Bicycle Mechanics - Campy 10 speed and skipping chain?

Hi all, I'm sure this has been covered before, if not here then on the web somewhere, but I just can't seem to find the information I need.

I recently build up an older steel frame with new Campy Record 10 speed (well, 20 speed really, but you know what I mean). I took it out for it's first ride this weekend, and I would periodically get some kind of chain skip type of thing happening (not exactly sure what to call it). It happened primarily when I was in the small chainring, and on of the outer cogs (39-12/13), and became annoying when I was out of the saddle climbing.

When spinning this gear in the workstand it seems to be fine, but I wondered if this gear combination was less than optimal (i.e. too much cross-chainline), since the chain runs pretty close to the 53 tooth outer chainring in this gear. Could this be the case, or should this gear combination work? If not, could it be that I don't have the rear derailleur set up 100%? I'm just looking for things that I can do to help me diagnose this problem, so I appreciate all opinions on this.

Thanks,
neil

New chain + old cassette = skipping, or a used chain from one bike & cassette from another
or a tight link

New chain + old cassette = skipping, or a used chain from one bike & cassette from another
or a tight link

I bought the group second hand, and while I was told the chain and cassette were both fairly new, I'll confirm with some closer inspection for cog wear/chain stretch. Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, you are cross-chaining too far but that is probably not the cause of the skipping. Homebrew is correct. Good maintenance includes occasionally measuring the chain for "stretch". Al 24 pin intervals of new chain will measure exactly 12 inches. By the time any 24 pin interval of chain reaches 12 1/16th inches the chain should be replaced. A cassette should outlast at least 3 chains, but this may vary depending on riding style and component quality.

Al

I've measured the chain, and it's fine. There seems to be a bit of wear on some of the cassette cogs, so that could be the source of the problem. I'll take a closer look at the way the chain seats on the cog before I think about getting a new cassette. Otherwise, I think I'll just avoid these gear combinations and enjoy the gears that work well.
Thanks for the input!

Are you running a 10spd narrow chain? If not you will get skipping. Also, use the tensioning screw on the RD cable stop. Setting up the gearing on a stand doesn't simulate minor effects caused by the rider and bike interaction. Usually need a tweek once on the road. Once I finalize my adjustments on my campy drive trains they go forever without any adjusting needed.

If the chain stays on the intended cog, but won't transmit a large torque, it is chain skip. If the chain wants to move to another cog it is probably a RD adjustment problem. As others have noted, using the 39T ring with the smallest cog is not wise, but the second cog should pose no problem.

Some people use wipperman connex link and install them upside down, causing a problem in the smallest cogs.

Campy chain that is well maintained is not likely to elongate like other brands. It can be very worn and not show any significant elongation. Measuring the distance between rollers, as Campy recommends will reveal roller wear, but IMO, chain that measures 5.220 instead of the 5.200 is not worn out. I use them for up to 5.240, but not all at once. I rotate 3 chains to avoid chain skip.

I tried to do some tweeking with the RD tension adjustment when it started happening, and it didn't seem to change things (That said, I didn't do hill repeats while making adjustments!).
I do however have a wipperman link in the chain. I've never used one of these before, and didn't know that it could be installed improperly. I'm pretty sure I installed it correctly, but how can you tell if it's upside down? Does this photo on the Jenson site show it as it would appear in the chain along the top of the chainstay? If so, I've got it right.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH608Z01-Wipperman+Connex+Stainless+Link.aspx

I'll also check the inter-roller distance with the calipers.

Thanks again to all who replied!


If the chain stays on the intended cog, but won't transmit a large torque, it is chain skip. If the chain wants to move to another cog it is probably a RD adjustment problem. As others have noted, using the 39T ring with the smallest cog is not wise, but the second cog should pose no problem.

Some people use wipperman connex link and install them upside down, causing a problem in the smallest cogs.

Campy chain that is well maintained is not likely to elongate like other brands. It can be very worn and not show any significant elongation. Measuring the distance between rollers, as Campy recommends will reveal roller wear, but IMO, chain that measures 5.220 instead of the 5.200 is not worn out. I use them for up to 5.240, but not all at once. I rotate 3 chains to avoid chain skip.

I tried to do some tweeking with the RD tension adjustment when it started happening, and it didn't seem to change things (That said, I didn't do hill repeats while making adjustments!).
I do however have a wipperman link in the chain. I've never used one of these before, and didn't know that it could be installed improperly. I'm pretty sure I installed it correctly, but how can you tell if it's upside down? Does this photo on the Jenson site show it as it would appear in the chain along the top of the chainstay? If so, I've got it right.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH608Z01-Wipperman+Connex+Stainless+Link.aspx


That image shows the link oriented to pass *under* a cog (or chainring), so it sounds as if you have it upside down.

That image shows the link oriented to pass *under* a cog (or chainring), so it sounds as if you have it upside down.

Thanks! I'll switch it up and let you know if it's fixed the problem.
Best,
Neil

When the link is installed on the lower section of chain, the plate on the left or back side should have the pin on the left and the other plate that goes on the right, or side facing you should have the pin on the right, so the slotted end of that plate faces toward the back of the bike.

That picture is how is should look on the lower section of chain. When it's on the top section, it will be reversed.

Thanks, I'm glad someone said "Wipperman" :thumb:

Thought I'd just close the loop on this question. I flipped the Wipperman link and took the bike for a ride yesterday: flawless shifting, no skipping.

Thanks for all who replied.

Neil

This is amazing. I'm so glad I found this post. I have felt like I have a stiff link for some time, but haven't been able to find it. But I also have a wipperman link and according to you guys I also have it upside down.

Can anyone explain why having it upside makes the bike feel like it has a stiff link?

thanks
jw

This is amazing. I'm so glad I found this post. I have felt like I have a stiff link for some time, but haven't been able to find it. But I also have a wipperman link and according to you guys I also have it upside down.

Can anyone explain why having it upside makes the bike feel like it has a stiff link?

thanks
jw

The link is curved. In the smallest cogs the outer plates are hitting the cog spacers instead of the cog teeth.