Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - 400lbs rider looking for a road bike

I am 400lbs rider. Currently i ride a giant yukon mtb. I started with limestone trails now i have switched to paved trails. I put on GEAX street runner tires but found i am still lacking a top gear. I believe i have a 42 or 44 tooth gear. I am looking to get a road bike and would like some information. I am not sure if my big thighs and belly will prevent me from riding a road bike. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Are there road bikes with a more upright riding style, i know this seems counter productive but considering my body mechanics it would help. Or should i just go with a hybrid bike like the giant FCR or Trek FX type bikes.

how about some higher gearing and use what you have?

The answers you seek can be found here.

http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=248

Lot's of friendly folks who ride all kinds of bikes.

how about some higher gearing and use what you have?

yes i would be interested in higher gearing with the bike i have. can i just change out the large sprocket or do i have to get a whole new BB and crank set?

Whatever you do..makes sure you get some wheels with 32+ spoke count front and rear. At 260 when I started riding my wheels would go out of true. The most important part of your bike is going to be your wheels.

You can change out any of the rings. You just need to get them to fit your existing crankset. No need to change the BB.

Your rear cassette can be changes out as well to give you different gearing.

I would look into a touring bike. Higher spoke count wheel as mentioned. They are meant to be weighted down with gear. The gearing will be between mtn and road. Frames are steel. Adjustable stems so you can take advantage of hand positions a drop bar offers.

surly long haul trucker, 36 spoke wheels, hand built by a good mechanic.

Take your bike into a LBS and have them take a look at your crankset and rear cassette. Let them know that you would like higher gearing. Should not cost much and you'll be set. You could get a new bike but I really don't see any reason unless you just want something new.

surly long haul trucker, 36 spoke wheels, hand built by a good mechanic.

A very very good choice.

FWIW, if you do have a 42 tooth big ring, maybe you should work on spinning as opposed to mashing a bigger gear. I spin my 42 tooth small ring with a 12 tooth in the back out to 30 mph or so. Congratulations on taking a healthy step in your life, the clydesdale forum is chock full of good information.

Before you spend the money on higher gearing, maybe you need to pedal at a higher cadence. Unless you are pedaling faster than 90 rpm, your existing stuff is fine. The higher cadence uses your cardiovascular system more and reduces leg fatigue. Keep your physican in the loop on your cycling, as we don't want to read your obit, just your posts.

take a read through this site, this guy was around 500 lbs when he started riding. I'm sure he'd answer any questions you have...

http://istanbultea.typepad.com/largefellaonabike/

I forgot to mention, that's awesome what you're doing! Most would just stay on the couch all day...

Good on you!
Chris (not a skinny euro guy!)

Your Yukon is likely fine for what you need right now. But there are two things I'd do: 1. Get some relatively skinny slick tires if you haven't already. 2. Lock out your suspension fork if possible. If it has no option for that, swap it out with a rigid fork. Surly's Instigator fork would probably work (check with your shop, though).

If you really want to change the gearing, swapping out a new cassette would probably be easier than swapping out some new chainrings. Chainstay clearance can be a problem on mountain bikes and large chainrings. That depends on how much clearance you have between your large chainring and your chainstay.

Yes, you can get road bikes set up with the bars at, or higher than, your saddle. You will likely be looking at a touring bike or something like the Salsa Casseroll.

I personally wouldn't go the hybrid route. Other than low cost, I don't see any advantage to hybrids to make up for their weight and generally low-end components.

Good luck and keep at it.

Whatever you do..makes sure you get some wheels with 32+ spoke count front and rear. At 260 when I started riding my wheels would go out of true. The most important part of your bike is going to be your wheels.

++

I ran 36 spoke wheels at 250... I still run them during the winter and for rough road races.

I am 400lbs rider. Currently i ride a giant yukon mtb. I started with limestone trails now i have switched to paved trails. I put on GEAX street runner tires but found i am still lacking a top gear. I believe i have a 42 or 44 tooth gear. I am looking to get a road bike and would like some information. I am not sure if my big thighs and belly will prevent me from riding a road bike. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Are there road bikes with a more upright riding style, i know this seems counter productive but considering my body mechanics it would help. Or should i just go with a hybrid bike like the giant FCR or Trek FX type bikes.

Welcome to BF and keep us posted on your progress. The bike is a great way to lose weight, many here have shed significant pounds riding their bicycles (including me).

surly long haul trucker, 36 spoke wheels, hand built by a good mechanic.

Don't those have 26" wheels?

Don't those have 26" wheels?

The 54cm and smaller do. The larger ones are 700c.

FWIW, if you do have a 42 tooth big ring, maybe you should work on spinning as opposed to mashing a bigger gear. I spin my 42 tooth small ring with a 12 tooth in the back out to 30 mph or so. Congratulations on taking a healthy step in your life, the clydesdale forum is chock full of good information.

Yeah. I have a friend who's in a similar situation, and he doesn't spin because he says it works up his heart rate too much.

You'd want to have a cardio work out, but take small steps. Try and spin at a faster rate, get a bike computer with cadence if necessary.

I would also recommend a touring bike such as a Surly Long Haul Trucker. They are built for extra weight and put you in a more upright position than a typical road bike.

The feedback in here has been great. I will keep you guys updated as i make a decision on the bike and on my fitness progress.

I have seen some posted a higher cadence rather than a taller gear. I am more built for slower cadence at more intensity. I am not a speedster but i have lots of power, leg pressing over 900lbs i feel that higher gear would be a better fit without reving up my heart rate. But my next trip out i will try to increase cadence and see what happens.

Moving this to Clydes with a link back to Road.

Your Yukon is likely fine for what you need right now. But there are two things I'd do: 1. Get some relatively skinny slick tires if you haven't already. 2. Lock out your suspension fork if possible. If it has no option for that, swap it out with a rigid fork. Surly's Instigator fork would probably work (check with your shop, though).

If you really want to change the gearing, swapping out a new cassette would probably be easier than swapping out some new chainrings. Chainstay clearance can be a problem on mountain bikes and large chainrings. That depends on how much clearance you have between your large chainring and your chainstay.

Yes, you can get road bikes set up with the bars at, or higher than, your saddle. You will likely be looking at a touring bike or something like the Salsa Casseroll.

I personally wouldn't go the hybrid route. Other than low cost, I don't see any advantage to hybrids to make up for their weight and generally low-end components.

Good luck and keep at it.

Thank you kila good information. Gonna go to LBS and see what they say about chainrings. If possible i would like to do it myself, we'll see.

Most frames will be ok for you, it's all about the wheels.

Most frames will be ok for you, it's all about the wheels.

I don't know about this. Most lightweight road frames are not made for a rider who is over 250 lbs. Obviously the wheels are very important too, but a frame made with thicker-walled tubing should also be a priority.

I am not quite 400, but was 385 when I started my weight loss journey.

I ride a Specialized Allez (09). I am careful with the stick tires and rims over rough terrain, and make sure to keep the tires properly inflated, but have had absolutely no isses whatsoever with broken spokes or wheels going out of true (I take it to my LBS about once a month and get them to check it...they do general maintenance for as long as I own the bike for free)

My bike's frame is Al, with a carbon front fork. The thing I really like about the Allez is that it has a more upright cockpit position, but is still a road bike. As I lose more weight, this will become an issue, but for now it is a great help to me.

Good luck, hard work, and it IS possible to lose the the weight!

I see the thread was moved over here. Welcome to the thundering herd Chucky!

Thanks txvintage

the golden rule of getting a new bike, try some out before you buy. See what you like. maybe rent a tourer so you can give it a go without buying. also try some aluminium road frames and see if you like them. they way they feel under your weight. myself - i'd go with a steel mtb, i find it more comfortable to cycle than a road bike. feel sort of perched up on a road bike at the moment. i am 260lbs. hope you make the right choice in the end;)

I'm 315 and I have a Specialized Sequoia Elite on layaway. It will be my first road bike. Like mentioned earlier (Allez) the Sequoia line has a more upright positioning. I have back issues so that was a selling point. The bike is very sturdily built except maybe the wheels, they did change the wheels on the 09 line though. I plan on having a strong wheel set built. Anyways, it might be worth considering if/when you get a road bike.

Congrats on the commitment to improved health. Happy riding.

This is what I am having to do as well. Forget the big gears. For us bigger guys we need to pay attention to a higher cadence and forget about worrying about topped out speed right now. Believe me once you get going up a hill you will appriciate that faster cadence in the gears. I'm around 390 or so right now and coming down fast. I still use my stationary as well but forget about most of the programs it has you do so I just pedal fast to get my heart rate up. (off topic but making a point).

. I am more built for slower cadence at more intensity. I am not a speedster but i have lots of power, leg pressing over 900lbs i feel that higher gear would be a better fit without reving up my heart rate. But my next trip out i will try to increase cadence and see what happens.

Pressing hard is harder on the knees. My guess is that the heart rate will not be much different. If you belong to a club check out an elipitcal or similar. Compare the heart rate at lower resistance and highe cadence (rpm) vs heart rate atg higher resistance and lower cadence. My experience is that if you are working as hard......you will get the similar results and often go to a higher heart rate at high resistance/lower cadence

It's not going to matter how much you can leg press. Let me say that right now. I as well have a lot of Leg power. I am former competitive power lifter. I have learned when it comes to cycling the rules change for us having to loose weight.

Right now I would look at swapping out your chainring. Once the weight drops off and you are concerned about top end speed (racing, long rides, etc.) then look into touring or road bikes.

Thanks guys for the info. I went for a 9 mile ride yesterday and tried the higher cadence. I don't have a computer so i just tried to pedal a little faster. It went pretty well my sister actually couldnt keep up with me and she ways 160 lbs , and my heart rate didn't get too crazy. I still feel i was lacking a gear on the flat and downhill parts. but the uphill was much easier if i kept the cadence up and just dropped the gearing a little. So far i like the increase cadence and will continue but i still think i need a bigger chainring. I like the idea of maybe renting a road bike or maybe a hybrid with biger chainring and see if it'a a change i would want to make. And as for the powerlifters comment the point i was trying to make is i have done powerlifting as well and my body seems more fast twitch than slow twitch so i feel i can do more intensit in a higher gear for a shorter time than a lower gear over a longer time. I figure 10 or 20 miles high intensity instead of 50 or 60 miles lower intensity. This is just my theory i won't know until i do it. But so far the 10 mile rides are good and soon i will be doubling that we'll see if the intensity is too much for the knee when double the distance. Thanks again guys and I'll keep you updated.

Keep at it and before you know it you'll find out that cadence is king. Well done!

New dilema. Went to tune up my front derallieur after my ride today. I remembered hearing two weird sounds on my ride today so i decided to inspect the bike further. I started with front then rear wheel and found i broke two spokes out back. I am now on the look for ideas about the wheel. Just re-spoke the broken wheel and have it trued or should i look into a different wheel alltogether. I am really bumbed cause i don't really have the money for new wheels so i am going to have to save for the repair or replace. Any advice on the right fix here. I would rather save up some cash and fix it or replace it right so i don't run into this problem again. Thanks guys in advance as i know someone will have an answer here.

New dilema. Went to tune up my front derallieur after my ride today. I remembered hearing two weird sounds on my ride today so i decided to inspect the bike further. I started with front then rear wheel and found i broke two spokes out back. I am now on the look for ideas about the wheel. Just re-spoke the broken wheel and have it trued or should i look into a different wheel alltogether. I am really bumbed cause i don't really have the money for new wheels so i am going to have to save for the repair or replace. Any advice on the right fix here. I would rather save up some cash and fix it or replace it right so i don't run into this problem again. Thanks guys in advance as i know someone will have an answer here.

Replacing the broken spokes and having the wheel retensioned (assuming it was a machine build) should be sufficient.

New dilema. Went to tune up my front derallieur after my ride today. I remembered hearing two weird sounds on my ride today so i decided to inspect the bike further. I started with front then rear wheel and found i broke two spokes out back. I am now on the look for ideas about the wheel. Just re-spoke the broken wheel and have it trued or should i look into a different wheel alltogether. I am really bumbed cause i don't really have the money for new wheels so i am going to have to save for the repair or replace. Any advice on the right fix here. I would rather save up some cash and fix it or replace it right so i don't run into this problem again. Thanks guys in advance as i know someone will have an answer here.

The general rule is, if you break A spoke, then replace the spoke and true and tension the wheel, if you break a second spoke, repeat. If you break a third spoke, replace all the spokes and have the wheel properly tensioned and trued. Replacing a couple of spokes and truing and tensioning a wheel shouldn't be an expensive repair. The reason why you replace all the spokes after a 3rd break is that the spokes have probably been over stressed and weakened, and they will pop one by one until you do replace them all.

Here is the process for spoke replacement, so you know what the shop is doing...

Remove the tire, tube and rim strip, if the broken spoke is on the drive side, then remove the freewheel/cassette. Remove the old spoke and nipple, the nipple is the piece at the threaded end of the spoke, where it goes into the rim. A screw is found on the inside of the rim to hold the nipple in place. Some people reuse the old nipple, others replace it with a new brass nipple, Put the spoke through the hub, grease the spoke thread and connect it and the nipple together at the hub. Tighten the spoke with a spoke wrench until it sounds like the other spokes if you pluck it. Check the entire wheel for true, then give each spoke a quarter turn to bring up the tension, go around the wheel twice. Reinstall the rim strip making sure all the screws are covered, then reinstall the tire and tube.

To replace all spokes there are two methods, you can simply remove the cassette/freewheel, then cut them all, and rebuild the wheel with new ones, or you can remove all the tension, mark one spoke, and then replace each one as you go around the wheel with the marked spoke being last, then true and tension the wheel. Pro's tend to use the first method, inexperienced wheel builders use the second.

Took wheel to another LBS and he replaced and trued it. It has a little hop in it but not bad. They suggested running a wider tire, i was running 26 x 1.25, i ordered some 26 x 1.5 high pressure kenda kwest. Does everyone agree that i should ride a wider tire. I rode my 1.9 hemisphere the other day and man they seemed a lot slower. I hope the 1.5 kwest are faster or i hope it was just in my head.

I put Kenda Kwest 1.5s (100psi) on my Hardrock a couple of weeks back. I love them. Of course I was coming down from 1.95s so YMMV.

took bike for a ride and busted another spoke. Need help. I need a new rear wheel any advice under 200 and possibly closer to 150 thanks guys.

took bike for a ride and busted another spoke. Need help. I need a new rear wheel any advice under 200 and possibly closer to 150 thanks guys.

You can get a pretty decent hand-built rear wheel for that price. For instance at Universal Cycles, http://www.universalcycles.com/wheelkit.php, I just used the online wheel builder to put together the following wheel for $156:

Shimano HB-M530 Deore Rear Hub - 135mm x 36 Hole (Black)
Mavic XM719 Rim - 26 x 36 Hole Black
DT Swiss Competition Butted Spokes - 2.0-1.8mm Silver
Brass Nipples - Silver 12mm


Their wheels tend to be built fairly well, and I am sure this wheel would be much better than anything that came with your bike. Of course, you may want to consider a higher spoke count wheel, but that probably would cost you as they are more of a specialty item these days.