Framebuilders - More Dropout Questions

Hello,

I've got a mid 80's katakura silk hand/custom built frame with two problems. One cracked dropout and one badly repaired wheel stay. I guess the third problem would be my low budget.

Many pix on flickr here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/29677694@N05/sets/72157614878968198/

As a bonus there is a bunch of roller derby pictures on my photo stream if you're into that sort of thing.

Some questions if you've got the time:

1. Can I repair the dropout itself or is this an automatic replace? My good friend is a very clever welder, though not a frame builder.

2. If I need to replace the dropout, can anyone ID the dropouts and fill me in on where to find one? If I find one, do they come with deraileur rings or is that brazed on after installing in the frame? Where do you get the ring?

3. How worried should I be regarding the stay? Remove the paint and look for cracks? File it down and fill in with brass? Keep my fragile ass of this deathtrap?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Here's a similar dropout...without the eyelet or axle adjuster screw hole....the drive side already has the derailler hanger.

Nova Cycles (http://www.novacycles.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_114_265&products_id=1332&osCsid=81e83195405042c1f3dff9ec2281cb52)


As far as that seatstay is concerned....what the heck happened??? I would definitely replace that. It's not a difficult thing to replace.

I bought the frame as is, no idea how it broke or who fixed it. Seat stays are brazed on? Remove the whole thing and get a new one? This seems like I would have to involve a real deal frame builder?

Thank you for the link, those look like they would work.

With the seat stay, measure everything on the original and then mitre the top end to match the other side? Is it filled with brass to close the end during install?

Sorry, I'm well out of my technical depth here.

It is probably not filled with brass. There are 2 ways to do seatstay caps. Either cut them and braze on a cap, or use a plug in style bullet cap. The plug in is easier, but heavier.

Here's a link (http://www.kirkframeworks.com/jk_cross1.htm) showing how to do the cap. Scroll down to the bottom of the page.

For the plug in style, again Nova (http://www.novacycles.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=61_137_152&osCsid=17b9d3545269d41b0b052585132b7379) has them for sale.

If the seatstay is not damaged. You could just get a plug in style cap. Cut the seatstay to accept the new plug in, and braze it into the seat stay and the seat lug.

But if you've never done any brazing or framebuilding before....best to get some help with it. If you don't line it up very carefully, you're rear wheel will be out of alignment.

if you don't have much of a budget, leave the seatstays alone for now. The dropout can be tig welded.

Thank you for the links. I'm good with the DO replacement, not so sure about tackling the seat stay. I will have to see how far a six pack gets me with my welding buddy.