rider. I just mean that if you are sliding forward on your saddle, it may be because the reach on your bars is too great. Or it may be because your saddle is too far back. I don't know if you're experiencing this, but it's something to consider. It's easier to move your saddle forward a bit, first, before swapping the stem out, to see if this increases comfort. But it appears you've already made your decision to try a shorter stem. :)

Anyway, if you really want to read about KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle) this is a good place to start:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html

I do have another bar, and I have the original dia-comp aero brake levers. Maybe I should try those. I wasn't sure which brake levers I was going to use anyway-- but I tried the Tektro first because I did not have any hoods for the dia-comp.


Oh, definitely stick with the Tektro's. They are far more comfortable (at least for me) and it's likely they have mechanical advantages over the older Dia-Compes.

So are you saying I would get used to the longer stem given some time? Or are you talking about something else?

Jared


Yeah, you might find over time you would like a longer reach than when you first start. Also, a long reach won't seem as extreme if you raise the bars more level with your seat.

Ok, if you had seen my other threads, you know that I bought a bike that fits. A nice clean schwinn paramount. A very nice bike. I need to pay for the new one, so I need to sell this one. It makes me sad, this is a nice bike. But it does not fit, so there is no sense in keeping it.

How much should I ask for it?

Since I bought the bike I put a nice 3ttt stem and handlebar on the bike. (the nittos went on the paramount). I also got some new tektro brake levers, a used but nice seat and new bar tape and brake cables (that are not yet installed).

I have been watching for these bikes. There are not many of them around. I saw a guy selling a bare frame for 150. I saw another guy selling a complete bike on CL for 300.

This bike is solid, but cosmetically rough in places. Surface rust on some components. White paint splotches on the frame. But I am sure it could be repainted and made very nice. If it was 58 cm I would have had it powder coated and not bought the paramount.

What is it worth?

Jared

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt327/oldarizona/schwinn%20circuit/DSC_0293Large.jpg

Part it out. Sell what you don't want, keep components that might be useful to you in the future. Most of the value is in the frameset anyway.

You can sell me the brake levers. :D

Ok, I am still going to sell this bike. And I have pretty much decided to strip it and sell the frame. In fact, I already have my eye on a couple of 58 cm frames that will do the trick.

But I have a question about the headset on this bike. It says "Paramount Stronglight". Given that I own one, the word paramount now catches my attention when I see it. I also did a search and found that some stronglight headsets are well thought of.

So does this one have any particular value? I was planning on just selling with the frame, but I don't want to do something foolish.

Jared

/Note that I recently paid for the upgrade membership, so as to not violate the no selling rule when asking such specific questions.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt327/oldarizona/schwinn%20circuit/DSC_0311Large.jpg

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt327/oldarizona/schwinn%20circuit/DSC_0310Large.jpg

The headsets nothing special but it is special. The Panasonic built Schwinns take a 30.0mm diameter cup whereas most other bikes take 30.2mm cups.

Because of the 30.0mm cup size my Circuit is built with full Dura Ace STI with the exception of the headset. I've been looking.....

I believe that headset is a rebadged A9 which employs roller bearings rather than ball bearings. If so, it is highly desirable and is no longer produced. You'll be sorry if you sell it.

It's easy to check the ID.

Also, I believe the Circuit was built in Mississippi in the Schwinn plant.



Ok, I am still going to sell this bike. And I have pretty much decided to strip it and sell the frame. In fact, I already have my eye on a couple of 58 cm frames that will do the trick.

But I have a question about the headset on this bike. It says "Paramount Stronglight". Given that I own one, the word paramount now catches my attention when I see it. I also did a search and found that some stronglight headsets are well thought of.

So does this one have any particular value? I was planning on just selling with the frame, but I don't want to do something foolish.

Jared

/Note that I recently paid for the upgrade membership, so as to not violate the no selling rule when asking such specific questions.

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt327/oldarizona/schwinn%20circuit/DSC_0311Large.jpg

http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/tt327/oldarizona/schwinn%20circuit/DSC_0310Large.jpg

I believe that headset is a rebadged A9 which employs roller bearings rather than ball bearings. If so, it is highly desirable and is no longer produced. You'll be sorry if you sell it.

It's easy to check the ID.

Also, I believe the Circuit was built in Mississippi in the Schwinn plant.

That is what I thought about the headset. And it does have roller bearings. I checked. It could maybe use new ones. But I have had the frame on CL (and here) for several weeks, with me repeatedly dropping the price and still no takers. What is up with that?

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/1261430027.html

I think I need to learn to 1) sell on ebay; and 2)ship.

Jared

But I have had the frame on CL (and here) for several weeks, with me repeatedly dropping the price and still no takers. What is up with that?

I think I need to learn to 1) sell on ebay; and 2)ship.

Jared

Too much nonsense.


198X Schwinn Circuit frameset. 24"/60cm makes this an ideal size for the rider over (insert rider height here)

Constructed with Columus SL main tubes with a Tange chromoly fork and rear triangle.

Would make excellent frameset for a custom road build or a fixed gear single speed build up.

Thats it, nothing more nothing less

Yep. In a nutshell.

J
Too much nonsense.



Thats it, nothing more nothing less