Cyclocross - Single Speed Cyclocross Wheelset?

Hello:

I am building up a single speed surly cross check with intentions of commuting and having the ability to hit the local cross tracks. What sorts of wheel builds are you guys running and what would you recommend.

Thanks

I recommend Velocity Synergy or Dyad rims laced 32x3 to Surly hubs. If you imagine wanting to ever use these wheels on a SS 29er in the future, get the 135mm rear hub (perhaps in disc-compatible version), otherwise 130mm. Get free/fixed threading.

The Synergy and Dyad rims are a bit wider than typical road rims, makes running fatter tires better. The Cross Check has pretty generous spacing, you can fit some nice fat tires under that bike.

I run a Velocity Aerohead on a 135 mm Surly fixed/free hub on my Il pompino and I have been very happy with it.

i raced on ksyrium equipes with spacers to get good chainline... use whatever youd on a geared bike for your purposes...

One nice advantage of running singlespeed is having a rear wheel that isn't dished to Hades.

i'm using a Surly free/free rear hub, Campy Mirage front hub, and Velocity Deep-V's.

heavy? very. but strong.

I haven't raced yet but I have a two CX bikes. Both have Velocity Deep-V rims, one set with Ultegra hubs and the other with IRO fixed/free high flange hubs (rebadged Formula hubs i believe).

If starting from scratch, I don't think deep V's are the best choice for cross because they are narrow (19mm) and fairly heavy (520g) and aren't deep enough to confer any advantage over shallow rims (for cross, at any rate).

The aero advantage of Deep Vs would come primarily from building them with fewer spokes. For cross, a lighter rim and more spokes is a better combo, because you want rotating weight to be minimized.

I have an older Dura-ace freewheel wheel that I respaced and redished for a great SS wheel. I also picked up a set of similar DA hubs laces to tubular gp40's that I may use to race on. Old tubular freewheel wheel sets can be crazy cheap on craigs list.

If starting from scratch, I don't think deep V's are the best choice for cross because they are narrow (19mm) and fairly heavy (520g) and aren't deep enough to confer any advantage over shallow rims (for cross, at any rate).

The aero advantage of Deep Vs would come primarily from building them with fewer spokes. For cross, a lighter rim and more spokes is a better combo, because you want rotating weight to be minimized.

Aren't there some advantages to an aero rim design (probably not deep v deep) for shedding mud and sand?

Aren't there some advantages to an aero rim design (probably not deep v deep) for shedding mud and sand?I don't think at the depth of Deep Vs it makes much difference, but I do buy the fact that deep carbon rims might cut through sand and mud better. I've gotten to the end of races with all kinds of vegetable matter caught in my spokes, seems like the guys with carbon rims had less of that.

I have a pair of DT Swiss TK 7.1 that have been trouble free since I had them.

I have an older Dura-ace freewheel wheel that I respaced and redished for a great SS wheel. I also picked up a set of similar DA hubs laces to tubular gp40's that I may use to race on. Old tubular freewheel wheel sets can be crazy cheap on craigs list.

I used a suntour xc pro freewheel hub for my rear hub. The distance btwn the flanges is only about 5mm less than on dimension or formula track hubs.

I think surly ss hubs are overkill, frankly. I know wider flanges make for a stronger wheel but really how many 32 spoke road wheels being used to race cx do you see fail? I think dimension or formula track hubs or old freewheel hubs are plenty, and a lot cheaper.

I think surly ss hubs are overkill, frankly. I know wider flanges make for a stronger wheel but really how many 32 spoke road wheels being used to race cx do you see fail? I think dimension or formula track hubs or old freewheel hubs are plenty, and a lot cheaper.It's not about the width or distance between the flanges, but how unequal the left and right spoke tensions need to be. On a 10-speed wheel, effective number of spokes is just about halved, because non-drive-side spokes are near slack compared to drive-side.

And it's not really about catastrophic failure (tho it does occur), but longevity and maintenance. Highly dished wheels go out of true more easily, and I personally have cracked rims from the high tensions needed on a 10-speed rear wheel. Again, part of the advantage of singlespeed is being able to build a strong rear wheel with relatively fewer spokes and a lighter rim.

If I were building a rear wheel on a 10-speed hub, I would use an off-center rim like the Synergy OC or Aerohead OC.

It's not about the width or distance between the flanges, but how unequal the left and right spoke tensions need to be.

I'm talking about the difference btwn a surly or a track hub, something else dishless or close to it. The surly has wider flanges than a track hub and both will be built dishless. The wider spaced flanges are for strength- a wider triangle. Paul components flanges are pushed even further out. I think it's overkill, I'd go with $30 track hub over a $60 surly.

I think it's overkill, I'd go with $30 track hub over a $60 surly.OK now I get a clue.

Yes, I agree that a track hub spaced out to 130mm can work fine and is plenty strong. But I still consider the Surly hubs reasonably priced, and I think your two-fold price difference between Formula/Dimension and Surly is exaggerated. For example Universal Cycles has a rear Dimension track hub for $43, Surly for $56.

$56 for their mtn or road hub? No way...

Wow. Good price. Usually they're like $70. Anyway you can get a novatec/dimension/etc. hub on ebay for under $40 and I dunno, I could be wrong but I don't think the extra $20 or $30 for a surly is really worth it. They're heavier and stronger most likely, but how strong do they need to be, really?

I have both and have had no issue with either. Actually, my SS hub is pre Surly, it's a 1x1 but the same hub.

Careful with many of the track specific hubs, as they have rather poor sealing

....doesn't rain much and ain't much mud on a track

Very few current track hubs are made for the track. DA, Campy, Miche, ect are but they are producing the same models that they have for a while. Most of the ones being discussed here sealed bearings and are designed for street use.

Yeah. I was surprised when I got my xc pro hubs that the sealed bearing were just right there out in the open, I thought being mtb hubs they'd be behind some further kind of cover. Apart from the greaseguard feature they're no different than how those novatec/formula's etc. are- just a sealed bearing.

I finally took some pics of my wheels, still dirty from the last race I did...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3585/3377289211_a921196881.jpg

I laced the front hub "backwards".

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3644/3377289799_1f204cdd25.jpg

Here they are on the bike.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3650/3378108064_55cd1125b3.jpg

sun m14a rims.

The dish on the rear hub isn't as good as a surly ss or even track hub, but it's not as bad as a road cassette hub so I'm happy. I may put a solid axle on it but the qr has been working fine.

Thanks for the responses!

I have 32 spoke Sun Venus rims laced 3x to high flange formula hubs. Good wheels so far, although I sometimes wish the rims were a bit wider. I ride offroad, but don't actually race.


Hello:

I am building up a single speed surly cross check with intentions of commuting and having the ability to hit the local cross tracks. What sorts of wheel builds are you guys running and what would you recommend.

Thanks

I'm running Velocity Aeroheads (Nuvian wheels, I guess) using White Industry hubs; 32/3x. Seem to work fine for me. I'm about 195lbs. and ride dry and somewhat rocky trails that normally only see mtn. bikes. So spend a lot of time responding to hikers about why I'm carrying my bike up hill, :-)

Sorry for the threadjack...

TimJ, what gear ratio are you running? and JonM, what ratio do you plan to run? I'm just curious to know that people are racing with.

I go between 38x17 and 38x16.

Interesting...thanks.