Long Distance Competition/Ultracycling, Randonneuring and Endurance Cycling - Thanks for all of your training advice -- now to the fun stuff -- Bikes and Gear

I want to thank you all for the training advice as I seek to increase my distance and capacity. I have taken you advice to heart, particularly the advice about overtraining and too much intensity. Guilty. For much of my adult life, I have tried to cram as much as possible into the limited amount of workout time left after work and family. So, I hit the ground ready to hammer. This is not always a good thing. As I have increased distance, I have realized that I can't necessarily train at the same level of intensity (keen grasp of the obvious). Last week, I did two long and intense workouts back-to-back and was completely trashed on the third day. I am also realizing, after 53 years of avoiding sleep, that I need more if I am going to train, recover, and improve. So, I am learning, painful though it may be.

But the subject of this post is gear from a certified gear junkie. I have several avocations / hobbies that are an excuse to be high end gear intensive. With three males and one female in our household, my wife has standard complaints about guys and their gear. As a cheap Midwesterner, I have learned that used high end gear is the way to go. I can almost always find someone who, in a short burst of enthusiasm, bought high end stuff, used it a few times, and retired it to a closet or garage for the next six or seven years.

I have too many bikes. My bike accumulation is, basically, my sports car collection at a small fraction of the price. I have a handful of C&V bikes that I ride for fun and otherwise gaze at in admiration. I also have a handful of Ti bikes, three of which are my daily riders. My Ti bikes were acquired, whether as complete bikes or frames and parts, using the used gear theory, above. I like to tell people who are shocked at my Ti bikes that I acquired them for the same as, or less than, the MSRP of a midlevel Scott Addict.

At any rate, here are my three regularly riders for your review, criticism, and suggestions about how to make them more functional LD bikes. This is the fun stuff, like guys meeting to show off their cars. Timeless.

First is my 1998 Litespeed Ultimate. I went looking specifically for this frame, including the now UCF illegal curved seatpost. This bike was designed to be a rocket and does that job very well. I think I'll leave it in this configuration.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0103r.jpg

Next is my 1994 Litespeed Catalyst that I built up from a frame. $25 Ultegra 9-speed RD's are a gift from the Bay or the List. This bike is at the big bike end of my range with a 56.5 TT given that my ideal TT is 54-55. As a result, it has big bike steadiness. It has a compact crank and a 12-25 cassette. I am going to switch out for a slightly shorter Cinelli XA quill.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0004r-1.jpg

Finally, my newly acquired 1998 Litespeed Appalachian complete with 90's deep V rims. I got this bike off the bay and it turned out to me a size smaller than I expected with a 52cm TT. None the less, it rode so well from the beginning that I kept tweaking it until I achieved a somewhat more upright version of my standard road cockpit. The Vredestein Perfect Moiree 32mm are very heavy and will go through just about all road conditions. I know from comparison that the tires probably cost me 1.5 mph. It presently has cyclocross gearing with 48/38 -- 12/25. I had a brief, but intense, Fredish moment when I installed the rear rack and trunk. But has passed and I think all is OK.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0008a-1.jpg

And, just for fun, here is my super great deal 1994 Performance branded Ti road bike converted to a sub 15 lb SS with 53 x 18 gearing.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0017r.jpg

So, these are the bikes I will me using at I move on to the next phase of cycling.


Thanks again for all of your help.

RFC

I'm sensing a theme here. ;)

One good thing about training is that it will give you many opportunities to experiment and tweak your various bikes. Given the depth of your stable, I'd likely select one as a "fast & flat" bike, and make sure that at least one is set up with low gears for hilly centuries. You may also find that the more upright positions work better on the longer rides, depending of course on how fast you are.

You should also have some fenders handy. If you're doing doubles, you may want to try aero bars.

Have fun....

I would get shorter stems and move my saddle back. Fenders are probably a good idea, but not critical.

...I had a brief, but intense, Fredish moment when I installed the rear rack and trunk. But has passed and I think all is OK.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b384/RCopple/IMG_0008a-1.jpg


RFC


What's wrong with a rack and trunk? Because of STI I don't want to use a large handlebar bag, so I just installed a rack and trunk.

Just kidding. There are road cyclists who would walk barefoot on broken glass before putting a rear rack on their bikes.

Just kidding. There are road cyclists who would walk barefoot on broken glass before putting a rear rack on their bikes.

Prolly the same guys that scoff at fenders and 28mm tires :)

Those look like light and zippy bikes.
I really can't comment on them other than on aesthetics. I'm in the traditional bike fit camp; and to me, all of your bikes look too small. I realize that's the fashion today. But, the seatpost and stem are both at least an inch or two higher than they need to be if the frame were taller. I realize that the top tube length is probably the culprit here and that you're trying to maintain that optimal saddle to bar distance. Anyway, just an observation and not at all meant to be a criticism.