BMX - Sprocket size differences?

My Haro F2 comes with a 44 teeth sprocket but from the bike check thread, it seems that most of you have sprocket with less than 30 teeth. How does this affect handling in general? For example, would more teeth means it's more suited for trails rather than park?

more teeth just means more weight and a slightly higher top out. smaller sprockets actually have a higher rollout, and theres less weight. plus it looks a little cleaner

^^ not sure what that means but basically, smaller = lighter, stronger, compact and out of the way. the bike feels exactly the same depending on the gear ratio you run.

Thanks fuzzy. So it's just better in every way? Hmmm, maybe I'll look at doing a swap then heh.

rider: I don't understand what you mean by top out and roll out.

EDIT: And is the rear driver (small cog) permanently attacked to the wheel?

Yes, it's pretty much better in every way. The only thing that's bad about it is that as you go smaller in the front, the smaller the back gets and the bearings don't tend to last as long. You'll need to get a smaller freewheel if that's what you have, and the smallest gear you can run right now on a F/F hub is 33/12.

Thanks, I just counted and my sprocket is a 44t (didn't count the back). What's a F/F hub?

F/F is a flip-flop freewheel hub. It as threads on both side of the hub. If you don't have one of these, the smallest you could go is probably a 15. Or you could buy a new F/F for like $30.

What is the ideal ratio between sprocket and driver again?

The rollout do you mean?

The popular gears are;
44/16 41or42/15 39/14
36/13 33/12 30/11
28/10 25/9 23/8

Does rollout = gear ratio? Also, can the driver be separated from the wheel+hub?

Yes, if you want to go smaller then 33/ 12 you need a cassette hub.

I have an old Haro F2 which I know on the heavy side to start with. Would the weight of it make much of a difference if I'm trying to learn to bunnyhop? Would a somewhat lighter bike make any noticeable difference?

Its not going to make a huge difference. Just practice technique and lift some weights/eat some wheaties...

Yeah, it's all technique. Once you get solid hops down on a heavy bike, upgrading to a lighter ride will make things effortless.

How much does your bike weigh out of curiosity? Is it a street/park bike?

My bike right now is about 23.5 lbs and thats with a decently heavy frame. But in all honesty the weight doesn't matter to me, I've had 40lb bikes and rode them just fine.

My race bike weighs about 20 pounds and my new street bike weighs like 30.

mine's about 27

I would like to make mine lighter, but I'm broke right now. I'll have to wait until summer so I can hopefully get a job, and if not, I'll be waiting until my birthday in November and then Christmas.

once i finally get a job im gonna get that freecoaster that i've been talking about for like a year haha...and then some new bars

I need new bars as well. My Shadows are bent.

Shadow sucks

I think when I get new bars I'm going to get the Shadow Vultus or Stolen Cell. I don't like the backsweep on Slams and now just about every company makes 8" rise bars with the same amount. I found the WTP Lock Stock bars too. They don't have 12* of backsweep like Slams either. I kind of like the Animal Sway bars too.

the sways look pretty cool

The rise on them isn't exactly 8", but it's close enough that I don't think I'd even notice. I think the gold would look sick on my bike too.

7.9 is close enough to count

Exactly.

If I buy a 36t (originally 44t) sprocket for the front, can I replace my driver without having to buy a new hub and relace my rims?

If you have a 44t chainring, you probably have a 16t freewheel on the back, not a driver. In which case, the smallest freewheel you're likely to be able to get to fit your current hub would be a 15t, which would be too large to use with a 36t sprocket (you'll be spinning your legs like crazy and not getting anywhere).

For a 36t chainring, you'll want a 13t cog or driver on the back, which will necessitate a hub upgrade. Freewheels don't generally get this small, particularly freewheels that will fit where a 16t freewheel formerly attached.

Note that upgrading a hub requires either a whole new wheel, or unlacing and rebuilding your current one.

to get down to that size you need a new hub. and you might as well just get a cassette and go smaller than 36-13.

If he has a F/F hub, he could run a 33/12.

Thanks. Because of this, I was looking at other bikes that might be available on craigslist. How is a 04 Fit S2 bike for $150?

the S2? i remember that being a fairly decent bike...

So it's a good deal I take it?

might as well go for it

I got the bike it has a 25t and a 10t driver. How much would a difference would that make from the 25/9 ratio that minichamp recommended on the first page?

not a huuuuuuuge difference, but im sure you'll still notice it

You'll most likely be spinning like crazy, but you might get used to it. If not, get a 28t sprocket.

You'll most likely be spinning like crazy, but you might get used to it. If not, get a 28t sprocket.

Would it be easier/cheaper to get a 10t driver or is that somehow connected to the hub?

It's a 1-piece driver, so you would have to get a whole new driver. Just get a new 28t sprocket for like $40 and you'll be good.

So the Hazard Lite Cassette is directly connected to my 10t driver? That means that to change it to a 9t, I would need a whole new hub (a re-lace wheels)? wah?!

No, the driver is just held in place with a single cone nut. take that nut off and the driver will just pull right out, and you could swap it for a 9 tooth.

i think you just read mini's post a little wrong...but like fuzzy said, just pull it off and swap it out. just make sure that it has the same number of pawls so that it engages better.

and as a personal opinion, i'd go with a new sprocket because a driver will be more expensive than a sprocket

Driver is only like 40 bucks. 3 pawls is the best engagement.

So pretty much, a driver and sprocket cost the same. I would just go with the new driver to tell you the truth.

sorry, but i am going to post some links to another forum...

don't worry, this confuses a LOT of people.

when you run a tiny sprocket, you're supposed to use a proportionately tiny driver as well. if you have a 13t freewheel, you should have a 36t sprocket to keep a "normal" ratio. if you want to go smaller, you will probably have to get a different kind of hub. check out the articles/threads below.

converting to micro-gear ratio (http://www.bmx-forum.com/showthread.php?t=150372)

guide: gear ratios (http://www.bmx-forum.com/showthread.php?t=48475)

guide: hubs and how they work (http://www.bmx-forum.com/showthread.php?t=74764)

Thanks for the link!

mines stock and 25

Its also made of waterpipe.

you coulda done a tooooooon better