Bicycle Mechanics - Why do high-end bikes come with presta valves?

At least mountain bikes, that I know of?

Anyways, is there a specific reason for this?

Thanks!

At least mountain bikes, that I know of?

Anyways, is there a specific reason for this?

Thanks!

First thing that came to mind was that they are a superior valve design. The pressure of the air inside the tire keeps the valve closed.

Good question, I was wondering that myself!

Besides the fact that presta valves are a better design (actually designed for bicycles!) and easier to use than schrader valves, I find it truly amazing that most non-cyclists or those new to cycling are completely clueless about how presta valves work and don't seem to want to learn!

I don't know how many times I have been in a debate at work about presta vs schrader valves and many people don't even want to know about how much better presta valves are. They are not willing to listen to explanations about how they work: "What! That's stupid, waaa, waaa, waaa!!!!"

I do some bike tune-ups for a couple of my friends at work. One guy can spend 20 grand on a speedboat but will not shell out $30-50 on a decent tire pump, so I had to drill out the valve holes on perfectly good Sun rims on the wheels I built for his Cannondale mtn bike! What the f%#k!!! The tubes themselves are only about a dollar more! Scheesh!!!

Sorry for the rant, but lower-end bike owners just seem to want to go to the gas station because either they're too cheap to buy a good tire pump or are too stupid to operate one!

The only advantage that I can see is that they require drilling a smaller hole in the rim.

The other advantages that people typically cite all sound bogus to me. The little poppet on a Schraeder valve is also normally pushed closed by internal air pressure. My air conditioner uses a Schraeder valve and it has 200psi line pressure and is not supposed to leak at all. The little spring on a Schraeder valve requires far less force to open than the 100psi or more that we typically use on road tires so the ease of inflation argument doesn't work for me either and, frankly, I find Schraeder inflaters much easier to use.

I don't like presta valves. Too fragile when I am in a rush (yes thats my fault but I hate being gentle when pumping my tubes with a hand pump)

I always buy schraeder. For me its preference.

I like the presta valves. My shraeder valves always give me a hard time when I try to pump up my tires:(

Schrader valved rims are usually of a lesser quality and are mega-mass produced for budget bicycles around the world. Schrader valved tube are available practically in the middle of nowhere. Presta valved tubes may not be readily available in some parts of the world.

Another question - how do you check the tire pressure for a Presta valved tube?

It's easy with the Schrader valve.. I use the same tool I use for the car.

Most decent bike pumps have a built-in air pressure guage (and handle both presta and Schraeder, to boot).

Another question - how do you check the tire pressure for a Presta valved tube?

It's easy with the Schrader valve.. I use the same tool I use for the car.

You can buy pressure guages that accomodate both valve types. I have one of these (http://www.topeak.com/2004/products/pump_023.html).

http://www.topeak.com/2004/images/images_products/pumps/pump_023.jpg

My floor pump also accomodates both types of valves and has a built-in pressure guage.

You can buy pressure guages that accomodate both valve types. I have one of these (http://www.topeak.com/2004/products/pump_023.html).

http://www.topeak.com/2004/images/images_products/pumps/pump_023.jpg

My floor pump also accomodates both types of valves and has a built-in pressure guage.

There's also a small converter screw on cap that converts the valve to shrader. They run about $1.50 for a pair at most bike shops. That way if you need air on the road, you can use any pump. You can leave the converter cap on all the time or just put it on when needed.

There's also a small converter screw on cap that converts the valve to shrader. They run about $1.50 for a pair at most bike shops. That way if you need air on the road, you can use any pump. You can leave the converter cap on all the time or just put it on when needed.

Yep. I keep one with me in my seatpack.

I agree with Retro, the only advantage is the smaller hole in the rim. The last time is broke a Presta valve with my frame pump I drilled out my rims for Schrader. I've been very happy since. It's just too easy when you're on the side of the road to break a Presta.

I am actually having a problem with my rear tire. After filling it up with air (its a presta valve) about a day later or sometimes sooner I lose a considerable amount of tire presure. I don't think I ran anything over and the tire is only about 2 months old. Could it be a broke presta valve??

I don't mind buying another tube, but if its just the valve is there anyway to fix it?






I agree with Retro, the only advantage is the smaller hole in the rim. The last time is broke a Presta valve with my frame pump I drilled out my rims for Schrader. I've been very happy since. It's just too easy when you're on the side of the road to break a Presta.

Why do high-end bikes come with presta valves?

Maybe it's weight? The Presta being a little smaller would use less material less rotating mass? Just a stab in the dark?

Like someone else already said, it's probably hole size for the narrower rims....which would make it a microgram lighter too ;)

I am actually having a problem with my rear tire. After filling it up with air (its a presta valve) about a day later or sometimes sooner I lose a considerable amount of tire presure. I don't think I ran anything over and the tire is only about 2 months old. Could it be a broke presta valve??

I don't mind buying another tube, but if its just the valve is there anyway to fix it?

it could just be that the tube you bought is more porous than the last tube you had. tubes will generally lose pressure over time. the easy solution to this is to check your tire pressure before every ride and fill them up as needed. i usually just pump them up before i head out the door anyway. broken presta valves are usually VERY noticable. as in, the head part is snapped off and it won't hold any air at all.

the thing i like about presta valves is the little threaded ring dohickey that tightens agains the rim and hold the valve stem in place when the tube is deflated. schraeders have their advantages (tougher, simpler yadda yadda), but that little wingjob is really handy. another great thing about prestas, and i'm pretty sure this ONLY applies to tubular tires, is that you can change the length of the stem if you want to.

I am actually having a problem with my rear tire. After filling it up with air (its a presta valve) about a day later or sometimes sooner I lose a considerable amount of tire presure. I don't think I ran anything over and the tire is only about 2 months old. Could it be a broke presta valve??

I don't mind buying another tube, but if its just the valve is there anyway to fix it?

1. put some water in the bath tub

2. remove wheel

3. inflate tire to max PSI

4. place said wheel in tub, with valve submereged, look for small bubbles.

Schrader is popular still with the DH/Freeride set because they are more durable.

Presta -road, xc, cx.

Nobody mentioned the air leakage which occurs when you remove the pump-head from a Schrader valve.

Presta is a one way valve and the tire won’t loose any pressure as you take the pump-head off. A Schrader valve is held open by a pin in the pump-head and invariably as you take the pump-head off, some air comes out of the tire. In higher pressure, low volume tires, this is more significant.

It’s no coincidence that high pressure - low volume tires are where Presta valves are used mos

Presta is a one way valve and the tire won’t loose any pressure as you take the pump-head off. A Schrader valve is held open by a pin in the pump-head and invariably as you take the pump-head off, some air comes out of the tire. In higher pressure, low volume tires, this is more significant. This is also why prestas are easier to pump to high pressure with a hand pump. The valve is only open WHILE the pump is putting air into the tube. RG's schrader-valve air conditioner can be pressurized to 200 psi because it's being pressurized by a compressor, not a frame pump.

No body mentioned the air leakage which occurs when you remove the pump-head from a Schrader valve.

Presta is a one way valve and the tire won’t loose any pressure as you take the pump-head off. A Schrader valve is held open by a pin in the pump-head and invariably as you take the pump-head off, some air comes out of the tire. In higher pressure, low volume tires, this is more significant.

It’s no coincidence that high pressure - low volume tires are where Presta valves are used mos

That's not entirely true, Presta looses some air when you screw back down the the knob, about the same as with schrader.

Another question - how do you check the tire pressure for a Presta valved tube?

It's easy with the Schrader valve.. I use the same tool I use for the car.

the ones for the car don't go up to a high enough psi.

That's not entirely true, Presta looses some air when you screw back down the the knob, about the same as with schrader.
Your experience appears to be different from mine. Perhaps I am misunderstanding you.

Are you saying that you can hear air escaping from the tire while you screw down the knob? Do you press down on the knob while you screw it down? There's no need to do that.

When you take the pump-head off, there is a hissing noise, but that is air escaping from the hose not the tire. Since Presta only opens if there is more pressure on the outside or if you press down on the knob, it just won't work that way.

The initial couple of turns of the knob on a presta releases some air.

The initial couple of turns of the knob on a presta releases some air.

Odd. I've never had that happen. I just twirl the knob with a light touch instead of gripping down on it and twisting. There's less of a chance of accideently pushing down on the valve that way.

Depends on the person, I was never presta complient and I only used one finger to close them and always lose air.

The initial couple of turns of the knob on a presta releases some air. But that's before you pump it; so no big whoop. Closing it afterward doesn't release any.

There's also a small converter screw on cap that converts the valve to shrader. They run about $1.50 for a pair at most bike shops. That way if you need air on the road, you can use any pump. You can leave the converter cap on all the time or just put it on when needed.

I have always looked screw on converters at those at the LBS and thought that was a good idea. Now I'll definitely pick a couple up for the seatbag. Cool.

A veteran mechanic at the LBS told me that Prestas can withstand high temperatures from rim heat-up due to heavy breaking on descents in road racing. The high temps would cause the Schraeder stems to fatigue pre-maturely and then fail.

Not that the posts in this thread are fresh, I just have to say. I'm suprised that the reasons that seem obvious to me are not stated here.
1. Presta valves are skinnier than schrader valves. It would appear that prestas were designed originally for road cycles and narrow rims.
2. A smaller hole in the rim makes it easier to maintain rim strength.
3. Presta valves and associated rims would be high end speciality at first and thus associated with quality. this makes for an obvious carryover to high end mountain biking. (This is probally a lesser reason)
2. That little knurled part on the presta locks the valve shut. this probaly seems insignificant, Most taditional applications of schrader valves (cars, airconditioners in cars and homes, aircraft wheels, beach cruisers, motorcycles) are used on mostly smooth surfaces. mountain bikes are made to be bashed around a bit more. the rim is expected to be regularly jarred. if this jarring occurs while the stem is pointed up inertia in the valve will cause it to open briefly, thus letting a little air escape. This may only happen a few time per mile of rough terrain, but in a long ride it could add up to a few psi difference.
I may be talking out of my ass, but these seem like the reasons for presta.

Another question - how do you check the tire pressure for a Presta valved tube?

It's easy with the Schrader valve.. I use the same tool I use for the car.

1. My floor pump has a pressure gauge
2. I have a portable universal pressure gauge that I keep in my saddle bag (it reads both types and it digital. How about that!)
3. Most car pressure gauges will not read 110 psi (Average auto pressure is only 32 PSI, so auto gauges are not rated for higher pressure.

I agree with Retro, the only advantage is the smaller hole in the rim. The last time is broke a Presta valve with my frame pump I drilled out my rims for Schrader. I've been very happy since. It's just too easy when you're on the side of the road to break a Presta.

Yep, that's why they are used on road bikes, smaller hole in the narrow rim. The only other advantage (slight) is the weight.

Al

I like presta valves, but im waay to cheap to buy the pump. So i got those little co2 innovations adapters, these are high quality. I leave them on the tube all the time and just use a regular automotive pressure checker

I prefer Schrader over Presta all the way but higher end bikes all seem to have Presta. To me it is a marketing plot based on the perception that Prestas are a superior system. I for one have yet to find any advantage from having Prestas over Schrader. The size of the whole on the rim is the only advantage that I can undertand and even that one is questionable to me, as rims can be equally well designed around a slightly larger whole. My new bike has Presta so I am stuck with them but if I could change them without drilling the rims I would do it.

Presta sucks when you have to use a mini pump on them. I bent the valve pin on my first try. Now i use a topeak road morph so its not a problem anymore but still.

Presta sucks when you have to use a mini pump on them. I bent the valve pin on my first try. Now i use a topeak road morph so its not a problem anymore but still.

When I started using presta tubes, I had purchased a Topeak minipump mainly because of the SmartHead. I then started reading about people bending the plungers on their presta valves and wondered what the hell was going on. It wasn't until I tried a few other brands of pumps that I began to understand. For some reason, the Topeak pump heads support presta valves much better than other pumps. I've never bent a plunger with a Topeak minipump but I have with other minipumps.

I don't like presta valves. Too fragile when I am in a rush (yes thats my fault but I hate being gentle when pumping my tubes with a hand pump)

I always buy schraeder. For me its preference.


I'm down w/ schraeder as well. however my mtn. bike has both....

on the bmx it was nice to use them because all gas stations have pumps you can put air in your tire with. now that they all charge up to 75 cents(!!!), I bought a floor pump...:D

I have a small travel pump for my mtn bike though...

The initial couple of turns of the knob on a presta releases some air.

Uh, no. I never have any trouble with air escaping when I snug up the valve nut on a presta valve.

This isnt worth fighting over. Just use what your rims are made for and go ride. :rolleyes:

Uh, no. I never have any trouble with air escaping when I snug up the valve nut on a presta valve. It must be me then.

if airs escaping with your presta valves at an abnormal rate then you have low quality tubes. Simply said

They make an adapter for the presta that lets you use a regular air hose at a station or a regular tire tube. Costs a dollar at my LBS. Slides over the valve and easy to use from what I've seen.

Get a Presta valve adapter at you LBS for a buck.

My FCR4 Giant came with 700-28 tires and shrader valve tubes. Seems the extra thick rims make up for rim strenghth, the reason narrow tires use the smaller presta. As a aircraft structural tech, makes sense to me!

Actually, I believe it to be a strenghth factor. A smaller width rim would be weaker with a larger hole in it. Less metal area to spread out the stress from the hole. My Giant FCR4 has 700-28 tires and shrader valves, but the rimm is thicker so it keeps the metal needed for strength.Valve stem sticks out half as much of a regular rim. Anyway, back to what I was trying to say, the more metal you take off the weeker itt gets. As a aircraft structure/airframe tech, this makes sense to me! Hope that helps!

I don't like presta valves. Too fragile when I am in a rush (yes thats my fault but I hate being gentle when pumping my tubes with a hand pump)

I always buy schraeder. For me its preference.

I've always had more problems with cutting the valve on a schraeder valve while pumping them with a hand pump then with presta valves. On rare occasions, I have torn out the valve of a presta tube but if you use the nut provided, this is a rarity.

For road bikes it seems that checking the pressure changes it, since volumes are so low. For that reason I really needed to get a floor pump with a gauge on it, even though I have a compressor and a frame pump already as well as those little adapter thingies. For mountain/kid bikes etc. Shrader is handier, since I could always just use the compressor and the automotive pressure gauges.

The initial couple of turns of the knob on a presta releases some air.
Never done this to me...ever. Unless I press down while twisting. That's at 100PSI.

Over here, almost all bikes, except those used by the minority of bike enthusiasts, have the intermediate kind, the Dunlop valve. I myself used nothing but that until my most recent bike.
I thought the Presta valves looked thin and fragile, but when I first used one, I fell in love with it. Solid, precise and easy to handle.
And, since you can use any kind of pump with the help of ultra-cheap adapters, why bother with anything else?

I have a Topeak Road Morph pump, by the way.