Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Piece of hub thread peeled off?

I have a brand new set of Mavic CXP22's laced to formula hubs. I loosely screwed a track cog onto the hub once just to see how it worked (I'm new to this), and then loosely unscrewed it immediately after (no grease). No other cog has ever touched the hub. Then about a week later I was looking at the hub and what seemed to be a little piece of the threading where the cog goes peeled off. It was about 1" long and seemed to be the piece at the end of the threading (closed to the center of the hub). This freaked me out a little bit. Should I worry about it?

I have a brand new set of Mavic CXP22's laced to formula hubs. I loosely screwed a track cog onto the hub once just to see how it worked (I'm new to this), and then loosely unscrewed it immediately after (no grease). No other cog has ever touched the hub. Then about a week later I was looking at the hub and what seemed to be a little piece of the threading where the cog goes peeled off. It was about 1" long and seemed to be the piece at the end of the threading (closed to the center of the hub). This freaked me out a little bit. Should I worry about it?
Perhaps it's just shavings left over from when the threads were cut? Do the threads otherwise appear to be intact?

I have a brand new set of Mavic CXP22's laced to formula hubs. I loosely screwed a track cog onto the hub once just to see how it worked (I'm new to this), and then loosely unscrewed it immediately after (no grease). No other cog has ever touched the hub. Then about a week later I was looking at the hub and what seemed to be a little piece of the threading where the cog goes peeled off. It was about 1" long and seemed to be the piece at the end of the threading (closed to the center of the hub). This freaked me out a little bit. Should I worry about it?

who knows when more threading is going to decide to walk out on you?

Why is this stuff so flimsy?
ridiculous.

Perhaps it's just shavings left over from when the threads were cut? Do the threads otherwise appear to be intact?

The threads do look okay otherwise. You may be right. who knows....

formula = crap!

formula = crap!
i've seen you say this a bunch of times without anything to back this up. I, along with a majority of the posters on this forum, have fun formula hubs with no problems whatsoever.

i've seen you say this a bunch of times without anything to back this up. I, along with a majority of the posters on this forum, have fun formula hubs with no problems whatsoever.

he got you.

If you cross-threaded it by accident it might have damaged the threads. Did it feel like there was resistance to it threading on?

Sounds like its just a helical chip from the thread cutting.

sorry, formulas are on par with DA, PHILS. ;o

sorry, formulas are on par with DA, PHILS. ;o

Close enough actually. Start throwing ratcheting mechanisms in there and I'll concede that the more expensive hubs show improvements.

Close enough actually. Start throwing ratcheting mechanisms in there and I'll concede that the more expensive hubs show improvements.

keep feeding.

You never really bothered to elaborate on whether you rode around on the wheel at all. Depending on whether you rode it or not, I can only agree with the opinions that you simply had metal bits from when the hub was initially machined.

I had a similar problem, only the deal was that I had over torqued the cog and lock ring.

Oh, and the formula vs. THE WORLD argument? I've ridden formulas before, in fact I still run in the front. Manufacturing plays a great deal in to the rear wheel of any fixed gear bike. If you have one that is made of a material softer than your cog and lock ring, you are gonna spin right through it and eventually jack your hub up. This typically is a major problem. Also, sealed vs. unsealed should never be disputed, unless you are talking that is as fine and precise as Campagnolo or Dura Ace sealed wins hands down.

Wins what?