Bicycle Mechanics - 130 mm hub in 135 mm spacing?

i might have the opportunity to pick up a kona major jake frame for near cost this year. i race cyclo-cross, and my current frame, a 2001 major jake, is great, but showing its age. besides, the new majors are really nice.

the problem is that the rear spacing is 135mm this year, to accommodate a mtb hub for folks who want to run disks, if they like. my problem is that i would jump my group over to the new frame, and all of my stuff is campy, so i couldn't use an mtp hub.

would it be practical to run a 130mm hub in 135mm spacing? 5mm isn't a huge amount of space, and perhaps some kind of spacer might be needed on the hub, as well as a longer skewer. the frame is alu, and can't be bent...

opinions?

i might have the opportunity to pick up a kona major jake frame for near cost this year. i race cyclo-cross, and my current frame, a 2001 major jake, is great, but showing its age. besides, the new majors are really nice.

the problem is that the rear spacing is 135mm this year, to accommodate a mtb hub for folks who want to run disks, if they like. my problem is that i would jump my group over to the new frame, and all of my stuff is campy, so i couldn't use an mtp hub.

would it be practical to run a 130mm hub in 135mm spacing? 5mm isn't a huge amount of space, and perhaps some kind of spacer might be needed on the hub, as well as a longer skewer. the frame is alu, and can't be bent...

opinions?

If it was my bike, I'd get a 135mm axle set for a (gasp) Shimano hub. Then I'd substitute my existing Campy cones and fiddle with the axle spacers until everything fit. You'll probably have to redish the rim, but that's not a big deal either.

I found out I've been pinching a 126mm axle into 130mm rear triangle spacing on a 2.8 Cannondale frame, so far no problems, and it's been that way for at least 9 years.

retro... i though of that, but part of the reason i have campy on my cross rig is that i like being able to swap wheels between bikes.

I run a1995 Campy Mirage 8spd on a 135mm touring frame. Its a factory option. Check the Campy catalogue (the full one, not the gruppo publicity material), for a 135 axle/skewer conversion.

I run a1995 Campy Mirage 8spd on a 135mm touring frame. Its a factory option. Check the Campy catalogue (the full one, not the gruppo publicity material), for a 135 axle/skewer conversion.

I just pored through the entire hard-copy 2004 catalog, as well as the 3 PDFs I found that comprise the 2004 spare parts + tools catalog and couldn't find anything of the sort. Nor could I locate it in QBP's wholesale catalog.. Do you know: if they stopped making it and when; who might have it; and if it's compatible with newer hubs?

Thanks.

Yoni.

I think its an old option, no longer available, and NOT compatable with modern Campy designs.

Hmm, thanks..

I've been wondering about this because I'm gonna have the opportunity to build myself a frame soon and I was planning to make a touring bike, but I'm trying to figure out if 135 mm hubs are really all that much stronger than 130. I'd like to figure out a way to use Campy Ergo shifting, which would be easiest w/campy hubs (unless I use a conversion kit..), which seem to all be 130 mm.

I've been trying to figure out whether to ask this in the Touring forum or Mech, but since it's kinda related to this post: would it really be so wrong to try and do some loaded touring on 130-mm hubs?

Anyone? Thanks..

voni: I believe American Classic makes a Campy compaitable cassette with Shimano splines. This way you could use a 135mm Shmano MTB rear hub and Campy components.

Go for 135, it is stronger. Dont use Campy hubs for touring, the bearing placement is all wrong, Shimano are better. Phill Woods hubs are a good solution as well. If you want to run Campy shifters with a Shimano hub, then use a cog cluster with replaceable spacers. Marchisio make a good one. You can make any indexing work on any spline fitting, and you can replace cogs individually.

Go for 135, it is stronger. Dont use Campy hubs for touring, the bearing placement is all wrong, Shimano are better. Phill Woods hubs are a good solution as well. If you want to run Campy shifters with a Shimano hub, then use a cog cluster with replaceable spacers. Marchisio make a good one. You can make any indexing work on any spline fitting, and you can replace cogs individually.

Yeah, from what I've been hearing/reading, it looks like non-Campy hubs w/American Classic or Marchisio cogs are the way to go..

I'm still interested in finding out why wider hub/dropout spacing makes for a stronger wheel: does it have to do with distribution of load on the the axle, or the stresses somewhere else in the wheel?

And then as far as the bad bearing placement you mentioned on Campy hubs: are the bearing races far inboard of the freehub lockring? I'm assuming this is the case because sheldonbrown.com mentions something about Shimano patenting the bearing placement in their cassette hubs, so that other manufacturers couldn't take advantage of the stronger axle a freehub could provide..

Thanks,
Yoni.

135 spacing means that you can build the hub with less dish.
Campy bearings are placed inboard of the whole freehub assembly, ie inside the hub flange leaving the axle unsuported.