Classic & Vintage - building a Schwinn High Sierra.

I have a 1987 Schwinn High Sierra that I am building, and I need some advice. All I have is the frame and fork, with the brakes installed (rollercam).

My first question is about headset and bottom bracket - what do I need to measure to find the right size?

The fork is threaded, so I know I need a threaded headset, and I am pretty sure it is 1", so I am looking to buy a reasonably priced sealed headset to have the shop install it - all they have are Chris King, and no way I am spending that kind of $$. What measurements do I need to make to get the right size? Any recomendations?

Bottom Braket - What do I need to measure to get the right one? One again, recommendations are welcome.

Once I get it that far together, I will come back for more help.

I will take pictures - it is a sweet frame - double butted cro-moly, in black chrome.
I don't plan to do any serious mountain biking with it - it will be used to pull my daughter's trailer and ride some mighty flat dirt trails around here in N Texas.
You helped immensely with my Suteki (I need to put up pictures of that beautiful ride as well) and I am hoping for some good advice on this bike as well.

No tips?

As a Schwinn lover start with a better frame. It is not worth the price of the components you mentioned. Roger

As a Schwinn lover start with a better frame. It is not worth the price of the components you mentioned.What? I dunno if I would put a Chris King headset in mine, but I think it's a pretty nice frame -- tig and fillet-brazed cro-mo. I think the OP was looking for a cheaper HS solution anyway ... the roller cams came on it.

http://www.geocities.com/sldbconsumer/1987/87atb07.html

Bob

As far as parts go, you could go pretty basic, or you could spend a fortune. If it were me, i'd check through Nashbar or Performance for basic, sturdy components. Then I'd check with an LBS, to see if they had anything second hand. It sounds like you're going to need just about everything, which will get expensive quick. Do you have any spare parts you could use? Can you get a donor bike for cheap?

I also had a Suteki.

So you picked up the $120 sierra frame that came out on CL?. You could buy a cheap 80's mountain bike for parts, I got 2 complete sierra's (84 and 85) I picked up for $40 each including the sought after Araya 26x1.75 wheels on them, don't know what I'm going to do with them yet, they ride pretty nice though.

I thnk it's a really nice frame. I am trying to avoid buying the expensive headset - that is why I came here for advice.

I thought the high sierra was a higher end mtb.

It is the craigslist frame, but I got it cheaper than that.

I would be interested in buying one of your Sierras for parts.

I'll let you know if I get rid of one of them.

I don't know much about Schwinns. That said, older MTBs and BMX bikes have slightly different fork steerer tubes than some other bikes. The OD will be correct for a standard 1" threaded headset. The ID may be .833 inch (21.1mm) instead of 7/8 inch (22.2 mm), in which case your stem selection is slightly different.

You will need to measure the crown race on the fork to see what specific headset to order. Your LBS should be able to mike all this stuff out for you.

The BB should be the stand English threading, with a 68mm shell. Spindle length depends on the crankset you use.

I think your bike is a higher end of my Schwinn which a Mirada.
Does it look like this?

Pretty much, but mine is just a frame.

Nice looking bike - are there any markings on your handlebars? Those are the ones that I want, and I dont' know what their name is.

So do I need to buy a crankset first, and then the bottom bracket, to make sure I get the right one?

Get a cheap ladies Mtb off of CL as a parts donor.

are there any markings on your handlebars? Those are the ones that I want, and I dont' know what their name is. Those are "Bullmoose" bars. They were originated by Ritchey Mountianbikes:

http://www.oldmountainbikes.com/catalogs/mountainbikes/1981/MountainBikes1981_12-13.jpg

The style was copied and ended up on quite a few low-end bikes in the mid-1980s. Be careful that you find some that are either alloy or cro-mo as the chromed-carbon-steel ones weigh a ton. You will pay a bit for the good ones (unless you are lucky) as they have become a bit collectible.

Bob

Woah - those are pricey.

I'm in Dallas - there don't seem to be many cheap mountain bikes around. If I see one I will grab it.

I have an slightly newer Sierra (post-rollercam) with a full chromoly frame (main tubes and stays) it seems like a pretty nice bike. It has all the original stuff on it, but I am thinking of swapping out some parts and having it replace the current old mnt bike I have been using.

I think the idea of the ladies mountain bike suggested by riva is a capital idea. That will let you get it built up and ridable and then if you really love it can upgrade selected parts as needed.

I have a 1987 Schwinn High Sierra that I am building, and I need some advice. All I have is the frame and fork, with the brakes installed (rollercam).

I will take pictures - it is a sweet frame - double butted cro-moly, in black chrome.
I don't plan to do any serious mountain biking with it - it will be used to pull my daughter's trailer and ride some mighty flat dirt trails around here in N Texas.
You helped immensely with my Suteki (I need to put up pictures of that beautiful ride as well) and I am hoping for some good advice on this bike as well.

I've got one of those...I think it's a terrific frame. I have those Araya wheels with mine.

Show some pix! The black chrome on mine was stripped.

There is one on this Forum set up like a Touring bike. It's really cool. Mine is sort of gangsta with whitewalls and red cables.

I always liked the black chrome that Schwinn used on a couple of their bikes. After a few years they discontinued it. We were told that the manufacturing process created hazardous waste above and beyond approved guidelines, and had been outlawed in Taiwan.

GregG

I'll take some photos this weekend - the black chrome is really nice.

I now have a bottom bracket (installed), bontrager bars, and a crankset (partial trade for another bike I had). I had thought about setting the bike up with road wheels, but I am going to do mountain wheels first, because I already have a nice road rig.

I am going to go as black as I can with components. I think it will look super sharp when I am finished.

I know that older road wheels have shorter axles than modern wheels - is the same true for old mountain bikes?

Just a note fro those keeping score - and the person who finds this via googling - the rear dropusts are 127 mm.

I have actually got most of my parts now - I found a local guy that has some nice black wheels/hubs for me (WTB) and some grip shifters and other parts. I need to either find a quill stem or go with the adapter and a more modern stem.

I have actually got most of my parts now - I found a local guy that has some nice black wheels/hubs for me (WTB) and some grip shifters and other parts. I need to either find a quill stem or go with the adapter and a more modern stem.

If you haven't picked out a stem yet, may I suggest that you look at an adjustable one. I keep a quill one around to dial in my handlebar possition and then swap out with a fixed one. I did have one for threadless, but I ended up on my nephews birthday bike. I have found it works well. One of the problems with a bullmoose bar is that you cannot adjust you stem. The 84 Schwinn Sierras came with an adjustable seat post to help fit the rider.

Does anyone make a black adjustable one?

That's good advice.

Does anyone make a black adjustable one?

That's good advice.

I just checked Niagra bike works, they have some ProMax ones for ~$17. The key is to get a long quill. This will allow you use the hight to also adjust the angle. It easier to show than type but I will try:
Your head tube slopes back @ ~70 degrees, so as you rase the stem it shortens the effective top tube length, if you lower it you are more streched out. When you can also adjust the angle of the rise of the stem you can dial in hight and and length. The nice thing is it only takes one allen wrench to move both adjustments.

One of those came on our wildwood. It had a warning sticker saying not to adjust it! :rolleyes: I have it adjusted all the way down now.

It says do not adjust the tention on the main pivot. Underneath the riser part of the stem you will find an allen headed bolt that secures a pawl. That is the part you can adjust.

My two cents: don't put on an adjustable stem... I really don't like the looks of them and it doesn't fit the look of the bike.
As far as getting components, eBay is your friend here. Regarding headsets, since 1-1/8 and threadless have taken over, 1-inch threaded headsets (which is what you need) are out of fashion and thus cheap on eBay. I have seen new-in-box Shimano DX headsets for cheap. This would be perfect for your purpose. If you can't find a bullmoose-style handlebar, there are plenty mid-grade good condition used 1-inch stems on eBay. Don't buy a new imported stem, look for a 90's castoff like a Tioga T-bone or the like. It will look like your bike was "upgraded" in the early 90's. Have fun!

What do I need to measure on the frame and the fork to ensure I get the right headset?

I bought a set of WTB hubs/ wheels in black, grip shifters, a NOS front derailer, and some other parts from an ebay guy who happens to be local, and I have some other parts I have picked up. Pretty much a headset and tires are all I need, and then I can put this thing together.

Cool, Let us see pictures when you get a chance. FWIW I only use the adjustable stem to dial in the fit, then switch to a regular stem.