Mountain Biking - Rear wheel hop when applying disc brake

I searched the forum and couldn't find an answer. Since I put mechanical disc brakes on my bike I've noticed when I apply my rear brake the rear wheel hops. It stops me and locks up but hops. It does this no matter how hard I squeeze the brake. When I had my rim brakes the rear wheel did not hop and would lock up.
F.Y.I. I'm using Nashbar brand disc brakes. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
Thanks in advance for any information.

1. Don't lock up your brakes...skiddin' is forbidden. (puke at the pun)
2. Umm...I dunno...that's wierd, dood.

Wheel hop is when your tire leaves the ground momentarily, then hits the ground again and over and over. It could be a number of things. Do you have a full suspension? When you change the braking it can affect the way the shock reacts. It could be a warped rotor. It could be something on the rotor. It could be the brakes aren't adjusted properly. It could be the rear quick release isn't tight enough or a combination of all. If you figure it out let us know.

I do have a full suspension. I'll check all the things you mentioned tomorrow and if I figure it out I'll let yall know.

I searched the forum and couldn't find an answer. Since I put mechanical disc brakes on my bike I've noticed when I apply my rear brake the rear wheel hops. It stops me and locks up but hops. It does this no matter how hard I squeeze the brake. When I had my rim brakes the rear wheel did not hop and would lock up.
F.Y.I. I'm using Nashbar brand disc brakes. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
Thanks in advance for any information.

What you may be experiencing is what some call "brake jack." This occurs on certain rear suspension designs (particularly single pivot systems, including faux-horst link configurations). True Horst-link designs (or four bar linkage, or Specialized FSR) don't do this. Other swingarm designs that employ a "floating" caliper mount (rare these days) also eliminates this, but has a weight penalty.

You didn't mention what your bike is, but there are two easy ways to test if your rear suspension is susceptible to brake-jack:

1) Sit on FS mtb and squeeze the front brake lever fully, and bob up and down on your saddle to make your rear suspension move as much as you can. It should feel lively and unrestricted. Then, with the front brakes still fully locked, engage your rear brake fully and bob up and down again. If your suspension becomes stiff and unyielding then you have "brake jack."

2) Get a friend to sit on your bike and do the saddle thing (with front brake only) and closely watch the disc brake caliper in relation to your rotor. As the rear suspension move up and down, watch if the caliper is moving forwards and backwards in relation to the rotor circumference. If it does, this is what causes brake-jack. If you did this test on a true Horst linkage, or rear suspension designs with floating rear brakes, the caliper remains in the same spot in relation the rotor throughout the full range of suspension movement.

IF this is the case for your bike, I don't believe that bolt-on remedial attachments are worth pursuing. I think it would be better to learn and adapt a new rear braking technique and be "easy." You possibly didn't notice it with your rim brakes because of slippage, but it would've been there all along.

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Wheel hop is when your tire leaves the ground momentarily, then hits the ground again and over and over.

Thx Webster
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