Road Cycling - Going Light - What's smart?

Hey guys,

Okay, I finally get my new roadie up and running this weekend. *Yay* I haven't been on the road for a while now - being more of a mountainbike/singlespeed weirdo type guy. Recently, I've decided to get 'road fit' and get back into the roadie thing. This is my new bikes specs -

Frame - Thylacine Tephra, 62cm sloping. Steel, baby.
Forks - Alpha Q X2
Drivetrain - 9 Speed Dura Ace
Brakes - Ultegra
Bar/Stem - Deda 215 / Ritchey WCS
Seat/Post - WTB Pure V Ti / Ritchey WCS
Wheels - Tune Mig/Mag hubs, DT Aerolite spokes 28/32, DT RR1.1 rims
Pedals - Haven't decided. Suggestions welcomed.

Okay, now I've hoiked this thing minus the wheels ( which aren't ready yet ), and it seems pretty damned light to me. The wheels are barely 1300g apparently, so I'm thinking long term about what parts I might replace now or in the future that might be smart ways to lose a few grams and not break the bank or resort to that horrible carbon stuff. Three things I've thought of are -

1) Replace the Ultrgra brakes with Cane Creeks, save 50g
2) Cut the post down so there's no excess
3) I would replace the front STI lever with a downtube shifter and regular brake lever, but I went with head tube mounted bosses so this aint possible. Doh. This is one smart setup, especially with Campy as the non ergo Record brake lever is the same as the ergo one, in terms of shape. Then again, the Campy system is much lighter than STI anyway, so....

Any suggestions/opinions are welcomed. I'll be sure to post pix of the finished bike when it's all put together. It sure is purdy.

Personally I'd go with eggbeater triple TI, they're pretty light and the cleats are too. If you're looking for light brakes i'd consider the zero gravity, though they're expensive at $300. Those wheels sound sweet though.

Oh if you wanted to use a downtube shifter instead of a regular front STI, you could always use a bar end shifter touring style, it'd be heavier than the downtube shifter as it needs a bigger mounting bolt and more cabling.

Longterm you could consider changing out the cranks for something like the tune sixpack system, not carbon and presumeably lighter. Don't know much about those particular bars or stem though. I don't know how light that TI seatpost is, but the new thomson masterpiece is really light.

Keep the money in your pocket, eat one less twinkie per week, and once a month take your girl friend / wife out to dinner with the money you would have wasted shaving grams from your bicycle.

Wrong forum - try posting it here: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=3&sid=adac5182668401136fcc6e2dc8ad54f8

55/Rad

Where am I gunna see ya grindin'? Beach Rd? Or are you in Tassie

Keep the money in your pocket, eat one less twinkie per week, and once a month take your girl friend / wife out to dinner with the money you would have wasted shaving grams from your bicycle.

Amen! This gram counting is just ridiculous.

how light does it have to be? your biggest source of weight is the extra-extra-large frame. and you can't do anything about that. by nipping and trimming and going gram crazy, you might be able to shave off 250 grams. that's 1/2 pound. worth it? probably not unless the whole point of the bike is to make it as light as possible [in which case, you shouldn't have gone with a stell frame].

it looks like you have a great bike. ride it.

counting grams on components is ridiculously expensive. there was something out one time about the exponential rate of increase of cost in weight savings. don't remember it exactly, but once you get to a certain point, it's just not cost-effective.

if you really want to save weight, get a new frame. sounds to me like that's about the only place you'll save significant (i.e. more than 100 grams) weight. steel's great and all, but it's not the lightest material by far. the $/gram ratio would be much better on getting an ultralight frame than on, say, brakes.

Thylacine is a frame builder, therefore it may be good for him to be able to say ooh look I can make light steel race bikes too, look at my bike it's 62cm but yet still comes in at under 7.5kg.

For most people there is a lot to be said for training and losing weight if necessary. When people post saying "ooh should I upgrade my bike I keep on getting dropped" then I wouldn't recommend it. I find it frustrating that people often believe that they need to spend more cash than more hours in the saddle. The weight differences do make minimal difference. That being said some roadies are at their minimum weight. When I'm at my race weight I wouldnt' want to be any lighter. Besides which if you have the money, not that I do, then i'd rather you spent it on a bike than on a new car.

The point is the question posted wasn't "will I go faster if I buy high-zoot components" but "given that I'm building up a very light bike what components should I get?". I agree though you'd get a better reponse to this kind of thing at weight weenies.

Hey guys,

Okay, I finally get my new roadie up and running this weekend. *Yay* I haven't been on the road for a while now - being more of a mountainbike/singlespeed weirdo type guy. Recently, I've decided to get 'road fit' and get back into the roadie thing. This is my new bikes specs -

Frame - Thylacine Tephra, 62cm sloping. Steel, baby.
Forks - Alpha Q X2
Drivetrain - 9 Speed Dura Ace
Brakes - Ultegra
Bar/Stem - Deda 215 / Ritchey WCS
Seat/Post - WTB Pure V Ti / Ritchey WCS
Wheels - Tune Mig/Mag hubs, DT Aerolite spokes 28/32, DT RR1.1 rims
Pedals - Haven't decided. Suggestions welcomed.

Okay, now I've hoiked this thing minus the wheels ( which aren't ready yet ), and it seems pretty damned light to me. The wheels are barely 1300g apparently, so I'm thinking long term about what parts I might replace now or in the future that might be smart ways to lose a few grams and not brake the bank or resort ot that horrible carbon stuff. Three things I've thought of are -

1) Replace the Ultrgra brakes with Cane Creeks, save 50g
2) Cut the post down so there's no excess
3) I would replace the front STI lever with a downtube shifter and regular brake lever, but I went with head tube mounted bosses so this aint possible. Doh. This is one smart setup, especially with Campy as the non ergo Record brake lever is the same as the ergo one, in terms of shape. Then again, the Campy system is much lighter than STI anyway, so....

Any suggestions/opinions are welcomed. I'll be sure to post pix of the finished bike when it's all put together. It sure is purdy.



Uhhh, maybe a few less donuts?

so you built your own frame is that what your saying?

/rant on

If somebody wants to spend money reducing the weight of his vehicle, that it his business. It is NOBODYS business to tell him to diet till his arms look like sticks and his chest resembles a nine year old's. I swear, everytime someone asks a question about saving a few grams, out come the weight nazis. There is enough self righteousness in Road Biking that we don't need a bunch weight watcher nannies reminding folks about thier waistline. I guess if you don't have 3 percent bodyfat and the body of bulimic supermodel, you should be condemed to 35 lb Schwinn Varsity. :mad:

/rant off

As other, kinder posters have said, your frame has the most potentential for weight savings.

Yes, I'm the owner of Thylacine Cycles. Yes, this is my own personal bike.

I'm not a weight weenie. Do you HONESTLY think I'd build myself a steel frame if I was? Come on people. The title of the thread is "Going Light - What's Smart", not "I'm a weenie - how can I spend 300 bucks to lose 100g".

Also, I'm 6ft 4ins 200lbs. I'm not a climber, and I firmly blame my parents for that fact. Well, that and the fact that I'm not exactly 'race fit'.

I started this thread because I was seeing a lot of people dump their front STI shifter in favour of a downtube shifter and brake lever, and over the past year or so researching road bikes and road bike parts, I noticed that there were quite a few components that offered great value that were often cheaper and lighter than some of the excepted 'standard' parts.

I think everyone thinks about weight at least some of the time. My aim here isn't to create a 15lb steel bike, but just to hear what smart choices you have made on components that offer great weight/price/performance value.

(531Aussie - yeah, I'll be pounding Beach Rd. My aim is to attempt to get some miles in the legs over winter, then get a bit more serious next summer. The trick will be trying to stay focussed over our Melbourne Winter, which ain't pretty huh.)

It sounds like you have most of smart weight savings covered. If your wheels are 1300 grams, there is not much you could save there...are they clinchers? Tubulars versions (if available) will save another 40 to 50 grams per wheel and tufos are about 215 grams each...that could be another 50 grams per wheel. That could be 200 grams of rotating weight...and isn't rotating weight what really counts. Dura Ace cranks are about as light as you can get, speedplay pedals would be a good option. You could also go with the alien carbon seat post...sorry I brought in the dreaded c word...but at 135grams, what can I say. :p

I for one, am always interested in learning more about saving weight, especially as it pertains to steel frames - although I wouldn't consider myself OCD about it. (not yet) I have 2 steelies and the lighter one is a respectable 18.5 pounds.

I suggested the weight weenies site purely because I felt you would get more solid responses and insight than you might get here. The problem with that site is the name itself - it implies an almost derogatory anti-social attitude. But the truth is, there is a lot of interesting information over there.

I apologize for not communicating my intentions clearly enough.

55/Rad

Yes, I'm the owner of Thylacine Cycles. Yes, this is my own personal bike.

Are you building this one?

Yes, I'm the owner of Thylacine Cycles. Yes, this is my own personal bike.

I'm not a weight weenie. Do you HONESTLY think I'd build myself a steel frame if I was? Come on people. The title of the thread is "Going Light - What's Smart", not "I'm a weenie - how can I spend 300 bucks to lose 100g".

Also, I'm 6ft 4ins 200lbs. I'm not a climber, and I firmly blame my parents for that fact. Well, that and the fact that I'm not exactly 'race fit'.

I started this thread because I was seeing a lot of people dump their front STI shifter in favour of a downtube shifter and brake lever, and over the past year or so researching road bikes and road bike parts, I noticed that there were quite a few components that offered great value that were often cheaper and lighter than some of the excepted 'standard' parts.

I think everyone thinks about weight at least some of the time. My aim here isn't to create a 15lb steel bike, but just to hear what smart choices you have made on components that offer great weight/price/performance value.

(531Aussie - yeah, I'll be pounding Beach Rd. My aim is to attempt to get some miles in the legs over winter, then get a bit more serious next summer. The trick will be trying to stay focussed over our Melbourne Winter, which ain't pretty huh.)

awe cool ok I just saw your web site. I was just curious. Sorry I can't help you w/ the weight stuff cause I really don't know whats out there...

If you remove the bike, it will be a lot lighter...

The Tufo Tubular Clinchers are pretty interesting pieces of gear. I've contacted them to arrange some samples to see how they go. Man, my pile of 'tires to test' over there in the corner is getting out of hand.

I've been to the Starbike-Weight Weenies page. Generally, it's pretty scarry *laugh*. For some people, making the lightest bike on the planet is a hobby in itself. That's cool I guess, it's just not my style.

The Alien carbon is maybe worth a look. I'm not sure how much my cut down WCS post is, but I like the layback on it and it's good value. I'm also not sure about the Speedplays. There's definitely mixed opinions on them, but I'll keep doing my research and see what happens. Pedals are definitely a tough call.

Has anyone tried the Cane Creek BRS200 SL brakes?

Hey guys,

Okay, I finally get my new roadie up and running this weekend. *Yay* I haven't been on the road for a while now - being more of a mountainbike/singlespeed weirdo type guy. Recently, I've decided to get 'road fit' and get back into the roadie thing. This is my new bikes specs -

Frame - Thylacine Tephra, 62cm sloping. Steel, baby.
Forks - Alpha Q X2
Drivetrain - 9 Speed Dura Ace
Brakes - Ultegra
Bar/Stem - Deda 215 / Ritchey WCS
Seat/Post - WTB Pure V Ti / Ritchey WCS
Wheels - Tune Mig/Mag hubs, DT Aerolite spokes 28/32, DT RR1.1 rims
Pedals - Haven't decided. Suggestions welcomed.

Okay, now I've hoiked this thing minus the wheels ( which aren't ready yet ), and it seems pretty damned light to me. The wheels are barely 1300g apparently, so I'm thinking long term about what parts I might replace now or in the future that might be smart ways to lose a few grams and not break the bank or resort to that horrible carbon stuff. Three things I've thought of are -

1) Replace the Ultrgra brakes with Cane Creeks, save 50g
2) Cut the post down so there's no excess
3) I would replace the front STI lever with a downtube shifter and regular brake lever, but I went with head tube mounted bosses so this aint possible. Doh. This is one smart setup, especially with Campy as the non ergo Record brake lever is the same as the ergo one, in terms of shape. Then again, the Campy system is much lighter than STI anyway, so....

Any suggestions/opinions are welcomed. I'll be sure to post pix of the finished bike when it's all put together. It sure is purdy.

Having had both brakes, I'd say stick with the Ultegra brakes. In my experience the better stopping power outweighs the weight advantage of the Cane Creeks. As my LBS says, "the Cane Creeks are good for slowing, not so much for stopping."

If you want a good low-weight brake caliper, nothing beats the Mavic SSC...

Whats the weight/price fo the Mavic Brakes? Haven't heard much about them.

you've probably seen this

http://www.mavic.com/servlet/srt/mavic/road-prod_fiche?product.id=84&lg=uk

quote "Keep the money in your pocket, eat one less twinkie per week, and once a month take your girl friend / wife out to dinner with the money you would have wasted shaving grams from your bicycle."

Quote "Uhhh, maybe a few less donuts?"

Quote "If you remove the bike, it will be a lot lighter..."

Quote "Are you building this one? and "so you built your own frame is that what your saying?

Quote "Amen! This gram counting is just ridiculous."

Amen-this guy has the patience, of a framebuilder.
I thought you were gonna PHREAK!
Good luck with the building, can't wait for pics. Hope you give it a trick paint job (the landshark you posted is wild.)

Hey- you can make the bike lighter- By not using steel! Go figure. :rolleyes:
Now back to the SERIOUS posts on components.
Jef.

grams... be careful not to get any dirt while you are riding...

don't sweat on it...

don't bring water...

and by all means, don't get in shape. Ride what you have more and you will get in better shape (loose much more weight), climb better, and save $s. If/when you race, then go for the advantage. You need the instant savings when it counts. That is where the advantage comes in.

/rant on


As other, kinder posters have said, your frame has the most potentential for weight savings.

if you post here thats the price you pay.
if you waive your hands and call attention to yourself can you blame someone for noticing and saying something?

quote "Keep the money in your pocket, eat one less twinkie per week, and once a month take your girl friend / wife out to dinner with the money you would have wasted shaving grams from your bicycle."

Quote "Uhhh, maybe a few less donuts?"

Quote "If you remove the bike, it will be a lot lighter..."

Quote "Are you building this one? and "so you built your own frame is that what your saying?

Quote "Amen! This gram counting is just ridiculous."

Amen-this guy has the patience, of a framebuilder.
I thought you were gonna PHREAK!
Good luck with the building, can't wait for pics. Hope you give it a trick paint job (the landshark you posted is wild.)

Hey- you can make the bike lighter- By not using steel! Go figure. :rolleyes:
Now back to the SERIOUS posts on components.
Jef.

Man, you gotta have patience running a little bike company. If I got flustered everytime some armchair critic bagged me out, I'd probably be in a psych ward somewhere writing a manifesto on the evils of cycling, and why Segways are our saviour.
Yes yes, I know I coulda gone lighter if I hadn't gone with steel. But you know what? SCREW THAT :) Steel rocks and I love the stuff. Maybe for my next roadie I'll tap my ti welder on the shoulder and hand him some new blueprints, but for now, steel is real and I'm gunna ride that baby (when the *&%$ing LBS finally finishes my pimp wheels ) until I cannae ride no mohr.

I'll pass on the Mavic brakes I think. 315g, no quick release......why, I ask? Anyway, I've dropped Paul of Paul Components an email to try and persuade him to get into the road bike brake market. Don't hold your breath though, it aint exactly his core business.

Pedals are tough, tough, tough. I kinda hate them all. *laugh* What about the Coombes? Anyone got any experience with them? Did I mention they're made of steel? ;)

Thylacine.

Paul's makes a road brake but its a centerpull design and a custom installation. I'm
of the opinion that they are an improvement over traditional centerpulls (which
were good contrary to everyone's opinion).
I haven't heard much about the Coombe pedals, except some minor issues
with cleat compatability (sidi shoes?). Very similiar in design/theory to Speedplay.
They are pricey tho. could get Speedplays for same price (or less).
Some really nice sewup rims and tubulars will save you a bit of rotational weight.

marty

[QUOTE=Thylacine]
Yes yes, I know I coulda gone lighter if I hadn't gone with steel. But you know what? SCREW THAT :) Steel rocks and I love the stuff.

I like steel alot, but I also like my kestrel and my new scandium frame is interesting too...I find ti bikes not as light as carbon, and not as stiff. ;)

I've only tried the crane creek brakes while testing a bike a few years back, they worked fine, those green pads are nice and sticky. But I'm the type that only use my brakes to modulate my speed...road bikes are for going fast. Campy levers have the quick release built into them, therefore no quick release required for the calipers.

Man, you gotta have patience running a little bike company. If I got flustered everytime some armchair critic bagged me out, I'd probably be in a psych ward somewhere writing a manifesto on the evils of cycling, and why Segways are our saviour.
Yes yes, I know I coulda gone lighter if I hadn't gone with steel. But you know what? SCREW THAT :) Steel rocks and I love the stuff. Maybe for my next roadie I'll tap my ti welder on the shoulder and hand him some new blueprints, but for now, steel is real and I'm gunna ride that baby (when the *&%$ing LBS finally finishes my pimp wheels ) until I cannae ride no mohr.

I'll pass on the Mavic brakes I think. 315g, no quick release......why, I ask? Anyway, I've dropped Paul of Paul Components an email to try and persuade him to get into the road bike brake market. Don't hold your breath though, it aint exactly his core business.

Pedals are tough, tough, tough. I kinda hate them all. *laugh* What about the Coombes? Anyone got any experience with them? Did I mention they're made of steel? ;)

If anybody wants me me to pay $800+ for a bike frame, it better be made of steel, and some really good alloying. :D If I may ask- Any info on the NiTi tubing Ritchey is using, as I am considering a second NEW :) frameworks from him.
To me Alu frames would only be an economic coice. Not having the cash for steel (ride old) or Titanium.

if you post here thats the price you pay.

My mistake. I thought this was a friendly forum for advice and discussion.

Now that I know it is for soap boxes and insults, I will post accordingly.

Keep the Ultegra and STI and,ok,cut the post otherwise maybe a lighter wheelset and tires,cassette,crank and bb,thats 300-350g for maybe 1200-1300 bucks.4 bucks a gram is to much unless its not a big deal for money,then what the hell.