Classic and Vintage Bicycles: What's it Worth? Appraisals and Inquiries - Mt. Fuji Ltd.

I saw a vintage Mt. Fuji Ltd. mountain bike with roller cam brakes, Xt rear deralleur. Can anyone tell me how to date it? I estimate it to be a late 1980's or early 1990's bike. It has a lugged steel frame DB Cromo. All information is appreciated, including a original selling price, and current price range.

Thanks in advance,
Uni

Fuji's top of the line mountain bike, I think. as for dating, maybe ut can be sort of dated with those roller cam brakes (and I wouldn't know what years those were being spec'd), but if you want to pinpoint the date of that bike, you'd need the date codes on the components.

This may help you out a little.

http://classicfuji.com/0_Models_and_Years.htm

Thank you Blue Order, and Beech333.
Beech333, that catalog link is right on time. It's a 1985. The bike appears to be in good condition with the usual scratches and scrapes form use. I'm thinking the value is around $100.00
I also saw one on CL for $125.00:

http://dallas.en.craigslist.org/mdf/bik/1134900623.html

The 1985 model that I saw was priced at $1000.00
Of course I had to decline. I think the seller has the value and pricing confused with the New Mt. Fuji Ltd. made from carbon fiber.

What does the community think about the $1000.00 pricing?

Thanks,
Uni

What does the community think about the $1000.00 pricing?Crack-pipe pricing.

It's an epidemic. Everybody who's got an unused bike in the garage suddenly thinks they're worth their weight in unobtanium. I'd say $100-$200, depending on condition. Of course, I don't know that much about the bikes, so if there is some reason they should be more than $100 - $200, hopefully somebody can fill us in.

Crack-pipe pricing.

It's an epidemic. Everybody who's got an unused bike in the garage suddenly thinks they're worth their weight in unobtanium. I'd say $100-$200, depending on condition. Of course, I don't know that much about the bikes, so if there is some reason they should be more than $100 - $200, hopefully somebody can fill us in.

Hello everyone. I went back to take another look at that Mt. Fuji Ltd. Well, to my surprise, the seller dropped the price, and I took it home for $80. The seller must have had any epiphany, or read this forum. Thanks Jesus.

I noticed some things that I did not notice yesterday. The front fork is rounded at the top like the 1986 model, but has the low boy rack mounts like the 1985. The wheels are nutted, and the rear cam brake is mounted on the frame below the chain stays, like the 1986. After a quick check it seems to have some specs of both the 1985 and 1986.

All in all, I'm very glad to have it. It rides nicely. The rear brakes need to be adjusted. Does anyone know of a link that explains how to adjust these cam/roller brakes? I do not like the idea of the brakes beneath the chain stays, being closer to sources of contamination. The pictures in the following links do not show the many scratches or the faded paint.


All comments are appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Uni

Hello everyone. I went back to take another look at that Mt. Fuji Ltd. Well, to my surprise, the seller dropped the price, and I took it home for $80. The seller must have had any epiphany, or read this forum. Thanks Jesus.Congratulations!




I noticed some things that I did not notice yesterday. The front fork is rounded at the top like the 1986 model, but has the low boy rack mounts like the 1985. The wheels are nutted, and the rear cam brake is mounted on the frame below the chain stays, like the 1986. After a quick check it seems to have some specs of both the 1985 and 1986.

All in all, I'm very glad to have it. It rides nicely. The rear brakes need to be adjusted. Does anyone know of a link that explains how to adjust these cam/roller brakes? I do not like the idea of the brakes beneath the chain stays, being closer to sources of contamination. The pictures in the following links do not show the many scratches or the faded paint.


All comments are appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
UniThey're U-Brakes (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_u-v.html#ubrake). There's info in that link on adjusting them.

I noticed some things that I did not notice yesterday. The front fork is rounded at the top like the 1986 model, but has the low boy rack mounts like the 1985. The wheels are nutted, and the rear cam brake is mounted on the frame below the chain stays, like the 1986. After a quick check it seems to have some specs of both the 1985 and 1986.That's a nice feature, by the way. You could do some touring with this bike, given those rack mounts and the long wheelbase. Nice score for $80!

That's a nice feature, by the way. You could do some touring with this bike, given those rack mounts and the long wheelbase. Nice score for $80!


Thanks Blue Order, those low boy rack mounts are a welcome extra. Touring, well maybe one day...
Thanks for the quick reply and information on the brakes. One of the pads started rubbing against the rim after my test ride. So now, I can check it out quickly.

$80 in today's used bike world is a good price for that bike. Way to go.

$80 in today's used bike world is a good price for that bike. Way to go.

Hey Roccobike, how are you doing?
I almost didn't buy it because the wheels are not quick release. But I said, what the heck, I can carry a wrench. I probably will not switch to QR rims, even though it has crossed my mind.

After pedaling forward, if I take my feet off of the pedals, the cranks rotate forward. Does this mean that there is a problem with the free wheel? What can be done to correct this?

Thanks again,
Uni

After pedaling forward, if I take my feet off of the pedals, the cranks rotate forward. Does this mean that there is a problem with the free wheel? What can be done to correct this?

Thanks again,
Uni

Most likely explanation for the unassisted crank rotation is that the pie plate/dork disc is contacting the largest rear cog. That, or the freewheel needs lubrication. I'd pull the freewheel off and remove the disc; while the freewheel's off, I'd lube it by dripping some heavy oil in from the back and spinning the mechanism to allow the oil to seep in.

Even Suntour's highest-end MTB component group came with solid axles in 1985; hollow QR axles were thought to be unable to hold up to off-road abuse at that time. Great hubs, though, with cartridge bearing assemblies.

If you want to make it easy to pull the wheels off, the axles on those Suntour hubs should be interchangeable with QR axles, unlike most solid axles. The solid axles in the hubs that came on my 1985 Cannondale took QR axles, anyway.

I agree with the others that that's a terrific score. My Cannondale came with the Suntour Sport group, one tier down from the group on your Fuji, and yet it has held up amazingly well all these years. I've gone through I don't know how many chains and freewheels, and I've worn out two sets of chainrings (!), but the bearings are as smooth as they were the first month I had the bike.

What you have are not U-brakes but are indeed roller cam brakes. Very dependable and work good. Check out this link for adjustment tips: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=317315&highlight=roller+cam+brake+adjustment .

I don't know if you'll find any around now, but there used to be a triangular shaped canvas cover with a small metal grommet in the top point and a strip of velcro that wrapped around from the back of the cover under the roller plate and fastened on the front of the cover. It really does keep the crud and mud out of the brake rollers. I have them on my Nishiki Cascade and Ross Mt. Hood. Mine are made by Overland Equipment.

If you know someone that sews, these wouldn't be difficult to whip up.

Walt

Most likely explanation for the unassisted crank rotation is that the pie plate/dork disc is contacting the largest rear cog. That, or the freewheel needs lubrication. I'd pull the freewheel off and remove the disc; while the freewheel's off, I'd lube it by dripping some heavy oil in from the back and spinning the mechanism to allow the oil to seep in.

Even Suntour's highest-end MTB component group came with solid axles in 1985; hollow QR axles were thought to be unable to hold up to off-road abuse at that time. Great hubs, though, with cartridge bearing assemblies.

If you want to make it easy to pull the wheels off, the axles on those Suntour hubs should be interchangeable with QR axles, unlike most solid axles. The solid axles in the hubs that came on my 1985 Cannondale took QR axles, anyway.

I agree with the others that that's a terrific score. My Cannondale came with the Suntour Sport group, one tier down from the group on your Fuji, and yet it has held up amazingly well all these years. I've gone through I don't know how many chains and freewheels, and I've worn out two sets of chainrings (!), but the bearings are as smooth as they were the first month I had the bike.

Thanks Trakhak, the free wheel needed lubrication. The LBS lubed it with something named Boeing T9. Now it works perfectly. I may switch the axles down the road. Does my rear wheel have cartridge bearings? I'll have to check the next time the rear wheel is removed. Do you know the name of the Suntour Group that is supposed to be on this bike? The LBS said it has a really good free wheel. I think he said it is a Suntour Professional Tandem, which is stamped on the free wheel. This bike is like a 1985 & 1986 hybrid. It must have been built as the components were transitioning to the 1986 specifications.
Thanks for the information and help, I really appreciate it.

Uni

What you have are not U-brakes but are indeed roller cam brakes. Very dependable and work good. Check out this link for adjustment tips: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=317315&highlight=roller+cam+brake+adjustment .

I don't know if you'll find any around now, but there used to be a triangular shaped canvas cover with a small metal grommet in the top point and a strip of velcro that wrapped around from the back of the cover under the roller plate and fastened on the front of the cover. It really does keep the crud and mud out of the brake rollers. I have them on my Nishiki Cascade and Ross Mt. Hood. Mine are made by Overland Equipment.

If you know someone that sews, these wouldn't be difficult to whip up.

Walt

Hi Walt, thanks. Crud may be a big deal on my bike since the rear brake is mounted beneath the chain stays. When you have the time. please post a picture of these covers.
The brakes do stop quickly. I can make the tires squeal when I stop, like in my childhood days, many many moons ago.

Thanks again,
Uni

What you have are not U-brakes but are indeed roller cam brakes. Very dependable and work good. Check out this link for adjustment tips: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=317315&highlight=roller+cam+brake+adjustment .


Walt

Thanks Walt, for the link to the roller brake adjustment information.