Touring - Is this a good road/tour bike?

Actually, I'm not even sure if this IS a road bike. xD
http://chambana.craigslist.org/bik/1099576648.html

I calculated my bike fit like you guys told me in my other thread, so now I'm looking at used bikes~ I need an 18" (46cm) frame, but no used places around here are selling 18" frame bikes. I've resorted to the internet. That link that I have above is a 19" frame, which shouldn't be a big deal right? It's the smallest I've found.

Is it a good deal? And more importantly, is it a decent enough bike for me to go touring with? The guy I talked to at a local bike shop said that since I'm so small, I would be better off just riding a road bike and don't have to worry about getting a sturdier tour bike or something. Keep in mind that I'm 5'0", 90 lbs, and I don't plan on carrying a very heavy load.

If not that one, then what about this?
http://chambana.craigslist.org/bik/1109640396.html
It's a 20" frame... would a bike that's 2 inches off the right fit be bad?

Thank you! <3

Edit: Oh, I know they're probably not super good bikes or anything, but my budget is low (I'm cringing at anything over $250) and I'll probably have to sell the bike in a couple years anyway when I graduate. I just want something that's efficient and will get me through a couple summers of touring. =]

The Blue one would be better for long rides.

Could you tell me why? =]
And also, what about the tradeoff for those reasons and the size?

Edit: Oh, also also, are either of those "adequate" in general? I don't want to get a cheap bike if it's not going to be good for me on the road.

for that much money you should be able to find better bikes. It's quite possible both bikes have steel rims. You do not want to spend that much money for bikes with steel rims. The Schwinn almost weighs half as much as you do if it has steel rims. It's a tank,,it would make an adequate touring bike with aluminum rims.

I just got this for $260 shipped:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200328374998

Could you tell me why? =]
And also, what about the tradeoff for those reasons and the size?

Edit: Oh, also also, are either of those "adequate" in general? I don't want to get a cheap bike if it's not going to be good for me on the road.

You need a bike to start riding.

I started on a bike with steel rims.

Aluminum Rims did not make my old bike any lighter or faster.
Rode it 1500 miles.
The blue one has road handle type bars.

Once you get 1000 miles on your legs you can look for a better bike and sell the Blue One.
At 1000 miles you will know more about riding and be much stronger

I just got this for $260 shipped:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=200328374998

The Op is looking for a smaller bike.
What does your bike have to do with the OP?

You are going to have to be patient. I'd suggest learning about bikes so you have an idea of what you want.

The girly frame is not as strong as the usual diamond frame. Not a big deal ordinarily, but can cause trouble with the added weight of touring...

How tall are you again?

The Op is looking for a smaller bike.
What does your bike have to do with the OP?

I figured the inference would be clear,so i apologize if it wasn't, but it is to give an idea of what can be purchased for around the amount they are looking to spend. I purchased a bike well suited for fully loaded, the OP posted a couple of bikes that are better suited for getting around a campus. I wanted to show what can be purchased within their budget. The size has nothing to do with what I posted. Sorry if that wasn't obvious.

if those were the only choices and she had to get a bike tomorrow those would be adequate choices. For a 90lb person I'd be more picky. If the op is riding in rain then aluminum rims brake better besides being lighter. Regarding comparative strength of ladies/mixte frame and diamond the issue is moot for such a light person.

if those were the only choices and she had to get a bike tomorrow those would be adequate choices. For a 90lb person I'd be more picky. If the op is riding in rain then aluminum rims brake better besides being lighter. Regarding comparative strength of ladies/mixte frame and diamond the issue is moot for such a light person.

She offered Two Choices.
She wants a Good Bike to start with.
But $125 bucks won't buy a $1000 bike.

She just needs a bike to learn what riding is all about.
Once she figures out what she really Needs in a bike, she can then get one that fits for the type of biking she wants to do.

She was clear,,maybe used bikes cost more in Illinois than Maryland but when I see an old Sears bike or an old schwinn varsity I'm thinking these are the kind of bikes you get for free or $50 with some good yard sale shopping or asking around as many friends as you can. When I see prices like $150 bucks for these bikes that's what you pay when someone selling wants to make money,,ie. retail at a pawn shop.

You might check out this kind of operation, I bought a used 3 spd from a shop in Berkeley that was like this. I paid $75 for an old 3spd that I used for five days, cheaper than renting a car. If you have the time you'll get an education as well as a bike or connections with folks who can keep an eye out for what you're looking for

http://thebikeproject.org/get_a_bike.html

Ah I had a long-ish post typed up but it disappeared o_O; I'll just make it short now.

Thanks for the eBay link, although the thing is... I don't think it really helps me, because I really can't differentiate that well between the bike you showed me and the bikes I linked. There's differences, sure, but I just don't know what makes the discrepancy between a cheap bike and an expensive bike.

Also, I do know what type of biking I want to do. I want to make a couple trips to Ohio and back this summer (~400 miles one way, not sure if I'll get a ride back or not) and I want to take a trip to Ontario (~600 miles one way, I'll get a ride back). Maybe some other trips too if I can get it planned. ^^ I just want a bike that would be adequate for that type of thing.

I will wait it out though, I didn't know those bikes were expensive for what they are. I'll try to find a different one, and I'll check the bike project out.

Thanks everyone :]!

strawbee, are yard sales common where you live? That's a good place to find deals.
If you have time there's nothing wrong with going to check out those bikes witihout buying them, you're shopping.

Wherever you get a bike you should be able to take it for a ride around the block. If the person selling the bike has air in the tires or can pump them up RIGHT THERE it's a good sign. A good thing about the mixte/ladies frames is that you can fit a taller bike with the seat all the way down which you can't do with a diamond frame.

One problem with older bikes like the ones shown is that the derailleur/brake cables aren't lined with a plastic liner and water can flow into the wire housing and corrode the two together, wire and housing. Most of those older bikes didn't have stainless wire. Very few folks greased those parts enough to prevent them from getting stuck together if the bike got left outside. If the bike was garaged over the years it may not have had the brake and derailleur cables replaced. If the bike was used at all in the rain the eventually those parts will have been replaced,,which is better than original.


So when you check out a used bike you can do a quick check by squeezing each brake lever and seeing the calipers squeeze to the rim and release evenly. Don't shift the gears unless you're riding. If it has a kickstand you can tilt the rear wheel off the ground, spin the wheel and see how out of round it is. Old bikes usually have cadmium plated spokes,,which is better than cheap chromed steel but still corrodable. Cad plated look frosty gray and cromed is shiny but with rust poking through. If the rear wheel wobbles side to side enough to hit the brake pads and you can't stop the bike using that brake because the lever bottoms out (hit's the bars) the rear will have to be trued,,,those old rusty or corroded spokes might not be truable. This is where one used bike can cost a lot more if you have to replace the wheel because the wobble can't be taken out.


This is a basic assesment how good of a bike you are looking at, the derailleur (gear changer) levers and brake levers should work, the brakes and derailleur work. Spin the tires without hitting the brake pads and releasing evenly so they don't rub while riding.

If the person selling the bike can raise or lower the saddle it's a good sign. There's about a 1/2" range a person might want their seat height adjusted from optimum, if you found an old bike where the seat post is corroded into the frame you don't want that unless someone can loosen it up. A lot of folks ride with their seats too high or low,,this is something you'll play with and figure out long before you're heading out on a trip. If you can't adjust the seat height it's like settling for a pair of pants that are too tight or too long,,there's no reason to live with that.

The reason I suggested the bike coop above is that you'll get feedback from people who are used to dealing with junk bikes and there's probably a geeky gear head kid who will get excited with your adventure and steer you to some deals and a parts bin. Dealing with old used bikes intended for regular riding you'll have to get familiar with basic repairs or spend a retail bikes price in labor costs.

Bike shops can't deal with the low end stuff ,,unless you live in a town of 2000 and there's only one bike shop. I guess what I'm describing is a matchmaker,,someone who's around bikes all the time and has their eyes open for what you're looking for. Since you aren't shopping retail you can't expect a shop to do that.

strawbee, the differences between cheap bikes like the schwinn varsity and the Panasonic touring bike linked above are:

1) Panasonic probably weighs 7-8 pounds less.
2) Panasonic has more braze-ons for attaching racks and water bottle holders.
3) Panasonic has better components and probably shifts better and handles better.

No doubt it is hard for somebody new to biking to look at used bikes and recognize if it is a decent bike or a fair price. There's a valuation sub-forum in the Classic and Vintage forum on this web site. People are always asking about this or that bike. If you ask there, I'm sure people will be happy to answer your inquiries. Your challenge will be that there just aren't that many bikes in your size.

And one more thing you should know is the length of the top tube will be more important than the length of the seat tube. A lot of vintage bike manufacturers lengthened the top tubes by several inches more than is appropriate on small sized bikes to avoid having the rider's feet hitting the front wheel. My daughter is also about 5'0" and we looked at one bike with a 48cm seat tube and 56 cm top tube. She could barely reach the brakes.

But $125 bucks won't buy a $1000 bike.

But $300 might (there was a very nice Cannondale Touring on ebay last week for $250 but I don't know what it ended up selling at).

A couple of comments.

She's short enough that it's going to be hard for her to find a used diamond frame that fits.

A mixte frame is a much better design but these would be adequate for starting out.

She needs to be a bit more clear on the kind and distance and amount of riding she is planning on doing.

The gearing on those bikes might be on the high side. They might not be so great if she's riding in an area with lots of hills.

Those prices seem a bit high for those bikes.

She might be better finding a bike for less or spending a little bit more for a better bike.


I need an 18" (46cm) frame, but no used places around here are selling 18" frame bikes. I've resorted to the internet. That link that I have above is a 19" frame, which shouldn't be a big deal right? It's the smallest I've found.
Keep in mind that the fitting programs are (likely) talking about a straight top frame not a women's frame.

Regarding fit, you need to be concerned generally with three things: 1) the standover height, 2) the seat height, and 3) the distance from the seat to the handle bars. Keep in mind that the seat height is the easiest thing to adjust.

With a horizontal top tube (like in a standard "diamond" frame), a big concern is stand-over height. The women's frames you are looking at eliminate any stand-over height issues!

For the women's frame style, you just need to make sure the horizontal distance from the seat to the handle bars is OK and that the seat can be adjusted to the height that is appropriate for you.

Thank you everyone! Really useful info in there. ^^

I'm gonna keep posting links to bikes that are for sale, could you guys keep telling me if it's a good bike/deal?

http://chambana.craigslist.org/bik/1117751890.html

Edit: Never mind guess not, I looked up the bike and it's a mountain bike apparently. o_O

hmm, that's more like it.

I would probably take that bike over the first two.

A lot of the $300 "vintage" bicycles you see will never actually sell for the price they are asking.

Don't forget to haggle the price down. That's the whole point of Craigslist. If something has been up for a week or more, an easy way to do this is to show up with cash on hand to look at the bike and make a lowball offer. Point out any flaws not mentioned up front (scratches, incorrect information, misaligned shifters, rust, poor brake action, crappy components) and use them to help you bargain down the price. Any time you make a new offer on the price, bring up an accompanying point to back it up. Check if the same bicycle has been posted before and didn't sell. If there are older ads for the same bike, compare the original asking price to the new asking price and then subtract some more.

Thank you everyone! Really useful info in there. ^^

I'm gonna keep posting links to bikes that are for sale, could you guys keep telling me if it's a good bike/deal?

http://chambana.craigslist.org/bik/1117751890.html

Edit: Never mind guess not, I looked up the bike and it's a mountain bike apparently. o_O

I like that bike, from what I can see in the picture. You've brought up a whole 'nother topic with that bike - which is how to convert an old steel mountain bike into a touring bike.

If that bike has eyelets in the rear dropouts (the area right over the axles) and the front fork, you can easily mount a rack for carrying touring stuff. I can't tell if the tires are smooth or knobbies, but you can put on smooth tires and ride on the roads just fine. The ad says "completely refurbished".....sometimes sellers on CL are real flakes, but if this is legit (and you're lucky) then the seller has already upgraded the worn-out stuff on the bike (tires, tubes, cables, brake pads, etc.).

You can then either keep the handlebars it has or get some different handlebars suited to your preferred riding position and there you go - instant touring bike.

If you search around here on BF there are a couple of threads about converting mountain bikes into touring bikes. It's done frequently.

Edit: Never mind guess not, I looked up the bike and it's a mountain bike apparently. o_O

While I was reading through this thread, "mountain bike" was what kept comming to mind. That`s probably the easiest way to find a good, small bike. I frequently see listings for mtbs down to 15" and sometimes down even smaller with 26" wheels. If you go to 24" wheels (probably a limited selection of tires, but it would work), you get into the bigger "kiddie bikes" and some are of fairly good quality.

Also, I want to second somebody`s mention that you seem hung up on the seat tube measurement. The seat tubes, in relation to the general "size" of the whole bike vary a huge amount from one type of bike to another and even across the years in the same styles of bikes. For example, a 25 year "sport" road bike is likely to have a considerably longer seat tubt than a modern roadbike of the same size because the older one will probably have a level top tube. And a mountain bike will usually have a MUCH shorter seat tube since they require a lot more stand over clearance than most kinds of "road" bikes. For that reason, an 18" mountain bike is probably going to be way too big for a rider around 60" tall- if you go with a mountain bike, you should be looking for 15in or less IMO.

Oh, back to why mountain bikes- aside from being available for smaller riders, the use smaller wheels, so you won`t have as much trouble with toe overlap. There were some non mtbs designed with smaller that 27 wheels, but not a whole lot of them. With the smaller sizes, it looks to me like you can expect to have to search more than for a "medium" bike, but the prices are generally lower if you do find yourself a winner.

Well it seems like the last one I posted is getting good vibes. I'll check it out tomorrow or so!

Also, I have one more for you guys to evaluate:
"Schwinn 50th anniversary edition. 4130 cromoly material. new seat. more like world traveler.
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/minli2/bikestuff/schwinn50b.JPG "

He's asking 125 for it. Not sure of the size actually, he never mentioned. ^^

Well it seems like the last one I posted is getting good vibes. I'll check it out tomorrow or so!

Also, I have one more for you guys to evaluate:
"Schwinn 50th anniversary edition. 4130 cromoly material. new seat. more like world traveler.
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/minli2/bikestuff/schwinn50b.JPG "

He's asking 125 for it. Not sure of the size actually, he never mentioned. ^^

That one looks nice. I bet it sells quicker on account of the nice photo. You can tell that the owner cleaned and shined it up to sell. If the seller is the original owner, than that says good things about how it's been treated. The lack of scratches suggests that it hasn't been abused or used as a beater bike ever. The tires look like fairly new Continental Ultra Sports. They aren't the greatest for touring, but since you are light weight they will probably serve you well. Better than the old beige sided tires this bike might have come with originally. It has quick release skewers on the front at least, I am not sure when those came out, but it means that the wheels aren't ancient. The downsides are the lack of mounts for water bottles and racks. Personally, I would buy this one if it fits and swap out that grip foam for proper handlebar tape.

Thanks! I thought that one looked good too. =] What's 4130 cromoly though? Is that good/bad/heavy?

Thanks! I thought that one looked good too. =] What's 4130 cromoly though? Is that good/bad/heavy?

4130 refers to the SAE grade of steel that the frame is made from. Steel is heavier, but usually stronger. Almost all older bicycles are steel.

One thing you can easily check on any used bicycle is the chain stretch. Too much chain stretch means worn out teeth replacing lots of drive train components. Here is a quick link on how to measure it with a ruler.

http://www.kronowit.com/bicycling/chainstretch.html

Usually 1/16" of stretch over 12" is a benchmark for replacing a chain. 1/8" is where it starts wearing away at the drive train and you should start to consider replacing components. If the chain stretches too much, you will start skipping over teeth and your worn out cogs and chain rings won't be compatible with a new chain.

Cool, thanks!

I'm really excited about this. I told the guy I'll call him to see when I can go see the bike tomorrow. I hope it turns out to be as good as expected!

you might also want to post on craigslist yourself..... try posting an add(WTB)for a small touring bike or road bike with rack mounts. See what is offered and post it here. We can maybe then help with a yeh or neh. I've had good luck doing this in the past. Include your budget as well so your not getting replys for things way out of your budget.

Let them know the size your looking for and see what happens. Sure can't hurt. Good luck in your search.

Your local Craigslist looks very familiar in terms of pricing... Madison and Portland have similar prices. High. Really high. Chicago looks to have substantially lower prices for better quality bikes, so if you can get up there to look, it might work out better for you.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/1118107004.html - this style of frame is a little stronger

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/1115355244.html - Terry bikes tend to be built for smaller women, and are pretty high end. this is a fairly good price even tho it is much more than you want to spend.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/1118692191.html - this is a fairer price for the sort of bikes you're seeing locally

I'd also check out your local bike shops and bike co-op, since one of 'em should sell used bikes. http://www.thebikeproject.org/ is your local co-op. Getting help in person will really make life easier for you.

"Schwinn 50th anniversary edition. 4130 cromoly material. new seat. more like world traveler.
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/minli2/bikestuff/schwinn50b.JPG "


I can`t say how "good" it is, but it sure is pretty! I never heard of cromo tubing in a step through frame before- what`ll they think of next!?!

Dan the Man- good idea about checking the chain on a prospective buy. I`m adding that one to my S.O.P.

Thanks! I thought that one looked good too. =] What's 4130 cromoly though? Is that good/bad/heavy?

it's a generic designation for a steel alloy. It's good. Whether it's light or heavy depends on how thick it is. I had an italian steel bike made out of carbon steel,,it was cheap, light,,and slightly flexible. For production bikes the cheapest construction are carbon steel so they use lots of it,,like the old Schwinn varsity with narrow and thick tubes. That Royce Union is probably carbon steel. There have been a lot o brand names for different steel alloys so it can get confusing. There are more kinds than Chrome/Molybdenum.

Well it seems like the last one I posted is getting good vibes. I'll check it out tomorrow or so!

Also, I have one more for you guys to evaluate:
"Schwinn 50th anniversary edition. 4130 cromoly material. new seat. more like world traveler.
https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/minli2/bikestuff/schwinn50b.JPG "

He's asking 125 for it. Not sure of the size actually, he never mentioned. ^^

this is better compared to the RoyceUnion and Schwinn Varsity you posted, I'm guessing this one has aluminum wheels. Big weight difference between this and a Varsity.

It sounds like you're prefering to shop and pick through used listings so that it's a one time purchase. Another place to search is Freecycle.org , you'd be surprised to find bikes like the Royce Union being given away.

kaykdiver - I actually did that. That's how I got the last picture of the pretty bike I showed you guys. ^_^

Torrilin - wow that looks pretty nice for the prices. But I think the like $40 of gas it'd take me to drive to and back from Chicago and the 3+ hours of time would just really not be worth it. I do wish I lived in a bigger city though. And cool, you're from Madison. I went to undergrad there and I still visit sometimes =]

Thanks everyone.

Edit: Oh cool, I'll check out freecycle.org Lee ^_^

seriously, if you're near an urban area and keep track of it freecycle will drop some good stuff if you respond immediately. When I downsized I gave away a storage unit sized amount of stuff. Basically it's a yard sale where there's no sale.

wow that looks pretty nice for the prices. But I think the like $40 of gas it'd take me to drive to and back from Chicago and the 3+ hours of time would just really not be worth it.

Depends how you value your time. If you can bag one of the higher end Japanese mixte frames for the same as a Schwinn Varsity would go locally, it was absolutely worth the 3 hours and $40 in gas. It's a lighter frame, aluminum rims vs steel (so better braking... screw weight, it's the ability to *stop* that I care about), and a design that's new enough to be upgradeable and worth upgrading. And it'd be a good enough bike that it's worth keeping when you're done with school.

One of the things that may not be obvious to you is that when you buy a bike, the wheels are about half the cost. If they're unsuitable for what you plan to do, solving the problem is expensive. And on a used bike, it's an even bigger deal... some of the Chicago used bikes are going for less than a replacement set of wheels would cost new.

That's part of why it's worth visiting your local co-op. You can really learn a lot by test riding different bikes, and doing normal bikey things with them. Even if it turns out they have nothing suitable for you... you'll still learn something. Test rides are free, and they're some of the best education you can get on what works for you. You're really lucky to have a place like that, since it means you've got workshop space available for any repairs your bike might need.

Thank you =] Yes, I might join the bike co-op or go to their next meeting just to see more of what they do, in case I need accessories or upgrades or whatnot. Chicago is 3 hours one way though, so 6 hours total and I'm a really bad driver (comes with being an asian female, for some reason... :p), haha. I think after I graduate if I'm still really into biking, I can just splurge on a good tour bike. I don't really plan on staying in the area so a bike would be a lot of hassle to move.

Anyway, I went to check out that bike I posted and.... I liked it! It fit well enough I think, except that when I'm on the seat my feet don't touch the ground (even when the seat is at the lowest), so I can pedal it fine but when I try to stop I kinda fall over, haha. Is that... really bad? It seems kinda dangerous to me, so I'll try hard not to fall over :p Otherwise I think it's a good fit.

The guy was so nice though, and he works with bikes. He said if I ever needed repairs or anything, he'd do it for free. =) He said that the tires and the seat are new. I got it for $110! So now I'm the proud owner of this baby:

https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/minli2/bikestuff/schwinn50a.JPG

https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/minli2/bikestuff/schwinn50b.JPG

https://netfiles.uiuc.edu/minli2/bikestuff/schwinn50c.JPG


This bike IS a lot lighter than my other one. The guy looked at my other one too and he said they sold it at Meyer's, which is uhhh a local grocery store chain :p (lol not even at department store level I guess) He said I could probably only sell it for $40 at most, even though it's in good condition. Sad, but oh well.

One thing I noticed is that this road bike rides a LOT differently than my other one. I feel so much more wobbly and like I'll fall on the road bike. It has a lot to do with how the handles are. I'm not even sure where to hold the handlebar, tbh xD It's so narrow and I'm used to a much wider grip. It'll take some getting used to. =] Does anyone have any balancing tips? :p

Sounds like you got a nice bike cheaper than advertised. Even if you don't take it touring, it will probably make a good towner. Have you decided whether you are going to load it up with panniers or are you still aiming for a 10 lb tour?

You wouldn't want your saddle low enough that your feet can touch the ground while seated, but you shouldn't be falling over when you stop. Ideally when the pedals are in the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, your lower foot should be straight with the heel resting on the pedal. You don't want to tilt your hips to reach the bottom of the pedal stroke. This should give you enough distance that when you stop, you can lean the bike over slightly and rest your foot on the ground.

Next step is to get a few other necessities. This is the bare minimum:

a frame pump (your wheels take Schraeder valves same as a car, so your pump needs to be compatible)
a water bottle (you have one cage already, so you might as well use it)
a patch kit (should cost about $2)
tire levers (little plastic things for removing tires)
a multi-tool (It is nice to have the basic hex key sizes, screw drivers, spoke wrenches, and a chain tool)
If that rear wheel doesn't use quick release skewers, you will need the proper size wrench to remove that wheel (probably 15 mm, or an adjustable crescent wrench)
a bottle of lubricant (not WD-40) to lubricate the chain if the old lubricant gets washed off or the chain starts to squeak


When you have a patch kit, learn how to patch a flat tire, and actually try doing it so you don't get stuck out in the middle of nowhere in the rain trying to hitch a ride.

Thank you =]Anyway, I went to check out that bike I posted and.... I liked it! It fit well enough I think, except that when I'm on the seat my feet don't touch the ground (even when the seat is at the lowest), so I can pedal it fine but when I try to stop I kinda fall over, haha. Is that... really bad? It seems kinda dangerous to me, so I'll try hard not to fall over :p Otherwise I think it's a good fit.

The guy was so nice though, and he works with bikes. He said if I ever needed repairs or anything, he'd do it for free. =) He said that the tires and the seat are new. I got it for $110! So now I'm the proud owner of this baby:
Great that you added the extra pictures. The frame looks pretty nice. I think you done good! Keep in mind that, if you buy something that you can use that isn't junk, $110 is not much money. Even if you buy another bicycle in a few months (any you might not need to do that), what you will have learned will be worth $110!!


when I'm on the seat my feet don't touch the ground (even when the seat is at the lowest), so I can pedal it fine but when I try to stop I kinda fall over, haha. Is that... really bad? It seems kinda dangerous to me, so I'll try hard not to fall over :p Otherwise I think it's a good fit.
If you can touch the ground with your feet while sitting, the seats to low. When starting/stopping, you stand on one pedal with your butt off of the seat and use the other foot to brace against the ground.


http://sheldonbrown.com/starting.html



One thing I noticed is that this road bike rides a LOT differently than my other one. I feel so much more wobbly and like I'll fall on the road bike. It has a lot to do with how the handles are.
The bike will feel more stable if your hands are on the bar at the widest and most forward place. I often ride with my hands around the "trunks" of the brakes (the silver part of the brakes that are attached to the handle bar).


I'm not even sure where to hold the handlebar,
Anywhere where it's black and on the brake "trunks". The benefit of this style of handle bar (called a "dropped" bar) is that it lets you vary your hand position.


Does anyone have any balancing tips? :p
Practice and keep moving!!

Yay ^_^

Yep, I have much to learn.

I guess 10 lbs is unrealistic, but I still plan on going light, no cooking gears or anything really beyond necessities. Would panniers be the best option? What are my other options? A backpack would probably get too cumbersome, right?

Very Nice Bike: You did Well:
To increase your balance stand up and coast some when you feel comfortable to do it.
That is what worked for me.

Yay ^_^

Yep, I have much to learn.

I guess 10 lbs is unrealistic, but I still plan on going light, no cooking gears or anything really beyond necessities. Would panniers be the best option? What are my other options? A backpack would probably get too cumbersome, right?

A knapsack is going to be nasty unless you keep it really light. Get some miles in first (some day trips) before you worry about touring!! (Don't do a tour before you get your first flat!) If you can, hook up with a local bicycle club.

Question:

What's a clipless pedal? Is it THAT much better than a normal pedal?

If I use just a normal pedal, do I still need bike shoes or will any sports shoes do?

Cool, congratulations- it looks like you got a winner. I kept thinking of comments I wanted to say as I was readiing through the recent posts, but it looks like most everything I had in mind has already been said. Just a few that haven`t come up yet:
Besides panniers and backpack, the other option is a trailer. All those options have their own pros and cons and any of them would work for you and somebody will say you`re doing it wrong no matter what you do.
And no, in my opinion, clipless pedals aren`t THAT much better than "normal" pedals for most situations. In fact, I just changed out the pedals from clipless to normal on my "new" touring bike in preparation for our first tour together (we leave Saturday morning, yay). When I get back, the clipless go back on, but I don`t want to deal with the shoes while I`m on the road. Ideally, good biking shoes should have a nice stiff sole to support your foot, soft rubber to grip the pedal, and not a lot of waffle-kinda tread that can get caught on the edges of the pedal. In practice, if you can get two out of those three wishes you`re doing good.

What's a clipless pedal? Is it THAT much better than a normal pedal?

If I use just a normal pedal, do I still need bike shoes or will any sports shoes do?

Start off using normal shoes (sneakers are fine, skate shoes even better because of the flat stiff sole). Maybe get some cheap toe clips and straps (keep the straps loose, though) to help position your shoes and to help you develop your spinning technique. If you can find some cheap 2nd hand metal toe clips, they are MUCH better than plastic ones!


I guess 10 lbs is unrealistic, but I still plan on going light, no cooking gears or anything really beyond necessities. Would panniers be the best option? What are my other options? A backpack would probably get too cumbersome, right?
Probably the best thing will be to get a rear rack, someting like a Topeak or Tioga aluminium rack is fine. Or an Axiom, they look good. I think the US has Nashbar and Performance which people say are fine, I have never seen them.

You can then either:
(1) Get some cheap panniers
(2) Make some panniers from plastic buckets or army surplus knapsacks or similar
(3) Put a basket or milk crate on top (nasty because the weight will be very high, making you unstable; very cheap though)
(4) Strap stuff on, in stuff sacs or in a backpack on the top. Again not ideal but works for some.

Also you can get a handlebar bag or basket if you need more room.

You might also be able to put another bottle cage under your seat, if you want. You can use hose clamps to clamp a metal bottle cage on. Put a bit of electrical tape on the bike to protect the paint job where the hose clamps and bottle cage touch the frame.

edit: didnt see the updated replies....

Nice bike, go ride as much as you can, youll pick the rest up as you o along.

:)

floor pump with gauge

floor pump with gauge

Topeak Road Morph with gauge is more versatile.

Clipless pedals, ironically, are pedals that have clips in them for your feet to snap into so that you can pull up on the pedal as well as push down. You need special shoes with special metal cleats mounted under the toes. I think they are called clipless because the old style of clip pedals are the ones with cages and straps that basically tied your shoes to the pedal. So the new style that didn't need those kind of clips were called clipless.

Njkayaker mentioned that if you can touch the ground your to low...... yeppers.

Keep in mind that proper seat adjustment has little to do with being able to touch the ground from the saddle. I don't have a bike that I can do this(flat footed anyways). Do a search for bicycle fitting and use it as a guide to get started. There are many sources for fitting on the web. Getting your fit correct will go a long way towards your enjoyment of your purchase.

Another point about seat height- that`s part of the bike`s "fit". Bike shops will usually help you out along those lines when you buy a bike from them. Since you already have the bike, you may be able to pay a shop to do a basic fit on the bike you got elsewhere. If you`re uncomfortable asking them, check with a local riding club or go on one of their rides and you should have no trouble getting somebody to check you out. A lot of bike comfort depends on little adjustments. As long as the bike is more or less your size, it can be optomised by moving the saddle up and down, ahead and back and tilting one way or the other and your stem can be raised or lowered (good thing about older bikes) or, if need be, replaced with another that`s longer/shorter or even higher or lower. Getting a fit, either professionally, or by a knowledgeable bike enthusiast, will make sure you get the most comfort possible out of your new baby.

Thanks guys. I think the bike fits me fine, I'm more used to riding it now. ^_^ I'm buying accessories now! Want to help me pick some? :3

Right now looking at Lights.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_172619_-1_200310_200277_200398
or
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_157303_-1_200310_200277_200398
?

Those may or may not be a good choice. Never used them. I'm a big fan of Planet bike stuff. This set have a great taillight and decent enough headlamp. Not as cheap though. Planet bike does have a great warranty policy. If you ever have a problem they will take care of you. This is in my experience the best rear light for the money you can get. This is just one retailer that carries it. They are very good but not always the best price.http://www.biketiresdirect.com/ppbpiv/planet_bike_blazesuperflash_light_combination/pp.htm

They will price match though if you ask.